Luckily I had
purchased a few sets of the lovot blocks and other parts fron the
manufacturer when I bought the windowsn(I worked for the dealer) so I
was able to replace the swollen blocks. No amount of soaking in
alcohol or any othe substance was effective in returning the block to
the proper size. No idea what kind of plastic it was- but it sure
didn't like WD-40.

I've heard of certain materials that swell in the presence of oils. Maybe it wasn't the solvent in the
WD but the mineral oil it contains. IOW, any spray with mineral oil might have had the same effect.

According to the chart at

http://www.plasticsintl.com/plastics...nce_chart.html

mineral oil has a "C" compatibility rating for polycarbonate and
polypropylene ("Moderate attack of appreciable absorption. Material
will have limited life.")

For "Lubricating oils (petroleum)" HDPE also gets a "C" rating.

For "white spirit", the plastics listed are all either "A" (no attack,
possibly slight absorption, negigible effect on mechanical properties)
or "*" (no data available).

On Tue, 2 May 2017 08:39:44 +0100, Ian Jackson
wrote:

In message , John
Robertson writes
On 2017/05/01 1:24 PM, Wade Garrett wrote:
On 5/1/17 3:08 PM, Foxs Mercantile wrote:
On 5/1/2017 12:00 PM, Retired wrote:
According to WD-40's "List of 2000+ Uses" at
https://wd40.com/files/pdf/wd_40_200...d_jan_2017.pdf
"• Cleans gunk from electrical contacts" is one of them

And most of the 2000 ideas are marketing hype.


You're a regular party-pooper!


Having cleaned the residue (glue like substance) of WD-40 from many an
electrical unit I would say that it's only practical use is for
preventing rust on tools.

Everything else is hype.

There are FAR better solvents out there than WD-40...and cheaper!

Cheaper than the old can you've had in the tool-shed for the last 20
years, but which has been your saviour on the odd occasion when you've
suddenly needed a general-purpose lubricant / switch cleaner / rusty nut
freer / corrosion inhibitor ?

I think there are 3 topics you're not supposed to talk about at work
(since you have to continue to see those people): politics, religion,
and WD-40.

On 5/2/2017 1:34 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 11:57:29 AM UTC-4, wrote:
Luckily I had
purchased a few sets of the lovot blocks and other parts fron the
manufacturer when I bought the windowsn(I worked for the dealer) so I
was able to replace the swollen blocks. No amount of soaking in
alcohol or any othe substance was effective in returning the block to
the proper size. No idea what kind of plastic it was- but it sure
didn't like WD-40.

I've heard of certain materials that swell in the presence of oils. Maybe it wasn't the solvent in the WD but the mineral oil it contains. IOW, any spray with mineral oil might have had the same effect.

Does it really matter which component of WD-40 causes the problem or if
other products cause the same problem? The point is that WD-40 is not a
good product to use on electrical devices unless you know the materials
won't be affected by it.

Some people here are in denial about the issue and refuse to consider
that anything other than their own personal experience constitutes
reality. You seem a bit more reasonable.

--

Rick C

On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 5:22:46 PM UTC-4, rickman wrote:
On 5/2/2017 1:34 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 11:57:29 AM UTC-4, wrote:
Luckily I had
purchased a few sets of the lovot blocks and other parts fron the
manufacturer when I bought the windowsn(I worked for the dealer) so I
was able to replace the swollen blocks. No amount of soaking in
alcohol or any othe substance was effective in returning the block to
the proper size. No idea what kind of plastic it was- but it sure
didn't like WD-40.

I've heard of certain materials that swell in the presence of oils. Maybe it wasn't the solvent in the WD but the mineral oil it contains. IOW, any spray with mineral oil might have had the same effect.

Does it really matter which component of WD-40 causes the problem or if
other products cause the same problem?

For the purposes of the discussion, I think it does. If most spray elixirs use some sort of petroleum based oil that has a long term affect on certain plastics, then it's not fair to single out WD40 particularly. In any case, I don't recall any other spray solutions that use a synthetic lube that trumpet the fact that they are safe for all plastics. If WD had a known issue with plastics, someone (if not the WD folks) would surely step in with a fix product to steal the sales.


The point is that WD-40 is not a
good product to use on electrical devices unless you know the materials
won't be affected by it.


That's good advice for any external additive. I always test the material in question. Still, other than the fellow with the swollen window blocks (probably an interference fit as it was designed), I think WD-40 will have no affect on electrical connectors.



Some people here are in denial about the issue and refuse to consider
that anything other than their own personal experience constitutes
reality. You seem a bit more reasonable.



I don't even use the stuff...

On 02/05/17 21:43, Jeff Layman wrote:
On 02/05/17 12:16, wrote:
WD-40 is not designed to remove or protect against rust either.

From the link you quoted:
"Product Use: Lubricant, Penetrant, Drives Out
Moisture, Removes and Protects Surfaces
From Corrosion"

Why do you believe that "Removes and Protects Surfaces From Corrosion"
does not include removing or protecting against rust? From the Wikipedia
article on "Rust":
"Rusting is the common term for corrosion of iron and its alloys".

. It is
meant to *DISPLACE* dampness in the process of cleaning and
protecting tools *with something else*.

Try the test.

I have, many times. It just works.

Not hear, it doesn't. Very humid and warm, and any
unprotected tools repeatedly get surface rust, despite
treatment with WD-40. I must buy some proper anti-rust
spray, and use it after I've de-rusted everything in
the citric acid bath.

On 5/2/2017 5:36 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 5:22:46 PM UTC-4, rickman wrote:
On 5/2/2017 1:34 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 11:57:29 AM UTC-4,
wrote: Luckily I had
purchased a few sets of the lovot blocks and other parts fron
the manufacturer when I bought the windowsn(I worked for the
dealer) so I was able to replace the swollen blocks. No amount
of soaking in alcohol or any othe substance was effective in
returning the block to the proper size. No idea what kind of
plastic it was- but it sure didn't like WD-40.

I've heard of certain materials that swell in the presence of
oils. Maybe it wasn't the solvent in the WD but the mineral oil
it contains. IOW, any spray with mineral oil might have had the
same effect.

Does it really matter which component of WD-40 causes the problem
or if other products cause the same problem?

For the purposes of the discussion, I think it does. If most spray
elixirs use some sort of petroleum based oil that has a long term
affect on certain plastics, then it's not fair to single out WD40
particularly. In any case, I don't recall any other spray solutions
that use a synthetic lube that trumpet the fact that they are safe
for all plastics. If WD had a known issue with plastics, someone (if
not the WD folks) would surely step in with a fix product to steal
the sales.

I don't know what "fair" has to do with it. Someone suggested using
WD-40 as a contact cleaner and I as well as a couple others pointed out
it can cause problems. Others disputed this. Bottom line it WD-40 is
not safe to use without checking the materials in use. There are many
products that are specifically intended as contact cleaners which don't
cause these problems.


The point is that WD-40 is not a
good product to use on electrical devices unless you know the
materials won't be affected by it.


That's good advice for any external additive.

Exactly. Some here have said WD-40 is universally safe to use when it
is not.


I always test the
material in question.

How exactly do you do that without using it on the product in question?


Still, other than the fellow with the swollen
window blocks (probably an interference fit as it was designed), I
think WD-40 will have no affect on electrical connectors.

I can't say that universally. As I mentioned, a friend used it on an
expensive piece of chemical instrumentation and it froze the controls.
I guess if the problem is caused by swelling the material and the
connector has a very loose fit, it might not cause a problem. But why
take the chance when there are other products that just plain *won't*
cause a problem?


Some people here are in denial about the issue and refuse to
consider that anything other than their own personal experience
constitutes reality. You seem a bit more reasonable.



I don't even use the stuff...



--

Rick C

Peter ****wit wrote:


WD-40 is not designed to remove or protect against rust either.



** IME it does both and it say so on the can too.



WD-40 is neither voodoo, black magic nor a secret potion.


** Wot an idiot "straw man" to bring up.

Proves you know **** all about the many uses of WD40.



...... Phil

Peter ****wit wrote:


Stoddard solvent is aka white spirit.



** Which is refined petrol, aka lighter fluid.



The MSDS for WD-40 is posted previously.


** Irrelevant.

The WD40 company regularly changes the terminology used.

It used to say it was mostly naptha.

The hydrocarbon propellant was changed to CO2, a couple of decades back.

Maybe that explains Global Warming....


..... Phil

Dave Platt wrote:


According to the chart at

http://www.plasticsintl.com/plastics...nce_chart.html


** Irrelevant - cos charts like that are based on long term contact.

The solvents in WD40 **vanish** after a short time leaving only mineral oil behind.

Do you own tests and you will see nothing happens.

BTW: you are being a PITA troll.


..... Phil

Prickman the Liar wrote:




Does it really matter which component of WD-40 causes the problem


** There simply is NO problem.

You bull****ting IDIOT !!!!!



Some people here are in denial about the issue and refuse to consider
that anything other than their own personal experience constitutes
reality.


** They are the sane people.

You are a deluded idiot.





...... Phil

Prickman is a damn LIAR wrote:

-----------------------------

Someone suggested using
WD-40 as a contact cleaner and I as well as a couple others pointed out
it can cause problems.



** Massive LIE.

It is simply not possible to "point out" a non-existent problem.

You are PF are clueless mental retards who post nothing but BULLL****.



Others disputed this.

** Yeah - all the sane ones here.


Bottom line it WD-40 is
not safe to use without checking the materials in use.


** Insane, absurd, ****ing crazy BULL**** !!!


There are many
products that are specifically intended as contact cleaners which don't
cause these problems.


** MASSIVE LIE !!!!

There are no such products cos there is no such problem.

The term "contact cleaner" is not clearly defined - products just like WD-40 can be called that name.

If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or intermittent switches and the like.

To do that job requires a good grease solvent that lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface protection.

FFS ** **** OFF ** - you WD40 hating LUNATIC !!!



..... Phil

On 5/2/2017 10:48 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves
no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or
intermittent switches and the like.

To do that job requires a good grease solvent that
lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface
protection.

This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.

The only things I use WD-40 for a
1. Hosing a distributor cap and ignition wiring after it's
gotten wet. I used to do this regularly with a '65 Dodge
Slant-six engine.
2. Removing labels from equipment and the adhesive residue.
3. Occasionally spraying to the of my table saw. (It's cast
iron.)
4. Using it instead of ether as a spray starter for 2-cycle
engines. (Like chain saws and the like.) Although I think
they stopped using propane as a propellant.


--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com

Foxs Mercantile wrote:

Phil Allison wrote:

If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves
no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or
intermittent switches and the like.

To do that job requires a good grease solvent that
lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface
protection.

This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.


** You must be a raving nut case.




..... Phil

On 5/3/2017 1:20 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
Foxs Mercantile wrote:

Phil Allison wrote:

If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves
no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or
intermittent switches and the like.

To do that job requires a good grease solvent that
lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface
protection.

This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.


** You must be a raving nut case.

Well thank you Phil.
I just stated what I use.
I do it because it works.



--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com

In message , Foxs Mercantile
writes
On 5/3/2017 1:20 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
Foxs Mercantile wrote:

Phil Allison wrote:

If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves
no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or
intermittent switches and the like.

To do that job requires a good grease solvent that
lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface
protection.

This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.


** You must be a raving nut case.

Well thank you Phil.
I just stated what I use.
I do it because it works.

You are obviously the sort of person who believes in do things
thoroughly, and using the right tool for the job.

I can understand this if your doing it professionally, or if it's the
sort of thing you find you need to quite often - but are you convinced
that the end result is substantially better than a quick squirt of WD?




--
Ian

On 5/3/2017 4:47 AM, Ian Jackson wrote:
You are obviously the sort of person who believes in do things
thoroughly, and using the right tool for the job.

I can understand this if your doing it professionally, or if
it's the sort of thing you find you need to quite often - but
are you convinced that the end result is substantially better
than a quick squirt of WD?

As a professional, I don't like things coming back. Period.

As to using WD-40, some time ago, I acquired several 5-tube
table radios at an estate sale. Basically worthless, and with
all the usual age related issues you'd expect. I tried WD-40
on the volume controls. Yes it works (are you paying attention
Phil?)

I just don't feel comfortable using it.


--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com

---
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http://www.avg.com

Foxs Mercantile wrote:

Phil Allison wrote:

If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves
no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or
intermittent switches and the like.

To do that job requires a good grease solvent that
lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface
protection.

This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.


** You must be a raving nut case.

Well thank you Phil.


** No problem - exposing usenet fakes like you is a pleasure.


I just stated what I use.


** But nobody asked ....


I do it because it works.



** Same goes for everyone here.

But you have fallen, hook line and ****ing sinker for one of the sleaziest product scams out.

ANYTHING to do with "Caig" or "De-Oxit" is a 100% SCAM.

You are a "Mr Gullible" par excellence.

" It cost more - so it must be better " is your motto.

The motto of every ****wit alive or dead.

A word of advice:

FOAD you pathetic damn troll.



..... Phil

Ian Jackson wrote:

Foxs Mercantile


Phil Allison wrote:

If a spray can product evaporates in seconds and leaves
no oily residue - it WILL NOT FIX noisy pots or
intermittent switches and the like.

To do that job requires a good grease solvent that
lingers and a light oil to provide metal surface
protection.

This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.


** You must be a raving nut case.


Well thank you Phil.
I just stated what I use.
I do it because it works.


You are obviously the sort of person who believes in do things
thoroughly, and using the right tool for the job.

I can understand this if your doing it professionally, or if it's the
sort of thing you find you need to quite often - but are you convinced
that the end result is substantially better than a quick squirt of WD?



** The damn shame is that he IS so convinced.

But that is a sad comment about HIM and nothing else.

The famous "one born every minute" observation is a marketeer's byword.




..... Phil

On 5/3/2017 5:32 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
** Same goes for everyone here.

But you have fallen, hook line and ****ing sinker for one of the sleaziest product scams out.

ANYTHING to do with "Caig" or "De-Oxit" is a 100% SCAM.

You are a "Mr Gullible" par excellence.

" It cost more - so it must be better " is your motto.

The motto of every ****wit alive or dead.

And THERE is your justification for WD-40.

Well played Phil.


--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com

Foxs Mercantile wrote:

On 5/3/2017 5:32 AM, Phil Allison wrote:

** Same goes for everyone here.

But you have fallen, hook line and ****ing sinker for one of the
sleaziest product scams out.

ANYTHING to do with "Caig" or "De-Oxit" is a 100% SCAM.

You are a "Mr Gullible" par excellence.

" It cost more - so it must be better " is your motto.

The motto of every ****wit alive or dead.


And THERE is your justification for WD-40.



** You are nothing less than a dead **** Mr Fox.

Congratulations.




..... Phil

On 5/3/2017 7:22 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
Foxs Mercantile wrote:

On 5/3/2017 5:32 AM, Phil Allison wrote:

** Same goes for everyone here.

But you have fallen, hook line and ****ing sinker for one of the
sleaziest product scams out.

ANYTHING to do with "Caig" or "De-Oxit" is a 100% SCAM.

You are a "Mr Gullible" par excellence.

" It cost more - so it must be better " is your motto.

The motto of every ****wit alive or dead.


And THERE is your justification for WD-40.



** You are nothing less than a dead **** Mr Fox.

Congratulations.




.... Phil

It's always good to see Phil at the top of his game.

--

Rick C

Prickman the Liar wrote:

..
..
....

You are a "Mr Gullible" par excellence.

" It cost more - so it must be better " is your motto.

The motto of every ****wit alive or dead.


And THERE is your justification for WD-40.



** You are nothing less than a dead **** Mr Fox.

Congratulations.


.....


It's always good to see Phil at the top of his game.

--

Rick C

...
....


** The "C" stands for **** - right ?

And you are so proud of that.



..... Phil

It's always good to see Phil at the top of his game.

Sure is. His fulminations are typically in inverse proportion to the correctness of his position.

I keep WD-40 by the unpressurized gallon, and use it in refillable pressurized aerosol cans filled from my handy compressor. I will rinse all sorts of stuff, even soak stuff in a small ultrasound in WD-40 when I am sure that it is compatible with whatever it is. But in 40 years around it, I have never used it for or relied on it as a lubricant, rust protectant, rust remover or any of many other 'off label' "2,000 uses" supported by many. It is a handy, pretty benign solvent that even when contaminated with old skunge may be used as a safe fire-starter, mixed with kitty-litter and bagged for proper disposal, and any of several other environmentally neutral purposes.

For a fact, it will get _everything_ off an old clock mechanism, and when mixed with a bit of Oleic acid, gets the brass nice and bright (another discussion).

Point being that there are many other, better, no more/less costly preparations for electronic purposes than WD-40 (nor am I including the Caig Laboratories products in this group) that I would go off-label electronically with WD-40. WD-40's virtue is also its bane: It dissolves old skunge and spreads it nice and thin - unless rinsed off thoroughly one gets that varnish-like sticky coating leaving things far worse than before.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

On Mon, 01 May 2017, Micky wrote:

WD-40 to clean electric contacts?

I'm on vacation and renting a room, and my landlady has a combination
CD/Radio/Cassette?, very compact, portable, works well except fo the
little on/off/CD slide switch.

The switch doesn't easily make contact, even when pushed to and past
the On position. So it's hard to get the radio on, and it turns off
by itself in about 30 minutes. Moving the switch back and forth 10
times to clean it hasn't worked yet.

Normally what I would do is spray contact cleaner or tuner cleaner in
the switch from above, where the plastic slider that goes over the
switch is, And normally that doesn't accomplish much.

Even taking such things apart and spraying the switch from underneath
has taken longer to work than for rheostats, for example, and here I
don't want to take it apart. She's only my landlady.

I don't know where in this non-English-speaking country to buy
contact cleaner and she might balk at the extra money, but she does
have something in an aerosol can that looks mighty like WD-40.

I have this vague recollection that WD-40 is good to clean electric
contacts?? Either that or it's bad for them. Should I try it.

BTW, I want to use the radio, so that's one big reason I want it
fixed. When it stopped playing while she was there, she said, "Oh,
yeah, maybe that's why I bought another one" (She speaks English.)

I never knew WD40 could work with non-metal. Look at this CD unjamming article:

Muskegon Chronicle: Stan Harrison: Jammed DVD/CD tray? Fix it yourself for less than $1 - Mar 4, 2012 It's happened to you. I know it has.

Getting started (middle of article)

Unplug the DVD player and take it to your workshop. Make sure you have a clean surface and plenty of light. A flashlight can help when looking at small parts. You'll need a small Phillips screwdriver, a small flat-blade screwdriver, a cotton swab and some WD-40 lubricant.

First, look at the underside of the player. On some models, there's a slot that might say something like this: "For ejection, insert a pin and push to left." In other words, if the DVD tray is stuck -- like yours is -- stick a straightened paper clip or narrow screwdriver in the slot and push it to the left. Voila! The tray will pop open, and you can retrieve your DVD. If you can get the tray open, leave it partially open. It will make removing the cover of the DVD player easier.

And that's the next step -- removing the cover. Carefully study the case and remove any screws that look as though they're holding the cover in place. Be sure to sort the screws. Tape them to a sheet of paper and label them so you'll be able to properly reassemble the player.

Once you've removed the cover, you should be able to easily slide the tray open. If you can't, don't force it. Forcing the tray could strip or damage the gears, and then you will indeed be buying that new DVD player. Instead, use a small flat-blade screwdriver to press against the cogs on one of the gears beneath the tray. You may have to tip the player on its side and peer into the tray slot with a flashlight. As you push the screwdriver to rotate the gears, the tray should start to slide open.

Replacing the broken belt

Once the tray slides open, you should be able to see a small motor, some gears, and if you're lucky, a broken belt. Remove and keep the broken belt for size. If the belt is missing, take a piece of string and snugly wrap it where the belt should be. Mark and cut the string to size. This will be the size of your replacement belt.

Now for the cheap trick. With the broken belt or piece of string in hand, head for the plumbing section -- that's right, the plumbing section -- of your hardware store or home center. You'll want a rubber O-ring, which is typically used to repair leaky, dripping faucets. Find an O-ring that matches as closely as possible the size of your broken belt or your piece of string. If you can't find an exact match, go for the slightly smaller size.

Put the rubber O-ring in place on your DVD player. If the tray struggles to open or close, the O-ring may be too small. If the next size up is too large, try flexing the O-ring a bit to loosen it up.

Now, using a cotton swab, apply a small amount of WD-40 to the tray guides (groves along the bottom of the tray) for lubrication. This will help the tray glide more easily.

Reattach the cover (you do remember which screws go where, right?) and you're back in business!

Not only have you saved yourself $40, but by not tossing your DVD player into the landfill, you've helped save the planet.

You've just finished watching your favorite movie on DVD, then press the eject button on your DVD player.

Nothing happens. You press again. And again. And again. The tray is stuck. Now what?

You could take your DVD player to the nearest electronics repair shop. But they'd probably charge just as much or more to look at it as it would cost to replace it. So unless your DVD player is still under warranty or you've purchased an extended warranty, you're out of luck.

Instead, you resign yourself to purchasing a new DVD player, one of those inexpensive ones for less than $40. You pry your stuck player open, retrieve your DVD, junk the now-damaged player and head to the nearest big box electronics store.

Save yourself that $40. Sometimes simply unplugging the player for a few minutes will reset the electronics, and you'll once again have a fully functioning DVD player. If that doesn't work, don't give up yet. For a trip to a hardware store or home center and less than $1, you still might be able to fix that stuck DVD tray yourself.
The DVD tray is connected to a series of gears, a motor and a rubber belt. When the motor is engaged, it turns the belt, which in turn moves the gears that open or close the tray. The problem typically is a broken belt. The motor turns on, but with no belt, it can't turn the gears that operate the tray.

Of course, you could try to buy a new rubber belt online -- if you can find one. But even though the cost of the belt itself wouldn't be much, the cost of shipping would hardly make it worth your while.

(Start of article)
So what'll it be -- $1 or $40? There's nothing to lose. Even if you mess up while attempting your own repair, you simply end up buying yourself a new DVD player anyway.
-- http://www.mlive.com/homeandgarden/i...dvdcd_tra.html

In article , rickman wrote:

not safe to use without checking the materials in use. There are many
products that are specifically intended as contact cleaners which don't
cause these problems.

Bizarrely, there are contact cleaners designed for that which DO
cause problems. A can of RS "Switch cleaner" made a bit of a mess of the
inside of the plastic case of an old radio, by melting the black plastic
into runny black goo.

Cleaned the wave-band switch a treat, but I'm glad it only puddled in
the inside corner, and not so much the outside!

--
--------------------------------------+------------------------------------
Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk

Peter wrote:

It's always good to see Phil at the top of his game.

Sure is. His fulminations are typically in inverse proportion to
the correctness of his position.


** One can learn a lot from the Wieck troll - by just taking the opposite of everything he posts.



I keep WD-40 by the unpressurized gallon,


** So ****ing what ?

You know **** all about the topic of this thread and yet insist on posting more meaningless concertos for solo trumpet.

Hurry up and die, you vile autistic old troll.




..... Phil

Mike wrote:



Bizarrely, there are contact cleaners designed for that which DO
cause problems. A can of RS "Switch cleaner" made a bit of a mess of the
inside of the plastic case of an old radio, by melting the black plastic
into runny black goo.




** This the one?

http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/precis...asers/0180831/

That is a strong grease solvent, meant for mechanical stuff.


FYI:

Here is a spray can with the title:

"Contact Cleaner and Protector"

http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/contact-cleaners/3883814/

Far as I can tell from the data sheets, its WD-40 under another name.


..... Phil

In article ,
Phil Allison wrote:

Bizarrely, there are contact cleaners designed for that which DO
cause problems. A can of RS "Switch cleaner" made a bit of a mess of the
inside of the plastic case of an old radio, by melting the black plastic
into runny black goo.

** This the one?
http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/precis...asers/0180831/
That is a strong grease solvent, meant for mechanical stuff.

Not that one. It was a *lot* of years back, and his since been
used and chucked. A round can with screw-on lid, and internally a
"reversible" aluminium delivery tube, which you rotated 180' and
poked out through a hole in the lid to use it.

Khaki green print on white. No idea what the RS part code was, but
it was "own branded".

But it was definitely a switch cleaner ... it never damaged a switch
or pot, but it didn't agree with that thermoplastic case

--
--------------------------------------+------------------------------------
Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk

In orgo labs we used acetone to be sure there was no water left on glassware.

Acetone (spozably) evaporates completely.

- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus
blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

CRC electronics cleaner from Walmart. Exotic cleaners from Allied Electronics

WD is deodorized kerosene.

WD would emulsify heavy deposits n then use CRC removing the WD.

CRC bottles on the shelf used with the pipe are compressed air/solvent tools.

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 9:20:16 AM UTC-4, wrote:
CRC electronics cleaner from Walmart. Exotic cleaners from Allied Electronics

WD is deodorized kerosene.

WD would emulsify heavy deposits n then use CRC removing the WD.

CRC bottles on the shelf used with the pipe are compressed air/solvent tools.

when cleaning with CRC n pipe, full flow is designed n appliedas the fluid evaps leaving a clean surface but with silicone or WD try an artists paint brush or Q tip .....PCBlaster also. PC asks for a slow down wobbly pin pressure for the first half tank.

On Wednesday, May 3, 2017 at 3:32:05 AM UTC-7, Phil Allison wrote:
Foxs Mercantile wrote:

This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.

But you have fallen, hook line and ****ing sinker for one of the sleaziest product scams out.

ANYTHING to do with "Caig" or "De-Oxit" is a 100% SCAM.

Not true. Caig L260np grease on a sliding connection got me good electrical
contact (about 80 milliohms) for a difficulty with grounding safety on
a product, once.

Their marketing looks like snake oil, but at least some of the products are
useful. And, to the best of my knowledge, none of their competition is any better.

On Saturday, May 6, 2017 at 9:21:13 PM UTC-7, wrote:
In orgo labs we used acetone to be sure there was no water left on glassware.

Acetone (spozably) evaporates completely.

There's better for that, though, because acetone is hygroscopic. It
pulls in water from the air. If you can blow off droplets and bake dry afterward, alcohol
is just as good, and less expensive.

On 5/8/2017 7:56 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Saturday, May 6, 2017 at 9:21:13 PM UTC-7, wrote:
In orgo labs we used acetone to be sure there was no water left on glassware.

Acetone (spozably) evaporates completely.

There's better for that, though, because acetone is hygroscopic. It
pulls in water from the air. If you can blow off droplets and bake dry afterward, alcohol
is just as good, and less expensive.

Why is that a concern? It is hygroscopic until it forms the azeotrope.
Even that ratio will still dissolve more water into it and the residue
evaporate readily. No need to blow drops off, acetone is very thin and
in a few seconds evaporates totally.

--

Rick C

wrote:

CRC electronics cleaner from Walmart.


** CRC is a brand, not a product.

CRC 2-26 is near identical to WD40.


WD is deodorized kerosene.


** Utter BULL**** !!!!

Rest of you absurd crap deleted.

whit3rd wrote:
-------------


But you have fallen, hook line and ****ing sinker for one of
the sleaziest product scams out.

ANYTHING to do with "Caig" or "De-Oxit" is a 100% SCAM.

Not true. Caig L260np grease on a sliding connection got me good electrical
contact (about 80 milliohms) for a difficulty with grounding safety on
a product, once.

Their marketing looks like snake oil, but at least some of the products are
useful.

And, to the best of my knowledge, none of their competition is any better.




** WD 40 does a better and far quicker job, plus penetrates crevices way better. I have some Caig D100L and it is near useless.



...... Phil

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 6:35:37 PM UTC-7, rickman wrote:
On 5/8/2017 7:56 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Saturday, May 6, 2017 at 9:21:13 PM UTC-7, wrote:
In orgo labs we used acetone to be sure there was no water left on glassware.

Acetone (spozably) evaporates completely.

There's better for that, though, because acetone is hygroscopic. It
pulls in water from the air. If you can blow off droplets and bake dry afterward, alcohol
is just as good, and less expensive.

Why is that a concern? It is hygroscopic until it forms the azeotrope.
Even that ratio will still dissolve more water into it and the residue
evaporate readily. No need to blow drops off, acetone is very thin and
in a few seconds evaporates totally.

That's true only while the acetone forms a thin film; when the acetone evaporates the
water remains and beads up into slow-evaporating drops.
Alcohol does just as good a film-producing job, and evaporates slower
so the water is likely to evaporate simultaneously.

For many materials (like those used in printed circuits) the bake-dry is required
anyhow, because the substrate isn't completely water-impermeable. The blow-off
of droplets usually is to remove dissolved dirt, not just the water and solvent.

On 5/9/2017 8:29 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 6:35:37 PM UTC-7, rickman wrote:
On 5/8/2017 7:56 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Saturday, May 6, 2017 at 9:21:13 PM UTC-7, wrote:
In orgo labs we used acetone to be sure there was no water left on glassware.

Acetone (spozably) evaporates completely.

There's better for that, though, because acetone is hygroscopic. It
pulls in water from the air. If you can blow off droplets and bake dry afterward, alcohol
is just as good, and less expensive.

Why is that a concern? It is hygroscopic until it forms the azeotrope.
Even that ratio will still dissolve more water into it and the residue
evaporate readily. No need to blow drops off, acetone is very thin and
in a few seconds evaporates totally.

That's true only while the acetone forms a thin film; when the acetone evaporates the
water remains and beads up into slow-evaporating drops.

Not correct unless there is too much water. Acetone forms an azeotrope
with water which evaporates first, ahead of either purer water or purer
acetone. If your acetone absorbs enough water to cause this problem you
need to get your lab out of the river.


Alcohol does just as good a film-producing job, and evaporates slower
so the water is likely to evaporate simultaneously.

If you don't mind waiting, why use either?


For many materials (like those used in printed circuits) the bake-dry is required
anyhow, because the substrate isn't completely water-impermeable. The blow-off
of droplets usually is to remove dissolved dirt, not just the water and solvent.

The dirt should have been rinsed off. If you have crud remaining in the
rinse water your washer isn't working.

--

Rick C

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:48:29 PM UTC-7, Phil Allison wrote:
whit3rd wrote:

ANYTHING to do with "Caig" or "De-Oxit" is a 100% SCAM.

Not true. Caig L260np grease on a sliding connection got me good electrical
contact (about 80 milliohms) for a difficulty with grounding safety on
a product, once.
Their marketing looks like snake oil ... to the best of my knowledge, none of their competition is any better.

** WD 40 does a better and far quicker job, plus penetrates crevices way better. I have some Caig D100L and it is near useless.

Sure, the D100L (red stuff) is a 'cleaner' which dissolves gunk. If you
have enough access to scrub, any cleaner would work as well, I suspect. The grease, though,
and the 'enhancer' products (blue, or gold) that leave a film behind, they work.

The DeoxIT S series is their current name for the worthwhile stuff.

whit3rd wrote:
--------------

Their marketing looks like snake oil ... to the best of my knowledge,
none of their competition is any better.

** WD 40 does a better and far quicker job, plus penetrates crevices
way better. I have some Caig D100L and it is near useless.


Sure, the D100L (red stuff) is a 'cleaner' which dissolves gunk.



** No it is gunk, a mix of snake oil and bull****.



The DeoxIT S series is their current name for the worthwhile stuff.


** Yawnnnnnnnnnn

One born every minute....


...... Phil