jurb......


How the hell do you deal with that plastic coating stuff n the wood ? Looks to me that the wood shrinks and then you can't get the chassis out. Of course I guess they want it that way so it does not rattle, but this is going too far. We are talking the width here. Leave some damn clearance.

Today I had to simply cut some of that **** off and it is noticable, I figure to paint it black as the rest of it is not in the greatest condition cosmetically anyway. But it simply would not come apart with screwdriver nor hook. I did not try the hammer and handgrenade method, but I was tempted.

Another amp, I did not cut this off, but I had to peel it. The edge of the chassis pushed the **** out and then there was no way except to get down to the plane. Then it came out. I guess I could glue it back down but then the volume of the glue would make it even tighter.

Maybe I should grind down the bare wood a bit ? Or maybe I should grind down the chassis pans.

I am trying not to break ****, that is not what I get paid for bu it seems to be easier said than done. And all this applies to amp heads, not just combos. And these big old tube ones, damn.



** I do know what you mean !!

The vinyl material binds and jams the chassis cos the glue job was bad

OR

the chassis ends move outwards when the side bolts are done up, particularly with the aluminium chassis used in many Fender SS models - and takes the foil shielding with it.

OR

the chassis was fitted before the vinyl glue dried and becomes glued itself

OR

the front, edge of chassis catches on the aluminium shield plate stapled to the inside of the cabinet - as with older tube Fenders and Marshalls.

IME chassis beating and cabinet repairs & mods are part of the joys of fixing guitar amps.


.... Phil