Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Old January 13th 16, 02:48 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Default Peavey Classic 60 questions

I have one of the above-mentioned amps on the bench. Pretty
straightforward - 3 X EL84 output valves have air inside the valve. The
plate on one valve appears to have suffered somewhat, but I don't expect
any serious problems apart from that. However, my main questions a

* Should I match the output valves (more accurately, buy a matched quad
from Evatco)? Cost = AUS$100.00/set. Tung-Sol, Genalex (I have an
aversion to Chinese valves, even though they are cheaper),
Electro-Harmonix, JJ, etc.
* My other supplier has no matched sets (and I don't want to buy a
crap-load so I can match them), but sells two brands: Sovtek $13.75 each
or Electro-Harmonix $17.05.

Although cost is not an over-riding concern, the time to ship the Evatco
valves could be. My other supplier can ship today.

Thoughts appreciated. Particularly from PA.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

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Old January 13th 16, 03:03 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Default Peavey Classic 60 questions

On 13/01/2016 1:48 PM, Trevor Wilson wrote:

**OOps. That would be a Peavey Classic 30.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

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Old January 13th 16, 04:46 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Default Peavey Classic 60 questions

Trevor Wilson wrote:

I have one of the above-mentioned amps on the bench. Pretty
straightforward - 3 X EL84 output valves have air inside the valve. The
plate on one valve appears to have suffered somewhat, but I don't expect
any serious problems apart from that. However, my main questions a

* Should I match the output valves (more accurately, buy a matched quad
from Evatco)? Cost = AUS$100.00/set. Tung-Sol, Genalex (I have an
aversion to Chinese valves, even though they are cheaper),
Electro-Harmonix, JJ, etc.
* My other supplier has no matched sets (and I don't want to buy a
crap-load so I can match them), but sells two brands: Sovtek $13.75 each
or Electro-Harmonix $17.05.

Although cost is not an over-riding concern, the time to ship the Evatco
valves could be. My other supplier can ship today.

Thoughts appreciated. Particularly from PA.


** Finding reliably good EL84s is a PITA - there are many duds being sold, with low current output and long warm up times, like over 5 minutes.

Your safest bet is probably JJ or else EH brand.

Matching is best done by YOU with the valves in the actual amp.

At least try to get the idle current the same on each half of the OT as many of them are intolerant of any unbalanced DC component resulting in severe distortion at low frequencies.


..... Phil




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Old January 13th 16, 04:57 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Default Peavey Classic 60 questions

On 13/01/2016 3:46 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
Trevor Wilson wrote:

I have one of the above-mentioned amps on the bench. Pretty
straightforward - 3 X EL84 output valves have air inside the
valve. The plate on one valve appears to have suffered somewhat,
but I don't expect any serious problems apart from that. However,
my main questions a

* Should I match the output valves (more accurately, buy a matched
quad from Evatco)? Cost = AUS$100.00/set. Tung-Sol, Genalex (I
have an aversion to Chinese valves, even though they are cheaper),
Electro-Harmonix, JJ, etc. * My other supplier has no matched
sets (and I don't want to buy a crap-load so I can match them),
but sells two brands: Sovtek $13.75 each or Electro-Harmonix
$17.05.

Although cost is not an over-riding concern, the time to ship the
Evatco valves could be. My other supplier can ship today.

Thoughts appreciated. Particularly from PA.


** Finding reliably good EL84s is a PITA - there are many duds being
sold, with low current output and long warm up times, like over 5
minutes.

Your safest bet is probably JJ or else EH brand.

Matching is best done by YOU with the valves in the actual amp.

At least try to get the idle current the same on each half of the OT
as many of them are intolerant of any unbalanced DC component
resulting in severe distortion at low frequencies.


**Thanks for the tips. The guys at Musiclink were quite helpful,
suggesting that the original valves were crap and anything would be an
improvement. In fact, they responded to my email with good advice AND a
full schematic, board layout and parts list (which I did not request).
Great service.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

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Old January 13th 16, 06:28 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Default Peavey Classic 60 questions

Trevor Wilson wrote:



** Finding reliably good EL84s is a PITA - there are many duds being
sold, with low current output and long warm up times, like over 5
minutes.

Your safest bet is probably JJ or else EH brand.

Matching is best done by YOU with the valves in the actual amp.

At least try to get the idle current the same on each half of the OT
as many of them are intolerant of any unbalanced DC component
resulting in severe distortion at low frequencies.


**Thanks for the tips. The guys at Musiclink were quite helpful,
suggesting that the original valves were crap and anything would be an
improvement.


** That sort of self opinionated drivel is not helpful at all.

It is very easy to find EL84s that glow red, give low power or only last a short while in a PV Classic 30 - things the original Peavey brand ones did not.

Personally I would not take the slightest notice of any tech that made remarks like that cos it is a sure sign of a bull**** artist.



.... Phil


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Old January 13th 16, 03:30 PM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Default Peavey Classic 60 questions

On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 1:29:01 AM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:
Trevor Wilson wrote:



** Finding reliably good EL84s is a PITA - there are many duds being
sold, with low current output and long warm up times, like over 5
minutes.

Your safest bet is probably JJ or else EH brand.

Matching is best done by YOU with the valves in the actual amp.

At least try to get the idle current the same on each half of the OT
as many of them are intolerant of any unbalanced DC component
resulting in severe distortion at low frequencies.


**Thanks for the tips. The guys at Musiclink were quite helpful,
suggesting that the original valves were crap and anything would be an
improvement.


** That sort of self opinionated drivel is not helpful at all.

It is very easy to find EL84s that glow red, give low power or only last a short while in a PV Classic 30 - things the original Peavey brand ones did not.

Personally I would not take the slightest notice of any tech that made remarks like that cos it is a sure sign of a bull**** artist.



... Phil


Unless they meant that originals that are in the amp right now are crap and any brand of new ones would be an improvement. (?)

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Old January 13th 16, 07:59 PM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Default Peavey Classic 60 questions

On 14/01/2016 2:30 AM, John-Del wrote:
On Wednesday, January 13, 2016 at 1:29:01 AM UTC-5, Phil Allison
wrote:
Trevor Wilson wrote:



** Finding reliably good EL84s is a PITA - there are many duds
being sold, with low current output and long warm up times,
like over 5 minutes.

Your safest bet is probably JJ or else EH brand.

Matching is best done by YOU with the valves in the actual
amp.

At least try to get the idle current the same on each half of
the OT as many of them are intolerant of any unbalanced DC
component resulting in severe distortion at low frequencies.


**Thanks for the tips. The guys at Musiclink were quite helpful,
suggesting that the original valves were crap and anything would
be an improvement.


** That sort of self opinionated drivel is not helpful at all.

It is very easy to find EL84s that glow red, give low power or only
last a short while in a PV Classic 30 - things the original Peavey
brand ones did not.

Personally I would not take the slightest notice of any tech that
made remarks like that cos it is a sure sign of a bull**** artist.



... Phil


Unless they meant that originals that are in the amp right now are
crap and any brand of new ones would be an improvement. (?)


**That is precisely what the tech suggested. He was clearly unhappy with
the Chinese valves chosen by Peavey in this model.



--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

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Old January 13th 16, 08:27 PM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Posts: 817
Default Peavey Classic 60 questions



"Trevor Wilson" wrote in message ...

I have one of the above-mentioned amps on the bench. Pretty
straightforward - 3 X EL84 output valves have air inside the valve. The
plate on one valve appears to have suffered somewhat, but I don't expect
any serious problems apart from that. However, my main questions a

* Should I match the output valves (more accurately, buy a matched quad
from Evatco)? Cost = AUS$100.00/set. Tung-Sol, Genalex (I have an
aversion to Chinese valves, even though they are cheaper),
Electro-Harmonix, JJ, etc.
* My other supplier has no matched sets (and I don't want to buy a
crap-load so I can match them), but sells two brands: Sovtek $13.75 each
or Electro-Harmonix $17.05.

Although cost is not an over-riding concern, the time to ship the Evatco
valves could be. My other supplier can ship today.

Thoughts appreciated. Particularly from PA.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au




I have a thought.
The Peavey Classic 30 is a rather nice sounding amp IMHO.

(Considering it's a Peavey)


If I was a proper guitarist, I'd have one of those - but I'm not, I just
fix the things.



Gareth.

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Old January 14th 16, 03:49 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Default Peavey Classic 60 questions

Trevor Wilson wrote:


** That sort of self opinionated drivel is not helpful at all.

It is very easy to find EL84s that glow red, give low power or only
last a short while in a PV Classic 30 - things the original Peavey
brand ones did not.

Personally I would not take the slightest notice of any tech that
made remarks like that cos it is a sure sign of a bull**** artist.


Unless they meant that originals that are in the amp right now are
crap and any brand of new ones would be an improvement. (?)


**That is precisely what the tech suggested. He was clearly unhappy with
the Chinese valves chosen by Peavey in this model.


** The PV Classic30 dates from 1994, but new examples are still on sale.
If the EL84s in TW's PV are original and Chinese, they a likely very old. PV have been using Russian made EL84s since about 2008, supplied to them by Sovtek.

Letting air in ( or the vacuum out ) is a sign of overheating - or a drink spill. Sometimes you can find a tiny crack in the glass between the pins.

Truth is, the tech at Musiclink gave TW no useful advice at all, cos he had none to give. But TW considers he got a useful answer, cos it let him do whatever he felt like.


..... Phil


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Old January 15th 16, 02:52 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Default Peavey Classic 60 questions

On Tuesday, January 12, 2016 at 9:51:45 PM UTC-5, Trevor Wilson wrote:
I have one of the above-mentioned amps on the bench. Pretty
straightforward - 3 X EL84 output valves have air inside the valve. The
plate on one valve appears to have suffered somewhat, but I don't expect
any serious problems apart from that. However, my main questions a

* Should I match the output valves (more accurately, buy a matched quad
from Evatco)? Cost = AUS$100.00/set. Tung-Sol, Genalex (I have an
aversion to Chinese valves, even though they are cheaper),
Electro-Harmonix, JJ, etc.
* My other supplier has no matched sets (and I don't want to buy a
crap-load so I can match them), but sells two brands: Sovtek $13.75 each
or Electro-Harmonix $17.05.

Although cost is not an over-riding concern, the time to ship the Evatco
valves could be. My other supplier can ship today.

Thoughts appreciated. Particularly from PA.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


The plate on one valve appears to have suffered somewhat !!

Here is the schematic

http://www.blueguitar.org/new/schem/peavey/c30schem.gif

You could have a leaky grid capacitor C32 or C35 .0022 uf at 400 volts if the plate appears to be over heated. They are cheap so just change them both.. Also tube amps are still popular so a music sort with a repair shop will usually have a tube tester. He can match up the output tubes for gain , emission and check if gassy. If you feel uncomfortable repairing this amp a local tech in a music store can do all this for you. Do not go to the TV repair man. He is qualified but it is unlikely he will have a tube tester. You want the repair tech in a music store as he will have a tube tester and has been there done that many times and will know how to match output tubes and change coupling condensers if necessary.


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