Hi all,
My dad gave me an air compressor many years ago, at some point, one
of the tubes from the compressor to the tank broke. I had another so, I
ignored it. It has sat for years and parts have scattered. It seems like
this would be obvious, but I don't know to put this back together. I
find one open male connection going to the tank and two
male connections on the compressor, one larger than the other.
The shut off switch and the pop off valve are intact as are a valve on
the tank and a valve to adjust output pressure.
I just can't make sense of two connections to the compressor and one
to the tank.
Any Ideas?

Sanford Manufacturing
Model 104A200-22
22 Gallon Tank
2 hp motor

Thanks, Mikek

In article , says...

Hi all,
My dad gave me an air compressor many years ago, at some point, one
of the tubes from the compressor to the tank broke. I had another so, I
ignored it. It has sat for years and parts have scattered. It seems like
this would be obvious, but I don't know to put this back together. I
find one open male connection going to the tank and two
male connections on the compressor, one larger than the other.
The shut off switch and the pop off valve are intact as are a valve on
the tank and a valve to adjust output pressure.
I just can't make sense of two connections to the compressor and one
to the tank.
Any Ideas?

Sanford Manufacturing
Model 104A200-22
22 Gallon Tank
2 hp motor

Thanks, Mikek

I assume you have one that turns off when pressure has reached its set
point? There should be a pressure switch on the tank.

you have an inlet and a outlet on the compressor.. there should be a
arrow to mark the direction that compressor turns. If you are not sure,
start it up so see which way the motor turns.

The inlet should have some kind of filter on it. if you put your figure
over what you think is the inlet and then hand spin the pump
in the correct direction, it should create vacuum (inlet) and the other
should create pressure (outlet)

Outlet most likely goes to the tank or into the pressure switch which
goes to the tank.

Inlet needs a filter on it.

Etc..

Jamie

In article , says...
Model 104A200-22



http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/imag...84A150_104A200
_compressor_parts.jpg

Seems like it is now called Sanborn, the compressor break down
should be this one.

On 12/8/2013 6:59 PM, Maynard A. Philbrook Jr. wrote:
In article , says...
Model 104A200-22



http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/imag...84A150_104A200
_compressor_parts.jpg

Seems like it is now called Sanborn, the compressor break down
should be this one.



Thanks for the picture, wish it had little better detail.
I'll study it a while, my dad modified it with a third gauge,
which makes things different, but if I need to, I'll go back to
original and work from there.

Thanks, Mikek

On 12/8/2013 6:53 PM, Maynard A. Philbrook Jr. wrote:
In article , says...

Hi all,
My dad gave me an air compressor many years ago, at some point, one
of the tubes from the compressor to the tank broke. I had another so, I
ignored it. It has sat for years and parts have scattered. It seems like
this would be obvious, but I don't know to put this back together. I
find one open male connection going to the tank and two
male connections on the compressor, one larger than the other.
The shut off switch and the pop off valve are intact as are a valve on
the tank and a valve to adjust output pressure.
I just can't make sense of two connections to the compressor and one
to the tank.
Any Ideas?

Sanford Manufacturing
Model 104A200-22
22 Gallon Tank
2 hp motor

Thanks, Mikek

I assume you have one that turns off when pressure has reached its set
point? There should be a pressure switch on the tank.
Yes, it is in place.

you have an inlet and a outlet on the compressor.. there should be a
arrow to mark the direction that compressor turns. If you are not sure,
start it up so see which way the motor turns.

Now that you have sent the picture you probably see the the two
tubing connections where 81 and 82 attach. and the air intake on the
opposite side.

The inlet should have some kind of filter on it. if you put your figure
over what you think is the inlet and then hand spin the pump
in the correct direction, it should create vacuum (inlet) and the other
should create pressure (outlet)


Ya, that's no problem, easy to tell the inlet from the out. But it still
has two connections to the compressor besides the intake.

Outlet most likely goes to the tank or into the pressure switch which
goes to the tank.

Inlet needs a filter on it.

Etc..

Jamie

Thanks much, Mikek

On 12/8/2013 7:01 PM, amdx wrote:
On 12/8/2013 6:59 PM, Maynard A. Philbrook Jr. wrote:
In article , says...
Model 104A200-22



http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/imag...84A150_104A200
_compressor_parts.jpg

Seems like it is now called Sanborn, the compressor break down
should be this one.



Thanks for the picture, wish it had little better detail.
I'll study it a while, my dad modified it with a third gauge,
which makes things different, but if I need to, I'll go back to
original and work from there.

Thanks, Mikek


I have powered the motor and I find both of the connections
on the compressor have air pumped out. I think the center, larger
fitting is the main outlet to fill the tank. I don't understand the
second and the drawing doesn't help, because where it goes, I don't see
anything for it to attach to. There's nothing behind the pressure switch
as shown.
Mikek

On 12/8/2013 7:01 PM, amdx wrote:
On 12/8/2013 6:59 PM, Maynard A. Philbrook Jr. wrote:
In article , says...
Model 104A200-22



http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/imag...84A150_104A200
_compressor_parts.jpg

Seems like it is now called Sanborn, the compressor break down
should be this one.



Thanks for the picture, wish it had little better detail.
I'll study it a while, my dad modified it with a third gauge,
which makes things different, but if I need to, I'll go back to
original and work from there.

Thanks, Mikek




After some investigation, I think I have a handle on it.
It has become clear parts have been changed.
I probably need to buy some new parts.

I found this pictu

http://tinyurl.com/mwb2dfl

Which show where the tubes land. But there is no landing for the small tube.

And then I looked up the pressure switch.

http://tinyurl.com/lx95566

This shows where the second smaller tube will land.

Thanks, Mikek

On 09/12/2013 00:20, amdx wrote:

Hi all,
My dad gave me an air compressor many years ago, at some point, one
of the tubes from the compressor to the tank broke. I had another so, I
ignored it. It has sat for years and parts have scattered. It seems like
this would be obvious, but I don't know to put this back together. I
find one open male connection going to the tank and two
male connections on the compressor, one larger than the other.
The shut off switch and the pop off valve are intact as are a valve on
the tank and a valve to adjust output pressure.
I just can't make sense of two connections to the compressor and one
to the tank.
Any Ideas?

Sanford Manufacturing
Model 104A200-22
22 Gallon Tank
2 hp motor

Thanks, Mikek

Is there a way to test that the over-pressure pressure release mechanism
is not seized/corroded shut and a bomb in the making?

On 12/9/2013 1:48 AM, N_Cook wrote:
On 09/12/2013 00:20, amdx wrote:

Hi all,
My dad gave me an air compressor many years ago, at some point, one
of the tubes from the compressor to the tank broke. I had another so, I
ignored it. It has sat for years and parts have scattered. It seems like
this would be obvious, but I don't know to put this back together. I
find one open male connection going to the tank and two
male connections on the compressor, one larger than the other.
The shut off switch and the pop off valve are intact as are a valve on
the tank and a valve to adjust output pressure.
I just can't make sense of two connections to the compressor and one
to the tank.
Any Ideas?

Sanford Manufacturing
Model 104A200-22
22 Gallon Tank
2 hp motor

Thanks, Mikek

Is there a way to test that the over-pressure pressure release mechanism
is not seized/corroded shut and a bomb in the making?

I need to purchase a new pressure regulator, the one on it is not the
correct type. The unit has on over pressure valve. After $50 is removed
from my wallet it will work as designed.
This is actually boat related. I acquired ownership of a pontoon
platform. One corner is low in the water, I started pumping air into the
pontoon yesterday with a small air compressor and didn't see much
movement, so I decided to get out this bigger compressor and started
trying to make it work.
This morning, using the small air compressor, I saw bubbles that I
missed yesterday. There is a 4" x 7" plate at the front of one pontoon
that leaks. Today I will remove the plate and pump the water out. The
goal is to get it out of the water and home.
Thanks, Mikek

amdx wrote:
On 12/8/2013 7:01 PM, amdx wrote:
On 12/8/2013 6:59 PM, Maynard A. Philbrook Jr. wrote:
In article , says...
Model 104A200-22



http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/imag...84A150_104A200
_compressor_parts.jpg

Seems like it is now called Sanborn, the compressor break down
should be this one.



Thanks for the picture, wish it had little better detail.
I'll study it a while, my dad modified it with a third gauge,
which makes things different, but if I need to, I'll go back to
original and work from there.

Thanks, Mikek


I have powered the motor and I find both of the connections
on the compressor have air pumped out. I think the center, larger
fitting is the main outlet to fill the tank. I don't understand the
second and the drawing doesn't help, because where it goes, I don't see
anything for it to attach to. There's nothing behind the pressure switch
as shown.
Mikek

The smaller tube is probably for the head pressure relief. When the
pressure switch turns off, it presses a pin on a small valve which
relieves the pressure in the compressor so it can restart without
overloading or stalling the motor.

"Jerry Peters" wrote in message
...
amdx wrote:
On 12/8/2013 7:01 PM, amdx wrote:
On 12/8/2013 6:59 PM, Maynard A. Philbrook Jr. wrote:
In article , says...
Model 104A200-22



http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/imag...84A150_104A200
_compressor_parts.jpg

Seems like it is now called Sanborn, the compressor break down
should be this one.



Thanks for the picture, wish it had little better detail.
I'll study it a while, my dad modified it with a third gauge,
which makes things different, but if I need to, I'll go back to
original and work from there.

Thanks, Mikek


I have powered the motor and I find both of the connections
on the compressor have air pumped out. I think the center, larger
fitting is the main outlet to fill the tank. I don't understand the
second and the drawing doesn't help, because where it goes, I don't see
anything for it to attach to. There's nothing behind the pressure switch
as shown.
Mikek

The smaller tube is probably for the head pressure relief. When the
pressure switch turns off, it presses a pin on a small valve which
relieves the pressure in the compressor so it can restart without
overloading or stalling the motor.


It is called an unloader.

amdx wrote:


I have powered the motor and I find both of the connections
on the compressor have air pumped out. I think the center, larger
fitting is the main outlet to fill the tank. I don't understand the
second and the drawing doesn't help, because where it goes, I don't see
anything for it to attach to. There's nothing behind the pressure switch
as shown.
The standard scheme is there is a check valve at the tank. The pressure
switch has two ports, one to sense, and the other to relieve
pressure in the compressor line so the compressor doesn't stall
the motor. The small port on the compressor head would be this connection.
So, if you don't have a relieving-type pressure switch, there is no place
to connect the relief port. But, a relieving pressure switch is
a REALLY good idea, it makes the motor's job a lot easier.
When it is working right, you will get a big PFFFT every time the
switch turns the compressor off.If it keeps hissing, then the check
valve is gummed up or jammed.

Jon

On 12/9/2013 3:00 PM, Jerry Peters wrote:
amdx wrote:
On 12/8/2013 7:01 PM, amdx wrote:
On 12/8/2013 6:59 PM, Maynard A. Philbrook Jr. wrote:
In article , says...
Model 104A200-22



http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/imag...84A150_104A200
_compressor_parts.jpg

Seems like it is now called Sanborn, the compressor break down
should be this one.



Thanks for the picture, wish it had little better detail.
I'll study it a while, my dad modified it with a third gauge,
which makes things different, but if I need to, I'll go back to
original and work from there.

Thanks, Mikek


I have powered the motor and I find both of the connections
on the compressor have air pumped out. I think the center, larger
fitting is the main outlet to fill the tank. I don't understand the
second and the drawing doesn't help, because where it goes, I don't see
anything for it to attach to. There's nothing behind the pressure switch
as shown.
Mikek

The smaller tube is probably for the head pressure relief. When the
pressure switch turns off, it presses a pin on a small valve which
relieves the pressure in the compressor so it can restart without
overloading or stalling the motor.


Ahhh, that's making sense, I could not understand why there were two
inputs to the pressure switch. Now I understand.
Jon has mentioned a check valve, where does this go in the pneumatic
circuit?

On 12/9/2013 5:23 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
amdx wrote:


I have powered the motor and I find both of the connections
on the compressor have air pumped out. I think the center, larger
fitting is the main outlet to fill the tank. I don't understand the
second and the drawing doesn't help, because where it goes, I don't see
anything for it to attach to. There's nothing behind the pressure switch
as shown.


The standard scheme is there is a check valve at the tank.

Hi Jon,
Where does the check valve go in the pneumatic circuit?


The pressure
switch has two ports, one to sense, and the other to relieve
pressure in the compressor line so the compressor doesn't stall
the motor. The small port on the compressor head would be this connection.
So, if you don't have a relieving-type pressure switch, there is no place
to connect the relief port. But, a relieving pressure switch is
a REALLY good idea, it makes the motor's job a lot easier.
When it is working right, you will get a big PFFFT every time the
switch turns the compressor off.If it keeps hissing, then the check
valve is gummed up or jammed.

Jon

Looks like I'll be ordering a new pressure regulator and check valve.
I need to check the diagram and see where the check valve is supposed to
be, I don't think there is one.
Thanks, Mikek

"amdx" wrote in message
...
On 12/9/2013 5:23 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
amdx wrote:


I have powered the motor and I find both of the connections
on the compressor have air pumped out. I think the center, larger
fitting is the main outlet to fill the tank. I don't understand the
second and the drawing doesn't help, because where it goes, I don't see
anything for it to attach to. There's nothing behind the pressure switch
as shown.


The standard scheme is there is a check valve at the tank.

Hi Jon,
Where does the check valve go in the pneumatic circuit?


The pressure
switch has two ports, one to sense, and the other to relieve
pressure in the compressor line so the compressor doesn't stall
the motor. The small port on the compressor head would be this
connection.
So, if you don't have a relieving-type pressure switch, there is no place
to connect the relief port. But, a relieving pressure switch is
a REALLY good idea, it makes the motor's job a lot easier.
When it is working right, you will get a big PFFFT every time the
switch turns the compressor off.If it keeps hissing, then the check
valve is gummed up or jammed.

Jon

Looks like I'll be ordering a new pressure regulator and check valve.
I need to check the diagram and see where the check valve is supposed to
be, I don't think there is one.
Thanks, Mikek


There must be a check valve or the unloader would empty the tank. It is
usually located in the inlet to the tank. The compressor output goes to a T
connector then to the check valve. The center of the T goes to the unloader.
The pressure switch connects to the tank directly.

Sometimes all this is integrated into the pressure switch.

amdx wrote:

On 12/9/2013 5:23 PM, Jon Elson wrote:

The standard scheme is there is a check valve at the tank.

Hi Jon,
Where does the check valve go in the pneumatic circuit?

Generally, it is part of the actual fitting in the tank wall, in
the discharge line from the compressor.

Looks like I'll be ordering a new pressure regulator and check valve.
I need to check the diagram and see where the check valve is supposed to
be, I don't think there is one.

If it looks like somebody has removed the check valve, then you
want to put one back in. It is possible there never was a check
valve, and the motor is strong enough to start the compressor
under full tank pressure. Sometimes people pull the check valve
because it is sticking part-way open and leaking through the
unloader.

Jon

On 12/9/2013 9:26 AM, amdx wrote:
On 12/9/2013 1:48 AM, N_Cook wrote:
On 09/12/2013 00:20, amdx wrote:

Sanford Manufacturing
Model 104A200-22
22 Gallon Tank
2 hp motor

Thanks, Mikek


I'm still having a problem.
I ordered a new pressure switch,
http://www.amazon.com/Pressure-switc...ef=pd_sim_hi_2
I have plumbed and wired it.
As I said before, the compressor has two outlets, one 3/8" and a smaller
one 1/4". The larger I connected to the tank, the smaller goes to the
unloader on the pressure switch.
The motor will start and then shortly the circuit breaker pops.
The air intake does has air coming out in puffs.
My next step will be opening the unloader tube to see if the
compressor will keep running. ( I think i might) but I don't know what
that means. I'll also change outlets, maybe I just have a weak breaker,
but I doubt it.
Later today, I'll take some pictures, maybe someone can see what I've
done wrong.

Thanks for you suggestions, Mikek

On 12/14/2013 9:34 AM, amdx wrote:
On 12/9/2013 9:26 AM, amdx wrote:
On 12/9/2013 1:48 AM, N_Cook wrote:
On 09/12/2013 00:20, amdx wrote:

Sanford Manufacturing
Model 104A200-22
22 Gallon Tank
2 hp motor

Thanks, Mikek


I'm still having a problem.
I ordered a new pressure switch,
http://www.amazon.com/Pressure-switc...ef=pd_sim_hi_2

I have plumbed and wired it.
As I said before, the compressor has two outlets, one 3/8" and a smaller
one 1/4". The larger I connected to the tank, the smaller goes to the
unloader on the pressure switch.
The motor will start and then shortly the circuit breaker pops.
The air intake does has air coming out in puffs.
My next step will be opening the unloader tube to see if the
compressor will keep running. ( I think i might) but I don't know what
that means. I'll also change outlets, maybe I just have a weak breaker,
but I doubt it.
Later today, I'll take some pictures, maybe someone can see what I've
done wrong.

Thanks for you suggestions, Mikek



Here's a picture of my plumbing job,
http://s395.photobucket.com/user/Qma...2e455.jpg.html
I did unhook the small tube going to the unloader and the compressor
will run fine. It does not have the air puffing out of the air intake as
before with the unloader tube connected.
I doesn't fill up the tank either, I suspect because all the air is
coming out the unloader tube.
Any ideas?
Thanks, Mikek

"amdx" wrote in message
...
On 12/14/2013 9:34 AM, amdx wrote:
On 12/9/2013 9:26 AM, amdx wrote:
On 12/9/2013 1:48 AM, N_Cook wrote:
On 09/12/2013 00:20, amdx wrote:

Sanford Manufacturing
Model 104A200-22
22 Gallon Tank
2 hp motor

Thanks, Mikek


I'm still having a problem.
I ordered a new pressure switch,
http://www.amazon.com/Pressure-switc...ef=pd_sim_hi_2

I have plumbed and wired it.
As I said before, the compressor has two outlets, one 3/8" and a smaller
one 1/4". The larger I connected to the tank, the smaller goes to the
unloader on the pressure switch.
The motor will start and then shortly the circuit breaker pops.
The air intake does has air coming out in puffs.
My next step will be opening the unloader tube to see if the
compressor will keep running. ( I think i might) but I don't know what
that means. I'll also change outlets, maybe I just have a weak breaker,
but I doubt it.
Later today, I'll take some pictures, maybe someone can see what I've
done wrong.

Thanks for you suggestions, Mikek



Here's a picture of my plumbing job,
http://s395.photobucket.com/user/Qma...2e455.jpg.html
I did unhook the small tube going to the unloader and the compressor will
run fine. It does not have the air puffing out of the air intake as before
with the unloader tube connected.
I doesn't fill up the tank either, I suspect because all the air is
coming out the unloader tube.
Any ideas?
Thanks, Mikek


Where is the check valve? How many connections does the tank have? Where
does the pressure switch connect to the tank?

"amdx" wrote in message ...


Hi all,
My dad gave me an air compressor many years ago, at some point, one
of the tubes from the compressor to the tank broke. I had another so, I
ignored it. It has sat for years and parts have scattered. It seems like
this would be obvious, but I don't know to put this back together. I
find one open male connection going to the tank and two
male connections on the compressor, one larger than the other.
The shut off switch and the pop off valve are intact as are a valve on
the tank and a valve to adjust output pressure.
I just can't make sense of two connections to the compressor and one
to the tank.
Any Ideas?

Sanford Manufacturing
Model 104A200-22
22 Gallon Tank
2 hp motor

Thanks, Mikek


Just go buy a new one, that is a small air compressor - not worth bothering
with

Shaun

amdx wrote:
On 12/14/2013 9:34 AM, amdx wrote:
On 12/9/2013 9:26 AM, amdx wrote:
On 12/9/2013 1:48 AM, N_Cook wrote:
On 09/12/2013 00:20, amdx wrote:

Sanford Manufacturing
Model 104A200-22
22 Gallon Tank
2 hp motor

Thanks, Mikek


I'm still having a problem.
I ordered a new pressure switch,
http://www.amazon.com/Pressure-switc...ef=pd_sim_hi_2

I have plumbed and wired it.
As I said before, the compressor has two outlets, one 3/8" and a smaller
one 1/4". The larger I connected to the tank, the smaller goes to the
unloader on the pressure switch.
The motor will start and then shortly the circuit breaker pops.
The air intake does has air coming out in puffs.
My next step will be opening the unloader tube to see if the
compressor will keep running. ( I think i might) but I don't know what
that means. I'll also change outlets, maybe I just have a weak breaker,
but I doubt it.
Later today, I'll take some pictures, maybe someone can see what I've
done wrong.

Thanks for you suggestions, Mikek



Here's a picture of my plumbing job,
http://s395.photobucket.com/user/Qma...2e455.jpg.html
I did unhook the small tube going to the unloader and the compressor
will run fine. It does not have the air puffing out of the air intake as
before with the unloader tube connected.
I doesn't fill up the tank either, I suspect because all the air is
coming out the unloader tube.
Any ideas?
Thanks, Mikek


You do have the check valve connected in the right direction?

On 12/14/2013 12:11 PM, Tom Miller wrote:

"amdx" wrote in message
...
On 12/14/2013 9:34 AM, amdx wrote:
On 12/9/2013 9:26 AM, amdx wrote:
On 12/9/2013 1:48 AM, N_Cook wrote:
On 09/12/2013 00:20, amdx wrote:

Sanford Manufacturing
Model 104A200-22
22 Gallon Tank
2 hp motor

Thanks, Mikek


I'm still having a problem.
I ordered a new pressure switch,
http://www.amazon.com/Pressure-switc...ef=pd_sim_hi_2


I have plumbed and wired it.
As I said before, the compressor has two outlets, one 3/8" and a smaller
one 1/4". The larger I connected to the tank, the smaller goes to the
unloader on the pressure switch.
The motor will start and then shortly the circuit breaker pops.
The air intake does has air coming out in puffs.
My next step will be opening the unloader tube to see if the
compressor will keep running. ( I think i might) but I don't know what
that means. I'll also change outlets, maybe I just have a weak breaker,
but I doubt it.
Later today, I'll take some pictures, maybe someone can see what I've
done wrong.

Thanks for you suggestions, Mikek



Here's a picture of my plumbing job,
http://s395.photobucket.com/user/Qma...2e455.jpg.html

I did unhook the small tube going to the unloader and the compressor
will run fine. It does not have the air puffing out of the air intake
as before with the unloader tube connected.
I doesn't fill up the tank either, I suspect because all the air is
coming out the unloader tube.
Any ideas?
Thanks, Mikek


Where is the check valve? How many connections does the tank have? Where
does the pressure switch connect to the tank?


I have found the problem. Half of the check valve is part of a
manifold. The manifold should hold a spring to push the ball against
the seat. No Spring!
Thanks, Mikek

On 12/14/2013 3:05 PM, Jerry Peters wrote:
amdx wrote:
On 12/14/2013 9:34 AM, amdx wrote:
On 12/9/2013 9:26 AM, amdx wrote:
On 12/9/2013 1:48 AM, N_Cook wrote:
On 09/12/2013 00:20, amdx wrote:

Sanford Manufacturing
Model 104A200-22
22 Gallon Tank
2 hp motor

Thanks, Mikek


I'm still having a problem.
I ordered a new pressure switch,
http://www.amazon.com/Pressure-switc...ef=pd_sim_hi_2

I have plumbed and wired it.
As I said before, the compressor has two outlets, one 3/8" and a smaller
one 1/4". The larger I connected to the tank, the smaller goes to the
unloader on the pressure switch.
The motor will start and then shortly the circuit breaker pops.
The air intake does has air coming out in puffs.
My next step will be opening the unloader tube to see if the
compressor will keep running. ( I think i might) but I don't know what
that means. I'll also change outlets, maybe I just have a weak breaker,
but I doubt it.
Later today, I'll take some pictures, maybe someone can see what I've
done wrong.

Thanks for you suggestions, Mikek



Here's a picture of my plumbing job,
http://s395.photobucket.com/user/Qma...2e455.jpg.html
I did unhook the small tube going to the unloader and the compressor
will run fine. It does not have the air puffing out of the air intake as
before with the unloader tube connected.
I doesn't fill up the tank either, I suspect because all the air is
coming out the unloader tube.
Any ideas?
Thanks, Mikek


You do have the check valve connected in the right direction?

I have found the problem. Half of the check valve is part of a
manifold. The manifold should hold a spring to push the ball against
the seat. No Spring!
Thanks, Mikek

On 12/14/2013 4:26 PM, amdx wrote:
On 12/14/2013 3:05 PM, Jerry Peters wrote:
amdx wrote:
On 12/14/2013 9:34 AM, amdx wrote:
On 12/9/2013 9:26 AM, amdx wrote:
On 12/9/2013 1:48 AM, N_Cook wrote:
On 09/12/2013 00:20, amdx wrote:

Sanford Manufacturing
Model 104A200-22
22 Gallon Tank
2 hp motor

Thanks, Mikek


I'm still having a problem.
I ordered a new pressure switch,
http://www.amazon.com/Pressure-switc...ef=pd_sim_hi_2


I have plumbed and wired it.
As I said before, the compressor has two outlets, one 3/8" and a
smaller
one 1/4". The larger I connected to the tank, the smaller goes to the
unloader on the pressure switch.
The motor will start and then shortly the circuit breaker pops.
The air intake does has air coming out in puffs.
My next step will be opening the unloader tube to see if the
compressor will keep running. ( I think i might) but I don't know what
that means. I'll also change outlets, maybe I just have a weak breaker,
but I doubt it.
Later today, I'll take some pictures, maybe someone can see what
I've
done wrong.

Thanks for you suggestions, Mikek



Here's a picture of my plumbing job,
http://s395.photobucket.com/user/Qma...2e455.jpg.html

I did unhook the small tube going to the unloader and the compressor
will run fine. It does not have the air puffing out of the air intake as
before with the unloader tube connected.
I doesn't fill up the tank either, I suspect because all the air is
coming out the unloader tube.
Any ideas?
Thanks, Mikek


You do have the check valve connected in the right direction?

I have found the problem. Half of the check valve is part of a
manifold. The manifold should hold a spring to push the ball against
the seat. No Spring!
Thanks, Mikek

Thanks for all the help guys, I bought a kit of springs at Home Depot,
found one that looked right, installed it and it worked. I adjusted the
pressure cut off switch for a lower pressure, it was factory adjusted
90/125. I changed it to 80/105.
Thanks, Mikek

"amdx" wrote in message
...
On 12/14/2013 4:26 PM, amdx wrote:
On 12/14/2013 3:05 PM, Jerry Peters wrote:
amdx wrote:
On 12/14/2013 9:34 AM, amdx wrote:
On 12/9/2013 9:26 AM, amdx wrote:
On 12/9/2013 1:48 AM, N_Cook wrote:
On 09/12/2013 00:20, amdx wrote:

Sanford Manufacturing
Model 104A200-22
22 Gallon Tank
2 hp motor

Thanks, Mikek


I'm still having a problem.
I ordered a new pressure switch,
http://www.amazon.com/Pressure-switc...ef=pd_sim_hi_2


I have plumbed and wired it.
As I said before, the compressor has two outlets, one 3/8" and a
smaller
one 1/4". The larger I connected to the tank, the smaller goes to the
unloader on the pressure switch.
The motor will start and then shortly the circuit breaker pops.
The air intake does has air coming out in puffs.
My next step will be opening the unloader tube to see if the
compressor will keep running. ( I think i might) but I don't know what
that means. I'll also change outlets, maybe I just have a weak
breaker,
but I doubt it.
Later today, I'll take some pictures, maybe someone can see what
I've
done wrong.

Thanks for you suggestions, Mikek



Here's a picture of my plumbing job,
http://s395.photobucket.com/user/Qma...2e455.jpg.html

I did unhook the small tube going to the unloader and the compressor
will run fine. It does not have the air puffing out of the air intake
as
before with the unloader tube connected.
I doesn't fill up the tank either, I suspect because all the air is
coming out the unloader tube.
Any ideas?
Thanks, Mikek


You do have the check valve connected in the right direction?

I have found the problem. Half of the check valve is part of a
manifold. The manifold should hold a spring to push the ball against
the seat. No Spring!
Thanks, Mikek

Thanks for all the help guys, I bought a kit of springs at Home Depot,
found one that looked right, installed it and it worked. I adjusted the
pressure cut off switch for a lower pressure, it was factory adjusted
90/125. I changed it to 80/105.
Thanks, Mikek

Good job Mike. Much cheaper than a new compressor. Be sure to check the
drain at the bottom of the tank. You don't want a lot (or any) of water
building up inside.

On 12/14/2013 7:08 PM, Tom Miller wrote:

"amdx" wrote in message
...
On 12/14/2013 4:26 PM, amdx wrote:
On 12/14/2013 3:05 PM, Jerry Peters wrote:
amdx wrote:
On 12/14/2013 9:34 AM, amdx wrote:
On 12/9/2013 9:26 AM, amdx wrote:
On 12/9/2013 1:48 AM, N_Cook wrote:
On 09/12/2013 00:20, amdx wrote:

Sanford Manufacturing
Model 104A200-22
22 Gallon Tank
2 hp motor

Thanks, Mikek


I'm still having a problem.
I ordered a new pressure switch,
http://www.amazon.com/Pressure-switc...ef=pd_sim_hi_2



I have plumbed and wired it.
As I said before, the compressor has two outlets, one 3/8" and a
smaller
one 1/4". The larger I connected to the tank, the smaller goes to the
unloader on the pressure switch.
The motor will start and then shortly the circuit breaker pops.
The air intake does has air coming out in puffs.
My next step will be opening the unloader tube to see if the
compressor will keep running. ( I think i might) but I don't know
what
that means. I'll also change outlets, maybe I just have a weak
breaker,
but I doubt it.
Later today, I'll take some pictures, maybe someone can see what
I've
done wrong.

Thanks for you suggestions, Mikek



Here's a picture of my plumbing job,
http://s395.photobucket.com/user/Qma...2e455.jpg.html


I did unhook the small tube going to the unloader and the compressor
will run fine. It does not have the air puffing out of the air
intake as
before with the unloader tube connected.
I doesn't fill up the tank either, I suspect because all the air is
coming out the unloader tube.
Any ideas?
Thanks, Mikek


You do have the check valve connected in the right direction?

I have found the problem. Half of the check valve is part of a
manifold. The manifold should hold a spring to push the ball against
the seat. No Spring!
Thanks, Mikek

Thanks for all the help guys, I bought a kit of springs at Home Depot,
found one that looked right, installed it and it worked. I adjusted the
pressure cut off switch for a lower pressure, it was factory adjusted
90/125. I changed it to 80/105.
Thanks, Mikek

Good job Mike. Much cheaper than a new compressor. Be sure to check the
drain at the bottom of the tank. You don't want a lot (or any) of water
building up inside.

Thanks, I'll check the drain.
I was talking with my wife, figuring out when I got the compressor.
It was some of my dads stuff that I got when he died a little over 10
years ago. I have another smaller compressor so I never cared to much
about getting this one working. It the process of pressurizing the
pontoons on a boat to pump water out, I thought I might need it.
Turned out to be easier to drill a 1-1/2" hole in the pontoon and pump
the water out.
But, I'm glad to have it working now!

Thanks Mikek