How the hell do you deal with that plastic coating stuff n the wood ? Looks to me that the wood shrinks and then you can't get the chassis out. Of course I guess they want it that way so it does not rattle, but this is going too far. We are talking the width here. Leave some damn clearance.

Today I had to simply cut some of that **** off and it is noticable, I figure to paint it black as the rest of it is not in the greatest condition cosmetically anyway. But it simply would not come apart with screwdriver nor hook. I did not try the hammer and handgrenade method, but I was tempted.

Another amp, I did not cut this off, but I had to peel it. The edge of the chassis pushed the **** out and then there was no way except to get down to the plane. Then it came out. I guess I could glue it back down but then the volume of the glue would make it even tighter.

Maybe I should grind down the bare wood a bit ? Or maybe I should grind down the chassis pans.

I am trying not to break ****, that is not what I get paid for bu it seems to be easier said than done. And all this applies to amp heads, not just combos. And these big old tube ones, damn.

But these are nice amps and people like them. Plus, no matter what I would rather see them than most of the new class D ****.

And then, I had one, a tube amp but with some solid state (so it wasn't from 19****ing15) that had no bleeders on the main filters at like 500 volts, and absolutely no way to bleed them that was apparent before removing the board. Who the designs this **** ? People who can't do real audio or anything really useful ? For want of a 68K resistor. How the hell did they get that past the UL ?

Rant over, please do add. Any advice on these made to stay put cases and cabinets would be appreciated. I am really thinking of groinging stuff down at this point because if we get involved with it and it comes back, it comes back to me. Unless I quit.

Oh yeah, I got a chance to go work for RSQ. Their stuff it really a blast too, I just met with a rep last week. I do not know where this is going but I can tell you this - it is less heavy lifting and my back is tired.

jurb......


How the hell do you deal with that plastic coating stuff n the wood ? Looks to me that the wood shrinks and then you can't get the chassis out. Of course I guess they want it that way so it does not rattle, but this is going too far. We are talking the width here. Leave some damn clearance.

Today I had to simply cut some of that **** off and it is noticable, I figure to paint it black as the rest of it is not in the greatest condition cosmetically anyway. But it simply would not come apart with screwdriver nor hook. I did not try the hammer and handgrenade method, but I was tempted.

Another amp, I did not cut this off, but I had to peel it. The edge of the chassis pushed the **** out and then there was no way except to get down to the plane. Then it came out. I guess I could glue it back down but then the volume of the glue would make it even tighter.

Maybe I should grind down the bare wood a bit ? Or maybe I should grind down the chassis pans.

I am trying not to break ****, that is not what I get paid for bu it seems to be easier said than done. And all this applies to amp heads, not just combos. And these big old tube ones, damn.



** I do know what you mean !!

The vinyl material binds and jams the chassis cos the glue job was bad

OR

the chassis ends move outwards when the side bolts are done up, particularly with the aluminium chassis used in many Fender SS models - and takes the foil shielding with it.

OR

the chassis was fitted before the vinyl glue dried and becomes glued itself

OR

the front, edge of chassis catches on the aluminium shield plate stapled to the inside of the cabinet - as with older tube Fenders and Marshalls.

IME chassis beating and cabinet repairs & mods are part of the joys of fixing guitar amps.


.... Phil

On 13/11/2015 06:22, wrote:
How the hell do you deal with that plastic coating stuff n the wood ? Looks to me that the wood shrinks and then you can't get the chassis out. Of course I guess they want it that way so it does not rattle, but this is going too far. We are talking the width here. Leave some damn clearance.

Today I had to simply cut some of that **** off and it is noticable, I figure to paint it black as the rest of it is not in the greatest condition cosmetically anyway. But it simply would not come apart with screwdriver nor hook. I did not try the hammer and handgrenade method, but I was tempted.

Another amp, I did not cut this off, but I had to peel it. The edge of the chassis pushed the **** out and then there was no way except to get down to the plane. Then it came out. I guess I could glue it back down but then the volume of the glue would make it even tighter.

Maybe I should grind down the bare wood a bit ? Or maybe I should grind down the chassis pans.

I am trying not to break ****, that is not what I get paid for bu it seems to be easier said than done. And all this applies to amp heads, not just combos. And these big old tube ones, damn.

But these are nice amps and people like them. Plus, no matter what I would rather see them than most of the new class D ****.

And then, I had one, a tube amp but with some solid state (so it wasn't from 19****ing15) that had no bleeders on the main filters at like 500 volts, and absolutely no way to bleed them that was apparent before removing the board. Who the designs this **** ? People who can't do real audio or anything really useful ? For want of a 68K resistor. How the hell did they get that past the UL ?

Rant over, please do add. Any advice on these made to stay put cases and cabinets would be appreciated. I am really thinking of groinging stuff down at this point because if we get involved with it and it comes back, it comes back to me. Unless I quit.

Oh yeah, I got a chance to go work for RSQ. Their stuff it really a blast too, I just met with a rep last week. I do not know where this is going but I can tell you this - it is less heavy lifting and my back is tired.


Sash-cramps , with the active faces reversed, plus a couple of thin
steel measuring rules are your friends

"IME chassis beating and cabinet repairs & mods are part of the joys of fixing guitar amps. "

You got talent in the sarcasm biz son.

Hmmm, you might be older, so if you are over 55 then :

You got talent in the sarcasm biz pops.

Seriously, I have every reason to believe that all this **** comes back to me eventually if I live long enough. So why not make it easy on myself ? Grind a little off the edges, round off the corners. If it doesn't go in easy then, use a ****ing hammer and chisel.

Too bad you can't do that with speaker baffles. POUND the son a bitches out.. Well now, pull the grill cloth off and grind down the wood a few mms, then restretch it tight as possible. Not rattling does not depend on being tight, it depends on being rigid.

And now, how the hell do you get Mackie mixers apart. And Behringer, no parts, **** you. In a way they shouldn't be allowed to do it but it would be wrong to stop them. better to make them apprise the customer of the rest of the terms of the warrauntee as follows :

"...at our discretion, repair or replace ... manufacturing defects..."

But what they left out is that it is very possible that this $8,000 thing you bought has to be replaced in three years. They could make it like that but the market would not bear it.

"Whatever the market will bear".

"Sash-cramps , with the active faces reversed, plus a couple of thin
steel measuring rules are your friends "

Thanks for that, it gives me ideas. I almost got into that today but I know the stuff to do that is not available. Might be there, but not available. Actually not exactly that, but things like that.

PUTTY KNIVES !

Gonna gets me some putty knives. I give it a try. Whaddeyegottoolose ?