For remote controls that have been properly cleaned out and still
don't work like new, I understand some conductive material needs to be
coated onto the circuit board contacts on the inside of the pad
buttons. Reviewing web discussions of this I wonder if a good approach
may be to mix graphite in silicone glue and lightly coat the surface
of the pad's underside. Anyone tried this or have a thought on it?
Others have used electrically conductive paint (e.g., that purchased
at auto supply stores to reconduct broken rear window defrost
circuits) but that would not seem to be as flexible as silicone glue
with conductive material mixed in it. I did read where someone mixed
finely shredded copper (from pipe) with thinly diluted white glue and
it worked well (but for how long?). It would seem that the latter
approach would be better if silicone glue was used, as it is more
flexible. What ye think?

"Thomas Williams"

For remote controls that have been properly cleaned out and still
don't work like new, I understand some conductive material needs to be
coated onto the circuit board contacts on the inside of the pad
buttons. Reviewing web discussions of this I wonder if a good approach
may be to mix graphite in silicone glue and lightly coat the surface
of the pad's underside. Anyone tried this or have a thought on it?


** Think the graphite might simply dissolve in the silicone adhesive and the
surface remain non conducting.

Conductive glues are rare animals for this reason.

Why don't YOU try it ??



..... Phil

"Jamie the Radio Ham "


** Post only to the OP - you ****ing, ****wit.

I'm not the one with the problem.





...... Phil

Phil Allison wrote:

"Thomas Williams"

For remote controls that have been properly cleaned out and still
don't work like new, I understand some conductive material needs to be
coated onto the circuit board contacts on the inside of the pad
buttons. Reviewing web discussions of this I wonder if a good approach
may be to mix graphite in silicone glue and lightly coat the surface
of the pad's underside. Anyone tried this or have a thought on it?



** Think the graphite might simply dissolve in the silicone adhesive and the
surface remain non conducting.

Conductive glues are rare animals for this reason.

Why don't YOU try it ??



.... Phil






http://www.wikihow.com/Repair-a-Remote-Control

Phil Allison wrote:


I'm not the one with the problem.

Are you sure ?


..... Phil

"Jamie the ****wit Radio Ham "


** Post only to the OP - you ****ing, ****wit.

The OP has the problem.





...... Phil

On Sat, 8 Jan 2011 11:49:26 -0800 (PST), Thomas Williams
wrote:

For remote controls that have been properly cleaned out and still
don't work like new, I understand some conductive material needs to be
coated onto the circuit board contacts on the inside of the pad
buttons. Reviewing web discussions of this I wonder if a good approach
may be to mix graphite in silicone glue and lightly coat the surface
of the pad's underside. Anyone tried this or have a thought on it?
Others have used electrically conductive paint (e.g., that purchased
at auto supply stores to reconduct broken rear window defrost
circuits) but that would not seem to be as flexible as silicone glue
with conductive material mixed in it. I did read where someone mixed
finely shredded copper (from pipe) with thinly diluted white glue and
it worked well (but for how long?). It would seem that the latter
approach would be better if silicone glue was used, as it is more
flexible. What ye think?

I use conductive paste:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/manuals/p8/rs-rf.shtml?15-1995#wornout
http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/specialized_maintenance_repair/auto_glass_lens_repair/Permatex_Quick_Grid_Rear_Window_Defogger_Repair_Ki t.htm

If available, I've also used Aquadag (water based graphite paste).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquadag

Before you attack, clean both the graphite button bottom and the gold
contacts on the PCB with alcohol. It might just be grease on the
contacts.

The problem with mixing your own conductive graphite concoction is
that only a few formulations are actually conductive. If you don't
add enough graphite, or the graphite particles are too small, they
will not touch each other and therefore will not be conductive. I've
tried to make my own conductive glue with powdered aluminum and epoxy.
It failed badly and was mostly an insulator. I eventually got it to
conduct by radically adjusting the aluminum to epoxy ratio, but with
little epoxy to act as a binder, it was terminally brittle.

Anyway, try it. You might get lucky and find the right combination of
grain size and graphite to glue ratio. Test with an ohms guesser.
Your remote should work with anything less than about 1,000 ohms per
square, but I'm guessing:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sheet_resistance


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Sat, 08 Jan 2011 19:36:13 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

I use conductive paste:
http://www.hifi-remote.com/manuals/p8/rs-rf.shtml?15-1995#wornout
http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/specialized_maintenance_repair/auto_glass_lens_repair/Permatex_Quick_Grid_Rear_Window_Defogger_Repair_Ki t.htm
If available, I've also used Aquadag (water based graphite paste).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquadag

One mo
http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Conductive-Glue-and-Glue-a-Circuit/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Conductive-Glue-And-Conductive-Thread-Make-an-LED/step1/Make-Conductive-Glue-Conductive-Paint-and-Conduc/
I haven't tried these but they sure look plausible.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Phil Allison" wrote in message
...
Conductive glues are rare animals for this reason.

I ran the abut in this problem a few years ago. Previously, disassembly
and cleanout with detergent water worked to perk up a balking RC. But a few
years later, that did not solve all dropouts. I took to scrubbing the little
rubber conducting boots with lacquer thinner, but that still did not solve
eve half the dropouts.

My last resort was to add an aluminum foil bits the size of the
footprint to each contact. That perked up about half the dropouts, still not
good enough for serious cassette and DVD watching where the program content
was recorded off of standard broadcast with its weighty commercial content.

As a "last" resort (there is really always "just-one-more" to be found),
I went to mother Radio Shack and bought a universal control. It included my
VCR and TV codes, so now I'm back to 95% RC functioning (nothing's perfect).

Ange

Thomas Williams wrote in message
...
For remote controls that have been properly cleaned out and still
don't work like new, I understand some conductive material needs to be
coated onto the circuit board contacts on the inside of the pad
buttons. Reviewing web discussions of this I wonder if a good approach
may be to mix graphite in silicone glue and lightly coat the surface
of the pad's underside. Anyone tried this or have a thought on it?
Others have used electrically conductive paint (e.g., that purchased
at auto supply stores to reconduct broken rear window defrost
circuits) but that would not seem to be as flexible as silicone glue
with conductive material mixed in it. I did read where someone mixed
finely shredded copper (from pipe) with thinly diluted white glue and
it worked well (but for how long?). It would seem that the latter
approach would be better if silicone glue was used, as it is more
flexible. What ye think?


Rob pairs (or more if same matrix dimensions) of buttons cut from the pad of
some disused zapper that has much the same size and spacing of buttons.

On Jan 9, 2:57*am, "N_Cook" wrote:
Thomas Williams wrote in message

...

For remote controls that have been properly cleaned out and still
don't work like new, I understand some conductive material needs to be
coated onto the circuit board contacts on the inside of the pad
buttons. Reviewing web discussions of this I wonder if a good approach
may be to mix graphite in silicone glue and lightly coat the surface
of the pad's underside. Anyone tried this or have a thought on it?
Others have used electrically conductive paint (e.g., that purchased
at auto supply stores to reconduct broken rear window defrost
circuits) but that would not seem to be as flexible as silicone glue
with conductive material mixed in it. I did read where someone mixed
finely shredded copper (from pipe) with thinly diluted white glue and
it worked well (but for how long?). It would seem that the latter
approach would be better if silicone glue was used, as it is more
flexible. What ye think?

Rob pairs (or more if same matrix dimensions) of buttons cut from the pad of
some disused zapper that has much the same size and spacing of buttons.

thanks, Jeff. your post was quite helpful (unlike some of the others
here, I won't mention any names ("Phil, Jamie and Angelo" (at least
the latter made an attempt)) will try the window defog preparation
first, then later explore the two articles on making your own . . .

On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 09:06:29 -0800 (PST), Thomas Williams
wrote:

thanks, Jeff. your post was quite helpful (unlike some of the others
here, I won't mention any names ("Phil, Jamie and Angelo" (at least
the latter made an attempt)) will try the window defog preparation
first, then later explore the two articles on making your own . . .

Y'er welcome. It's a common problem. Incidentally, if you're going
to try making your own graphite conductive paste, don't get the bright
idea of using graphite lock lube. To be a lube, the particles must be
spherical, which will not touch each other, and therefore not conduct.
What you want are graphite flakes, which will overlap, and therefore
conduct. Good luck.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann wrote in message
...
On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 09:06:29 -0800 (PST), Thomas Williams
wrote:

thanks, Jeff. your post was quite helpful (unlike some of the others
here, I won't mention any names ("Phil, Jamie and Angelo" (at least
the latter made an attempt)) will try the window defog preparation
first, then later explore the two articles on making your own . . .

Y'er welcome. It's a common problem. Incidentally, if you're going
to try making your own graphite conductive paste, don't get the bright
idea of using graphite lock lube. To be a lube, the particles must be
spherical, which will not touch each other, and therefore not conduct.
What you want are graphite flakes, which will overlap, and therefore
conduct. Good luck.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


Source for guaranteed "flakey" graphite ?

On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 17:40:25 -0000, "N_Cook" wrote:

Jeff Liebermann wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 09:06:29 -0800 (PST), Thomas Williams
wrote:

thanks, Jeff. your post was quite helpful (unlike some of the others
here, I won't mention any names ("Phil, Jamie and Angelo" (at least
the latter made an attempt)) will try the window defog preparation
first, then later explore the two articles on making your own . . .

Y'er welcome. It's a common problem. Incidentally, if you're going
to try making your own graphite conductive paste, don't get the bright
idea of using graphite lock lube. To be a lube, the particles must be
spherical, which will not touch each other, and therefore not conduct.
What you want are graphite flakes, which will overlap, and therefore
conduct. Good luck.

Source for guaranteed "flakey" graphite ?

The author of one of the links I previously mentioned uses
AGS Extra Fine Graphite
from:
http://www.elementalscientific.net/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idProduct=1971

I have a small 4 oz bottle of graphite in the office I got from an
auto body shop. They use it for lubing window and lock mechanisms in
the door. It seems like a lifetime supply.

Doing some more reading, it appears that only some lock lube uses
spherical particles. Most of the cheap stuff is flake, so I guess
it's probably acceptable to use.

Other sources:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM223947446P
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=flake+lubricating+graphite

Mo
http://www.asbury.com/Natural-Flake-Graphite.html

Spherical Graphite (used in lock lube and Li-Ion batteries:
http://www.hpmsgraphite.com/sphericalgraphite.html
http://www.hpmsgraphite.com

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Commercial products exist. See www.mcmelectronics.com

On Jan 9, 1:27*pm, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 17:40:25 -0000, "N_Cook" wrote:
Jeff Liebermann wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 09:06:29 -0800 (PST), Thomas Williams
wrote:

thanks, Jeff. *your post was quite helpful (unlike some of the others
here, I won't mention any names ("Phil, Jamie and Angelo" (at least
the latter made an attempt)) *will try the window defog preparation
first, then later explore the two articles on making your own . . .

Y'er welcome. *It's a common problem. *Incidentally, if you're going
to try making your own graphite conductive paste, don't get the bright
idea of using graphite lock lube. *To be a lube, the particles must be
spherical, which will not touch each other, and therefore not conduct.
What you want are graphite flakes, which will overlap, and therefore
conduct. *Good luck.
Source for guaranteed "flakey" graphite ?

The author of one of the links I previously mentioned uses
* *AGS Extra Fine Graphite
from:
http://www.elementalscientific.net/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idProdu...

I have a small 4 oz bottle of graphite in the office I got from an
auto body shop. *They use it for lubing window and lock mechanisms in
the door. *It seems like a lifetime supply.

Doing some more reading, it appears that only some lock lube uses
spherical particles. *Most of the cheap stuff is flake, so I guess
it's probably acceptable to use.

Other sources:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM223947446P
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&q=flake+lubricating+graphite

Mo
http://www.asbury.com/Natural-Flake-Graphite.html

Spherical Graphite (used in lock lube and Li-Ion batteries:
http://www.hpmsgraphite.com/sphericalgraphite.html
http://www.hpmsgraphite.com

--
Jeff Liebermann * *
150 Felker St #D * *http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann * * AE6KS * *831-336-2558

On Sat, 8 Jan 2011 11:49:26 -0800 (PST), Thomas Williams
wrote:

For remote controls that have been properly cleaned out and still
don't work like new, I understand some conductive material needs to be
coated onto the circuit board contacts on the inside of the pad
buttons. Reviewing web discussions of this I wonder if a good approach
may be to mix graphite in silicone glue and lightly coat the surface
of the pad's underside. Anyone tried this or have a thought on it?
Others have used electrically conductive paint (e.g., that purchased
at auto supply stores to reconduct broken rear window defrost
circuits) but that would not seem to be as flexible as silicone glue
with conductive material mixed in it. I did read where someone mixed
finely shredded copper (from pipe) with thinly diluted white glue and
it worked well (but for how long?). It would seem that the latter
approach would be better if silicone glue was used, as it is more
flexible. What ye think?

There is conductive paint for just this purpose at electronics stores.
Ford Electronics in Fullerton, CA had some. I saw it there. I think
they ship.

FWIW I tried the aluminum foil glued on, I didn't have 100% success.
Since I wanted a 100% working remote control any less than 100% is
failure. I haven't tried the paint.

On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 12:36:16 -0800 (PST), "Ron D."
wrote:

Commercial products exist. See www.mcmelectronics.com

Please note that the original question was about making his own
formulation.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/CAIG-LABORATORIES-K-CK44-G-/200-315
I call your missing link and raise you 4 mo
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/8339.html
http://www.remotecontrolsinc.com/keypad_repair_kit.aspx
http://www.replacementremotes.com/Keypad-Repair-Kit/Buy-Keypad-Repair-Kit-Repair-your-Remote-TV-VCR-DVD-Remote.html
http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/11927-rubber-keypad-repair-kit-cw2605.html

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 8 Jan 2011 11:49:26 -0800 (PST), Thomas Williams
wrote:

For remote controls that have been properly cleaned out and still
don't work like new, I understand some conductive material needs to be
coated onto the circuit board contacts on the inside of the pad
buttons. Reviewing web discussions of this I wonder if a good approach
may be to mix graphite in silicone glue and lightly coat the surface
of the pad's underside. Anyone tried this or have a thought on it?
Others have used electrically conductive paint (e.g., that purchased
at auto supply stores to reconduct broken rear window defrost
circuits) but that would not seem to be as flexible as silicone glue
with conductive material mixed in it. I did read where someone mixed
finely shredded copper (from pipe) with thinly diluted white glue and
it worked well (but for how long?). It would seem that the latter
approach would be better if silicone glue was used, as it is more
flexible. What ye think?

There is conductive paint for just this purpose at electronics stores.
Ford Electronics in Fullerton, CA had some. I saw it there. I think
they ship.

FWIW I tried the aluminum foil glued on, I didn't have 100% success.
Since I wanted a 100% working remote control any less than 100% is
failure. I haven't tried the paint.

How about Aqua-dag? I wonder if it is still available? Used to apply a
conductive coating inside and outside of CRT envelopes.


tm

On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 20:31:52 -0500, "tm"
wrote:


" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 8 Jan 2011 11:49:26 -0800 (PST), Thomas Williams
wrote:

For remote controls that have been properly cleaned out and still
don't work like new, I understand some conductive material needs to be
coated onto the circuit board contacts on the inside of the pad
buttons. Reviewing web discussions of this I wonder if a good approach
may be to mix graphite in silicone glue and lightly coat the surface
of the pad's underside. Anyone tried this or have a thought on it?
Others have used electrically conductive paint (e.g., that purchased
at auto supply stores to reconduct broken rear window defrost
circuits) but that would not seem to be as flexible as silicone glue
with conductive material mixed in it. I did read where someone mixed
finely shredded copper (from pipe) with thinly diluted white glue and
it worked well (but for how long?). It would seem that the latter
approach would be better if silicone glue was used, as it is more
flexible. What ye think?

There is conductive paint for just this purpose at electronics stores.
Ford Electronics in Fullerton, CA had some. I saw it there. I think
they ship.

FWIW I tried the aluminum foil glued on, I didn't have 100% success.
Since I wanted a 100% working remote control any less than 100% is
failure. I haven't tried the paint.

Aqudag won't work, however the Chemtronics remote repair kit works
great. Chuck
How about Aqua-dag? I wonder if it is still available? Used to apply a
conductive coating inside and outside of CRT envelopes.


tm

Thomas Williams wrote:
For remote controls that have been properly cleaned out and still
don't work like new, I understand some conductive material needs to be
coated onto the circuit board contacts on the inside of the pad
buttons. Reviewing web discussions of this I wonder if a good approach
may be to mix graphite in silicone glue and lightly coat the surface
of the pad's underside. Anyone tried this or have a thought on it?
Others have used electrically conductive paint (e.g., that purchased
at auto supply stores to reconduct broken rear window defrost
circuits) but that would not seem to be as flexible as silicone glue
with conductive material mixed in it. I did read where someone mixed
finely shredded copper (from pipe) with thinly diluted white glue and
it worked well (but for how long?). It would seem that the latter
approach would be better if silicone glue was used, as it is more
flexible. What ye think?

**There are some proprietory kits available for remote control repairs. They
work. I've used them many times with great success. Use one. Alternatively,
but a new remote, or find a suitable programmable one.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

Trevor Wilson wrote:
Thomas Williams wrote:
For remote controls that have been properly cleaned out and still
don't work like new, I understand some conductive material needs to
be coated onto the circuit board contacts on the inside of the pad
buttons. Reviewing web discussions of this I wonder if a good
approach may be to mix graphite in silicone glue and lightly coat
the surface of the pad's underside. Anyone tried this or have a
thought on it? Others have used electrically conductive paint (e.g.,
that purchased at auto supply stores to reconduct broken rear window
defrost circuits) but that would not seem to be as flexible as
silicone glue with conductive material mixed in it. I did read where
someone mixed finely shredded copper (from pipe) with thinly diluted
white glue and it worked well (but for how long?). It would seem
that the latter approach would be better if silicone glue was used,
as it is more flexible. What ye think?

**There are some proprietory kits available for remote control
repairs. They work. I've used them many times with great success. Use
one. Alternatively, but a new remote, or find a suitable programmable
one.

Here is the link to a product specifically made for fixing conductive
keypads.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...K44-G-/200-315

It works... I've used it.
--
David
dgminala at mediacombb dot net

Here is the link to a product specifically made for fixing conductive
keypads.http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...-K-CK44-G-/200...

It works... I've used it.
--
David

I tried it ( Caikote 44 ). It worked fine for a couple weeks, then
several of the keys died. Disappointing.

On Sun, 6 Feb 2011 19:59:06 -0800 (PST), Thomas Williams
wrote:

Here is the link to a product specifically made for fixing conductive
keypads.http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...-K-CK44-G-/200...

It works... I've used it.
--
David

I tried it ( Caikote 44 ). It worked fine for a couple weeks, then
several of the keys died. Disappointing.

Try Neolube. http://www.micromark.com/NEOLUBE-2-FL-OZ,8383.html. I'm
most familiar with it for [redacted] the [redacted] in the [redacted]
but it also works well for regenerating those conductive pads in
remotes. Proper surface preparation is key, of course.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA