I have a quaint 1940s cottage style sun porch with 11 identical, 15-light,
single pane windows that I unlock and replace with framed screens in the warmer
months. I have to store the windows/screens when they are not used, of course,
but they don't take up much space and the porch looks (and feels) really nice
with the windows out of the picture. Likewise, not having screens interfere
with the view in the cooler months is great.

The problem is that all the windows are in really bad need of being reglazed
(ugh!) and repainted, but I'm wondering if I would be better off for energy
savings and workload if I just replace the windows. I want to have no glass in
the warm months and no screens in the cooler months. I recently purchased a
screen door that has exactly this capability, but I have been unable to find
windows that do this. Does anyone know if it's possible to buy a window/screen
system like this?

"schmultzburger" wrote in message
...
I have a quaint 1940s cottage style sun porch with 11 identical, 15-light,
single pane windows that I unlock and replace with framed screens in the
warmer months.

Couldn't you just use double hung replacement windows with full screens?
Most replacement windows have removable sashes and screens. You could
remove the sashes, the screens, or both without much trouble.

Gina and Les Armstrong wrote:
"schmultzburger" wrote in message
...

I have a quaint 1940s cottage style sun porch with 11 identical, 15-light,
single pane windows that I unlock and replace with framed screens in the
warmer months.


Couldn't you just use double hung replacement windows with full screens?
Most replacement windows have removable sashes and screens. You could
remove the sashes, the screens, or both without much trouble.


Yeah, we considered that, but both my wife and I think double hung windows would
look pretty awful in this situation. We have talked about casement windows as a
last resort fall back option, but we really want to keep the same look and
functionality we have now.

If the glass is the old wavey type, save it.
It's valuable to the right folks.
It's now called art glass and is expensive.
The window openings are most probably not square.
That's going to make replacement with manufactured units difficult.
TB

"schmultzburger" wrote in message
...
Gina and Les Armstrong wrote:
"schmultzburger" wrote in message
...

I have a quaint 1940s cottage style sun porch with 11 identical,
15-light,
single pane windows that I unlock and replace with framed screens in the
warmer months.


Couldn't you just use double hung replacement windows with full screens?
Most replacement windows have removable sashes and screens. You could
remove the sashes, the screens, or both without much trouble.


Yeah, we considered that, but both my wife and I think double hung windows
would
look pretty awful in this situation. We have talked about casement
windows as a
last resort fall back option, but we really want to keep the same look and
functionality we have now.


In your situation as explained, your best bet is to glaze the windows.
Since they are removable and can be laid on a saw horse or table it really
isn't all that bad of a job. In fact you might be able to take them to a
local glass place and have it done.

If you choose DIY, post again or email me. I have a detailed post that I
copied or wrote.


Colbyt

Colbyt wrote:

In your situation as explained, your best bet is to glaze the windows.
Since they are removable and can be laid on a saw horse or table it really
isn't all that bad of a job. In fact you might be able to take them to a
local glass place and have it done.

If you choose DIY, post again or email me. I have a detailed post that I
copied or wrote.


I'm sure I have instructions on glazing somewhere, but I'm always open to
additional information. :-) From what I remember, the glazing isn't so hard,
it's the old glazing removal that's a PITA, and the priming and painting around
all the trim is so tedious.

S-

"schmultzburger" wrote in message
...
Colbyt wrote:

In your situation as explained, your best bet is to glaze the windows.
Since they are removable and can be laid on a saw horse or table it
really
isn't all that bad of a job. In fact you might be able to take them to
a
local glass place and have it done.

If you choose DIY, post again or email me. I have a detailed post that
I
copied or wrote.


I'm sure I have instructions on glazing somewhere, but I'm always open to
additional information. :-) From what I remember, the glazing isn't so
hard,
it's the old glazing removal that's a PITA, and the priming and painting
around
all the trim is so tedious.

S-

If the old stuff doesn't come out pretty easy I leave it in place. I
started that practice after I bought a few pieces of glass that I broke
trying to get the old stuff out.

Here is the text from a previous post of mine:


Boiled linseed oil, fresh putty, the proper tool, the right moves, and a
little practice.

Buy your DAP brand glazing compound from a paint store or other place that
sells a lot of it. Old stuff degrades in the can and becomes difficult to
work with.

Buy a "bent" glazing ( putty) knife at the same time. They are available
in 1/2" and 3/4" widths. The proper tool and practice makes the job easy.

Paint the wood sash with boiled linseed oil and allow it to dry (at least a
couple hours) while the can of dap sets in the sun

Take a ball of putty and work it in your hands to warm it. I am right
handed. Hold the putty in your left hand and press the putty into place into
place using the knife from top to bottom or left to right. All you are doing
now in getting the putty in place on all four sides of the frame. It will be
over filled and uneven. Then you go back and finish it removing the excess
which is added back to the ball for the next window. With practice you will
learn to feed the putty from through the end of your fingers in a very
quick manner.

To finish you start at a top or left corner and press gently on the putty
knife with your left thumb as you pull the knife to the bottom or right in
one long continuous stroke. It may take more than one finish stoke until you
get the hang of it. The side edges of the knife blade should rest against
the wood and the glass as you press and pack the putty into the triangle
shape. The handle should point in the direction you are pulling towards.


Colbyt