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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
Posted to rec.antiques.radio+phono,sci.electronics.repair
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circuit board material of the 1960s
Bill wrote in message
... On 10/6/2011 10:46 AM, Dave Heil wrote: On 10/5/2011 15 35, Jeffrey Angus wrote: On 10/5/2011 10:16 AM, N_Cook wrote: No etching of this material. Plain board , punched to take eyelets and then wires or component leads fed through the eyelet and soldered. Very dark grey almost black , well 40-50 years on it is I believe what you're referring to is called "fish paper". A heavy, stiff grey/black cardboard. Phenolic was between orange and brown, considerably stiffer and would crack if bent. Commonly used at the time for those tag strips. Having rows of turret terminals down both sides. A lot of "That turned out to be a bad idea" techniques were attempted in the late '50s through the early '70s to eliminate point to point chassis wiring. Not all items, and especially "consumer" items were designed with the idea "This should last forever". That as many items built as far back as the '20s are still serviceable is more by accident and over engineering that by conscience design. It is indeed fish paper and a really heavy version of it. I've seen a number of amps where it has held up well. I'd guess these were stored not in garages or basements but in interior rooms or closets. will a penetrating epoxy poured onto it fix the problem? it would at least prevent/block moisture. It requires some knowledge of the failure mode first, which so far in this thread has not been explored. Because of its microphonic behaviour I suspect some sort of capacitance efffect. Hinted at by it only seems necessary to separate the "active" board and the backing insulation "grounded" board to stop the rustle and microphony. More permanent fix by securing some rigid paxolin FRPB between the 2 boards. I suspect something in the core of the material goes conductive enough to create a capacitor surface around high voltage points. |
#2
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circuit board material of the 1960s
On 10/7/2011 12:36 AM, N_Cook wrote:
wrote in message ... On 10/6/2011 10:46 AM, Dave Heil wrote: On 10/5/2011 15 35, Jeffrey Angus wrote: On 10/5/2011 10:16 AM, N_Cook wrote: No etching of this material. Plain board , punched to take eyelets and then wires or component leads fed through the eyelet and soldered. Very dark grey almost black , well 40-50 years on it is I believe what you're referring to is called "fish paper". A heavy, stiff grey/black cardboard. Phenolic was between orange and brown, considerably stiffer and would crack if bent. Commonly used at the time for those tag strips. Having rows of turret terminals down both sides. A lot of "That turned out to be a bad idea" techniques were attempted in the late '50s through the early '70s to eliminate point to point chassis wiring. Not all items, and especially "consumer" items were designed with the idea "This should last forever". That as many items built as far back as the '20s are still serviceable is more by accident and over engineering that by conscience design. It is indeed fish paper and a really heavy version of it. I've seen a number of amps where it has held up well. I'd guess these were stored not in garages or basements but in interior rooms or closets. will a penetrating epoxy poured onto it fix the problem? it would at least prevent/block moisture. It requires some knowledge of the failure mode first, which so far in this thread has not been explored. Because of its microphonic behaviour I suspect some sort of capacitance efffect. Hinted at by it only seems necessary to separate the "active" board and the backing insulation "grounded" board to stop the rustle and microphony. More permanent fix by securing some rigid paxolin FRPB between the 2 boards. I suspect something in the core of the material goes conductive enough to create a capacitor surface around high voltage points. my guess about the penetrating epoxy is that it would turn the stuff into a sort of instant FRP |
#3
Posted to rec.antiques.radio+phono,sci.electronics.repair
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circuit board material of the 1960s
Bill wrote in message
... On 10/7/2011 12:36 AM, N_Cook wrote: wrote in message ... On 10/6/2011 10:46 AM, Dave Heil wrote: On 10/5/2011 15 35, Jeffrey Angus wrote: On 10/5/2011 10:16 AM, N_Cook wrote: No etching of this material. Plain board , punched to take eyelets and then wires or component leads fed through the eyelet and soldered. Very dark grey almost black , well 40-50 years on it is I believe what you're referring to is called "fish paper". A heavy, stiff grey/black cardboard. Phenolic was between orange and brown, considerably stiffer and would crack if bent. Commonly used at the time for those tag strips. Having rows of turret terminals down both sides. A lot of "That turned out to be a bad idea" techniques were attempted in the late '50s through the early '70s to eliminate point to point chassis wiring. Not all items, and especially "consumer" items were designed with the idea "This should last forever". That as many items built as far back as the '20s are still serviceable is more by accident and over engineering that by conscience design. It is indeed fish paper and a really heavy version of it. I've seen a number of amps where it has held up well. I'd guess these were stored not in garages or basements but in interior rooms or closets. will a penetrating epoxy poured onto it fix the problem? it would at least prevent/block moisture. It requires some knowledge of the failure mode first, which so far in this thread has not been explored. Because of its microphonic behaviour I suspect some sort of capacitance efffect. Hinted at by it only seems necessary to separate the "active" board and the backing insulation "grounded" board to stop the rustle and microphony. More permanent fix by securing some rigid paxolin FRPB between the 2 boards. I suspect something in the core of the material goes conductive enough to create a capacitor surface around high voltage points. my guess about the penetrating epoxy is that it would turn the stuff into a sort of instant FRP But any conductive pathway in the core would remain unaffected |
#4
Posted to rec.antiques.radio+phono,sci.electronics.repair
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circuit board material of the 1960s
On Sat, 08 Oct 2011 08:07:32 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
Bill wrote in message ... On 10/7/2011 12:36 AM, N_Cook wrote: wrote in message ... On 10/6/2011 10:46 AM, Dave Heil wrote: On 10/5/2011 15 35, Jeffrey Angus wrote: On 10/5/2011 10:16 AM, N_Cook wrote: No etching of this material. Plain board , punched to take eyelets and then wires or component leads fed through the eyelet and soldered. Very dark grey almost black , well 40-50 years on it is I believe what you're referring to is called "fish paper". A heavy, stiff grey/black cardboard. Phenolic was between orange and brown, considerably stiffer and would crack if bent. Commonly used at the time for those tag strips. Having rows of turret terminals down both sides. A lot of "That turned out to be a bad idea" techniques were attempted in the late '50s through the early '70s to eliminate point to point chassis wiring. Not all items, and especially "consumer" items were designed with the idea "This should last forever". That as many items built as far back as the '20s are still serviceable is more by accident and over engineering that by conscience design. It is indeed fish paper and a really heavy version of it. I've seen a number of amps where it has held up well. I'd guess these were stored not in garages or basements but in interior rooms or closets. will a penetrating epoxy poured onto it fix the problem? it would at least prevent/block moisture. It requires some knowledge of the failure mode first, which so far in this thread has not been explored. Because of its microphonic behaviour I suspect some sort of capacitance efffect. Hinted at by it only seems necessary to separate the "active" board and the backing insulation "grounded" board to stop the rustle and microphony. More permanent fix by securing some rigid paxolin FRPB between the 2 boards. I suspect something in the core of the material goes conductive enough to create a capacitor surface around high voltage points. my guess about the penetrating epoxy is that it would turn the stuff into a sort of instant FRP But any conductive pathway in the core would remain unaffected Bake in 250 degree oven for 2 hours first, allow to cool naturally, then seal. |
#5
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circuit board material of the 1960s
On 10/8/2011 9:04 AM, dave wrote:
Bake in 250 degree oven for 2 hours first, allow to cool naturally, then seal. How does that fix any carbon pathing that developed? Jeff -- "Everything from Crackers to Coffins" |
#6
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circuit board material of the 1960s
Jeffrey Angus wrote in message
... On 10/8/2011 9:04 AM, dave wrote: Bake in 250 degree oven for 2 hours first, allow to cool naturally, then seal. How does that fix any carbon pathing that developed? Jeff -- "Everything from Crackers to Coffins" I had also assumed the problem although initially through humidity take-up , the rustling (rather than a louder crackling ) problem, I could only see as microscopic discharges somewhere in the core of the material. Separating the 2 boards with PRFB and insulating the fixing screw that passes between the 2 stops it , presumably because the pd through the short run of board to the ground is now a longer path - not cured , just delayed. If you knew where the conductive paths were , it may be possible to route/grind slots into the board to cure or preclude these problems |
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