I have looked at some membrane (at 84 lumber) and it was smooth and
adhesive on one side, the other side had sand bonded to it, almost like
roll roofing rather than felt.

Are all membranes like this? I'd rather just have smooth rubber on the
non-adhesive side.

Are there any membranes that are adhesive on both sides?

Dave

The sanded type is for "roofer security". It affords slightly better
slip resistance when wet. I don't believe there are any with adhesive
on both sides. Why do you ask? Tom

I have an odd repair I need to make, and wish to put some membrane
in-between the lower- and upper-sheets of metal roofing at a lap joint.

Ideally I'd get some more of the same type metal roofing, cut it into
3' sections, and slide it up under the upper piece, and over the lower
piece. I'm deeming this too expensive and labor intensive (a lot of
cutting), and don't like my chances of finding exactly the same
brand/type/shape of metal roof panel.

The dorks that built the roof on my garage didn't lap the panels very
much (I think) and didn't use butyl tape on the lap joint, so all
across the roof there is a 65' long leaky joint. In some places the
plywood sheathing is rotted a bit and won't hold a screw, so I can't
just pull the screws, add the tape, and install new screws.

I'm not going to strip the roof to replace a tiny amount of rot, and
need a way to essentially seal the joint, and to seal all the screw
holes all the way across. I'd just leave the screws that won't hold out
(and fill the holes with roofing spooge, and put screws nearby where
they would hold) if I thought I could really plug the holes, but I
think that would leak given the shearing motion of the panels as they
expand/contract.

I'm also tempted to just run the butyl tape above the screw holes, and
at the screw holes, and run new screws above and below the holes that
won't hold a screw. Just leave the holes that won't hold a screw empty,
and let the tape fill 'em.

I think that sliding new metal sheets in is the best fix, and slipping
some membrane in is the 2nd best.

Dave

Sliding partial sheets of metal would be best, I agree. The butyl tape
idea could work, but you'd need some sort of helper to get it slipped
into the joint. How about installing some ply underneath the decking
(from the inside) to provide some meat for the screws? Tom

I could, it would just be hell getting to all the spots.
I would also prefer to seal the leaks, and let the rotted portions
remain completely exposed.

I think I can raise the upper panel enough to slide in tape, or felt,
or membrane.

Its going to be 50 and sunny for probably the last weekend here in
central NY, so whatever I'm going to do, its timne to do it.

See my roofing thread for another idea I had (I shamelessly bumped it)

-Dave

On 26 Oct 2005 12:21:14 -0700, wrote:

I have an odd repair I need to make, and wish to put some membrane
in-between the lower- and upper-sheets of metal roofing at a lap joint.

Ideally I'd get some more of the same type metal roofing, cut it into
3' sections, and slide it up under the upper piece, and over the lower
piece. I'm deeming this too expensive and labor intensive (a lot of
cutting), and don't like my chances of finding exactly the same
brand/type/shape of metal roof panel.

The dorks that built the roof on my garage didn't lap the panels very
much (I think) and didn't use butyl tape on the lap joint, so all
across the roof there is a 65' long leaky joint. In some places the
plywood sheathing is rotted a bit and won't hold a screw, so I can't
just pull the screws, add the tape, and install new screws.

I'm not going to strip the roof to replace a tiny amount of rot, and
need a way to essentially seal the joint, and to seal all the screw
holes all the way across. I'd just leave the screws that won't hold out
(and fill the holes with roofing spooge, and put screws nearby where
they would hold) if I thought I could really plug the holes, but I
think that would leak given the shearing motion of the panels as they
expand/contract.

I'm also tempted to just run the butyl tape above the screw holes, and
at the screw holes, and run new screws above and below the holes that
won't hold a screw. Just leave the holes that won't hold a screw empty,
and let the tape fill 'em.

Climb up there with a welding rig.

anywhere near rochester?

wrote in message
oups.com...
I could, it would just be hell getting to all the spots.
I would also prefer to seal the leaks, and let the rotted portions
remain completely exposed.

I think I can raise the upper panel enough to slide in tape, or felt,
or membrane.

Its going to be 50 and sunny for probably the last weekend here in
central NY, so whatever I'm going to do, its timne to do it.

See my roofing thread for another idea I had (I shamelessly bumped it)

-Dave

Mo' like cortland area.

D