Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.building.construction,alt.construction,misc.consumers.house,alt.architecture
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Please take a look at the elevation below. Should the entire porch have
IWS? Should I flash the siding to roof with IWS? Thanks. http://mropartner.com/frontelevation.htm |
#2
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.building.construction,alt.construction,misc.consumers.house,alt.architecture
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On May 20, 11:34 am, "Bgreer5050" wrote:
Please take a look at the elevation below. Should the entire porch have IWS? Should I flash the siding to roof with IWS? Thanks. http://mropartner.com/frontelevation.htm IMO, ice and water in this location is unnecessary. I would flash the siding with coil stock/step flashings. Ice and water doesn't really work because none of it can be exposed. If you expect extreme wind driven rain, you might consider it as an insurance layer under your flashing (lapped up under your building paper). I would use ice and water on eaves in valleys in climates with snow, and under asphalt shingles applied to a pitch less than 3/12. |
#3
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.building.construction,alt.construction,misc.consumers.house,alt.architecture
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On May 20, 12:34�pm, "Bgreer5050" wrote:
Please take a look at the elevation below. *Should the entire porch have IWS? *Should I flash the siding to roof with IWS? *Thanks. http://mropartner.com/frontelevation.htm yes because the extra cost will be low |
#4
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.building.construction,alt.construction,misc.consumers.house,alt.architecture
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
The IBC states the following:
1507.8.3 Underlayment. Underlayment shall comply with ASTM D 226, Type I or ASTM D 4869. In areas where there has been a history of ice forming along the eaves causing a backup of water, an ice barrier that consists of at least two layers of underlayment cemented together or of a self-adhering polymer-modified bitumen sheet shall be used in lieu of normal underlayment and extend from the eave's edge to a point at least 24 inches (610 mm) inside the exterior wall line of the building. Yes, ice and water shield (or equivalent) should be used if there is a history of freezing temperatures and it should extend BEYOND the exterior wall to OVER the interior of the structure 24" min. This is also the standard used by most shingle manufacturers and warranties may be voided if not installed. JMHO Terry |
#5
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.building.construction,alt.construction,misc.consumers.house,alt.architecture
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On May 20, 5:02 pm, "
wrote: The IBC states the following: 1507.8.3 Underlayment. Underlayment shall comply with ASTM D 226, Type I or ASTM D 4869. In areas where there has been a history of ice forming along the eaves causing a backup of water, an ice barrier that consists of at least two layers of underlayment cemented together or of a self-adhering polymer-modified bitumen sheet shall be used in lieu of normal underlayment and extend from the eave's edge to a point at least 24 inches (610 mm) inside the exterior wall line of the building. Yes, ice and water shield (or equivalent) should be used if there is a history of freezing temperatures and it should extend BEYOND the exterior wall to OVER the interior of the structure 24" min. This is also the standard used by most shingle manufacturers and warranties may be voided if not installed. JMHO Terry Sorry wrong reference... IBC 1507.2.8.2 Ice dam membrane... verbatim |
#6
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.building.construction,alt.construction,misc.consumers.house,alt.architecture
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On May 20, 5:02 pm, "
wrote: The IBC states the following: 1507.8.3 Underlayment. Underlayment shall comply with ASTM D 226, Type I or ASTM D 4869. In areas where there has been a history of ice forming along the eaves causing a backup of water, an ice barrier that consists of at least two layers of underlayment cemented together or of a self-adhering polymer-modified bitumen sheet shall be used in lieu of normal underlayment and extend from the eave's edge to a point at least 24 inches (610 mm) inside the exterior wall line of the building. Yes, ice and water shield (or equivalent) should be used if there is a history of freezing temperatures and it should extend BEYOND the exterior wall to OVER the interior of the structure 24" min. This is also the standard used by most shingle manufacturers and warranties may be voided if not installed. JMHO Terry Sorry, wrong reference... See IBC 1507.2.8.2 Ice dam membrane. In areas where there has been a history of ice forming along the eaves causing a backup of water, a membrane that consists of at least two layers of underlayment cemented together or of a self-adhering polymer modified bitumen sheet shall be used in lieu of normal underlayment and extend from the eave's edge to a point at least 24 inches (610 mm) inside the exterior wall line of the building. |
#7
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.building.construction,alt.construction,misc.consumers.house,alt.architecture
|
|||
|
|||
![]() wrote 1507.8.3 Underlayment. Underlayment shall comply with ASTM D 226, Type I or ASTM D 4869. In areas where there has been a history of ice forming along the eaves causing a backup of water, an ice barrier that consists of at least two layers of underlayment cemented together or of a self-adhering polymer-modified bitumen sheet shall be used in lieu of normal underlayment and extend from the eave's edge to a point at least 24 inches (610 mm) inside the exterior wall line of the building. Yes, ice and water shield (or equivalent) should be used if there is a history of freezing temperatures and it should extend BEYOND the exterior wall to OVER the interior of the structure 24" min. This is also the standard used by most shingle manufacturers and warranties may be voided if not installed. JMHO Terry Sorry wrong reference... IBC 1507.2.8.2 Ice dam membrane... verbatim Well inspector, you should have noticed, this is an _unheated_ area in question. So much for being an inspector. |
#8
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.building.construction,alt.construction,misc.consumers.house,alt.architecture
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On May 20, 6:19 pm, "
wrote: On May 20, 5:02 pm, " wrote: The IBC states the following: 1507.8.3 Underlayment. Underlayment shall comply with ASTM D 226, Type I or ASTM D 4869. In areas where there has been a history of ice forming along the eaves causing a backup of water, an ice barrier that consists of at least two layers of underlayment cemented together or of a self-adhering polymer-modified bitumen sheet shall be used in lieu of normal underlayment and extend from the eave's edge to a point at least 24 inches (610 mm) inside the exterior wall line of the building. Yes, ice and water shield (or equivalent) should be used if there is a history of freezing temperatures and it should extend BEYOND the exterior wall to OVER the interior of the structure 24" min. This is also the standard used by most shingle manufacturers and warranties may be voided if not installed. JMHO Terry Sorry, wrong reference... See IBC 1507.2.8.2 Ice dam membrane. In areas where there has been a history of ice forming along the eaves causing a backup of water, a membrane that consists of at least two layers of underlayment cemented together or of a self-adhering polymer modified bitumen sheet shall be used in lieu of normal underlayment and extend from the eave's edge to a point at least 24 inches (610 mm) inside the exterior wall line of the building. Ice dams occur because heat from the interior of a building melts snow, and the resulting water runs onto the eave, where it freezes, since the eave is no longer heated from the interior of the building. The resulting ice dam causes water to back up under the shingles, and preventing the resultant leaks is the function of the ice and water shield, and this is why codes require it. So I guess the question is, will ice dams form on your unheated porch? I've never seen it happen, even in climates that get a lot of snow (300+ inches). |
#9
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.building.construction,alt.construction,misc.consumers.house,alt.architecture
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Thanks to all for your input.
"marson" wrote in message oups.com... On May 20, 6:19 pm, " wrote: On May 20, 5:02 pm, " wrote: The IBC states the following: 1507.8.3 Underlayment. Underlayment shall comply with ASTM D 226, Type I or ASTM D 4869. In areas where there has been a history of ice forming along the eaves causing a backup of water, an ice barrier that consists of at least two layers of underlayment cemented together or of a self-adhering polymer-modified bitumen sheet shall be used in lieu of normal underlayment and extend from the eave's edge to a point at least 24 inches (610 mm) inside the exterior wall line of the building. Yes, ice and water shield (or equivalent) should be used if there is a history of freezing temperatures and it should extend BEYOND the exterior wall to OVER the interior of the structure 24" min. This is also the standard used by most shingle manufacturers and warranties may be voided if not installed. JMHO Terry Sorry, wrong reference... See IBC 1507.2.8.2 Ice dam membrane. In areas where there has been a history of ice forming along the eaves causing a backup of water, a membrane that consists of at least two layers of underlayment cemented together or of a self-adhering polymer modified bitumen sheet shall be used in lieu of normal underlayment and extend from the eave's edge to a point at least 24 inches (610 mm) inside the exterior wall line of the building. Ice dams occur because heat from the interior of a building melts snow, and the resulting water runs onto the eave, where it freezes, since the eave is no longer heated from the interior of the building. The resulting ice dam causes water to back up under the shingles, and preventing the resultant leaks is the function of the ice and water shield, and this is why codes require it. So I guess the question is, will ice dams form on your unheated porch? I've never seen it happen, even in climates that get a lot of snow (300+ inches). |
#10
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.building.construction,alt.construction,misc.consumers.house,alt.architecture
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Every notice the heating effect of the sun on a cold winter day? Melts the
snow, runs down to the gutter and re-freezes night. It can be a very real cause of ice damming; not just heat loss from the structure. I also would not hesitate to use IWS underlayment. Cost is low and excellent insurance. (I used it 100% on my roof.) It's not a code requirement in this particular area, but it's good common sense to add extra insurance at little extra cost. (I'm also an inspector / plan reviewer as well.) Well inspector, you should have noticed, this is an _unheated_ area in question. So much for being an inspector. |
#11
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.building.construction,alt.construction,misc.consumers.house,alt.architecture
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On May 20, 11:34�am, "Bgreer5050" wrote:
Please take a look at the elevation below. *Should the entire porch have IWS? *Should I flash the siding to roof with IWS? *Thanks. http://mropartner.com/frontelevation.htm Why not? I think the expense would be minimal. Even if the ppotential for damage from ice-damming would be minimal, the possible cost could be quite high. At worst, it would probably serve as another layer against leaks. |
#12
![]()
Posted to alt.home.repair,alt.building.construction,alt.construction,misc.consumers.house,alt.architecture
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
What size stock flashing would you recommend?
"marson" wrote in message oups.com... On May 20, 11:34 am, "Bgreer5050" wrote: Please take a look at the elevation below. Should the entire porch have IWS? Should I flash the siding to roof with IWS? Thanks. http://mropartner.com/frontelevation.htm IMO, ice and water in this location is unnecessary. I would flash the siding with coil stock/step flashings. Ice and water doesn't really work because none of it can be exposed. If you expect extreme wind driven rain, you might consider it as an insurance layer under your flashing (lapped up under your building paper). I would use ice and water on eaves in valleys in climates with snow, and under asphalt shingles applied to a pitch less than 3/12. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Ice and Water Shield On Porch? | Home Repair | |||
GE Ice Maker -- Water Won't Stop | Home Ownership | |||
What happens to Ice Box Defrost Water | Home Repair | |||
Ice shield roofing membrane ques. | Home Repair | |||
Ice shield roofing membrane ques. | Home Repair |