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#1
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Cracks in ceiling..advice?
Hi,
Older house, was built in the 60s I think, and lately I'm noticing something like cracks in the ceiling in most of the rooms, but it's more of what looks like a seam about to show. In all but one room, it hasn't come through the paint yet, if that makes sense. In one room, it's an actual "crack" looks like a sidewalk crack, very thin though, and has cracked the paint. Long one. There are also some cracks near the door frames on the walls. I live in Texas and have heard people say houses settle here a lot. Pier and beam foundation, small house, just five rooms. I cannot afford to move, fixed income, and it's just me, but I can still climb a ladder if I'm careful. Will someone please tell me how to fix it? If its serious? I don't have anyone I can call as far as family, and I rely on this newsgroup a lot for information about this house and another one for my garden. Thank you all so much, lucy |
#2
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Cracks in ceiling..advice?
"lucy" wrote:
Older house, was built in the 60s I think, and lately I'm noticing something like cracks in the ceiling in most of the rooms, but it's more of what looks like a seam about to show. In all but one room, it hasn't come through the paint yet, if that makes sense. In one room, it's an actual "crack" looks like a sidewalk crack, very thin though, and has cracked the paint. Long one. There are also some cracks near the door frames on the walls. I live in Texas and have heard people say houses settle here a lot. Pier and beam foundation, small house, just five rooms. I cannot afford to move, fixed income, and it's just me, but I can still climb a ladder if I'm careful. Will someone please tell me how to fix it? You can usually tell quite easily if it is a seam crack. Those will be in the corner or run in a straight line. The easiest way to fix those is to use a paintable acrylic caulk to fill the crack, then paint over with a latex paint that matches the existing paint. If the seam tape has lifted, it needs to be removed (as much as has lifted), and replaced, mudding as required. I tend to think the fiberglass mesh tape works well for repairs as it is a bit stronger, but paper would also work. Using drywall patch for seam cracks is usually not a good idea as the crack will likely reappear after a short time. Note that if the surface paint has been on for a few years it most likely will not match fresh paint. If that's a problem, you need to paint the entire surface to a corner or other natural break in sight line. If its serious? These types of cracks are not serious as long as the gap is relatively small - say a pencil lead width or less. If the crack is larger or runs in multiple directions, you probably should have a trusted builder or inspector take a look. I don't have anyone I can call as far as family, and I rely on this newsgroup a lot for information about this house Now that's dangerous... |
#3
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Cracks in ceiling..advice?
Clark,
Thank you very much! I will get the fiberglass tape and some "mud" but I'm not sure what you mean by that. Would they know at Lowe's what I mean by that or does it have another name? You seem very knowledgeable about this, so if you wouldn't mind, will you give me some pointers on how to do this? Like how do I remove old seam tape? Just start scraping that area? Okay, then I put up the fiberglass mesh tape on the seam, then put the mud stuff on there? Do I sand it when it dries? Thank you so much, I really appreciate your help, lucille "Clark W. Griswold, Jr." 73115 dot 1041 at compuserve dot com wrote in message ... "lucy" wrote: Older house, was built in the 60s I think, and lately I'm noticing something like cracks in the ceiling in most of the rooms, but it's more of what looks like a seam about to show. In all but one room, it hasn't come through the paint yet, if that makes sense. In one room, it's an actual "crack" looks like a sidewalk crack, very thin though, and has cracked the paint. Long one. There are also some cracks near the door frames on the walls. I live in Texas and have heard people say houses settle here a lot. Pier and beam foundation, small house, just five rooms. I cannot afford to move, fixed income, and it's just me, but I can still climb a ladder if I'm careful. Will someone please tell me how to fix it? You can usually tell quite easily if it is a seam crack. Those will be in the corner or run in a straight line. The easiest way to fix those is to use a paintable acrylic caulk to fill the crack, then paint over with a latex paint that matches the existing paint. If the seam tape has lifted, it needs to be removed (as much as has lifted), and replaced, mudding as required. I tend to think the fiberglass mesh tape works well for repairs as it is a bit stronger, but paper would also work. Using drywall patch for seam cracks is usually not a good idea as the crack will likely reappear after a short time. Note that if the surface paint has been on for a few years it most likely will not match fresh paint. If that's a problem, you need to paint the entire surface to a corner or other natural break in sight line. If its serious? These types of cracks are not serious as long as the gap is relatively small - say a pencil lead width or less. If the crack is larger or runs in multiple directions, you probably should have a trusted builder or inspector take a look. I don't have anyone I can call as far as family, and I rely on this newsgroup a lot for information about this house Now that's dangerous... |
#4
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Cracks in ceiling..advice?
"lucy" wrote:
Thank you very much! I will get the fiberglass tape and some "mud" but I'm not sure what you mean by that. Would they know at Lowe's what I mean by that or does it have another name? The people at Lowes will definitely know what products you need, assuming you find the paint department. You will want drywall tape, drywall compound ("mud") and a couple of spatulas of varying widths. They also occasionally run clinics on how to make repairs. You seem very knowledgeable about this, so if you wouldn't mind, will you give me some pointers on how to do this? Like how do I remove old seam tape? Just start scraping that area? I've done it more than once, but don't claim to be an expert by any means. Can tell you what worked for me: Remove the old seam tape with a utility knife. Cut a line across the tape at either end a couple of inches into the part that hasn't lifted. Make sure you also remove any chips or other loose bits of paint, compound or tape. By the way - if the tape is lifting, you may have a water leak problem. Properly applied tape is embedded in a thin layer of drywall compound, making it extremely unlikely that it would lift unless exposed to water. You must get the leak fixed before you repair the drywall. Okay, then I put up the fiberglass mesh tape on the seam, then put the mud stuff on there? Paper tape requires that you spread a think layer of drywall compound, slightly wider than the tape for the length of the tape, then place the tape in the compound and use the spatula blade to press the tape into the compound. The fiberglass stuff is sticky on one side, so you can just place it on the seam and spread the compound on top. Do I sand it when it dries? The general technique is to wait until the compound drys, knock down any large ridges with sandpaper, then feather a layer on top that is slightly wider. Final sanding may be required if you have smooth walls. Modern builders tend to use textured walls to avoid the sanding requirement. Thank you so much, I really appreciate your help, Good luck. |
#5
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Cracks in ceiling..advice?
Clark,
Thank you SO very much. Its the ceiling not the wall, and this house was built in the 60s, so I'm hoping it's just age. Thank you so very very much lucille "Clark W. Griswold, Jr." 73115 dot 1041 at compuserve dot com wrote in message ... "lucy" wrote: Thank you very much! I will get the fiberglass tape and some "mud" but I'm not sure what you mean by that. Would they know at Lowe's what I mean by that or does it have another name? The people at Lowes will definitely know what products you need, assuming you find the paint department. You will want drywall tape, drywall compound ("mud") and a couple of spatulas of varying widths. They also occasionally run clinics on how to make repairs. You seem very knowledgeable about this, so if you wouldn't mind, will you give me some pointers on how to do this? Like how do I remove old seam tape? Just start scraping that area? I've done it more than once, but don't claim to be an expert by any means. Can tell you what worked for me: Remove the old seam tape with a utility knife. Cut a line across the tape at either end a couple of inches into the part that hasn't lifted. Make sure you also remove any chips or other loose bits of paint, compound or tape. By the way - if the tape is lifting, you may have a water leak problem. Properly applied tape is embedded in a thin layer of drywall compound, making it extremely unlikely that it would lift unless exposed to water. You must get the leak fixed before you repair the drywall. Okay, then I put up the fiberglass mesh tape on the seam, then put the mud stuff on there? Paper tape requires that you spread a think layer of drywall compound, slightly wider than the tape for the length of the tape, then place the tape in the compound and use the spatula blade to press the tape into the compound. The fiberglass stuff is sticky on one side, so you can just place it on the seam and spread the compound on top. Do I sand it when it dries? The general technique is to wait until the compound drys, knock down any large ridges with sandpaper, then feather a layer on top that is slightly wider. Final sanding may be required if you have smooth walls. Modern builders tend to use textured walls to avoid the sanding requirement. Thank you so much, I really appreciate your help, Good luck. |
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