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#1
Posted to misc.consumers.house
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installing curtain rod
When installing the brackets for the curtain
rod, do I need to mail them into studs? Is this true in general, that anything I want to nail into the walls must be nailed onto a stud? Thanks, Anita |
#2
Posted to misc.consumers.house
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installing curtain rod
Seymour Bigby-Heinz wrote:
On Fri, 16 Jun 2006 18:13:30 GMT, Irrational Number wrote: When installing the brackets for the curtain rod, do I need to mail them into studs? Is this true in general, that anything I want to nail into the walls must be nailed onto a stud? It is certainly more secure than relying upon the strength of the wallboard or plaster to hold up your curtains and rods. Remember that their weight may not be the only thing that is being supported. Someone tripping and accidentally rubbing against a curtain might pull the brackets and screws out of the wallboard. They'd be more likely to just rip the curtains, if the brackets are secured in studs. I guess it comes down to whether you want to pay to repair the damaged walboard, or pay to replace the ripped curtains, or both. I personally prefer to support most things that I hang on walls by using the studs, unless they are less than a couple of pounds in weight. Okay, thanks for the information! I will look for the studs. -- Anita -- |
#3
Posted to misc.consumers.house
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installing curtain rod
"Irrational Number" wrote in message hlink.net... Seymour Bigby-Heinz wrote: On Fri, 16 Jun 2006 18:13:30 GMT, Irrational Number wrote: When installing the brackets for the curtain rod, do I need to mail them into studs? Is this true in general, that anything I want to nail into the walls must be nailed onto a stud? It is certainly more secure than relying upon the strength of the wallboard or plaster to hold up your curtains and rods. Remember that their weight may not be the only thing that is being supported. Someone tripping and accidentally rubbing against a curtain might pull the brackets and screws out of the wallboard. They'd be more likely to just rip the curtains, if the brackets are secured in studs. I guess it comes down to whether you want to pay to repair the damaged walboard, or pay to replace the ripped curtains, or both. I personally prefer to support most things that I hang on walls by using the studs, unless they are less than a couple of pounds in weight. Okay, thanks for the information! I will look for the studs. In any house built in the last 50 years or so, there is almost always a header above the window. So, there is usually solid wood above the window trim, and slightly past the top corners of the casing or interior trim. If the interior opening isn't trimmed, but has flush drywall, the solid part usually goes a inch or two past the corner bead. Do not screw the brackets right onto the trim, or right on the edges of the drywall, as neither will be very solid. The screws that come with most home center curtain rods are too short, in my experience. You want screws at least 1-1.5 inches long. Pilot holes and slightly soaping the screws helps a lot, especially in an older house. If the wall is already chewed up, a little spackle will cover the holes, but you want to mount the rod a little higher to use fresh spots. aem sends.... |
#4
Posted to misc.consumers.house
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installing curtain rod
Irrational Number writes:
When installing the brackets for the curtain rod, do I need to mail them into studs? Is this true in general, that anything I want to nail into the walls must be nailed onto a stud? When installing shelves, I always go for studs, but for curtain rods--unless we're dealing with very heavy floor length drapes, that's not necessary, and is often infeasible. I've seen lots of things up just with a screw into the wallboard and it works but the right way to go would be to use a screw into an appropriate drywall anchor. There are a bazillion types of these for handling a variety of load, but plastic mollies are the ones most commonly included with curtain rod kits, and they work nicely. When the screw is tightened in them, they expand against the back of the drywall and form a secure surface. Googling drywall anchor will give you some things to see including http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/i...infanchor.shtm which has pictures of various anchors a little down the page. -- -- Todd H. http://www.toddh.net/ |
#5
Posted to misc.consumers.house
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installing curtain rod
Todd H. wrote:
Irrational Number writes: When installing the brackets for the curtain rod, do I need to mail them into studs? Is this true in general, that anything I want to nail into the walls must be nailed onto a stud? Googling drywall anchor will give you some things to see including http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/i...infanchor.shtm Thank you, all! It seems I have some learning to do before I hang this curtain rod. Maybe I'll just ask DH to do it, but I kind of want to work the cordless drill myself for kicks. -- Anita -- |
#6
Posted to misc.consumers.house
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installing curtain rod
Irrational Number writes:
Todd H. wrote: Irrational Number writes: When installing the brackets for the curtain rod, do I need to mail them into studs? Is this true in general, that anything I want to nail into the walls must be nailed onto a stud? Googling drywall anchor will give you some things to see including http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/i...infanchor.shtm Thank you, all! It seems I have some learning to do before I hang this curtain rod. Maybe I'll just ask DH to do it, but I kind of want to work the cordless drill myself for kicks. Don't get scared off of hanging a curtain! :-) Really, it's quite simple. Didn't your curtain rod come with screws and plastic drywall anchors? You just select a drillbit that's just large enough to make a hole to stick the little plastic drywall anchor in to it's flange (i.e. not too big so it just drops into the wall never to be seen again), put the bracket on top, stick the screw in and tighten. But, if there's already wood at the point you want to put your bracket, you don't need the anchor, just drill a small pilot hole (a hole smaller than the screw you're using) and screw it in. An electronic stud finder is a handy addition to the tool box--they measure wall density and tell you whether wood studs or headers are behind your drywall. They're cheap too. -- Todd H. http://www.toddh.net/ |
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