I have a SONY KV-27V26 made in 1997, and it went dead last night. When it
starts the FBT makes a "tzk" noise for a half a second, and then stops. No
visible spark can be seen around the FBT, not even in the complete darkness.
The noise seems to be louder than normal operation (?), like a continuos
spark, but not sure. Then the power led keeps flashing every second or so.
Is this a short iside the flyback transformer, and is stoped by protection?
Or is it a short somewhere on the high voltage?
I have a background in electronics, but not too much experience in TV
repair. Any help is much appreciated. I can be also reached at icsaki (at)
hotmail.com

Thanks,
Istvan

Best sugestion with your Sony is to take it to an authorized Sony Service
Facility. They will have the necessary tools to diagnose the problem be it
the LOPT or other area.
"Isi" wrote in message
...
I have a SONY KV-27V26 made in 1997, and it went dead last night. When it
starts the FBT makes a "tzk" noise for a half a second, and then stops. No
visible spark can be seen around the FBT, not even in the complete
darkness.
The noise seems to be louder than normal operation (?), like a continuos
spark, but not sure. Then the power led keeps flashing every second or so.
Is this a short iside the flyback transformer, and is stoped by
protection?
Or is it a short somewhere on the high voltage?
I have a background in electronics, but not too much experience in TV
repair. Any help is much appreciated. I can be also reached at icsaki (at)
hotmail.com

Thanks,
Istvan

Hey man this is a place where some people want to try possible easy
repairs
the only thing you post is ``take it to the shop`` well DUH everyone
knows that .

Some people are tired of shops charging 200$ to replace a 2$ part in 15
minutes

Nice Kenny: Presume that he actually does have the equipment and knowledge
as to what he would be looking for?? Then he would have indicated that fact
in the materials of the original post, inclusive of diagnostic results.
Rather than having him totally FUBAR the set and maybe hurt himself IMHO it
would be better to have a "professional" check it out. Maybe it is just
lousy solder connections at the h-drive or LOPT. Safety reasons and
professional courtesy inluded.
"Ken G." wrote in message
...
Hey man this is a place where some people want to try possible easy
repairs
the only thing you post is ``take it to the shop`` well DUH everyone
knows that .

Some people are tired of shops charging 200$ to replace a 2$ part in 15
minutes

"Ken G." wrote in message
...
Hey man this is a place where some people want to try possible easy
repairs
the only thing you post is ``take it to the shop`` well DUH everyone
knows that .

Some people are tired of shops charging 200$ to replace a 2$ part in 15
minutes

Hey, watch it. I never charge more than $180 for the 15 minute jobs.


--
Leonard Caillouet

....I'd like to find you inner child and kick its little ass. Get over it...
(The Eagles)

On Fri, 6 Feb 2004 18:23:10 -0700 (MST), (Ken G.)
wrote:

Hey man this is a place where some people want to try possible easy
repairs
the only thing you post is ``take it to the shop`` well DUH everyone
knows that .

Some people are tired of shops charging 200$ to replace a 2$ part in 15
minutes


That's not good assumption. The Sony is expensive unit and key parts
from Sony also are expenive. Just a fly for an Wega 24" is (GASP) 160
wholesale. And it was the bad fly. And we took this at a loss
because the fly almost took all the estimate. BTW, we don't see many
sony stuff but we're authorized to repair theirs for warranty & non
warrenty.

Heck, 32" RCA with that estimate cost is about right for service, 24"
Wega is relicous! But that is SONY fault for over priced parts.

Good shops applies the estimate depending on brand and type of fault,
known cost of parts needed to repair fault tv presents to the tech
during estimating process. At least narrow down to general type of
problem makes estimate more accurate.

200 for 24" or 27" wega is about right and estimate is bit on small
side especially if there's "surprise" expensive part. Last year fixed
an 14" wega with no audio out of warranty for 150.

Cheers,

Wizard

Hi Art,

I am an electrical engineer, and I repaired TVs occasionally in the early
ninties.
So I won't hurt myself.
I also got the schematic today, and I'm confortable with the soldering iron
and wick.
So the PS seems to be OK, I measured the 135V on pin 2 of the FBT. The HOT
is also OK, since it starts up for a half a second, or so.
I assume it goes into protection mode after the short startup. There are no
visible signs of a bad solder joint arount the FBT (I checked with a
magnifier glass). What next?
I also noticed the FBT on the original schematic is 1-453-207-11 and the one
in the set is 8-598-969-00.

I really appreciate your support.
Istvan

"Art" wrote in message
news
Nice Kenny: Presume that he actually does have the equipment and knowledge
as to what he would be looking for?? Then he would have indicated that
fact
in the materials of the original post, inclusive of diagnostic results.
Rather than having him totally FUBAR the set and maybe hurt himself IMHO
it
would be better to have a "professional" check it out. Maybe it is just
lousy solder connections at the h-drive or LOPT. Safety reasons and
professional courtesy inluded.
"Ken G." wrote in message
...
Hey man this is a place where some people want to try possible easy
repairs
the only thing you post is ``take it to the shop`` well DUH everyone
knows that .

Some people are tired of shops charging 200$ to replace a 2$ part in 15
minutes

snipped:
"Isi" wrote in message

I also noticed the FBT on the original schematic is 1-453-207-11 and the
one
in the set is 8-598-969-00.

Istvan
-----------------------------------

Damn....... this is not the first time that I have heard that some *******
in the middle of the night took the back off of your television and switched
out your original equipment FBT and put in an improper replacement.
Probably some tech from a high priced shop that Ken G is always talking
about trying to obtain some free parts.

Some repairmen like to make a decent living. We flat rate our labor, and it
averages out. $200 is not reasonable labor for a shop repair unless the shop
had to pick up and deliver the unit. $55 to 65 is reasonable if you fix the
unit, and in home is worth much more as you have to lug all the equipment
with you and work in bad conditions with the screaming kids, barking dogs,
bad light, people breathing over your neck while you're trying to fix their
set, etc. When a shop fixes any problem in 15 minutes that means the tech is
good. You are paying for experience when you see that. What about the first
time the guy saw that problem and spent days trying to fix it with
inadequate support from the mfr? What you don't seem to consider is the
first time the repairman saw that problem he probably lost his a$$ fixing
it, also you fail to consider training for each new model year, required
subscriptions to manuals, Insurance required by manufacturers to be an
authorized servicer, (usually $1,000,000 coverage or more) and the other
things like paying employees, in other words when john q. backyard tvguy
fixes a set in the garage he doesn't have any OVERHEAD. It doesn't cost him
to maintain a shop, and if he does a bad job and the unit catches on fire
and burns down your house you can bet he doesn't have insurance that will
cover it, but an authorized servicer DOES because you can't get authorized
without it. I've been professionaly repairing electronics for ASC's for 14+
years and I know my experience is worth what I charge.
/rant

--
Jammy Harbin
J & J Electronics, Inc.
227 S. 4th St.
Selmer, TN 38375
731-645-3311
"Ken G." wrote in message
...
Hey man this is a place where some people want to try possible easy
repairs
the only thing you post is ``take it to the shop`` well DUH everyone
knows that .

Some people are tired of shops charging 200$ to replace a 2$ part in 15
minutes

Sounds like it time for Ken G to retire before he goes bust.

jmt

kip

Seen way too many SONY Teles with poor solder connections at the horiz
driver and LOPT transfformesr, and, ocassionally the same problem at the
SMPS transformer. The repairs that we have done that tend to repair many of
these sets is to physically remove both the Driver and Flyback transformers,
clean all the old materials from the pads and leads, and reinstall the
items. BTW using a good ringer on the flyback when out of the circuit is a
prudent move. Also to check the driver transistor, horiz output transistor,
and associated components including caps, resistors, and coils. A good mag
glass or mag lamp will assist in locating questionable connections.
"john" wrote in message
.. .


Sounds like it time for Ken G to retire before he goes bust.

jmt

kip