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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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#2
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In article , gothika
wrote: On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 00:01:52 GMT, (Michael) wrote: Try using a stronger solvent. I use a cotton swab and a good brand of carb cleaner(aerosol)... I've tried most of those solvents and they don't take it off. I'm an ex-VCR tech, and yes, I do know how to open the machine and clean the heads! I've never seen anything like these deposits. I suspect they were caused by the famous Panasonic wet lubricant incompatibility problem. Strong solvents don't seem to do the trick. I've tried naptha (cig lighter fluid, which I presume is what you meant by "butane lighter fluid," since actual butane is a gas), petroleum-based contact cleaner, alcohol, you name it. I haven't actually tried carb cleaner, but I think it's very similar in composition to the petro-based contact cleaner I have. I guess I can go get some actual carb cleaner and try that. Any other ideas? Thanks. Michael |
#3
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Have you tried Acetone? Also try calling or emailing Panasonic's
tech-help line to see what they recommend. You could see if there are comparable parts units on Ebay. |
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On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 04:03:35 -0500, "Steve(JazzHunter)"
wrote: On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 01:13:25 GMT, (Michael) wrote: In article , gothika wrote: On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 00:01:52 GMT, (Michael) wrote: Try using a stronger solvent. I use a cotton swab and a good brand of carb cleaner(aerosol)... I've tried most of those solvents and they don't take it off. I'm an ex-VCR tech, and yes, I do know how to open the machine and clean the heads! I've never seen anything like these deposits. I suspect they were caused by the famous Panasonic wet lubricant incompatibility problem. For the most stubborn head deposits I use Perchloroethylene, also known as tetrachloroethylene, ethylene tetrachloride, or PERC. It comes in a bottle labeled "Spot Remover." It is harmless to heads, and evaporates instantly, but is lethal to plastics! There has never been a situation where it has not removed the problem, unlike gasoline and alcohol-based solvents. I should mention it also makes chamois stucky. Put a drop of Perc on a bit of lint-free paper and by hand turn the heads against it. For the worst cases moisten a Q-tip to apply to the head, then wipe with paper. Since it dissolves plastic and petroleum materials, it will remove lubricants and tape binder from the head, which is what we want to accomplish. It doesn't attack carbon or metals, or shellac (except by extended soaking) . Steve . . Steve .. Strong solvents don't seem to do the trick. I've tried naptha (cig lighter fluid, which I presume is what you meant by "butane lighter fluid," since actual butane is a gas), petroleum-based contact cleaner, alcohol, you name it. I haven't actually tried carb cleaner, but I think it's very similar in composition to the petro-based contact cleaner I have. I guess I can go get some actual carb cleaner and try that. Any other ideas? Thanks. Michael |
#6
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On Tue, 27 Jan 2004 01:13:25 GMT, (Michael) wrote:
Actually I meant butanol. The carb spray I use has acetone and some other petroleum based solvents. Most of the hard black deposits you find on tape drums are from the tapes themselves. The lubricants used on the moving parts is usually lithium based or silicone based and will clean off very easy.(The reason it'd be black is from dirt/dust and tape "shavings" that fall down onto the tape guide runners. This kind of deposit will clean off easily if it gets on the drum, owing to it's base constituent being grease, which most solvents will clean off very easily. The hard to get off stuff is always tape coatings. The binders and adhesives used inthe oxide coatings can be as tough as cement and severe build up can necessitate drum removal and soaking. I just keep at it with the swabs and carb spray until it starts to flake off. It can take alot of time and effort but I've always been able to get all mine ungummed this way. If you do it by the book, pulling the drum and soaking it in acetone or triple trico is the recommended procedure. In article , gothika wrote: On Sun, 25 Jan 2004 00:01:52 GMT, (Michael) wrote: Try using a stronger solvent. I use a cotton swab and a good brand of carb cleaner(aerosol)... I've tried most of those solvents and they don't take it off. I'm an ex-VCR tech, and yes, I do know how to open the machine and clean the heads! I've never seen anything like these deposits. I suspect they were caused by the famous Panasonic wet lubricant incompatibility problem. Strong solvents don't seem to do the trick. I've tried naptha (cig lighter fluid, which I presume is what you meant by "butane lighter fluid," since actual butane is a gas), petroleum-based contact cleaner, alcohol, you name it. I haven't actually tried carb cleaner, but I think it's very similar in composition to the petro-based contact cleaner I have. I guess I can go get some actual carb cleaner and try that. Any other ideas? Thanks. Michael |
#7
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Thanks for all the advice! I'll try PERC. That sounds like the next
natural step. Michael |
#8
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Forgot to mention... yes, it's definitely from tape coatings. When I
mentioned wet lube, I meant the famous miniDV problem with Panasonic tapes. They use a wet lubricant, as opposed to every other brand's dry lubricant, on their tapes, and mixing Panasonic tapes with those of other brands in the same camcorder can lead to this ultra-tough deposit glaze. This was widely written about in the early days of miniDV. It may be that Panasonic has fixed this incompatibility, but I suspect this camcorder's problem was caused by it, especially since it's a Panasonic cam, it's a few years old, and it probably came with one of the offending Pana tapes. Michael |
#9
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#10
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I have some Gonzo Stain Remover, but I can't find any reference to what's
in it. Is this the right stuff (PERC or something similar that would work)? Michael |
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