"Chris F." wrote in message
...
Got this set in the other day, model CS-28EX1C. This is a 26" set from
'93. It came in dead, and once I got it going (replaced the STR regulator)
it was apparent there were other problems. There was some raster shrinkage
at the top, and the whole picture - though very clear - has wavy edges -
frills, I guess - on bright objects such as letters. Kind of like looking
at
your reflection on a ripply pond. As I started checking caps in the
vertical
output, it also became apparent that the set would not be an easy fix.
Seems
this is one of those infamous Mitsubishi's with the caps that leak not
only
internally, but physically as well. I replaced a bunch of these in the
vertical output, that fixed the shrunk picture but that was it. It appears
that almost EVERY SINGLE CAP IN THE SET has started to physically leak or
at
least gone up in ESR. One section, a plug-in module labeled PIP-C
(picture-in-picture?), looks particularly daunting; it contains 19
SURFACE-MOUNT caps and EVERY ONE appears to be spilling electrolyte.
I guess my question is this; should I even bother trying to replace all
the surface-mount caps, or is that board not essential to the operation of
the set? I suspect the problem with wavy edges may be caps in the comb
filter, but I'm not certain. I told the customer that I may have to
replace
as many as 40 or 50 parts (caps) before the set could work reliably,
needless to say he doesn't feel like putting that much money into it. Even
if he lets me keep the set though, I'd still like to fix it for resale.
One final question: the regulator unit (STR3130) has been replaced on
two
separate occasions. I know because I serviced the set both times, when it
belonged to a previous owner. The last one held up for about 2 years
before
shorting. Could there be an underlying problem, or is it simply poor
design?
A 1-amp STR regulator seems a bit small for a 26" stereo set if you ask
me.....
Much thanks for any advice.

Remove the pip board and put a 4.7ufd cap from pin 5 to 11 on the connector
toward the rear of the set. That will bypass the video and the board will
not be needed.