Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Old April 11th 13, 11:19 PM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Default Help: Hougen Magnetic Drill Problem

I have a Hougen Magnetic Drill that is not working.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...pse1f7add1.jpg

The Magnet itself seems to work, but the drill portion doesn't. Not counting when it turned on a couple of times two days ago, making me think that there was a possible intermittent break somewhere in the connections.

I opened it up and tinkered with the safety switch adjustment screw, but that wasn't the problem.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psf865d83a.jpg

The safety switch is located on the bottom of the drill. The bottom of the drill must be flat against the metal surface in order for the drill to power on. (See the two buttons at the bottom):
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps3e32a032.jpg

The third button in the center is I believe also a safety switch that will cut power to the motor if the drill's magnetic base drifts as much as 1/2".

I assumed that there is nothing wrong with the AC cord because the magnet portion works, so using my Fluke 79III multimeter on the Ohm setting I tested the start and the stop buttons. There was activity on the Multimeter's display screen when I press either, so I assume that there is no break, at least as far as where those leads connect to the circuit board.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps3495c450.jpg

Would it be plausible to re-flow the solder on the circuit board in case there is a cold solder joint somewhere?

I can't travel several hours round trip to spend $65 an hour at an authorized repair location, so any advice on how to proceed would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

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Old April 12th 13, 02:12 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Posts: 3,901
Default Help: Hougen Magnetic Drill Problem

On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 15:19:43 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I have a Hougen Magnetic Drill that is not working.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...pse1f7add1.jpg
(...)
Would it be plausible to re-flow the solder on the circuit board in case there is a cold solder joint somewhere?


Yes. Take a photograph of the various plugs so that you can put it
back together correctly. Unplug everything. Wiggle the connectors
and you'll probably find the "cold" solder joint. Reflow the solder
connections using the same type of solder that was originally used
(Lead-Tin or RoHS type). Clean off the flux. If you try to solder it
with the connectors plugged in, you'll either solder the connectors
together, or melt the plastic insulators. Also, look for "insulation
crimps" on the wire plug ends.

However, I don't think that's the problem. My crystal ball suggests
that the brushes on the motor may be the culprit. Try using your ohms
guesser on the brush contacts and see if the motor presents a few
ohms. Also spin the drive shaft to see if you don't have an "flat
spots" on the commutator. Of course, visually inspect the brushes.

If that looks ok, it's probably something between the power and the
drill motor, which is infested with interlock switches. Each should
be checked individually with the ohms guesser for continuity.

Incidentally, I failed to find a schematic or wiring diagram online.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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Old April 12th 13, 02:26 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Posts: 3,901
Default Help: Hougen Magnetic Drill Problem

On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 18:12:39 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

Incidentally, I failed to find a schematic or wiring diagram online.


I found the shop manual. It shows the PCB details but no schematic.
Check if it's wired correctly.
http://www.hougen.com/downloads/drill_pdf/904/OM9041208.pdf

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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Old April 12th 13, 07:40 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Posts: 2,001
Default Hougen Magnetic Drill Problem

I believe Jeff is steering you in the right direction. Worn brushes and
weakened brush springs can lead to intermittent/no contact between the
brushes and the commutator bars.
With something softer than a hammer head (block of wood for example) tap on
the left side, then the right side of the drill motor housing near the top,
tryinng to power the drill after each side is tapped.
If this method results in the motor running, it's liely that the brushes and
springs may need replaced, but cleaning the brush holders may allow
sufficient brush contact.. but the parts may still be required for a proper
repair.

When removing brushes, it's a good practice to keep them apart so they can
be put back in the holder they came out of.. and also to scratch a small
mark on a long side of the brush to indicate the top or end of the motor so
they can be put back in the correct orientation.

Aside from loose connections or brush problems, it appears as though the
motor is turned on/off by a relay on the circuit board. A click noise mat be
noticeable when the start-stop buttons are pressed.
Checking for correct operation of the relay can be performed a couple of
different ways.. definitely check it with the power cord unplugged if you
aren't familiar with working on powered equipment.
If the relay doesn't appear to be reacting to the start-stop buttons, it may
be faulty. If you can desolder the relay to remove it from the board, it can
be checked out-of-circuit with an ohm meter and small power supply or
magnet.

For testing with power applied, only if one is experienced and familiar with
safe testing methods.. using a 120V light bulb instead of the motor,
connected to the circuit board motor leads would allow the relay check to be
performed without the additional concern regarding rotating parts during
testing.

--
Cheers,
WB
..............


wrote in message
...
I have a Hougen Magnetic Drill that is not working.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...pse1f7add1.jpg

The Magnet itself seems to work, but the drill portion doesn't. Not counting
when it turned on a couple of times two days ago, making me think that there
was a possible intermittent break somewhere in the connections.

I opened it up and tinkered with the safety switch adjustment screw, but
that wasn't the problem.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psf865d83a.jpg

The safety switch is located on the bottom of the drill. The bottom of the
drill must be flat against the metal surface in order for the drill to power
on. (See the two buttons at the bottom):
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps3e32a032.jpg

The third button in the center is I believe also a safety switch that will
cut power to the motor if the drill's magnetic base drifts as much as 1/2".

I assumed that there is nothing wrong with the AC cord because the magnet
portion works, so using my Fluke 79III multimeter on the Ohm setting I
tested the start and the stop buttons. There was activity on the
Multimeter's display screen when I press either, so I assume that there is
no break, at least as far as where those leads connect to the circuit board.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps3495c450.jpg

Would it be plausible to re-flow the solder on the circuit board in case
there is a cold solder joint somewhere?

I can't travel several hours round trip to spend $65 an hour at an
authorized repair location, so any advice on how to proceed would be
appreciated.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

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Old April 12th 13, 08:25 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Posts: 5,182
Default Help: Hougen Magnetic Drill Problem

wrote in message
...
I have a Hougen Magnetic Drill that is not working.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...Hougen3_zpse1f
7add1.jpg

The Magnet itself seems to work, but the drill portion doesn't. Not counting
when it turned on a couple of times two days ago, making me think that there
was a possible intermittent break somewhere in the connections.

I opened it up and tinkered with the safety switch adjustment screw, but
that wasn't the problem.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...HougenSafetySw
itchAdjustmentScrew_zpsf865d83a.jpg

The safety switch is located on the bottom of the drill. The bottom of the
drill must be flat against the metal surface in order for the drill to power
on. (See the two buttons at the bottom):
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...HougenBottom-S
afetySwitch_zps3e32a032.jpg

The third button in the center is I believe also a safety switch that will
cut power to the motor if the drill's magnetic base drifts as much as 1/2".

I assumed that there is nothing wrong with the AC cord because the magnet
portion works, so using my Fluke 79III multimeter on the Ohm setting I
tested the start and the stop buttons. There was activity on the
Multimeter's display screen when I press either, so I assume that there is
no break, at least as far as where those leads connect to the circuit board.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...HougenStart-St
opConnectors_zps3495c450.jpg

Would it be plausible to re-flow the solder on the circuit board in case
there is a cold solder joint somewhere?

I can't travel several hours round trip to spend $65 an hour at an
authorized repair location, so any advice on how to proceed would be
appreciated.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

+++++

'scuse my ingnorance , but
do the magnets in the base really hold the drill static on to sheet steel,
opposing all the reactive torques and forces of large cutting bits?




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Old April 12th 13, 01:35 PM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,930
Default Help: Hougen Magnetic Drill Problem


wrote:

I have a Hougen Magnetic Drill that is not working.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...pse1f7add1.jpg

The Magnet itself seems to work, but the drill portion doesn't. Not counting when it turned on a couple of times two days ago, making me think that there was a possible intermittent break somewhere in the connections.

I opened it up and tinkered with the safety switch adjustment screw, but that wasn't the problem.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...psf865d83a.jpg

The safety switch is located on the bottom of the drill. The bottom of the drill must be flat against the metal surface in order for the drill to power on. (See the two buttons at the bottom):
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps3e32a032.jpg

The third button in the center is I believe also a safety switch that will cut power to the motor if the drill's magnetic base drifts as much as 1/2".

I assumed that there is nothing wrong with the AC cord because the magnet portion works, so using my Fluke 79III multimeter on the Ohm setting I tested the start and the stop buttons. There was activity on the Multimeter's display screen when I press either, so I assume that there is no break, at least as far as where those leads connect to the circuit board.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps3495c450.jpg

Would it be plausible to re-flow the solder on the circuit board in case there is a cold solder joint somewhere?

I can't travel several hours round trip to spend $65 an hour at an authorized repair location, so any advice on how to proceed would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.



Have you asked on news:rec.crafts.metalworking where there are a
number of people who own these tools?
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Old April 13th 13, 12:38 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Posts: 187
Default Help: Hougen Magnetic Drill Problem

On 12/04/13 15:25, N_Cook wrote:
wrote in message
...
I have a Hougen Magnetic Drill that is not working.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...Hougen3_zpse1f
7add1.jpg

The Magnet itself seems to work, but the drill portion doesn't. Not counting
when it turned on a couple of times two days ago, making me think that there
was a possible intermittent break somewhere in the connections.

I opened it up and tinkered with the safety switch adjustment screw, but
that wasn't the problem.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...HougenSafetySw
itchAdjustmentScrew_zpsf865d83a.jpg

The safety switch is located on the bottom of the drill. The bottom of the
drill must be flat against the metal surface in order for the drill to power
on. (See the two buttons at the bottom):
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...HougenBottom-S
afetySwitch_zps3e32a032.jpg

The third button in the center is I believe also a safety switch that will
cut power to the motor if the drill's magnetic base drifts as much as 1/2".

I assumed that there is nothing wrong with the AC cord because the magnet
portion works, so using my Fluke 79III multimeter on the Ohm setting I
tested the start and the stop buttons. There was activity on the
Multimeter's display screen when I press either, so I assume that there is
no break, at least as far as where those leads connect to the circuit board.
http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...HougenStart-St
opConnectors_zps3495c450.jpg

Would it be plausible to re-flow the solder on the circuit board in case
there is a cold solder joint somewhere?

I can't travel several hours round trip to spend $65 an hour at an
authorized repair location, so any advice on how to proceed would be
appreciated.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

+++++

'scuse my ingnorance , but
do the magnets in the base really hold the drill static on to sheet steel,
opposing all the reactive torques and forces of large cutting bits?


Yup, they surely do !! Widely used in construction work in my day
(palentonic :-) .
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Old April 13th 13, 06:52 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Posts: 3,901
Default Help: Hougen Magnetic Drill Problem

On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 18:26:04 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 18:12:39 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

Incidentally, I failed to find a schematic or wiring diagram online.


I found the shop manual. It shows the PCB details but no schematic.
Check if it's wired correctly.
http://www.hougen.com/downloads/drill_pdf/904/OM9041208.pdf


Some photos of a similar drill, in case the wiring isn't clear.
(What a mess):
http://www.compusyssolutions.com/2011/04/hougen-power-feed-magnetic-drill/

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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Old April 13th 13, 07:09 AM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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First recorded activity by DIYBanter: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,901
Default Help: Hougen Magnetic Drill Problem

On Fri, 12 Apr 2013 08:25:48 +0100, "N_Cook"
wrote:

'scuse my ingnorance , but
do the magnets in the base really hold the drill static on to sheet steel,
opposing all the reactive torques and forces of large cutting bits?


Lots of videos showing such drills in action on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=hougen+magnetic+drill
If for some reason, the magentic base disconnects from the base metal
being drilled, a lift interlock switch will kill the power to the
drill motor. The usual mistake is to leave some chips or debris
between the magnetic base and the base metal.





--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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Old April 14th 13, 08:17 PM posted to sci.electronics.repair
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Posts: 58
Default Help: Hougen Magnetic Drill Problem

On Thursday, April 11, 2013 9:12:39 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 11 Apr 2013 15:19:43 -0700 (PDT),

wrote:



I have a Hougen Magnetic Drill that is not working.


http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...pse1f7add1.jpg

(...)

Would it be plausible to re-flow the solder on the circuit board in case there is a cold solder joint somewhere?




Yes. Take a photograph of the various plugs so that you can put it

back together correctly. Unplug everything. Wiggle the connectors

and you'll probably find the "cold" solder joint. Reflow the solder

connections using the same type of solder that was originally used

(Lead-Tin or RoHS type). Clean off the flux. If you try to solder it

with the connectors plugged in, you'll either solder the connectors

together, or melt the plastic insulators. Also, look for "insulation

crimps" on the wire plug ends.



However, I don't think that's the problem. My crystal ball suggests

that the brushes on the motor may be the culprit. Try using your ohms

guesser on the brush contacts and see if the motor presents a few

ohms. Also spin the drive shaft to see if you don't have an "flat

spots" on the commutator. Of course, visually inspect the brushes.



If that looks ok, it's probably something between the power and the

drill motor, which is infested with interlock switches. Each should

be checked individually with the ohms guesser for continuity.



Incidentally, I failed to find a schematic or wiring diagram online.



--

Jeff Liebermann

150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com

Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com

Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


Here are the Manuals for my model:
http://www.hougen.com/downloads/10904.pdf
http://www.hougen.com/downloads/misc...structions.pdf
http://www.hougen.com/downloads/misc...aded_spind.pdf

After taking out the screws I couldn't figure out how to separate the motor housing from the slide. (I tried using a rubber mallet to knock it loose). But I unscrewed the top plate and saw where the brushes were located and then got to them by unscrewing the small circular plastic covers at opposite sides near the top of the drill housing.

http://i290.photobucket.com/albums/l...ps466ba0d6.jpg

How do I know they are still good? (The rectangular brushes are about 1/2" x 5/8" x 3/16").

Anyway, I put the drill back together and while progressively manipulating the safety switch adjustment between power up tries I got to the point where the drill would turn on, which it wouldn't do before.

So I'm still at a loss as to what the problem was. I probably didn't re-insert the brushes *exactly* the way I took them out and was wondering if that might be the reason it is working now.

What other procedures should I undertake before I start re-flowing solder on the control PCB? (Since I have to sell the drill I want to be sure it is working properly). Can anyone tell me where I can find new brushes?

Thanks a lot.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.


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