Okay, SOS pads in the kitchen but what in the electronics lab?

TIA
Norm

WD40 is the universal cure.

"Norm Dresner" wrote in message
...
Okay, SOS pads in the kitchen but what in the electronics lab?

TIA
Norm

"Craig Hart" wrote in message
...
| WD40 is the universal cure.

Replaced by or followed by tuner cleaner. WD40 is rather nasty. There is/was
a version of tuner cleaner that screwed on the thread of the pot to force
the stuff inside.

N

I have previously used a product called Lubra Clean with very good results.
Requires access to the physical opening on the side of the control
assemblies to allow one to put the cleaning materials inside. I normally
used a small screwdriver or a snapped off wooden "Q-Tip" to apply the Lubra
Clean to the slider or wiper assemblies.
"Ross Herbert" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 23:37:46 GMT, "Norm Dresner"
wrote:

Okay, SOS pads in the kitchen but what in the electronics lab?

TIA
Norm

Oh no! Not this old chestnut again...........

There was a thread on this subject back in August so just search for
WD40 in this group.

Hi Norm,

Please don't use WD40. It has it's place but not here. WD40 it leaves
behind an oily resudue....and it smells bad. Not the nicest thing to
smell in a house.

I would use a fiberglass brush (looks like a retractable pen) and some
contact cleaner (MG Chemicals). No residue it left behind.

Most of the cleaning can be done with the fiberglass brush alone. I
recommend using this because a metal brush will leave scratches and
gouges on whatever you're cleaning. The fiberglass brush doesn't.

Of you'd rather not open up the pots and use the brush, then just
spray the contact cleaner inside.

Dan


"Norm Dresner" wrote in message ...
Okay, SOS pads in the kitchen but what in the electronics lab?

TIA
Norm

"Norm Dresner" wrote in message
...
Okay, SOS pads in the kitchen but what in the electronics lab?

TIA
Norm


All you need is here,
www.caig.com

Used in the pro audio world where clean pots are essential.

Dave W.

"Dave Walsh" wrote in message
...

"Norm Dresner" wrote in message
...
Okay, SOS pads in the kitchen but what in the electronics lab?

TIA
Norm


All you need is here,
www.caig.com

Used in the pro audio world where clean pots are essential.

Dave W.


I'll look for it when I get to the local "electronics" store but I'll
never visit the website again -- I have a "thing" about people who feel that
they have to play their music on my computer.

BTW, back in the '70s IIRC there was a product called (something like)
Cramolin. What ever happened to it? The EPA?

Thanks for the suggestion anyway

Norm

"Norm Dresner" wrote in message
...
"Dave Walsh" wrote in message
...

"Norm Dresner" wrote in message
...
Okay, SOS pads in the kitchen but what in the electronics lab?

TIA
Norm


All you need is here,
www.caig.com

Used in the pro audio world where clean pots are essential.

Dave W.


I'll look for it when I get to the local "electronics" store but I'll
never visit the website again -- I have a "thing" about people who feel
that
they have to play their music on my computer.

BTW, back in the '70s IIRC there was a product called (something like)
Cramolin. What ever happened to it? The EPA?

Thanks for the suggestion anyway

Norm

Cramolin is now DeOxit. Caig is the US source. Still the best that I have
found.

Leonard

WD40 is the universal cure.

"Norm Dresner" wrote in message
...
Okay, SOS pads in the kitchen but what in the electronics lab?

TIA
Norm


WD40 is a wax disssolved in a mixture of solvents. It will eventually
dissolved the resistive material inside many pots...thus permanently destroying
the part.

Hint: WD40 IS NOT A LUBRICANT. IT IS A WATER-DISPLACER ("WD"...GET IT)
designed for corosion protection of ferous metals. WD40 IS USELESS AND
COUNTERPRODUCTIVE FOR ANY OTHER APPLICATION.

Go to an electronics store and purchase a can of spray-on contact cleaner (with
or without lubricant for pots). There are at least dozens of different brand
names.


webpa

WD40 is a wax disssolved in a mixture of solvents. It will eventually
dissolved the resistive material inside many pots...thus permanently
destroying
the part.

This has always been a unsubstantiated rumor in my opinion, others can
disagree, mostly people that have never even used WD40, just read about the
problems and relaying the rumors that have little fact.
I'll tell my experience. Way back in 1978 when I started in the business we
used WD40, never ever hurt a thing, then used commercial tunerwash, never hurt
a thing, then when CFCs were taken out of tunerwash it was suddenly very risky
to use because it would desolve certain plastics ruining parts. We went back to
WD40 which I still use today although rarely do pots come into the picture with
newer equipment.
So in summary, I've cleaned many thousand pots and tuners with WD40 and I'd
recommend it.

WD40 is a wax disssolved in a mixture of solvents. It will eventually
dissolved the resistive material inside many pots...thus permanently
destroying
the part.

This has always been a unsubstantiated rumor in my opinion, others can
disagree, mostly people that have never even used WD40, just read about the
problems and relaying the rumors that have little fact.
I'll tell my experience. Way back in 1978 when I started in the business we
used WD40, never ever hurt a thing, then used commercial tunerwash, never
hurt
a thing, then when CFCs were taken out of tunerwash it was suddenly very
risky
to use because it would desolve certain plastics ruining parts. We went back
to
WD40 which I still use today although rarely do pots come into the picture
with
newer equipment.
So in summary, I've cleaned many thousand pots and tuners with WD40 and I'd
recommend it.


I've cleaned dozens of pots, switches, and tuners (consumer parts and aerospace
parts) with WD40 (20 years ago). Stopped instantly when some of the parts
began disintegrating, and others failed due to the goo (wax) left behind after
the solvents evaporated.

I also used to use WD40 to lubricate automotive parts...such as door hinges and
latch/lock (not cylinders) mechanisms. Again, after a period of time, the goo
build-up became horrendous, and the goo seems to be the world's most perfect
dust/dirt attractor. After my truck's door latch mechanisms became virtually
immobile, I removed them, soaked in kerosene, washed in soap and water, and
then air-dried. This was almost 10 years ago. The doors feel and sound like
new. I've done this with several vehicles mistakenly "lubricated" with WD40
since, with the same results.

If you haven't had similar results with WD40, then you have been very lucky.
webpa

"WEBPA" wrote in message
...

| I've cleaned dozens of pots, switches, and tuners (consumer parts and
aerospace
| parts) with WD40 (20 years ago). Stopped instantly when some of the parts
| began disintegrating, and others failed due to the goo (wax) left behind
after
| the solvents evaporated.
|
| I also used to use WD40 to lubricate automotive parts...such as door
hinges and
| latch/lock (not cylinders) mechanisms. Again, after a period of time, the
goo
| build-up became horrendous, and the goo seems to be the world's most
perfect
| dust/dirt attractor. After my truck's door latch mechanisms became
virtually
| immobile, I removed them, soaked in kerosene, washed in soap and water,
and
| then air-dried. This was almost 10 years ago. The doors feel and sound
like
| new. I've done this with several vehicles mistakenly "lubricated" with
WD40
| since, with the same results.
|
| If you haven't had similar results with WD40, then you have been very
lucky.

If you can find 2-22 you'll find it works well. Otherwise I would use tuner
cleaner, even the Radio Shack stuff. WD-40 is OK on rusty tractors and gate
hinges.

N

On 29 Oct 2004 21:55:33 GMT, (WEBPA) wrote:

WD40 is a wax disssolved in a mixture of solvents. It will eventually
dissolved the resistive material inside many pots...thus permanently
destroying
the part.

This has always been a unsubstantiated rumor in my opinion, others can
disagree, mostly people that have never even used WD40, just read about the
problems and relaying the rumors that have little fact.
I'll tell my experience. Way back in 1978 when I started in the business we
used WD40, never ever hurt a thing, then used commercial tunerwash, never
hurt
a thing, then when CFCs were taken out of tunerwash it was suddenly very
risky
to use because it would desolve certain plastics ruining parts. We went back
to
WD40 which I still use today although rarely do pots come into the picture
with
newer equipment.
So in summary, I've cleaned many thousand pots and tuners with WD40 and I'd
recommend it.


I've cleaned dozens of pots, switches, and tuners (consumer parts and aerospace
parts) with WD40 (20 years ago). Stopped instantly when some of the parts
began disintegrating, and others failed due to the goo (wax) left behind after
the solvents evaporated.

I also used to use WD40 to lubricate automotive parts...such as door hinges and
latch/lock (not cylinders) mechanisms. Again, after a period of time, the goo
build-up became horrendous, and the goo seems to be the world's most perfect
dust/dirt attractor. After my truck's door latch mechanisms became virtually
immobile, I removed them, soaked in kerosene, washed in soap and water, and
then air-dried. This was almost 10 years ago. The doors feel and sound like
new. I've done this with several vehicles mistakenly "lubricated" with WD40
since, with the same results.

If you haven't had similar results with WD40, then you have been very lucky.
webpa

my mother was going around the house every six months with wd40
spraying anything that turned. luv that gummy residue.

I sprayed with LPS and that was that.

WD-40 is suitable for use as a glaze breaker oil in lawn mower engines. Do
not use it on anything that you don't want dirty, dusty and gummy.

Oh yeah, it doesn't free frozen bolts either...

Kirk S.
joejoe wrote in message ...
On 29 Oct 2004 21:55:33 GMT, (WEBPA) wrote:

WD40 is a wax disssolved in a mixture of solvents. It will eventually
dissolved the resistive material inside many pots...thus permanently
destroying
the part.

This has always been a unsubstantiated rumor in my opinion, others can
disagree, mostly people that have never even used WD40, just read about
the
problems and relaying the rumors that have little fact.
I'll tell my experience. Way back in 1978 when I started in the business
we
used WD40, never ever hurt a thing, then used commercial tunerwash,
never
hurt
a thing, then when CFCs were taken out of tunerwash it was suddenly very
risky
to use because it would desolve certain plastics ruining parts. We went
back
to
WD40 which I still use today although rarely do pots come into the
picture
with
newer equipment.
So in summary, I've cleaned many thousand pots and tuners with WD40 and
I'd
recommend it.


I've cleaned dozens of pots, switches, and tuners (consumer parts and
aerospace
parts) with WD40 (20 years ago). Stopped instantly when some of the
parts
began disintegrating, and others failed due to the goo (wax) left behind
after
the solvents evaporated.

I also used to use WD40 to lubricate automotive parts...such as door
hinges and
latch/lock (not cylinders) mechanisms. Again, after a period of time,
the goo
build-up became horrendous, and the goo seems to be the world's most
perfect
dust/dirt attractor. After my truck's door latch mechanisms became
virtually
immobile, I removed them, soaked in kerosene, washed in soap and water,
and
then air-dried. This was almost 10 years ago. The doors feel and sound
like
new. I've done this with several vehicles mistakenly "lubricated" with
WD40
since, with the same results.

If you haven't had similar results with WD40, then you have been very
lucky.
webpa

my mother was going around the house every six months with wd40
spraying anything that turned. luv that gummy residue.

I sprayed with LPS and that was that.

On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 23:37:46 GMT, "Norm Dresner"
wrote:

Okay, SOS pads in the kitchen but what in the electronics lab?

TIA
Norm

Old time TV repair guy here.Worked in a TV shop in the 60's and now
repair vintage electronics of all kinds(*except* TV's....don't like
high voltages anymore!) in my home based shop.

Many contact cleaners work well.Some are ridiculously overpriced
because the field lends itself to what is called "perceived value
marketing" and so few people understand chemical terms.

Many TV shops used WD-40 on a regular basis.I tested it
***extensively*** and was unable to force it (even in purposely large
quantities)to cause any significant residue build up.
In conversations with the WD-40 people they agree that excessive use
is not desirable in electronics but unless you use it every few weeks
or so ,you won't get a waxy build up problem.Many old timer ham
operators use WD-40 also.No problems even at high frequencies.

CRC contact cleaner and even CRC brake drum cleaner will work and
leave no residue.
Deantured (not isopropyl medical) alcohol works fairly well.

No cause for alarm with WD-40 though in any normal amount of usage.

Some very high priced contact cleaners consist of refined olive oil
with a fancy sounding name(Oleac acid)and traces of surfacants and
lighter(naptha) fluid and can cost you $20.00 a can.I cannot break a
trust by giving the product name in that case as a friend plans to
market it under a different name.
Malcolm Leonard

wrote:
On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 23:37:46 GMT, "Norm Dresner"
wrote:

Okay, SOS pads in the kitchen but what in the electronics lab?

TIA
Norm

Old time TV repair guy here.Worked in a TV shop in the 60's and now
repair vintage electronics of all kinds(*except* TV's....don't like
high voltages anymore!) in my home based shop.

Many contact cleaners work well.Some are ridiculously overpriced
because the field lends itself to what is called "perceived value
marketing" and so few people understand chemical terms.

Many TV shops used WD-40 on a regular basis.I tested it
***extensively*** and was unable to force it (even in purposely large
quantities)to cause any significant residue build up.
In conversations with the WD-40 people they agree that excessive use
is not desirable in electronics but unless you use it every few weeks
or so ,you won't get a waxy build up problem.Many old timer ham
operators use WD-40 also.No problems even at high frequencies.

CRC contact cleaner and even CRC brake drum cleaner will work and
leave no residue.
Deantured (not isopropyl medical) alcohol works fairly well.

No cause for alarm with WD-40 though in any normal amount of usage.

Some very high priced contact cleaners consist of refined olive oil
with a fancy sounding name(Oleac acid)and traces of surfacants and
lighter(naptha) fluid and can cost you $20.00 a can.I cannot break a
trust by giving the product name in that case as a friend plans to
market it under a different name.
Malcolm Leonard

Caig De-Oxit for potentiometers and controls. It's believed by many techs
that WD-40 will degrade the carbon elements of potentiometers.

Mark Z.

You can find lots of praise for Caig products in the SER archives. I've
never been fond of flooding a pot or switch with an aerosol can.. I use a
small plastic bottle with a needle tip for the DeOxit liquid.
I started using the Caig products several decades ago, and they're so
effective that I haven't felt the need to try other products to see if
they're as good or better.

Flooding will generally wash away the original lubricant in the bushing of a
panel pot, and cause the adjustment to feel loose.

I've never been a fan of the WD40 product for any application, and
particularly not for any electro-mechanical application. I know that to a
lot of folks, it's a miracle in a can.

Cheers
WB
...............

wrote in message
...
Old time TV repair guy here.Worked in a TV shop in the 60's and now
repair vintage electronics of all kinds(*except* TV's....don't like
high voltages anymore!) in my home based shop.

Many contact cleaners work well.Some are ridiculously overpriced
because the field lends itself to what is called "perceived value
marketing" and so few people understand chemical terms.

Many TV shops used WD-40 on a regular basis.I tested it
***extensively*** and was unable to force it (even in purposely large
quantities)to cause any significant residue build up.
In conversations with the WD-40 people they agree that excessive use
is not desirable in electronics but unless you use it every few weeks
or so ,you won't get a waxy build up problem.Many old timer ham
operators use WD-40 also.No problems even at high frequencies.

CRC contact cleaner and even CRC brake drum cleaner will work and
leave no residue.
Deantured (not isopropyl medical) alcohol works fairly well.

No cause for alarm with WD-40 though in any normal amount of usage.

Some very high priced contact cleaners consist of refined olive oil
with a fancy sounding name(Oleac acid)and traces of surfacants and
lighter(naptha) fluid and can cost you $20.00 a can.I cannot break a
trust by giving the product name in that case as a friend plans to
market it under a different name.
Malcolm Leonard





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wrote in message
...

Old time TV repair guy here.Worked in a TV shop in the 60's and now
repair vintage electronics of all kinds(*except* TV's....don't like
high voltages anymore!) in my home based shop.

Older than you? We used to use carbon tet, then later trichloroethane. It's
a wonder my liver still works!

N

Me too - CRC contact cleaner always did the trick on pots and tuner
contacts

David

wrote:

Old time TV repair guy here.Worked in a TV shop in the 60's and