Never had a gas powered snow blower until now. How do I store it until I
need it next winter?
The engine takes a mixture of gas and oil.
I already ran it until the engine died for lack of fuel.
What else do I need to do (i.e. with the spark plug, etc)

Thanks.
Walter

Walter Cohen wrote:
Never had a gas powered snow blower until now. How do I store it
until I need it next winter?
The engine takes a mixture of gas and oil.
I already ran it until the engine died for lack of fuel.
What else do I need to do (i.e. with the spark plug, etc)

Thanks.
Walter

That's the big part. For me I would be sure to hose it off to get any
salt off of it and clean it up. I might spray any exposed metal with some
WS-40 and store it someplace dry and safe.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
Walter Cohen wrote:
Never had a gas powered snow blower until now. How do I store it
until I need it next winter?
The engine takes a mixture of gas and oil.
I already ran it until the engine died for lack of fuel.
What else do I need to do (i.e. with the spark plug, etc)

That's the big part. For me I would be sure to hose it off to get any
salt off of it and clean it up. I might spray any exposed metal with some
WS-40 and store it someplace dry and safe.

Emptying gas tank and carburettor are primary.
I also (2) empty the oil sump;
(3) remove spark plug, squirt a few drops of oil
in the hole and pull manual starter once (to
distribute oil on cylinder walls, and replace
the spark plug only finger tight;
(4) store under cover from the weather.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

"Don Phillipson" wrote in message
...
"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
Walter Cohen wrote:
Never had a gas powered snow blower until now. How do I store it
until I need it next winter?
The engine takes a mixture of gas and oil.
I already ran it until the engine died for lack of fuel.
What else do I need to do (i.e. with the spark plug, etc)

That's the big part. For me I would be sure to hose it off to get
any
salt off of it and clean it up. I might spray any exposed metal with
some
WS-40 and store it someplace dry and safe.

Emptying gas tank and carburettor are primary.
I also (2) empty the oil sump;
(3) remove spark plug, squirt a few drops of oil
in the hole and pull manual starter once (to
distribute oil on cylinder walls, and replace
the spark plug only finger tight;
(4) store under cover from the weather.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)




NO FINGER TIGHT SPARK PLUGS !! I unknowingly started a lawn mower with a
finger tight spark plug. When the spark plug left the cylinder head and
went through the side of my boot I figured "no problem" it will heal. Two
weeks later they amputated my great toe at the first joint.

Bill

"Berkshire Bill" wrote in message
news:463e6b88$0$4642

Emptying gas tank and carburettor are primary.
I also (2) empty the oil sump;
(3) remove spark plug, squirt a few drops of oil
in the hole and pull manual starter once (to
distribute oil on cylinder walls, and replace
the spark plug only finger tight;
(4) store under cover from the weather.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)




NO FINGER TIGHT SPARK PLUGS !! I unknowingly started a lawn mower with a
finger tight spark plug. When the spark plug left the cylinder head and
went through the side of my boot I figured "no problem" it will heal. Two
weeks later they amputated my great toe at the first joint.

Bill



....and I'd say the same to the suggestion to "drain the oil". Bad idea -
you will forget, and it will be expensive when you're reminded by the
shrieking sound of bent, busted piston & valves.

"Bob M." wrote in message
. ..

"Berkshire Bill" wrote in message
news:463e6b88$0$4642

Emptying gas tank and carburettor are primary.
I also (2) empty the oil sump;
(3) remove spark plug, squirt a few drops of oil
in the hole and pull manual starter once (to
distribute oil on cylinder walls, and replace
the spark plug only finger tight;
(4) store under cover from the weather.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)




NO FINGER TIGHT SPARK PLUGS !! I unknowingly started a lawn mower with a
finger tight spark plug. When the spark plug left the cylinder head and
went through the side of my boot I figured "no problem" it will heal.
Two weeks later they amputated my great toe at the first joint.

Bill



...and I'd say the same to the suggestion to "drain the oil". Bad idea -
you will forget, and it will be expensive when you're reminded by the
shrieking sound of bent, busted piston & valves.
What is this "oil" you speak of? If he burnt off all the gas, where would
there be oil?

Sorry about your toe! I wouldn't have expected that to happen; it must have
been very loose.

Three out of four of Don's suggestions are spot on, and number 3 is
especially important, but:

Don't drain the oil from the sump.

Next October / November, as you get it ready for the snow season,
get it started and run it 10 or so minutes in neutral to get the oil
hot.

Shut it down, drai the oil and refill with clean new lube oil of whatever
grade the mfgr recommends.

To get it unning after strage, you'll want to put in a new plug.
You may also want to spray a bunch of "Start Fluid" (ether)
or carb cleaner into the cylinder while the old plug is out
and before puting the new plug in, and pull the engine over
once or twice, to clean the oil residue from the cylinder / pistons.

Don Phillipson wrote:
"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...

Walter Cohen wrote:

Never had a gas powered snow blower until now. How do I store it
until I need it next winter?
The engine takes a mixture of gas and oil.
I already ran it until the engine died for lack of fuel.
What else do I need to do (i.e. with the spark plug, etc)

That's the big part. For me I would be sure to hose it off to get any
salt off of it and clean it up. I might spray any exposed metal with some
WS-40 and store it someplace dry and safe.


Emptying gas tank and carburettor are primary.
I also (2) empty the oil sump;
(3) remove spark plug, squirt a few drops of oil
in the hole and pull manual starter once (to
distribute oil on cylinder walls, and replace
the spark plug only finger tight;
(4) store under cover from the weather.

On May 6, 2:05 pm, "Walter Cohen" wrote:
Never had a gas powered snow blower until now. How do I store it until I
need it next winter?
The engine takes a mixture of gas and oil.
I already ran it until the engine died for lack of fuel.
What else do I need to do (i.e. with the spark plug, etc)

Thanks.
Walter

My local mechanic tells me that it's no good to run the machine dry
unless the carb were also emptied. The main risk is from gas turning
to gel in the carb which requires repair. He says that gas used to
have additives (lead) which made them very stable. Now that those
dangerous additives have been removed gasoline has a limited useful
life when stored in small quantities.

He has instructed me that when storing a machine to add a gasoline
stabilizer to whatever gas is left in the machine and then run the
machine at least long enough to get treated gas into the carb. The
stuff is available everwhere. In his opinion it would not be
necessary to run the machine out of gas if this additive is used. It
also wastes gas and pollutes the air uneccessarily.

He also suggested that I add the stuff to all of the gas I use in my
numerous small engines since they are used intermittently. It is not
expensive. They are a busy shop and don't want to see me for somthing
stupid like a clogged carb.

They also suggest dryer sheets in the exhaust pipe to discourage
rodents. One more than one occasion mice have made their home inside
my mowers. Moth balls have also been mentioned as a rodent
repellent. Just don't forget that they are in there!

Since you have a two stroke engine (gas and oil) I would run it dry.
I would recommend first getting all the gas out of the gas tank. From
there run it dry.
Make sure to use the choke on it when it starts to sputter. Now
some motors have a drain screw or plug on the bottom of the carb. You
need to get
that out too.

Annual maint. should be check and clean the plug as well as grease it
up. If the unit is fairly new I wouldnt worry yet about the rubber
paddles or the auger belt.
If you have "never seize" (silver stuff) I would recommend putting it
on the threads of the spark plug. Make sure not to overtighten that
spark plug!

The problem with gas is that when it gets old it starts to gel.
Clogs up everything. Now with two cycle gas, the oil in there
seperates and basically becomes a nasty black tar. Real pain to get
it all out. Many many cans of Gumout to clean out a gas tank and
carb.

If you have an older snowblower with a steel gas tank I would
recommend leaving gas in there to prevent rust from forming inside of
it. Stabil works ok. Some like it, others dont. I have used it one
on some motors with success. If you do go the stabil route, you
should periodically run the engine to make sure its happy. Nothing
like a tool failing right when you need it.

Tom

P.S. On a 4 cycle motor, dont forget to change that motor oil!




On May 6, 3:05 pm, "Walter Cohen" wrote:
Never had a gas powered snow blower until now. How do I store it until I
need it next winter?
The engine takes a mixture of gas and oil.
I already ran it until the engine died for lack of fuel.
What else do I need to do (i.e. with the spark plug, etc)

Thanks.
Walter

Ok, so then it sounds like I could put a few drops of oil in the plug
opening and pull the starter a few times, then replace the plug.
What do you think about me leaving the gas/oil tank filler cap off for a day
to evaporate any small amount of gas/oil (oil won't evaporate but the gas
will).

Thanks,
Walter
wrote in message
ups.com...
Since you have a two stroke engine (gas and oil) I would run it dry.
I would recommend first getting all the gas out of the gas tank. From
there run it dry.
Make sure to use the choke on it when it starts to sputter. Now
some motors have a drain screw or plug on the bottom of the carb. You
need to get
that out too.

Annual maint. should be check and clean the plug as well as grease it
up. If the unit is fairly new I wouldnt worry yet about the rubber
paddles or the auger belt.
If you have "never seize" (silver stuff) I would recommend putting it
on the threads of the spark plug. Make sure not to overtighten that
spark plug!

The problem with gas is that when it gets old it starts to gel.
Clogs up everything. Now with two cycle gas, the oil in there
seperates and basically becomes a nasty black tar. Real pain to get
it all out. Many many cans of Gumout to clean out a gas tank and
carb.

If you have an older snowblower with a steel gas tank I would
recommend leaving gas in there to prevent rust from forming inside of
it. Stabil works ok. Some like it, others dont. I have used it one
on some motors with success. If you do go the stabil route, you
should periodically run the engine to make sure its happy. Nothing
like a tool failing right when you need it.

Tom

P.S. On a 4 cycle motor, dont forget to change that motor oil!




On May 6, 3:05 pm, "Walter Cohen" wrote:
Never had a gas powered snow blower until now. How do I store it until I
need it next winter?
The engine takes a mixture of gas and oil.
I already ran it until the engine died for lack of fuel.
What else do I need to do (i.e. with the spark plug, etc)

Thanks.
Walter

On May 9, 8:00 pm, "Walter Cohen" wrote:
Ok, so then it sounds like I could put a few drops of oil in the plug
opening and pull the starter a few times, then replace the plug.
What do you think about me leaving the gas/oil tank filler cap off for a day
to evaporate any small amount of gas/oil (oil won't evaporate but the gas
will).

Use Stabil as suggested and forget about the tank and the fuel.

On 10 May 2007 07:14:08 -0700, Lawrence
wrote:

On May 9, 8:00 pm, "Walter Cohen" wrote:
Ok, so then it sounds like I could put a few drops of oil in the plug
opening and pull the starter a few times, then replace the plug.
What do you think about me leaving the gas/oil tank filler cap off for a day
to evaporate any small amount of gas/oil (oil won't evaporate but the gas
will).

Use Stabil as suggested and forget about the tank and the fuel.

Go out to your local airport, general aviation, and bring a a couple 2
gal gas cam and purchase 2 gals of 100LL avgas.

Drain out your snowblower gas, put it in the car. Then put in about a
pint or so of 100LL and run the machine until it's running on the LL,
should be about 5 mins or so. DONE

It will start as if you didn't store it at all. This same proceedure
can be used in all small engines including those using pre mix. With
premix make sure it mixes well before use.