Hi;

I need the part number for the anode cap shield, you know the plastic piece
that gets soaked with coolant. Someone rearranged things at work and right now
I need one of these. Also, the part numer for the anode cap/lead would be nice
too, I can't count on just finding (anymore).

JURB

On 20 Nov 2004 01:13:52 GMT, (JURB6006) wrote:

Hi;

I need the part number for the anode cap shield, you know the plastic piece
that gets soaked with coolant. Someone rearranged things at work and right now
I need one of these. Also, the part numer for the anode cap/lead would be nice
too, I can't count on just finding (anymore).

JURB

The suction cup with wire is same suction cup used on older RCA CRT
TVs, and you can disassemble it to get cup out of wire with metal
bits, disc thing is held in by rubber lip. If HV lead is thinner, use
the black sleeve from your spare parts, Black sleeve's claws is made
for smaller diameter insulation.

Plastic shields depends on particular models.

I had no problem using quality clear silicone chalking if you let it
cure completely. The white stuff by RCA is $$$ and absoluately hate
it especially when I must change flyback on 32 and 36 RCA models.
Scrape, scrape scrape, carefully not to get tube implode! I don't see
need for that, where a ring of thin bead of dielectric grease will
suffice!

Cheers,

Wizard

The suction cup with wire is same suction cup used on older RCA CRT

I am aware of that, in fact the reason I ask is because I've done used up all
the used ones, even sacrificing a few DV flybacks. I've also taken them out of
the boxes of the new RCA flys (the ones that give you a seperate anode lead).

Getting the anode lead into the splitter is no problem, I do use the black
ring. They do grip tighter than the origs.

Plastic shields depends on particular models.


Yes but I'll take my chances. I've seen no difference in them.

Usually they're soaked in coolant, which is BAD BAD BAD. Thus far I've soaked
them in alcohol overnight and have good success with that, but sometimes it's
actually burnt. Thing must've run awhile with a constant corona arc going on,
not to trip the shutdown with a direct arc. Whatever, I'm out of used ones. The
anode cap isn't that big of a problem, I need that "overcup" thing, it's used
because of the proximity of that metal mounting plate to the anode cap.

Let me put it this way, I really don't want to do it right, but I will because
I absolutely do not want to do it again.

I had no problem using quality clear silicone chalking if you let it
cure completely

I use black for the anode itself and copper for the coolant sealing surfaces.
So far I have a very good success rate, near perfect.

where a ring of thin bead of dielectric grease will
suffice!

It will not, contrary to popular belief, the silicone is not only an
environmental seal, it needs X amount of thickness to bolster the insulative
properties of the cap itself. Dielectric compound will not harden anytime soon
and thins out to the point to not lend it's aid to the total insulation.

Perhaps this is not true where you're at due to climate, but my climate reaches
really high humidity, not quite Florida, but close.

One thing people don't even learn from their cars, ethylen glycol destroys
rubber's ability to electrically insulate. Your Silicone plug wires might be
fine after your top end gets a coolant bath, but if it hits the rubber boots at
the plugs or coils (or distributor cap) they are likely not to be so good.

Actually they had a spray, not a water displacer, but a clear coating that was
supposed to fix that. I wonder if it would work her, possibly even as a
preventative measure. Hmm.

Anyway, thanks for your time, I will find an anode cap, but I need one of those
shields. Dammit I wish people wouldn't reorganise things, now I can't find
anything. Again thanks, and if there are three different ones, I'll buy all
three, I don't have the model number because my buddy just pulled the box, but
it's definately a 169.

JURB

Subject: RCA PTK169 part no
From: (JURB6006)
Date: 11/20/04 11:23 PM Eastern Standard Time



I am aware of that, in fact the reason I ask is because I've done used up all
the used ones, even sacrificing a few DV flybacks.


A tip: Zenith flybacks use the very same anode cap from Hobson
Brothers-Chicago. I've been scavanging these as well.



Anyway, thank
s for your time, I will find an anode cap, but I need one of
those
shields.

I don't think a part number exists, but send me your snail mail and I'll send
you one of my precious remaining shields.

BTW, I've been repairing even burned ones by Dremeling out (yes, it's a verb)
all the carbonized plastic, scrubbing with an amonia and detergent cleaner, and
skim coating the shield with quality RTV. No problems.

John

On 21 Nov 2004 04:23:25 GMT, (JURB6006) wrote:

The suction cup with wire is same suction cup used on older RCA CRT

I am aware of that, in fact the reason I ask is because I've done used up all
the used ones, even sacrificing a few DV flybacks. I've also taken them out of
the boxes of the new RCA flys (the ones that give you a seperate anode lead).

Getting the anode lead into the splitter is no problem, I do use the black
ring. They do grip tighter than the origs.

Actually, I find it harder to push in completely if insulation is too
thick for black ring (sleeve?).

Plastic shields depends on particular models.


Yes but I'll take my chances. I've seen no difference in them.

Usually they're soaked in coolant, which is BAD BAD BAD. Thus far I've soaked
them in alcohol overnight and have good success with that, but sometimes it's
actually burnt. Thing must've run awhile with a constant corona arc going on,
not to trip the shutdown with a direct arc. Whatever, I'm out of used ones. The
anode cap isn't that big of a problem, I need that "overcup" thing, it's used
because of the proximity of that metal mounting plate to the anode cap.

Let me put it this way, I really don't want to do it right, but I will because
I absolutely do not want to do it again.

Absolutely agreed 100%. I have to reinstall part-finder to pull up
the part numbers.


I had no problem using quality clear silicone chalking if you let it
cure completely

I use black for the anode itself and copper for the coolant sealing surfaces.
So far I have a very good success rate, near perfect.

Reason I chose clear is it has no coloring or something else to
decrease the cured insulating ability. Long story short: tried to
carefully pull out a HV lead of later hv divider block in RCA PTV and
lead came out completely because lead flew out of block violently.
*&^&%&!! Had to dig out crt and replace the anode cup. **&&((.
Thanks very much for the idea that guys have to pull hard to get those
leads out of sucide push-in HV blocks! I wish RCA use different HV
block that you can disconnect leads just like wire connectors with
locks. Like samsung's style is fine. Grrrr.

where a ring of thin bead of dielectric grease will
suffice!

It will not, contrary to popular belief, the silicone is not only an
environmental seal, it needs X amount of thickness to bolster the insulative
properties of the cap itself. Dielectric compound will not harden anytime soon
and thins out to the point to not lend it's aid to the total insulation.

Perhaps this is not true where you're at due to climate, but my climate reaches
really high humidity, not quite Florida, but close.

??? Silicone thinning out maybe...

THere were lot of direct view sets (27, 32, 36") that was greased like
this like JVC does, Toshiba, Hitachi etc. But on any PTV, I don't do
this because of coolant issues. During summers, humidty get high and
I don't see any issues with this.


One thing people don't even learn from their cars, ethylen glycol destroys
rubber's ability to electrically insulate. Your Silicone plug wires might be
fine after your top end gets a coolant bath, but if it hits the rubber boots at
the plugs or coils (or distributor cap) they are likely not to be so good.

I know. Ethyle Glycol is so sneaky and hidous villian!

Anyway, thanks for your time, I will find an anode cap, but I need one of those
shields. Dammit I wish people wouldn't reorganise things, now I can't find
anything. Again thanks, and if there are three different ones, I'll buy all
three, I don't have the model number because my buddy just pulled the box, but
it's definately a 169.

YUP. I do work on those often. I had a RCA PTV that developed a HV
pinhole leak in anode cup. Pinhole is absolutely *tiny*, had to
massage the cup to find it. Oh yeah has plastic hat too, but HV
simply laughed at it and went around it. Noise and stink, made
picture noisy.

JURB

Cheers,

Wizard