Got this set in the other day, model CS-28EX1C. This is a 26" set from
'93. It came in dead, and once I got it going (replaced the STR regulator)
it was apparent there were other problems. There was some raster shrinkage
at the top, and the whole picture - though very clear - has wavy edges -
frills, I guess - on bright objects such as letters. Kind of like looking at
your reflection on a ripply pond. As I started checking caps in the vertical
output, it also became apparent that the set would not be an easy fix. Seems
this is one of those infamous Mitsubishi's with the caps that leak not only
internally, but physically as well. I replaced a bunch of these in the
vertical output, that fixed the shrunk picture but that was it. It appears
that almost EVERY SINGLE CAP IN THE SET has started to physically leak or at
least gone up in ESR. One section, a plug-in module labeled PIP-C
(picture-in-picture?), looks particularly daunting; it contains 19
SURFACE-MOUNT caps and EVERY ONE appears to be spilling electrolyte.
I guess my question is this; should I even bother trying to replace all
the surface-mount caps, or is that board not essential to the operation of
the set? I suspect the problem with wavy edges may be caps in the comb
filter, but I'm not certain. I told the customer that I may have to replace
as many as 40 or 50 parts (caps) before the set could work reliably,
needless to say he doesn't feel like putting that much money into it. Even
if he lets me keep the set though, I'd still like to fix it for resale.
One final question: the regulator unit (STR3130) has been replaced on two
separate occasions. I know because I serviced the set both times, when it
belonged to a previous owner. The last one held up for about 2 years before
shorting. Could there be an underlying problem, or is it simply poor design?
A 1-amp STR regulator seems a bit small for a 26" stereo set if you ask
me.....
Much thanks for any advice.

Problem is you have just encountered a typical repair on these sets. Seen
too many with numerous failed or leaky electrolytics. Only fix is to replace
the defecive caps, clean the debris from the boards while doing that
process, and look closely for any damaged traces from the electrolyte. Can
become a rather challenging task!!
"Chris F." wrote in message
...
Got this set in the other day, model CS-28EX1C. This is a 26" set from
'93. It came in dead, and once I got it going (replaced the STR regulator)
it was apparent there were other problems. There was some raster shrinkage
at the top, and the whole picture - though very clear - has wavy edges -
frills, I guess - on bright objects such as letters. Kind of like looking
at
your reflection on a ripply pond. As I started checking caps in the
vertical
output, it also became apparent that the set would not be an easy fix.
Seems
this is one of those infamous Mitsubishi's with the caps that leak not
only
internally, but physically as well. I replaced a bunch of these in the
vertical output, that fixed the shrunk picture but that was it. It appears
that almost EVERY SINGLE CAP IN THE SET has started to physically leak or
at
least gone up in ESR. One section, a plug-in module labeled PIP-C
(picture-in-picture?), looks particularly daunting; it contains 19
SURFACE-MOUNT caps and EVERY ONE appears to be spilling electrolyte.
I guess my question is this; should I even bother trying to replace all
the surface-mount caps, or is that board not essential to the operation of
the set? I suspect the problem with wavy edges may be caps in the comb
filter, but I'm not certain. I told the customer that I may have to
replace
as many as 40 or 50 parts (caps) before the set could work reliably,
needless to say he doesn't feel like putting that much money into it. Even
if he lets me keep the set though, I'd still like to fix it for resale.
One final question: the regulator unit (STR3130) has been replaced on two
separate occasions. I know because I serviced the set both times, when it
belonged to a previous owner. The last one held up for about 2 years
before
shorting. Could there be an underlying problem, or is it simply poor
design?
A 1-amp STR regulator seems a bit small for a 26" stereo set if you ask
me.....
Much thanks for any advice.

One section, a plug-in module labeled PIP-C
(picture-in-picture?), looks particularly daunting; it contains 19
SURFACE-MOUNT caps and EVERY ONE appears to be spilling electrolyte.
I guess my question is this; should I even bother trying to replace all
the surface-mount caps, or is that board not essential to the operation of
the set? I suspect the problem with wavy edges may be caps in the comb
filter, but I'm not certain.


There is a way to bypass the PIP board. I can't tell you how, but I
know this has been covered before. Do a search on google groups and
you should be able to find detailed instructions.

Andy Cuffe

The regulator failure was due to not completing the whole repair the last
couple of times. Capacitor problems are the cause of the regulator
failure. Do not forget to double check the regulator bypass resistor to
see if it has increased in value or opened up.

Welcome to the world of just about every Mitz set from that era, mass
capacitor replacement is required for a proper long term repair. Most
people are not willing to put the kind of money into the set for a good
repair after 7 or so years.

David

"Chris F." wrote in message
...
Got this set in the other day, model CS-28EX1C. This is a 26" set from
'93. It came in dead, and once I got it going (replaced the STR regulator)
it was apparent there were other problems. There was some raster shrinkage
at the top, and the whole picture - though very clear - has wavy edges -
frills, I guess - on bright objects such as letters. Kind of like looking
at
your reflection on a ripply pond. As I started checking caps in the
vertical
output, it also became apparent that the set would not be an easy fix.
Seems
this is one of those infamous Mitsubishi's with the caps that leak not
only
internally, but physically as well. I replaced a bunch of these in the
vertical output, that fixed the shrunk picture but that was it. It appears
that almost EVERY SINGLE CAP IN THE SET has started to physically leak or
at
least gone up in ESR. One section, a plug-in module labeled PIP-C
(picture-in-picture?), looks particularly daunting; it contains 19
SURFACE-MOUNT caps and EVERY ONE appears to be spilling electrolyte.
I guess my question is this; should I even bother trying to replace all
the surface-mount caps, or is that board not essential to the operation of
the set? I suspect the problem with wavy edges may be caps in the comb
filter, but I'm not certain. I told the customer that I may have to
replace
as many as 40 or 50 parts (caps) before the set could work reliably,
needless to say he doesn't feel like putting that much money into it. Even
if he lets me keep the set though, I'd still like to fix it for resale.
One final question: the regulator unit (STR3130) has been replaced on
two
separate occasions. I know because I serviced the set both times, when it
belonged to a previous owner. The last one held up for about 2 years
before
shorting. Could there be an underlying problem, or is it simply poor
design?
A 1-amp STR regulator seems a bit small for a 26" stereo set if you ask
me.....
Much thanks for any advice.

Remove the pip board and put a 4.7ufd cap from pin 5 to 11 on the connector
toward the rear of the set. That will bypass the video and the board will
not be needed.

On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 22:42:35 GMT, "Chris F."
put finger to keyboard and composed:

Got this set in the other day, model CS-28EX1C. This is a 26" set from
'93. It came in dead, and once I got it going (replaced the STR regulator)
it was apparent there were other problems. There was some raster shrinkage
at the top, and the whole picture - though very clear - has wavy edges -
frills, I guess - on bright objects such as letters. Kind of like looking at
your reflection on a ripply pond. As I started checking caps in the vertical
output, it also became apparent that the set would not be an easy fix. Seems
this is one of those infamous Mitsubishi's with the caps that leak not only
internally, but physically as well. I replaced a bunch of these in the
vertical output, that fixed the shrunk picture but that was it. It appears
that almost EVERY SINGLE CAP IN THE SET has started to physically leak or at
least gone up in ESR.

That's sad. I have a 20 year old Mitsubishi set that has never failed,
and still has an excellent picture. What have Mitsubishi changed in
their later models? What brand of caps are they using in your set?


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

That's sad. I have a 20 year old Mitsubishi set that has never failed,
and still has an excellent picture. What have Mitsubishi changed in
their later models? What brand of caps are they using in your set?

Mitsubishi had used Rubycon caps, which is actually a surprise. - Reinhart

The Mitsubishi problems with leaky capacitors were mostly in the early 90s
and were polarized electrolytic radial mount caps supplied by Rubycon and
Nichicon. Somewhat later there were also the infamous PIP modules with the
surface mount caps that leaked, similar to the Sony sound modules used in
many brands of sets. We still repair most of the larger sets when the CRTs
are in good condition, but to get a reliable fix you have to inspect every
cap for leakage and test for ESR. Most of the sets have been very reliable
other than the capacitor problems. The big Mitsubishi CRTs in the direct
view sets have been some of the most reliable in the long term that anyone
ever supplied.

Fixing a 27-28" Mitsubishi set with leaky caps is rarely going to make sense
these days. These sets were nothing special, not bad, but typically not
significantly better than other products of their day. Some of the CRTs
were actually rather poor, unlike the very high quality of the larger ones
and the RPTV tubes.

Leonard

"Franc Zabkar" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 22:42:35 GMT, "Chris F."
put finger to keyboard and composed:

Got this set in the other day, model CS-28EX1C. This is a 26" set from
'93. It came in dead, and once I got it going (replaced the STR
regulator)
it was apparent there were other problems. There was some raster
shrinkage
at the top, and the whole picture - though very clear - has wavy edges -
frills, I guess - on bright objects such as letters. Kind of like looking
at
your reflection on a ripply pond. As I started checking caps in the
vertical
output, it also became apparent that the set would not be an easy fix.
Seems
this is one of those infamous Mitsubishi's with the caps that leak not
only
internally, but physically as well. I replaced a bunch of these in the
vertical output, that fixed the shrunk picture but that was it. It
appears
that almost EVERY SINGLE CAP IN THE SET has started to physically leak or
at
least gone up in ESR.

That's sad. I have a 20 year old Mitsubishi set that has never failed,
and still has an excellent picture. What have Mitsubishi changed in
their later models? What brand of caps are they using in your set?


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

It's strange, I see Rubycon and Nichicon caps in many other brands of sets,
but they only seem to (physically) leak in Mitsubishu TV's / VCR's. Maybe
these were all part of one bad lot??

"Leonard Caillouet" wrote in message
news:gQCYc.16693$bT1.784@fed1read07...
The Mitsubishi problems with leaky capacitors were mostly in the early 90s
and were polarized electrolytic radial mount caps supplied by Rubycon and
Nichicon. Somewhat later there were also the infamous PIP modules with
the
surface mount caps that leaked, similar to the Sony sound modules used in
many brands of sets. We still repair most of the larger sets when the
CRTs
are in good condition, but to get a reliable fix you have to inspect every
cap for leakage and test for ESR. Most of the sets have been very
reliable
other than the capacitor problems. The big Mitsubishi CRTs in the direct
view sets have been some of the most reliable in the long term that anyone
ever supplied.

Fixing a 27-28" Mitsubishi set with leaky caps is rarely going to make
sense
these days. These sets were nothing special, not bad, but typically not
significantly better than other products of their day. Some of the CRTs
were actually rather poor, unlike the very high quality of the larger ones
and the RPTV tubes.

Leonard

"Franc Zabkar" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 22:42:35 GMT, "Chris F."
put finger to keyboard and composed:

Got this set in the other day, model CS-28EX1C. This is a 26" set
from
'93. It came in dead, and once I got it going (replaced the STR
regulator)
it was apparent there were other problems. There was some raster
shrinkage
at the top, and the whole picture - though very clear - has wavy
edges -
frills, I guess - on bright objects such as letters. Kind of like
looking
at
your reflection on a ripply pond. As I started checking caps in the
vertical
output, it also became apparent that the set would not be an easy fix.
Seems
this is one of those infamous Mitsubishi's with the caps that leak not
only
internally, but physically as well. I replaced a bunch of these in the
vertical output, that fixed the shrunk picture but that was it. It
appears
that almost EVERY SINGLE CAP IN THE SET has started to physically leak
or
at
least gone up in ESR.

That's sad. I have a 20 year old Mitsubishi set that has never failed,
and still has an excellent picture. What have Mitsubishi changed in
their later models? What brand of caps are they using in your set?


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 05:08:56 -0400, "Leonard Caillouet"
put finger to keyboard and composed:

The Mitsubishi problems with leaky capacitors were mostly in the early 90s
and were polarized electrolytic radial mount caps supplied by Rubycon and
Nichicon. Somewhat later there were also the infamous PIP modules with the
surface mount caps that leaked, similar to the Sony sound modules used in
many brands of sets. We still repair most of the larger sets when the CRTs
are in good condition, but to get a reliable fix you have to inspect every
cap for leakage and test for ESR. Most of the sets have been very reliable
other than the capacitor problems. The big Mitsubishi CRTs in the direct
view sets have been some of the most reliable in the long term that anyone
ever supplied.

Fixing a 27-28" Mitsubishi set with leaky caps is rarely going to make sense
these days. These sets were nothing special, not bad, but typically not
significantly better than other products of their day. Some of the CRTs
were actually rather poor, unlike the very high quality of the larger ones
and the RPTV tubes.

Leonard

I don't recall any consistently bad experiences with either Rubycon or
Nichicon capacitors in any appliance. In any case, it seems strange
that *both* brands of cap would cause problems for the one
manufacturer. I'm not surprised about the smt caps, though.

In Australia Mitsubishi TVs and VCRs were rebadged by AWA. I've only
ever worked on the older TVs, but these invariably had excellent CRTs.
I also don't recall ever having changed a Mitsubishi flyback
transformer (except once in error).


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

My guess is that they were sold some counterfeits by some supplier.

Leonard

"Franc Zabkar" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 30 Aug 2004 05:08:56 -0400, "Leonard Caillouet"
put finger to keyboard and composed:

The Mitsubishi problems with leaky capacitors were mostly in the early
90s
and were polarized electrolytic radial mount caps supplied by Rubycon and
Nichicon. Somewhat later there were also the infamous PIP modules with
the
surface mount caps that leaked, similar to the Sony sound modules used in
many brands of sets. We still repair most of the larger sets when the
CRTs
are in good condition, but to get a reliable fix you have to inspect
every
cap for leakage and test for ESR. Most of the sets have been very
reliable
other than the capacitor problems. The big Mitsubishi CRTs in the direct
view sets have been some of the most reliable in the long term that
anyone
ever supplied.

Fixing a 27-28" Mitsubishi set with leaky caps is rarely going to make
sense
these days. These sets were nothing special, not bad, but typically not
significantly better than other products of their day. Some of the CRTs
were actually rather poor, unlike the very high quality of the larger
ones
and the RPTV tubes.

Leonard

I don't recall any consistently bad experiences with either Rubycon or
Nichicon capacitors in any appliance. In any case, it seems strange
that *both* brands of cap would cause problems for the one
manufacturer. I'm not surprised about the smt caps, though.

In Australia Mitsubishi TVs and VCRs were rebadged by AWA. I've only
ever worked on the older TVs, but these invariably had excellent CRTs.
I also don't recall ever having changed a Mitsubishi flyback
transformer (except once in error).


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.