The model is a 27G22V, the chassis is APEDP280.
This set has had an intermittent vertical collapse/instability problem for
some time.
This only shows up cold. After 5 minutes it is stable and stays that way
until it is cold again.
It has been pretty consistent in always showing the problem.
A slight bump on the case will generally eliminate the problem for the
session.

I finally got a neighbor to help pull it out of the entertainment center.

I have been looking for a bad solder joint or other bit of flakiness.
Nothing shows up visually. I have inspected most of the solder side with a
magnifier. I have jiggled the leads going to the yoke. I have used an old
aligning tool to push, poke, prod and otherwise try to replicate the
problem.
Of course, everything works without a hitch

Since I have not had the need to get into the innards of a set since the
days of hybrids, I don't recognize circuits by their layout and component
mix. What is being used for the vertical amp/output device? I don't have a
cold spray and the heat gun seems like it is going the wrong way

Suggestions are solicited on what might be next. I hate to just button it up
and put it back without resolution.

Charlie

The first TV I ever worked on was a 7" Dumont that had a brute force HV
supply and electrostatic deflection.
..

start with resoldering the vertical output IC It is common for these
connections to crack and give that problem


"Charlie Bress" wrote in message
...
The model is a 27G22V, the chassis is APEDP280.
This set has had an intermittent vertical collapse/instability problem for
some time.
This only shows up cold. After 5 minutes it is stable and stays that way
until it is cold again.
It has been pretty consistent in always showing the problem.
A slight bump on the case will generally eliminate the problem for the
session.

I finally got a neighbor to help pull it out of the entertainment center.

I have been looking for a bad solder joint or other bit of flakiness.
Nothing shows up visually. I have inspected most of the solder side with a
magnifier. I have jiggled the leads going to the yoke. I have used an old
aligning tool to push, poke, prod and otherwise try to replicate the
problem.
Of course, everything works without a hitch

Since I have not had the need to get into the innards of a set since the
days of hybrids, I don't recognize circuits by their layout and component
mix. What is being used for the vertical amp/output device? I don't have
a
cold spray and the heat gun seems like it is going the wrong way

Suggestions are solicited on what might be next. I hate to just button it
up
and put it back without resolution.

Charlie

The first TV I ever worked on was a 7" Dumont that had a brute force HV
supply and electrostatic deflection.
.

With no board layout or schematic how can I id which device it is?
Is it on a heat sink? Typical pn's? I have the soldering iron, I have the
solder and the ability. What I need is a way of telling which device it is.

Charlie

"Lance Dyer" wrote in message
...
start with resoldering the vertical output IC It is common for these
connections to crack and give that problem


"Charlie Bress" wrote in message
...
The model is a 27G22V, the chassis is APEDP280.
This set has had an intermittent vertical collapse/instability problem
for
some time.
This only shows up cold. After 5 minutes it is stable and stays that way
until it is cold again.
It has been pretty consistent in always showing the problem.
A slight bump on the case will generally eliminate the problem for the
session.

I finally got a neighbor to help pull it out of the entertainment
center.

I have been looking for a bad solder joint or other bit of flakiness.
Nothing shows up visually. I have inspected most of the solder side with
a
magnifier. I have jiggled the leads going to the yoke. I have used an
old
aligning tool to push, poke, prod and otherwise try to replicate the
problem.
Of course, everything works without a hitch

Since I have not had the need to get into the innards of a set since the
days of hybrids, I don't recognize circuits by their layout and
component
mix. What is being used for the vertical amp/output device? I don't
have
a
cold spray and the heat gun seems like it is going the wrong way

Suggestions are solicited on what might be next. I hate to just button
it
up
and put it back without resolution.

Charlie

The first TV I ever worked on was a 7" Dumont that had a brute force HV
supply and electrostatic deflection.
.

In observation of how you are asking the questions, I think that if this is
a good TV, and is worth something to you, you should send it out to a
service centre and have it properly repaired. It may be a cold solder
connection, or a failing component. This is not something to be guessed at
or speculated about.

--

Jerry G.
==========================


"Charlie Bress" wrote in message
...
With no board layout or schematic how can I id which device it is?
Is it on a heat sink? Typical pn's? I have the soldering iron, I have the
solder and the ability. What I need is a way of telling which device it is.

Charlie

"Lance Dyer" wrote in message
...
start with resoldering the vertical output IC It is common for these
connections to crack and give that problem


"Charlie Bress" wrote in message
...
The model is a 27G22V, the chassis is APEDP280.
This set has had an intermittent vertical collapse/instability problem
for
some time.
This only shows up cold. After 5 minutes it is stable and stays that way
until it is cold again.
It has been pretty consistent in always showing the problem.
A slight bump on the case will generally eliminate the problem for the
session.

I finally got a neighbor to help pull it out of the entertainment
center.

I have been looking for a bad solder joint or other bit of flakiness.
Nothing shows up visually. I have inspected most of the solder side with
a
magnifier. I have jiggled the leads going to the yoke. I have used an
old
aligning tool to push, poke, prod and otherwise try to replicate the
problem.
Of course, everything works without a hitch

Since I have not had the need to get into the innards of a set since the
days of hybrids, I don't recognize circuits by their layout and
component
mix. What is being used for the vertical amp/output device? I don't
have
a
cold spray and the heat gun seems like it is going the wrong way

Suggestions are solicited on what might be next. I hate to just button
it
up
and put it back without resolution.

Charlie

The first TV I ever worked on was a 7" Dumont that had a brute force HV
supply and electrostatic deflection.
.

the vertical ic is usually labeled as IC 4-- on the board and should be a LA
7636 or similar label on the ic itself which is mounted on a heat sink
vertical yoke wires should be close by

"Charlie Bress" wrote in message
...
With no board layout or schematic how can I id which device it is?
Is it on a heat sink? Typical pn's? I have the soldering iron, I have the
solder and the ability. What I need is a way of telling which device it
is.

Charlie

"Lance Dyer" wrote in message
...
start with resoldering the vertical output IC It is common for these
connections to crack and give that problem


"Charlie Bress" wrote in message
...
The model is a 27G22V, the chassis is APEDP280.
This set has had an intermittent vertical collapse/instability problem
for
some time.
This only shows up cold. After 5 minutes it is stable and stays that
way
until it is cold again.
It has been pretty consistent in always showing the problem.
A slight bump on the case will generally eliminate the problem for the
session.

I finally got a neighbor to help pull it out of the entertainment
center.

I have been looking for a bad solder joint or other bit of flakiness.
Nothing shows up visually. I have inspected most of the solder side
with
a
magnifier. I have jiggled the leads going to the yoke. I have used an
old
aligning tool to push, poke, prod and otherwise try to replicate the
problem.
Of course, everything works without a hitch

Since I have not had the need to get into the innards of a set since
the
days of hybrids, I don't recognize circuits by their layout and
component
mix. What is being used for the vertical amp/output device? I don't
have
a
cold spray and the heat gun seems like it is going the wrong way

Suggestions are solicited on what might be next. I hate to just button
it
up
and put it back without resolution.

Charlie

The first TV I ever worked on was a 7" Dumont that had a brute force HV
supply and electrostatic deflection.
.

I tend to agree with Jerry G, having not seen the new chassis since
tube.transistor mix will definitely cause a severe limitation to your
ability to rectify this set yourself. Best to have an authorized servicer
repair it for you. However: if you do want to do this, get yourself the
appropriate service manual from Panasonic and have at it. Going in there
blind is only going to frustrate you with the inability to do this.
"Lance Dyer" wrote in message
...
the vertical ic is usually labeled as IC 4-- on the board and should be a
LA 7636 or similar label on the ic itself which is mounted on a heat sink
vertical yoke wires should be close by

"Charlie Bress" wrote in message
...
With no board layout or schematic how can I id which device it is?
Is it on a heat sink? Typical pn's? I have the soldering iron, I have the
solder and the ability. What I need is a way of telling which device it
is.

Charlie

"Lance Dyer" wrote in message
...
start with resoldering the vertical output IC It is common for these
connections to crack and give that problem


"Charlie Bress" wrote in message
...
The model is a 27G22V, the chassis is APEDP280.
This set has had an intermittent vertical collapse/instability problem
for
some time.
This only shows up cold. After 5 minutes it is stable and stays that
way
until it is cold again.
It has been pretty consistent in always showing the problem.
A slight bump on the case will generally eliminate the problem for the
session.

I finally got a neighbor to help pull it out of the entertainment
center.

I have been looking for a bad solder joint or other bit of flakiness.
Nothing shows up visually. I have inspected most of the solder side
with
a
magnifier. I have jiggled the leads going to the yoke. I have used an
old
aligning tool to push, poke, prod and otherwise try to replicate the
problem.
Of course, everything works without a hitch

Since I have not had the need to get into the innards of a set since
the
days of hybrids, I don't recognize circuits by their layout and
component
mix. What is being used for the vertical amp/output device? I don't
have
a
cold spray and the heat gun seems like it is going the wrong way

Suggestions are solicited on what might be next. I hate to just button
it
up
and put it back without resolution.

Charlie

The first TV I ever worked on was a 7" Dumont that had a brute force
HV
supply and electrostatic deflection.
.

C'mon guys, he said he had vertical collapse on a Panasonic 27G22 that was
affected by tapping on the set. He just needs to resolder the output IC and
the related parts. If that doesn't do it then he should take it in, but
these repairs are usually very routine.

Leonard

"Art" wrote in message
...
I tend to agree with Jerry G, having not seen the new chassis since
tube.transistor mix will definitely cause a severe limitation to your
ability to rectify this set yourself. Best to have an authorized servicer
repair it for you. However: if you do want to do this, get yourself the
appropriate service manual from Panasonic and have at it. Going in there
blind is only going to frustrate you with the inability to do this.
"Lance Dyer" wrote in message
...
the vertical ic is usually labeled as IC 4-- on the board and should be
a
LA 7636 or similar label on the ic itself which is mounted on a heat
sink
vertical yoke wires should be close by

"Charlie Bress" wrote in message
...
With no board layout or schematic how can I id which device it is?
Is it on a heat sink? Typical pn's? I have the soldering iron, I have
the
solder and the ability. What I need is a way of telling which device it
is.

Charlie

"Lance Dyer" wrote in message
...
start with resoldering the vertical output IC It is common for these
connections to crack and give that problem


"Charlie Bress" wrote in message
...
The model is a 27G22V, the chassis is APEDP280.
This set has had an intermittent vertical collapse/instability
problem
for
some time.
This only shows up cold. After 5 minutes it is stable and stays that
way
until it is cold again.
It has been pretty consistent in always showing the problem.
A slight bump on the case will generally eliminate the problem for
the
session.

I finally got a neighbor to help pull it out of the entertainment
center.

I have been looking for a bad solder joint or other bit of
flakiness.
Nothing shows up visually. I have inspected most of the solder side
with
a
magnifier. I have jiggled the leads going to the yoke. I have used
an
old
aligning tool to push, poke, prod and otherwise try to replicate the
problem.
Of course, everything works without a hitch

Since I have not had the need to get into the innards of a set since
the
days of hybrids, I don't recognize circuits by their layout and
component
mix. What is being used for the vertical amp/output device? I
don't
have
a
cold spray and the heat gun seems like it is going the wrong way

Suggestions are solicited on what might be next. I hate to just
button
it
up
and put it back without resolution.

Charlie

The first TV I ever worked on was a 7" Dumont that had a brute force
HV
supply and electrostatic deflection.
.

Thanks to all for advice and opinions. Although my experience with the
latest designs in television circuitry is pretty slim as you have all noted,
my focus over most of the last fifty decades has been with the
semiconductor and personal computer industries. Lance's description gave me
the information that I needed to look at the board and pick out the only
device that fit his description. So I will take my ancient soldering iron
and carefully reflow the connections to this device. I was happy to see that
it is a pth configuration and not smt.

Charlie


"Art" wrote in message
...
I tend to agree with Jerry G, having not seen the new chassis since
tube.transistor mix will definitely cause a severe limitation to your
ability to rectify this set yourself. Best to have an authorized servicer
repair it for you. However: if you do want to do this, get yourself the
appropriate service manual from Panasonic and have at it. Going in there
blind is only going to frustrate you with the inability to do this.
"Lance Dyer" wrote in message
...
the vertical ic is usually labeled as IC 4-- on the board and should be
a
LA 7636 or similar label on the ic itself which is mounted on a heat
sink
vertical yoke wires should be close by

"Charlie Bress" wrote in message
...
With no board layout or schematic how can I id which device it is?
Is it on a heat sink? Typical pn's? I have the soldering iron, I have
the
solder and the ability. What I need is a way of telling which device it
is.

Charlie

"Lance Dyer" wrote in message
...
start with resoldering the vertical output IC It is common for these
connections to crack and give that problem


"Charlie Bress" wrote in message
...
The model is a 27G22V, the chassis is APEDP280.
This set has had an intermittent vertical collapse/instability
problem
for
some time.
This only shows up cold. After 5 minutes it is stable and stays that
way
until it is cold again.
It has been pretty consistent in always showing the problem.
A slight bump on the case will generally eliminate the problem for
the
session.

I finally got a neighbor to help pull it out of the entertainment
center.

I have been looking for a bad solder joint or other bit of
flakiness.
Nothing shows up visually. I have inspected most of the solder side
with
a
magnifier. I have jiggled the leads going to the yoke. I have used
an
old
aligning tool to push, poke, prod and otherwise try to replicate the
problem.
Of course, everything works without a hitch

Since I have not had the need to get into the innards of a set since
the
days of hybrids, I don't recognize circuits by their layout and
component
mix. What is being used for the vertical amp/output device? I
don't
have
a
cold spray and the heat gun seems like it is going the wrong way

Suggestions are solicited on what might be next. I hate to just
button
it
up
and put it back without resolution.

Charlie

The first TV I ever worked on was a 7" Dumont that had a brute force
HV
supply and electrostatic deflection.
.

Hi Charlie,

You could send me the list of all multi pins IC"s mounted on a
heat sink.I will tell you which one is the culprit.

After all pins have been well resoldered , use a DMM to be sure there
is no short circuit between any pins. (buzzer test)

Let us */suppose/ *that your vertical IC is numbered IC301.Then you
should also replace all

electrolytic capacitors whose first *number* begin with a 3
(C301,C302,C303,etc.).Your vertical IC should have

at least 12-15 pins (LA7636 or LA7637 or LA7638 or .............)

Let me know about the results.

Jacques

Thanks, Leonard. On so many repair newsgroups the people who know how have
as a standard answer "take it to a pro". I think that before that answer is
casually tossed out one must consider the way the problem is posed to
consider if the party asking has a reasonable chance of success.
I often lurk in this newsgroup as it is a learning experience and a way of
keeping up with the rest of the world.

Charlie

"Leonard Caillouet" wrote in message
news:qOy4d.33572$aW5.10889@fed1read07...
C'mon guys, he said he had vertical collapse on a Panasonic 27G22 that was
affected by tapping on the set. He just needs to resolder the output IC
and
the related parts. If that doesn't do it then he should take it in, but
these repairs are usually very routine.

Leonard

Charlie Bress:
The vertical deflection circuitry will usually be somewhat near the
horizontal deflection circuitry. You can follow the deflection yoke wires
from the yoke connector and to the area of the circuit board you should be
looking at. Usually the horizontal deflection yoke uses blue and red
(sometimes gray) wires and the vertical deflection yoke will usually use
yellow and green wires.
If you can not find the vertical deflection circuitry with the above hints I
think you might be over your head on this one... then even with a schematic
you will not likely find what you are looking for. The schematic is only
most useful to technically qualified techs who can locate and fix many
problems like the one you describe WITHOUT the schematic or board layout.
This is not usually a very involved repair at most shops and the repair cost
should make this a worthwhile repair. At the very least you should TAKE it
to a repair shop for a repair cost estimate so you can make an intelligent
repair decision with facts instead of internet or telephone wild guesses.
Without a tech actually getting into the television with test instrument
there is NO WAY to know for certain what will be involved in the repair of
your television..... TAKE it to a qualified tech.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Charlie Bress" wrote in message
...
With no board layout or schematic how can I id which device it is?
Is it on a heat sink? Typical pn's? I have the soldering iron, I have the
solder and the ability. What I need is a way of telling which device it
is.

Charlie

"Lance Dyer" wrote in message
...
start with resoldering the vertical output IC It is common for these
connections to crack and give that problem


"Charlie Bress" wrote in message
...
The model is a 27G22V, the chassis is APEDP280.
This set has had an intermittent vertical collapse/instability problem
for
some time.
This only shows up cold. After 5 minutes it is stable and stays that
way
until it is cold again.
It has been pretty consistent in always showing the problem.
A slight bump on the case will generally eliminate the problem for the
session.

I finally got a neighbor to help pull it out of the entertainment
center.

I have been looking for a bad solder joint or other bit of flakiness.
Nothing shows up visually. I have inspected most of the solder side
with
a
magnifier. I have jiggled the leads going to the yoke. I have used an
old
aligning tool to push, poke, prod and otherwise try to replicate the
problem.
Of course, everything works without a hitch

Since I have not had the need to get into the innards of a set since
the
days of hybrids, I don't recognize circuits by their layout and
component
mix. What is being used for the vertical amp/output device? I don't
have
a
cold spray and the heat gun seems like it is going the wrong way

Suggestions are solicited on what might be next. I hate to just button
it
up
and put it back without resolution.

Charlie

The first TV I ever worked on was a 7" Dumont that had a brute force
HV
supply and electrostatic deflection.
.

"Jacques Carrier" wrote in message
om...
Hi Charlie,

You could send me the list of all multi pins IC"s mounted on a
heat sink.I will tell you which one is the culprit.

After all pins have been well resoldered , use a DMM to be sure there
is no short circuit between any pins. (buzzer test)

Let us */suppose/ *that your vertical IC is numbered IC301.Then you
should also replace all

electrolytic capacitors whose first *number* begin with a 3
(C301,C302,C303,etc.).Your vertical IC should have

at least 12-15 pins (LA7636 or LA7637 or LA7638 or .............)

Let me know about the results.

Jacques

There was only one multipin IC mounted on a heat sink. There was only one
pin that did not have a good looking shiny solder fillet. I cold not see a
crack with my little magnifier, but this solder joint was malformed and
grainy- an obvious suspect joint.
Reflowing the solder with a touch of a bit more produced a better looking
joint. This joint showed solid continuity with an ohmmeter.
I did not go through the exercise of checking all the associated components
as the symptom that a little percussive maintenance was effective did not
lead me to change caps etc. and all other solder joints in the area looked
good.

The hardest parts of this repair were getting the cabinet back together and
getting the wiring hooked up in an entertainment center that is too heavy to
move. Whatever would we do without wire coat hangers?

The first couple of power-ons gave a nice stable picture.
So thanks again to all for their help.

Charlie

"Charlie Bress" bravely wrote to "All" (23 Sep 04 08:46:37)
--- on the heady topic of " Panasonic tv vertical sweep"

CB Reply-To: "Charlie Bress" cbress(at)comcast.net
CB Thanks to all for advice and opinions. Although my experience with the
CB latest designs in television circuitry is pretty slim as you have all
CB noted, my focus over most of the last fifty decades has been with the
CB semiconductor and personal computer industries. Lance's description
CB gave me the information that I needed to look at the board and pick out
CB the only device that fit his description. So I will take my ancient
CB soldering iron and carefully reflow the connections to this device. I
CB was happy to see that it is a pth configuration and not smt.

CB Charlie

Well, modern tv design has become much more integrated into very large
scale IC's (VLSI). Basically you find integrated functions of a tuner,
an audio processor/output, a microcontroller, a video processor, a
vertical output. Only the horizontal output and deflection is still
mostly discrete but these are under direct control of the
microcontroller. TV's are mostly empty space inside as nearly everything
can fit on a single small board including the power supply regulator.
The rat's nest of wires, pcb modules with myriad jumpers, and countless
adjustment pots are a thing of the past and a good thing too! This means
tv's consume a lot less power and the computer control means nearly
perfect images even as the tube ages. The savings in materials also mean
a large reduction in price to the point where repairing tv's is
basically unprofitable except for high end projection models and the
latest hdtv technology to some extent.

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... That was a fascinating period of time for electronics

On Wed, 22 Sep 2004 22:54:19 -0600, "Lance Dyer"
put finger to keyboard and composed:

the vertical ic is usually labeled as IC 4-- on the board and should be a LA
7636 or similar label on the ic itself which is mounted on a heat sink
vertical yoke wires should be close by

AFAIK, the LA prefix is most often used by Sanyo. Even though I have
no experience with this particular set, I suspect the vertical IC may
have an AN prefix, and will probably be a Matsu****a part.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

Well, first of all it is fixed..

Secondly, if you carefully read what you wrote, it makes me wonder about the
clarity of your thinking. If I were to take the set to a shop, it sure
wouldn't be yours.


The schematic is only
most useful to technically qualified techs who can locate and fix many
problems like the one you describe WITHOUT the schematic or board layout.

Lots of generalizations, Asimov. They don't tell the whole story. They are
in some cases very much WRONG, like saying "nearly perfect images even as
the tube ages." The partial truth in your observations also adds nothing to
this guy's problem. We still fix most sets like his profitably, BTW.

Leonard



"Asimov" wrote in message
...
Well, modern tv design has become much more integrated into very large
scale IC's (VLSI). Basically you find integrated functions of a tuner,
an audio processor/output, a microcontroller, a video processor, a
vertical output. Only the horizontal output and deflection is still
mostly discrete but these are under direct control of the
microcontroller. TV's are mostly empty space inside as nearly everything
can fit on a single small board including the power supply regulator.
The rat's nest of wires, pcb modules with myriad jumpers, and countless
adjustment pots are a thing of the past and a good thing too! This means
tv's consume a lot less power and the computer control means nearly
perfect images even as the tube ages. The savings in materials also mean
a large reduction in price to the point where repairing tv's is
basically unprofitable except for high end projection models and the
latest hdtv technology to some extent.

A*s*i*m*o*v

... That was a fascinating period of time for electronics

"Leonard Caillouet" bravely wrote to "All" (24 Sep 04 07:31:22)
--- on the heady topic of " Panasonic tv vertical sweep"

LC Reply-To: "Leonard Caillouet"

LC Lots of generalizations, Asimov. They don't tell the whole story.
LC They are in some cases very much WRONG, like saying "nearly perfect
LC images even as the tube ages." The partial truth in your observations
LC also adds nothing to this guy's problem. We still fix most sets like
LC his profitably, BTW.

Bah, everybody is a critic. Let's hear you tell it your way then...

A*s*i*m*o*v

.... [] - Please write your complaint legibly in that box.

I did tell it my way. I told the guy exactly how to fix his set and gave
you my clear opinion about your remarks.

Like I said, we fix most of these sets profitably. It is pretty rare to
have one that we cannot repair profitably at a cost that the consumer
accepts. True, much electronics these days are disposable, but the OP had a
27" Panasonic that is an example of a set that does get repaired most often
until they get much nearer the end of the units useful life.

Your statements were overgeneralizations that don't tell the whole story,
are overly pessimistic and did nothing to help the OP. I thought I was
pretty clear about it before, but since you needed clarification...there,
that is my way of telling it, again.

Leonard

"Asimov" wrote in message
...
"Leonard Caillouet" bravely wrote to "All" (24 Sep 04 07:31:22)
--- on the heady topic of " Panasonic tv vertical sweep"

LC Reply-To: "Leonard Caillouet"

LC Lots of generalizations, Asimov. They don't tell the whole story.
LC They are in some cases very much WRONG, like saying "nearly perfect
LC images even as the tube ages." The partial truth in your
observations
LC also adds nothing to this guy's problem. We still fix most sets like
LC his profitably, BTW.

Bah, everybody is a critic. Let's hear you tell it your way then...

A*s*i*m*o*v

... [] - Please write your complaint legibly in that box.

"Leonard Caillouet" bravely wrote to "All" (25 Sep 04 08:29:13)
--- on the heady topic of " Panasonic tv vertical sweep"

LC Reply-To: "Leonard Caillouet"

LC I did tell it my way. I told the guy exactly how to fix his set and
LC gave you my clear opinion about your remarks.

LC Like I said, we fix most of these sets profitably. It is pretty rare
LC to have one that we cannot repair profitably at a cost that the
LC consumer accepts. True, much electronics these days are disposable,
LC but the OP had a 27" Panasonic that is an example of a set that does
LC get repaired most often until they get much nearer the end of the units
LC useful life.
LC Your statements were overgeneralizations that don't tell the whole
LC story, are overly pessimistic and did nothing to help the OP. I
LC thought I was pretty clear about it before, but since you needed
LC clarification...there, that is my way of telling it, again.

When I answered the original query, I was aware he already had the right
fix: I now assume it was you who helped him. However he also expressed
the state of mind of not being aware of what more modern tv's were like.
Nobody answered his concern so I simplified, perhaps oversimplified, by
your opinion, but at least he got a reply about it. Your present
criticism doesn't offer any more information either. Perhaps you feel
slighted or I overstepped your authority in the matter, so please you
tell him properly now, okay?

A*s*i*m*o*v