We have a standard General Electric stove, with an oven.
It is probably about 18-20 years old.

Over the past month, the oven was taking longer and longer
to pre-heat, and now it does NOT heat up at all, when
the function switch is set to BAKE. The bottom element
does not get hot at all now.

(However, when set to BROIL, then the TOP element heats
right up to red-hot within about 1 minute.)

We did a 'concept' test on a WORKING oven, and it appears
that when function-switch is set to BAKE, only the BOTTOM element
is what is supposed to get hot. And, when you switch it to BROIL,
then only the TOP element is supposed to get hot, right?

So, we (naively) figure that the problem lies either in:
(1) The function-switch (BAKE/TIMED-BAKE/BROIL)
(2) The bottom element is bad.

But, we know next to nothing really about oven repair. So,
our questions a

(1)Statistically, which of these two is MOST LIKELY the cause:
The function-switch or the element?

(2)Is there a third possibility? (e.g. are there an 'fuse-like' things
that are designed to burn-out/switch off in the lower-element
circuit that could instead be the problem?)

TIA...

Dave

On 1-Apr-2005, "David Cook" wrote:

(2)Is there a third possibility?

When an oven doesn't work the first thing to check is
that the timers are not set (some ovens only work when
the timers are off - the thing has to be set to MANual,
unless the timer is running; read the instruction manual).

The other thing is that a fuse may have blown. Most
stoves seem to have the fuses under the top of the
control panel at the back of the oven. The lid usually
hinges up to reveal the fuses.

If those are all ok, then check for things like switches
that are kaput.

Mike

"David Cook" wrote in message
...

Over the past month, the oven was taking longer and longer
to pre-heat, and now it does NOT heat up at all, when
the function switch is set to BAKE. The bottom element
does not get hot at all now.


I'd suspect the heat element based on that description.

You are correct in that the bottom element only is used for the 'bake'
setting, and the top only is used for 'broil'.

I assume you say that because of the gradual degradation.

We HAVE taken the two screws loose at the back of the element and
pulled it a few inches and inspected the ELEMENT and the two wires
and it looks ok PHYSICALLY.

Can we use an ohm-meter to test it?

Is it possible for the element to be 'bad' even tho it looks ok physically?
(Or, should we just 'bite the bullet' and buy a new one, based on the 20
years
of age? How expensive is an element?)

Cheers...

Dave


"Olaf" wrote in message
...

"David Cook" wrote in message
...

Over the past month, the oven was taking longer and longer
to pre-heat, and now it does NOT heat up at all, when
the function switch is set to BAKE. The bottom element
does not get hot at all now.


I'd suspect the heat element based on that description.

You are correct in that the bottom element only is used for the 'bake'
setting, and the top only is used for 'broil'.

can be bad but look good

yes you can test with an ohm meter

make sure the breaker is OFF.

With both element leads removed from element, check elment reistance

Guessing here but the resistance should be failry high;.
Check the resistance foir a 100watt bulb if my conceptual thinking is
correct the element's resitance s/b about 15 to 20 times higher. Or
you could compare it to the broiler element.

Checking is easy but I just replaced an element in a 25 year old GE for
my mother. Element looked good but was bad, I never checked the
resistance.

~$25 online
http://www.repairclinic.com/0003.asp

http://www.repairclinic.com/0070.asp

their part finding hepler is pretty good

cheers
Bob

Hi,

(1)Statistically, which of these two is MOST
LIKELY the cause:
The function-switch or the element?

Element.

(2)Is there a third possibility? (e.g. are there
an 'fuse-like' things that are designed to burn-
out/switch off in the lower-element circuit that
could instead be the problem?)

Burnt wire, fuse is possible but normally would effect the broil as
well, clock set on auto instead of manual ( not all ranges ),
thermostat, selector switch, etc.

How to ohm test an element...
http://www.applianceaid.com/elecrange.html#element

How to change ( if needed ) a common bake element...
http://www.applianceaid.com/elecrange.html#change-bake

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

"BobK207" wrote:
Guessing here but the resistance should be failry high;.
Check the resistance foir a 100watt bulb if my conceptual thinking is
correct the element's resitance s/b about 15 to 20 times higher. Or
you could compare it to the broiler element.

Nitpicking, but the resistance of the oven element should be quite a bit lower
than a 100W bulb. Power is V^2/R, and you want your kitchen oven to be cooking
things a bit faster than an Easy Bake.

100 ohms, very roughly (they're usually either "reasonable" or "infinite"...not
much in between).

Hi,

Can we use an ohm-meter to test it?

Yes.

How to ohm test an element...
http://www.applianceaid.com/el=ADecrange.html#element

How expensive is an element?

Some common GE ones...
http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink...gehotovel.html

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

Good point Andy.

I messed up my V=I*R & P=I^2*R. substitution. oops!

How about 10 ohms?
cheers
Bob

"BobK207" wrote in message
ups.com...
can be bad but look good

yes you can test with an ohm meter

make sure the breaker is OFF.

With both element leads removed from element, check elment reistance

Guessing here but the resistance should be failry high;.
Check the resistance foir a 100watt bulb if my conceptual thinking is
correct the element's resitance s/b about 15 to 20 times higher. Or
you could compare it to the broiler element.


You can not measure the resistance of a light bulb directly with an
ohmmeter. When it is cold it will seem to be very low, only an ohm or two.
As it heats up (as most all conductors but carbon) the resistance will go
way up. The higher the wattage of a device, the lower the resistance will
be at the operating temperature. You usually have to calculate it by the
voltage and amps it is operating under.

Yes, I see the logic of your guess that it is the element that failed.

And, to follow up, yes it WAS the element. We purchased a
replacement element (for about $40.00) at a local repair store,
and the oven is working again just fine...the oven now pre-heats
in about 5 minutes, just like a new oven!

Thanks to both of you for the help.

Cheers...

Dave


"Olaf" wrote in message
...

"David Cook" wrote in message
...

Over the past month, the oven was taking longer and longer
to pre-heat, and now it does NOT heat up at all, when
the function switch is set to BAKE. The bottom element
does not get hot at all now.


I'd suspect the heat element based on that description.

You are correct in that the bottom element only is used for the 'bake'
setting, and the top only is used for 'broil'.

"David Cook" wrote in message
...
Yes, I see the logic of your guess that it is the element that failed.

And, to follow up, yes it WAS the element. We purchased a
replacement element (for about $40.00) at a local repair store,
and the oven is working again just fine...the oven now pre-heats
in about 5 minutes, just like a new oven!

Thanks to both of you for the help.

Cheers...

Dave

Glad to have participated in helping. Damn, I'm glad it wasn't the
thermostat... 8^D

Just to add some relevant facts:
The original (damaged) element LOOKED ok...a little bit
pitted. After we removed it, we put an ohm-meter on it,
and it measured in the 1000's of ohms.
Then we purchased the new replacement element, and out of
curiosity, we put an ohm-meter on the new one before
replacing it. The value was MUCH smaller...about 24 ohms.

So, the bottom line seems to be that you should NOT judge
by appearances. Just remove the element and use an ohm-meter,
and if the value is greater than say 50 or 100 ohms, it is
defective...replace it!

HTH...



Olaf wrote:
"David Cook" wrote in message
...
Yes, I see the logic of your guess that it is the element that
failed.

And, to follow up, yes it WAS the element. We purchased a
replacement element (for about $40.00) at a local repair store,
and the oven is working again just fine...the oven now pre-heats
in about 5 minutes, just like a new oven!

Thanks to both of you for the help.

Cheers...

Dave

Glad to have participated in helping. Damn, I'm glad it wasn't the
thermostat... 8^D

David-

Thanks for the followup posts
Bob

David Cook wrote:
We have a standard General Electric stove, with an oven.
It is probably about 18-20 years old.

Over the past month, the oven was taking longer and longer
to pre-heat, and now it does NOT heat up at all, when
the function switch is set to BAKE. The bottom element
does not get hot at all now.

(However, when set to BROIL, then the TOP element heats
right up to red-hot within about 1 minute.)

We did a 'concept' test on a WORKING oven, and it appears
that when function-switch is set to BAKE, only the BOTTOM element
is what is supposed to get hot. And, when you switch it to BROIL,
then only the TOP element is supposed to get hot, right?

So, we (naively) figure that the problem lies either in:
(1) The function-switch (BAKE/TIMED-BAKE/BROIL)
(2) The bottom element is bad.

But, we know next to nothing really about oven repair. So,
our questions a

(1)Statistically, which of these two is MOST LIKELY the cause:
The function-switch or the element?

(2)Is there a third possibility? (e.g. are there an 'fuse-like' things
that are designed to burn-out/switch off in the lower-element
circuit that could instead be the problem?)

TIA...

Dave

On Oct 22, 2:47*am, Tony Hwang wrote:
David Cook wrote:
In part .....................
We did a 'concept' test on a WORKING oven, and it appears
that when function-switch is set to BAKE, only the BOTTOM element
is what is supposed to get hot. And, when you switch it to BROIL,
then only the TOP element is supposed to get hot, right?

Not necessarily! Here in Canada I have seen ovens where both the top
and bottom elements come on when the oven is switched to bake to
provide a faster 'warm-up'. IIRC once the oven gets to a certain temp.
the upper element switched out and the oven continued to operate for
the rest of the cooking cycle using the bottom element.
It does sound that rather than discuss the problem to death here, some
simple trouble shooting with the back off should find the trouble in
say less than half an hour. There is often a circuit diagram inside
the metal back of many stoves that is help, especially by showing wire
colours and terminal numbers on, for example, the timer/thermostat
controls.
We used to run a catering company and quite frequently arriving at
some church hall etc. we would find the first task after unloading the
vehicle was to repair the cooking stove. This would often be on say a
Saturday evening (i.e. Outside the regular work-week) for, say, a
wedding reception. So we could actually cook the meal before serving
it! We got quite adept at fixing stoves or making them work by some
means. Or even taking some of the food to another location where we
knew the stove was working; we did this once during a total area power
failure; we cooked food at a location that happened to have propane
gas cooking and drove it about 1.5 miles through darkened streets to
where it was served by emergency lighting and candles!