Lookout - yesterday I bought one of those "chain saws on a stick" -
Remington for $98 at Home Depot.

I am getting older and am tired of going up on a ladder and trimming
trees.

It extends to 15 feet long. Has a trigger on the bottom end. Should be
fun. I will let you know after this morning's session how it goes.

I have a large wooded lot in Tallahassee Florida. Things seem to grow
overnight here and all year. I am not used to that after 55 years in
Pennsylvania.

Wife has already had two bouts with poison ivy. I am trying to trim
things down and make it more civilized.

I appreciate all the help from the folks on this newsgroup.

Harry

I have the exact same thing. It was very useful, but you better have
strong arms, cause it will take a toll on them trying to hold the 15'
pole with the saw at the end.
Overall though, it does help.

Harry Everhart wrote:
Lookout - yesterday I bought one of those "chain saws on a stick" -
Remington for $98 at Home Depot.

I am getting older and am tired of going up on a ladder and trimming
trees.

It extends to 15 feet long.

Are you sure "it" extends that far? You may find that "The big print
giveth and the fine print taketh away." Chances are you'll find that a
good part of that "15 feet" will be made up of your body and arms.

Has a trigger on the bottom end. Should be
fun. I will let you know after this morning's session how it goes.

I hope it goes better for you than the one I bought a couple of years
ago. I couldn't get the telescoping twist clamp to tighten down enough
to keep the joint from twisting, even when I used Channelocks on it. The
offset of the saw blade introduced a torque which twisted it.

I returned it the next day.


I have a large wooded lot in Tallahassee Florida. Things seem to grow
overnight here and all year. I am not used to that after 55 years in
Pennsylvania.

Wife has already had two bouts with poison ivy. I am trying to trim
things down and make it more civilized.

I appreciate all the help from the folks on this newsgroup.

Harry

I've gotten by without that power pole saw just fine. I make do with a
rope operated lopper (which I extended by about 5 feet with a piece of
PVC pipe, slotted at the top end and hose clamped on.) It does have a
stationary saw blade which can be wing nutted on for cutting stuff too
thick for the shear blade.

For the occasional taller limbs I use a rope saw, which can easily reach
30 feet high, though I gotta confess I'm no Joe Nameth when it comes to
flinging the weighted end of the rope through the spot I want it to
go....that part usually takes me five or six tries. G

If you're not familiar with them, here's the one I have:

http://www.right-tool.com/higlimhancha.html

I think they're the cat's ass for keeping my clumsy body and chain saw
safely off a ladder.

I just have to remember to not stand there admiring my work when the
limb starts to pivot down and fall. That's the time to yell "TIMBER!!!!
and run like hell out from under it.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"As long as there are final exams, there will be prayer in public
schools"

On 9 Apr 2005 07:29:18 -0700, "Mikepier"
wrote:

I have the exact same thing. It was very useful, but you better have
strong arms, cause it will take a toll on them trying to hold the 15'
pole with the saw at the end.
Overall though, it does help.


Up in the cold white north we really have to coax our trees to grow.
I have only a mental visualization of the tool. Operating a 15 foot
powered cutting tool at the end of a pole seems a case where the user
will have to take the usual safety precautions of wearing a hard hat
and suitable goggles. Perhaps some sort of thick long sleeved jacket.
To assist holding the tool I imagine a flagstaff harness like the one
a marcher uses in a parade.

PaPaPeng wrote:
On 9 Apr 2005 07:29:18 -0700, "Mikepier"
wrote:

I have the exact same thing. It was very useful, but you better have
strong arms, cause it will take a toll on them trying to hold the
15'
pole with the saw at the end.
Overall though, it does help.


Up in the cold white north we really have to coax our trees to grow.
I have only a mental visualization of the tool. Operating a 15 foot
powered cutting tool at the end of a pole seems a case where the user
will have to take the usual safety precautions of wearing a hard hat
and suitable goggles. Perhaps some sort of thick long sleeved jacket.
To assist holding the tool I imagine a flagstaff harness like the
one
a marcher uses in a parade.

I have one of those harnesses laying around and I just knew there was
something I could use it for so I never threw it out. I owe you a
beer.

thanks!

R

"RicodJour" wrote in message
oups.com...
PaPaPeng wrote:
On 9 Apr 2005 07:29:18 -0700, "Mikepier"
wrote:

I have the exact same thing. It was very useful, but you better have
strong arms, cause it will take a toll on them trying to hold the
15'
pole with the saw at the end.
Overall though, it does help.


Up in the cold white north we really have to coax our trees to grow.
I have only a mental visualization of the tool. Operating a 15 foot
powered cutting tool at the end of a pole seems a case where the user
will have to take the usual safety precautions of wearing a hard hat
and suitable goggles. Perhaps some sort of thick long sleeved jacket.
To assist holding the tool I imagine a flagstaff harness like the
one
a marcher uses in a parade.

I have one of those harnesses laying around and I just knew there was
something I could use it for so I never threw it out. I owe you a
beer.

thanks!

Huh. Around here, the only 'chain saw on a stick' I have ever seen is an
air-powered one the pro tree trimmers use. Keeps the weight at the end down
to a minimum. It also had the pointy things at base of saw arm to jam it in
to the branch being cut, to reduce kickback, I assume. No harness, but a big
side handle a couple of feet up the stick.

aem sends....

Harry Everhart wrote:
Lookout - yesterday I bought one of those "chain saws on a stick" -
Remington for $98 at Home Depot.

I am getting older and am tired of going up on a ladder and trimming
trees.

It extends to 15 feet long. Has a trigger on the bottom end. Should be
fun. I will let you know after this morning's session how it goes.

I have a large wooded lot in Tallahassee Florida. Things seem to grow
overnight here and all year. I am not used to that after 55 years in
Pennsylvania.

Wife has already had two bouts with poison ivy. I am trying to trim
things down and make it more civilized.

I appreciate all the help from the folks on this newsgroup.

Harry
Remember you are cutting from the bottom. If you
don't watch out and plan the cut(s) you will pinch
the saw, then what will you do to get it unstuck?

Happened yesterday to a professional in the
neighbors yard. He also had a pole saw (one of
those curved saw blades that can extends about
20-25 feet) made by Stihl which he used cut the
branch and drop the chain saw. The Stihl was one
slick saw. Most of the time he could cut a 3/4
branch with one quick slice. But a replacement
saw blade costs $200 he said. Always cut the
bottom side a little bit before you try to cut the
top. Good luck.

Remember you are cutting from the bottom. If you
don't watch out and plan the cut(s) you will pinch
the saw, then what will you do to get it unstuck?

No - I lay the saw on top of the the branch in the crotch (ouch :-)
The saw cuts well by gravity - the branch falls opening the smile :-)

I just got done with four hours of use of the chainsaw on a stick. This
one is made by Remington.

Wife loved it. She would point at the branches and I would cut. Four
hours was tiring - the cutting was easy - the carrying away of the limbs
was hard :-)

It is a nice tool for $98. It seemed very safe to use. I tried to keep
it at an angle so the stuff would fall in front of me. On larger
branches - I would saw it off in pieces from the extremities to the
crotch (of the tree).

In some cases - I went up onto the roof of our house and reached out
horiztonally.

My review - it did what I wanted - easier than a pruner with the rope -
I cut a six inch thick branch with no problems - looks like th esaw
could take bigger. I never cut from the bottom up - always putting the
saw blade on top of the branch. When extending to the full length - the
lock had a cam to hold it tight.

This one was made by Remington and purchased at Home Depot for $98. I
figure I got my money's worth out of it with one use. A local tree
surgeon wanted $500 to do what I did today in 4 days - again - the worse
part was hauling the stuff to the curb for pickup. anything you get to
the curb - our city picks up no extra charge.

Harry

I don`t think cutting from the bottom is smart nor is one cut or bark
can peel off the tree. 2 cuts from top and watch out it can and will
swing back into you fast, Helmet and faceguard time. Remington, check
the chain often if it is to loose it could bind and come off the track
in the cut and get stuck up there. Working under a falling branch is not
for an amateur.

"m Ransley" wrote in message
...
I don`t think cutting from the bottom is smart nor is one cut or bark
can peel off the tree. 2 cuts from top and watch out it can and will
swing back into you fast, Helmet and faceguard time. Remington, check
the chain often if it is to loose it could bind and come off the track
in the cut and get stuck up there. Working under a falling branch is not
for an amateur.

Your first cut should be on the underside of the limb, cutting completely
through the bark layer -- up to perhaps 1/3 of the thickness of branch, but
not enough so that branch will bend and bind the saw.. This cut can be a
few inches (or more) away from the trunk, and the purpose of this cut is to
prevent any chance of the bark layer ripping off beyond that point once you
make the next cut. Then cut from the top, with a cut that it outboard of
the first cut. When you get most of the way through the limb will break
off, but because of the bottom cut you won't strip off the bark beyond the
cut or create a wound that could start rot in the tree. Once the branch is
cut off, you can remove the stub with a single cut, starting at the top,
angled to minimize the surface area of the scar.

Without starting with a bottom cut, you risk creating an open wound on the
trunk, and almost certainly will if you're cutting trees such as Live Oak.

This procedure is from the Florida Master Gardeners program -- if you want
more info, check with your extension service or the Florida Yards and
Neighborhoods manual.

Harry Everhart wrote:
Remember you are cutting from the bottom. If you
don't watch out and plan the cut(s) you will pinch
the saw, then what will you do to get it unstuck?


No - I lay the saw on top of the the branch in the crotch (ouch :-)
The saw cuts well by gravity - the branch falls opening the smile :-)

I suppose it depends on the saw make/design. All
of the saws I have seen are just continue the same
direction as the pole. Cutting is thus more or
less vertical (you can not get the saw horizontal
above the branch). If you have a saw blade that
is perpendicular to the pole that would be great.

Harry Everhart wrote:
I just got done with four hours of use of the chainsaw on a stick. This
one is made by Remington.

Wife loved it. She would point at the branches and I would cut. Four
hours was tiring - the cutting was easy - the carrying away of the limbs
was hard :-)

It is a nice tool for $98. It seemed very safe to use. I tried to keep
it at an angle so the stuff would fall in front of me. On larger
branches - I would saw it off in pieces from the extremities to the
crotch (of the tree).

In some cases - I went up onto the roof of our house and reached out
horiztonally.

My review - it did what I wanted - easier than a pruner with the rope -
I cut a six inch thick branch with no problems - looks like th esaw
could take bigger. I never cut from the bottom up - always putting the
saw blade on top of the branch. When extending to the full length - the
lock had a cam to hold it tight.

This one was made by Remington and purchased at Home Depot for $98. I
figure I got my money's worth out of it with one use. A local tree
surgeon wanted $500 to do what I did today in 4 days - again - the worse
part was hauling the stuff to the curb for pickup. anything you get to
the curb - our city picks up no extra charge.

Harry

Sounds like you have the technique down for you
saw, if you didn't get it stuck at least once.
The reason for the under cut in addition to
helping prevent a pinched saw is keep the under
part from tearing back to the tree when the branch
flips down. I'm surprised that a 6" branch didn't
do this, but your technique of taking a bit off
at a time starting with the tip, helps control the
weight and reduce tears.

"World Traveler" wrote: This procedure is from the
Florida Master Gardeners program -- if you want
more info, check with your extension service or the Florida Yards and
Neighborhoods manual.

Thanks World -
I will try your advice next time. This time I was doing mostly small
branches around two inches. Only one cut was a six inch branch on a
Live Oak. I was lucky I guess because no bark was stripped.
Harry

Harry Everhart wrote:
"World Traveler" wrote: This procedure is from
the
Florida Master Gardeners program -- if you want
more info, check with your extension service or the Florida Yards
and
Neighborhoods manual.

Thanks World -
I will try your advice next time. This time I was doing mostly small
branches around two inches. Only one cut was a six inch branch on a
Live Oak. I was lucky I guess because no bark was stripped.
Harry

I have the Remington pole saw also. Got mine from Lowes last fall and
got a $15 rebate off the $98. I've trimmed about 50 trees with it and
it works pretty well. (I have learned to watch my head though). On the
6-8" limbs, I start far out on the limb, cutting about 4' off at a
time. I cut about 2/3rds of the way through the limb, and lift the saw
when the limb starts to hinge downward, then finish cutting all the way
through. That seems to prevent pinching the chain in the cut, and also
controls the fall.
The only problem I've had is with the pole - when storing it upright,
oil seeped out of the reservoir and loosened the black grip on the
pole. It slides a bit now, but doesn't affect operation.

Enuf

Harry Everhart wrote:
Lookout - yesterday I bought one of those "chain saws on a stick" -
Remington for $98 at Home Depot.

I am getting older and am tired of going up on a ladder and trimming
trees.

It extends to 15 feet long. Has a trigger on the bottom end. Should be
fun. I will let you know after this morning's session how it goes.

I spotted them and included such on my gift wish list. Last Christmas I
received a variation on that theme. A Craftsman Cordless Pole Saw.

Extends only 10ft though. Instead of a chain it uses a reciprocating
blade. Fortunately standard SawzAll type blades making replacement a
breeze.

Works fine but I wish I had that extra 5 feet reach.