Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Default WD-40 to clean electric contacts?

On Sun, 20 Jan 2019 11:25:35 -0000 (UTC), Chris wrote:
On Sat, 19 Jan 2019 17:57:44 -0800, joefed54 wrote:

every day i get down on my knees and thank the 6lb. 8 oz.
baby jesus for giving us wd40.


You might just be the only one who does.


And, you don't understand subtly.

He is thankful because he makes Good Money repairing stuff that
the klewless phuk up. One of those klewless actions is spraying
WD-40 inside _anything_.

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On Sun, 20 Jan 2019 13:43:39 +0000, Allodoxaphobia wrote:

And, you don't understand subtly.

He is thankful because he makes Good Money repairing stuff that the
klewless phuk up. One of those klewless actions is spraying WD-40
inside _anything_.


I think you mean "irony" - but I take your point now!

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On Monday, 1 May 2017 09:07:51 UTC-7, Micky wrote:
WD-40 to clean electric contacts?

I'm on vacation and renting a room, and my landlady has a combination
CD/Radio/Cassette?, very compact, portable, works well except fo the
little on/off/CD slide switch.

The switch doesn't easily make contact, even when pushed to and past
the On position. So it's hard to get the radio on, and it turns off
by itself in about 30 minutes. Moving the switch back and forth 10
times to clean it hasn't worked yet.

Normally what I would do is spray contact cleaner or tuner cleaner in
the switch from above, where the plastic slider that goes over the
switch is, And normally that doesn't accomplish much.

Even taking such things apart and spraying the switch from underneath
has taken longer to work than for rheostats, for example, and here I
don't want to take it apart. She's only my landlady.

I don't know where in this non-English-speaking country to buy
contact cleaner and she might balk at the extra money, but she does
have something in an aerosol can that looks mighty like WD-40.

I have this vague recollection that WD-40 is good to clean electric
contacts?? Either that or it's bad for them. Should I try it.

BTW, I want to use the radio, so that's one big reason I want it
fixed. When it stopped playing while she was there, she said, "Oh,
yeah, maybe that's why I bought another one" (She speaks English.)


sorry, kids ... neither subtlety nor irony ... just a bit of exaggeration, really.
i find the stuff very helpful for freeing up stubborn automotive fasteners (this comment will itself will bring out a completely different breed of haters ... rave on haters, i didn't say it was the BEST).
it is also REALLY good for removing sticky goo.
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Default WD-40 to clean electric contacts?

On Sun, 20 Jan 2019 10:21:01 -0800, joefed54 wrote:

i find the stuff very helpful for freeing up stubborn automotive
fasteners (this comment will itself will bring out a completely
different breed of haters ... rave on haters, i didn't say it was the
BEST).
it is also REALLY good for removing sticky goo.


WD-40 is very good for blasting dirt and fine sand out of the clockwork
timers used to stop the engine and dethermalise competition free flight
model aircraft after they've landed in mud or dust piles, but there are
drawbacks:

- if you've cleaned the timer with WD-40 after one flight,
its a very good idea to repeat the the treatment after every following
one.

- remember to strip the timer and clean it thoroughly before the next
competition or trimming session.

Failure to do both of these is very likely to cause the timer to run slow
or stop next time you fly the model. The likely result in case is a crash
or losing the model upwards in a thermal.

IOW, WD-40 is useful stuff but you *must* know its side effects and take
steps to mitigate them every time you use it.


--
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Gregorie | gregorie dot org
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On Sun, 20 Jan 2019 19:09:01 +0000, Martin Gregorie wrote:

IOW, WD-40 is useful stuff but you *must* know its side effects and take
steps to mitigate them every time you use it.


....meant to add that Sony's ICF-SW7600 was an excellent radio to take on
holiday, but bit the dust in 1993. The Sangean ATS-909X seems like a
current-day equivalent. Neither is cheap, though either would be miles
better than having to fix a semi-defunct 3rd party receiver or buy a
stopgap from the bazaar.


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Gregorie | gregorie dot org


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Default WD-40 to clean electric contacts?

On 2019/01/20 7:43 a.m., Chris wrote:
On Sun, 20 Jan 2019 13:43:39 +0000, Allodoxaphobia wrote:

And, you don't understand subtly.

He is thankful because he makes Good Money repairing stuff that the
klewless phuk up. One of those klewless actions is spraying WD-40
inside _anything_.


I think you mean "irony" - but I take your point now!


Indeed, I too misread it. Thought it was invented more recently.

I have certainly profited from the clueless use of WD. Turns oil to glue...

John :-#)#

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MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
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On 2019/01/20 11:09 a.m., Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Sun, 20 Jan 2019 10:21:01 -0800, joefed54 wrote:

i find the stuff very helpful for freeing up stubborn automotive
fasteners (this comment will itself will bring out a completely
different breed of haters ... rave on haters, i didn't say it was the
BEST).
it is also REALLY good for removing sticky goo.


WD-40 is very good for blasting dirt and fine sand out of the clockwork
timers used to stop the engine and dethermalise competition free flight
model aircraft after they've landed in mud or dust piles, but there are
drawbacks:

- if you've cleaned the timer with WD-40 after one flight,
its a very good idea to repeat the the treatment after every following
one.


That sounds like an argument to find a better product. Obviously the WD
is gumming up the works and now you have to use it to enable the
solvents to loosen up the goo.


- remember to strip the timer and clean it thoroughly before the next
competition or trimming session.


Clean out the WD-40 residue I assume. There are much better aerosol
lubricants developed for the electronics industry that a spray to
prevent rust. Why not use one of those? MG Chemicals for one makes a
variety of lubricant cleaners that leave no residue to seize up the works...


Failure to do both of these is very likely to cause the timer to run slow
or stop next time you fly the model. The likely result in case is a crash
or losing the model upwards in a thermal.


Because the WD-40 is gumming up the works.

Why not use salad oil, or anything else that is a liquid when warm but
congeals later?


IOW, WD-40 is useful stuff but you *must* know its side effects and take
steps to mitigate them every time you use it.



WD-40 should only be used when you don't have access to better products,
then wash it out carefully and use the correct product. I have fixed
enough games gummed up through the use of WD-40 that I would prefer to
never see that gunk again.

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
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sorry, kids ... neither subtlety nor irony ... just a bit of exaggeration,
really.
i find the stuff very helpful for freeing up stubborn automotive fasteners
(this comment will itself will bring out a completely different breed of
hater
... rave on haters, i didn't say it was the BEST).
it is also REALLY good for removing sticky goo.


No hate here... I am with you on this.

---
* SLMR 2.1a * DALETECH - for all your home security needs!
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On Sun, 20 Jan 2019 12:38:23 -0800, John Robertson wrote:

WD-40 should only be used when you don't have access to better products,
then wash it out carefully and use the correct product. I have fixed
enough games gummed up through the use of WD-40 that I would prefer to
never see that gunk again.

No argument here. WD-40 was about all there was in spray bombs back in
the day, so we used it and, of necessity understood or soon learnt about
the consequences of using it. Reality being that WD-40 was about the only
waterproofing (hence sticky) penetrating oil available at the time, so
all that there was available at the time.

That the habit of using it has persistent can be put down to the fact
that it does the job provided you understand the side-effects and know
how to do with them.

I'm uncertain what replaces it - switch cleaner? - since blasting grit
out of a timer that has sat behind an engine burning 20:80 oil:methanol
needs WD-40's penetrating oil properties but without the dried-on, sticky
water-repelling coat it leaves behind.


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Gregorie | gregorie dot org
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On 1/20/2019 1:21 PM, wrote:
On Monday, 1 May 2017 09:07:51 UTC-7, Micky wrote:
WD-40 to clean electric contacts?

I'm on vacation and renting a room, and my landlady has a combination
CD/Radio/Cassette?, very compact, portable, works well except fo the
little on/off/CD slide switch.

The switch doesn't easily make contact, even when pushed to and past
the On position. So it's hard to get the radio on, and it turns off
by itself in about 30 minutes. Moving the switch back and forth 10
times to clean it hasn't worked yet.

Normally what I would do is spray contact cleaner or tuner cleaner in
the switch from above, where the plastic slider that goes over the
switch is, And normally that doesn't accomplish much.

Even taking such things apart and spraying the switch from underneath
has taken longer to work than for rheostats, for example, and here I
don't want to take it apart. She's only my landlady.

I don't know where in this non-English-speaking country to buy
contact cleaner and she might balk at the extra money, but she does
have something in an aerosol can that looks mighty like WD-40.

I have this vague recollection that WD-40 is good to clean electric
contacts?? Either that or it's bad for them. Should I try it.

BTW, I want to use the radio, so that's one big reason I want it
fixed. When it stopped playing while she was there, she said, "Oh,
yeah, maybe that's why I bought another one" (She speaks English.)


sorry, kids ... neither subtlety nor irony ... just a bit of exaggeration, really.
i find the stuff very helpful for freeing up stubborn automotive fasteners (this comment will itself will bring out a completely different breed of haters ... rave on haters, i didn't say it was the BEST).
it is also REALLY good for removing sticky goo.

Perhaps if you used it for it's intended purpose. A water displacement.
Not a lubricant, not a cleaner.
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Tom Biasi wrote:



Perhaps if you used it for it's intended purpose. A water displacement.
Not a lubricant, not a cleaner.



** WD-40 is specified as being "multi purpose'

Like many similar products, it's a lubricant, cleaner, grease solvent and a good penetrant.

WD-40 haters are all lunatics.



..... Phil
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On 1/20/2019 11:48 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
Tom Biasi wrote:



Perhaps if you used it for it's intended purpose. A water displacement.
Not a lubricant, not a cleaner.



** WD-40 is specified as being "multi purpose'

Like many similar products, it's a lubricant, cleaner, grease solvent and a good penetrant.

WD-40 haters are all lunatics.



.... Phil

You are correct. It is listed as multi use nowadays. There are also many
other product types that use the name WD40. https://www.wd40.com/


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Try to clean dishes with it !!!

Tom Biasi a écrit le 21/01/2019 Ã* 05:56Â*:
On 1/20/2019 11:48 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
Tom Biasi wrote:



Perhaps if you used it for it's intended purpose. A water displacement.
Not a lubricant, not a cleaner.



Â* ** WD-40 is specified as beingÂ* "multi purpose'
Â*Â* Â* Like many similar products, it's a lubricant, cleaner, grease
solvent and a good penetrant.

WD-40 haters are all lunatics.



....Â* Phil

You are correct. It is listed as multi use nowadays. There are also
many other product types that use the name WD40. https://www.wd40.com/



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Here we go again!

WD-40 is not:

A lubricant.
A contact cleaner.
Sticky or gummy.

It is a 100% volatile light solvent, mostly ultra-refined kerosene, designed to displace water so that whatever it is may be cleaned or lubricated with something designed for the purpose.

A sticky, gummy mess is what happens when existing skunge dissolves into WD-40 and is then distributed throughout whatever it is - for which the WD-40 is then blamed.

The stuff is a cheap rinse, quite useful for removing and loosening skunge, rust and other detritus *IN PREPARATION FOR* the correct permanent treatment.

One useful purpose - spray on snow-blower tines prior to use. It helps to keep things moving. Similarly lawn-mower blades and pan. Less build-up.

Cleaning audio controls - Not so much unless followed up with the correct permanent solution thereafter. But, if it is between that and landfill - have at!

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


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On Sun, 20 Jan 2019 20:48:21 -0800, Phil Allison wrote:

** WD-40 is specified as being "multi purpose'

Advertising. If you go to their site and read the FAQs it says quite
clearly that the original WD-40 is a water-displacing anti-corrosion
product.

They also make a range of other products which are carb cleaners,
penetrating oils, etc., but these are all sold under the
"WD-40 Specialist..." label.

I think you're referring to "WD-40 Multi-use Product" rather than the
original WD-40.


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Gregorie | gregorie dot org
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On Monday, May 1, 2017 at 12:07:51 PM UTC-4, Micky wrote:
WD-40 to clean electric contacts?

I'm on vacation and renting a room, and my landlady has a combination
CD/Radio/Cassette?, very compact, portable, works well except fo the
little on/off/CD slide switch.

The switch doesn't easily make contact, even when pushed to and past
the On position. So it's hard to get the radio on, and it turns off
by itself in about 30 minutes. Moving the switch back and forth 10
times to clean it hasn't worked yet.

Normally what I would do is spray contact cleaner or tuner cleaner in
the switch from above, where the plastic slider that goes over the
switch is, And normally that doesn't accomplish much.

Even taking such things apart and spraying the switch from underneath
has taken longer to work than for rheostats, for example, and here I
don't want to take it apart. She's only my landlady.

I don't know where in this non-English-speaking country to buy
contact cleaner and she might balk at the extra money, but she does
have something in an aerosol can that looks mighty like WD-40.

I have this vague recollection that WD-40 is good to clean electric
contacts?? Either that or it's bad for them. Should I try it.

BTW, I want to use the radio, so that's one big reason I want it
fixed. When it stopped playing while she was there, she said, "Oh,
yeah, maybe that's why I bought another one" (She speaks English.)


WD40 - it is a desert topping...no, its a floor wax....Hey, its BOTH. LOL - liberally borrowed from an old SNL skit...
Which pretty much sums up my feeling about WD40
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wrote:


Here we go again!


** With a congenital lunatic like you at the helm.


WD-40 is not:

A lubricant.


** Yes is is.

A contact cleaner.


** Yes it is.

Sticky or gummy.


** One out of three.


It is a 100% volatile light solvent,


** Wrong. The solvent part is about 80%.


mostly ultra-refined kerosene,



** Wrong again.

designed to displace water



** But rarely used for that.

so that whatever it is may be cleaned or lubricated with
something designed for the purpose.


** Half witted bull****.


A sticky, gummy mess is what happens when existing skunge dissolves
into WD-40 and is then distributed throughout whatever it is
- for which the WD-40 is then blamed.



** Happens a lot.


The stuff is a cheap rinse, quite useful for removing and loosening skunge, rust and other detritus *IN PREPARATION FOR* the correct permanent treatment.


** Absurd crap from a serial bull****ter.




Cleaning audio controls - Not so much unless followed up with
the correct permanent solution thereafter.


** Aside from a new control, there is no "permanent solution".



Peter Wieck


**Wot a ******........




..... Phil
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Phil:

As one who is unencumbered by the Thought Process, I guessed you would be the first to chime in with all the myths and magic attributed to a rather mundane product. Here IS what it IS:

https://www.wd40.com/files/pdf/msds-wd482671453.pdf

Aliphatic Hydrocarbon 64742-47-8 45-50
Petroleum Base Oil 64742-58-1
64742-53-6
64742-56-9
64742-65-0
25
LVP Aliphatic Hydrocarbon 64742-47-8 12-18
Surfactant Proprietary 2
Non-Hazardous Ingredients Mixture 10%

Now go he
https://www.cas.org/support/document...ubstances/faqs

That explains what those numbers are, and how you may trace them.

https://chem.nlm.nih.gov/chemidplus/rn/64742-53-6

Here is one to start you off.

Find me one of those CAS numbers that is not a 100% volatile compound.

Distillates (petroleum), solvent-dewaxed heavy paraffinic - note "DEWAXED" - the wax being the only part that would be non-volatile.

Also, whilst you are at it, show me one part or piece that is a CLEANER. There is a surfactant to reduce surface tension between ingredients and help it spread on a surface. Which is quite distinct from a cleaning agent - unless you see rinsing as cleaning. Which it is not.

And, of course, anything that is 100% volatile over the short term is by nature not a lubricant. What good is a non-persistent lubricant? Even water can do that. Or Oil of Wintergreen (Methyl salicylate) which is a nifty temporary lubricant, if one can stand the smell.

As to Fader Lube, much as I dislike Caig as a company, it ain't half-bad stuff as a persistent control lubricant.

Repeat: Unencumbered by the Thought Process.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA



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wrote:

Phil:



** Do not call me "Phil" you posturing asshole.




As one who is unencumbered by the Thought Process,



** Describes bull****ting idiots like YOU perfectly.

For the readers:

WD-40 is a mixture a hydrocarbon solvent that evaporates quite rapidly and a light mineral oil that does not.

Take no notice of the troll calling itself pf - cos he is the worst kind of fool.



..... Phil


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Please note the interpolations:

On Monday, January 21, 2019 at 3:27:22 PM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:
wrote:

Phil:



** Do not call me "Phil" you posturing asshole.


OK - Hey Twit:



As one who is unencumbered by the Thought Process,



** Describes bull****ting idiots like YOU perfectly.

For the readers:

WD-40 is a mixture a hydrocarbon solvent that evaporates quite rapidly and a light mineral oil that does not.


Not according to the MSDS. You suggest differently. Show us. The CAS numbers are all there for you to prove your point - which may respond to proper tonsorial attention, or it may not.


Take no notice of the troll calling itself pf - cos he is the worst kind of fool.



.... Twit


Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

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wrote:




Phil:



** Do not call me "Phil" you posturing asshole.


OK - Hey Twit:



** You are bull****ting asshole and vile troll.






As one who is unencumbered by the Thought Process,



** Describes bull****ting idiots like YOU perfectly.

For the readers:

WD-40 is a mixture a hydrocarbon solvent that evaporates quite rapidly and a light mineral oil that does not.


Not according to the MSDS.



** Bull****.




Peter Wieck = ASSHOLE & total ****head


Melrose Park, PA


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Twit:

That would be twice.

Write it again, and you have presented with the Bellman's Proof. As much a fallacy now as it was then.

"Just the place for a Snark!" the Bellman cried,
As he landed his crew with care;
Supporting each man on the top of the tide
By a finger entwined in his hair.

"Just the place for a Snark! I have said it twice:
That alone should encourage the crew.
Just the place for a Snark! I have said it thrice:
What I tell you three times is true."

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
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On 2019-01-21 12:10, wrote:

Find me one of those CAS numbers that is not a 100% volatile compound.



How hot do you have to get it for this to happen?


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Truly, WD-40 is very successful Troll Bait in s.e.r.
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On Tuesday, January 22, 2019 at 1:43:49 PM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote:

I would think that spraying it on a clear sheet of glass would show up
any residue better than paper towel...



Yes, and no. There are at least six (6) fractions in WD-40. The most persistent of which is a dewaxed light mineral spirit. That will take the longest to evaporate. A paper towel has the virtue of wicking all the fractions, thereby speeding the process.

64742-65-0 is the CAS number. And, if followed, it is named "Adriatic Spindle Oil". Trace it further, it is a non-staining, non-gumming material used for high-speed spindle lubrication. Trace it further, and where I have used it directly in my past, it is used in testing turbine seals at very high speed (10,000 - 50,000 rpm). That material would be the clear quill (100% single-fraction, undiluted). The material is injected constantly into the seal, and not recirculated. If none passed the seal, the seal passed (pun intended). The seal face is graphite, and self-lubricating, the spindle oil being a "visible air", air being used for static testing. As it is thinner than any turbine oil, it is very good for dynamic testing.

In any case, we kept the containers sealed tightly as the stuff would evaporate otherwise, and was not at all cheap in the quantities used.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

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In article ,
wrote:
X-Newsreader: trn 4.0-test77 (Sep 1, 2010)

On Tuesday, January 22, 2019 at 1:43:49 PM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote:

I would think that spraying it on a clear sheet of glass would show up
any residue better than paper towel...



Yes, and no. There are at least six (6) fractions in WD-40. The most persistent of which is a dewaxed light mineral spirit. That will take the longest to
evaporate. A paper towel has the virtue of wicking all the fractions, thereby speeding the process.

64742-65-0 is the CAS number. And, if followed, it is named
"Adriatic Spindle Oil".


For what it's worth, I was curious about the "LVP aliphatic
hydrocarbon" fraction (since it's a "low vapor pressure" material).
This CAS (64742-47-8) turns out to have a vapor pressure of a couple
of mm of mercury, and a volatility of 0.18 relative to butyl acetate.

According to another site, water has a relative volatility of 0.3 on
this scale, mineral spirits 0.1. So, this fraction of WD-40
evaporates faster than mineral spirits but slower than water. Hence,
"volatile", but not highly volatile (naptha is 1.4, acetone is 5.6).

For 64742-65-0, there seem to be a number of differently-named
products which fall into this category. For most of them the MSDS
says that the evaporation rate is "unavailable" or "n/a". The only
actual number I found is for a product which contains more than 90% of
this oil, and it lists the relative evaporation rate as .01.

So, volatile in principle, but pretty slowly - less than a tenth the
rate of mineral spirits, less than 3% that of water. In practice I'd
guess that this means "hours to days" rather than "minutes". Maybe
about like lamp-oil kerosene?

Whether any of these fractions contain some small amount of long-chain
residuals that will hang around for weeks or months... I do not know.
Due to the fact that these CAS numbers often cover a fairly broad
range of products, and due to the fact that petroleum distillation
usually doesn't produce anything like a chemically-pure product, one
would probably have to test an individual batch of WD-40 to know for
certain how it would behave under various conditions of evaporation.


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On Tuesday, January 22, 2019 at 7:51:54 PM UTC-5, Dave Platt wrote:

Whether any of these fractions contain some small amount of long-chain
residuals that will hang around for weeks or months... I do not know.
Due to the fact that these CAS numbers often cover a fairly broad
range of products, and due to the fact that petroleum distillation
usually doesn't produce anything like a chemically-pure product, one
would probably have to test an individual batch of WD-40 to know for
certain how it would behave under various conditions of evaporation.


Snippage


All pretty much true - but understanding the mechanics of evaporation does help.

Aliphatic Hydrocarbon 64742-47-8 45%-50%

Petroleum Base Oil 25%
64742-58-1
64742-53-6
64742-56-9
64742-65-0
NOTE: Five (5) Fractions making that 25%. And these are chain molecules, not ring molecule. Makes a difference.

LVP Aliphatic Hydrocarbon 64742-47-8 12%-18%

Surfactant Proprietary 2%

Non-Hazardous Ingredients Mixture 10%


Now the science: We have a solution of high and low volatility materials. For simplicity, lets stick with a simple solution of two miscible hydrocarbons, one LVP, one as volatile as say - V&PM Naptha.

1. The Naptha in your solution will evaporate at a constant rate.

2. The evaporation rate of the LVP will vary depending on the concentration of the mixture, but will always be higher than the evaporation rate of pure LVP, causing the Naptha/LVP mixture to evaporate faster.

3. The Naptha concentration will decrease with time, and there will always be a solution of pure LVP as the Naptha will completely evaporate first.

Now, consider WD40 is a mixture of many compounds, and although more complicated a system than just two compounds, as a system, it is (and will remain) 100% volatile in a relatively shorter period of time than any one compound in the system. If the highest concentration also happens to be the most volatile fraction, that will materially affect overall evaporation speed.

The general branch of science on this is called "Mixed Solvent Evaporation"..

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
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" wrote:
On Tuesday, January 22, 2019 at 1:43:49 PM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote:

I would think that spraying it on a clear sheet of glass would show up
any residue better than paper towel...



Yes, and no. There are at least six (6) fractions in WD-40. The most
persistent of which is a dewaxed light mineral spirit. That will take the
longest to evaporate. A paper towel has the virtue of wicking all the
fractions, thereby speeding the process.

64742-65-0 is the CAS number. And, if followed, it is named "Adriatic
Spindle Oil". Trace it further, it is a non-staining, non-gumming
material used for high-speed spindle lubrication. Trace it further, and
where I have used it directly in my past, it is used in testing turbine
seals at very high speed (10,000 - 50,000 rpm). That material would be
the clear quill (100% single-fraction, undiluted). The material is
injected constantly into the seal, and not recirculated. If none passed
the seal, the seal passed (pun intended). The seal face is graphite, and
self-lubricating, the spindle oil being a "visible air", air being used
for static testing. As it is thinner than any turbine oil, it is very
good for dynamic testing.

In any case, we kept the containers sealed tightly as the stuff would
evaporate otherwise, and was not at all cheap in the quantities used.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


A spectrum test reveled an amount of bug juice. Can't say what bug, might
be a Variation of stink bug LOL.

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John Robertson wrote:
On 2019/01/20 11:09 a.m., Martin Gregorie wrote:
On Sun, 20 Jan 2019 10:21:01 -0800, joefed54 wrote:
i find the stuff very helpful for freeing up stubborn automotive
fasteners (this comment will itself will bring out a completely
different breed of haters ... rave on haters, i didn't say it was the
BEST).
it is also REALLY good for removing sticky goo.
WD-40 is very good for blasting dirt and fine sand out of the clockwork

timers used to stop the engine and dethermalise competition free flight
model aircraft after they've landed in mud or dust piles, but there are
drawbacks:
- if you've cleaned the timer with WD-40 after one flight,

its a very good idea to repeat the the treatment after every following
one.


That sounds like an argument to find a better product. Obviously the WD
is gumming up the works and now you have to use it to enable the solvents
to loosen up the goo.

- remember to strip the timer and clean it thoroughly before the next

competition or trimming session.


Clean out the WD-40 residue I assume. There are much better aerosol
lubricants developed for the electronics industry that a spray to prevent
rust. Why not use one of those? MG Chemicals for one makes a variety of
lubricant cleaners that leave no residue to seize up the works...

Failure to do both of these is very likely to cause the timer to run slow

or stop next time you fly the model. The likely result in case is a crash
or losing the model upwards in a thermal.


Because the WD-40 is gumming up the works.

Why not use salad oil, or anything else that is a liquid when warm but congeals later?

IOW, WD-40 is useful stuff but you *must* know its side effects and take

steps to mitigate them every time you use it.

WD-40 should only be used when you don't have access to better products,
then wash it out carefully and use the correct product. I have fixed
enough games gummed up through the use of WD-40 that I would prefer to
never see that gunk again.

John :-#)#



Never saw gumming after decades.

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On Thursday, January 24, 2019 at 3:41:19 AM UTC-5, GS wrote:

Never saw gumming after decades.

Greg


The issue with free-flight two and four-stroke diesel glow engines is that the general lubricant is either a PAG based oil, or castor oil, typically from 17% to as much as 25% of the fuel (the rest being Methanol and often but not always nitromethane). Not all of this oil burns. The residue that has not been reduced to hard varnish is soluble in WD-40. Rinsing with WD-40 and not completely removing the residue spreads it thinly all over everything - which then promptly gums up as the WD-40 dissipates.

It is not the fault of the WD-40, but of the user, for not using enough.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


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On 2/2/19 2:43 AM, gregz wrote:
Watching a video or two, Liquid Wrench came out on top
for nuts and bolts.


Yeah, "I saw it on youtube (or facebook)."

That's laughable, Liquid Wrench is better than WD-40, but
PB-Blaster is better than Liquid Wrench, and Kroil is
better than PB-Blaster.

That's just the way it is.


--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
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