Should be simple 1/4 inch so. S/R bypass sw. fixing, but for removing the
main board.
I ended up graunching off the speaker cable clamp as it is inserted from the
inside , not the outside and simple mole-grip compression job to remove it.
(note to myself, next time confronted with this situation, try a small
driver between black plastic retaining tongue and the hole in the steel and
push inwards on plastic bulk, may work but not tried)
A plain grommet will be going back there as wires are loop-through anchored
plus solder to the pcb only 1.5 inches away anyway.
How on earth did someone assemble as no clearance space, you cannot even see
that area as surrounded by transformer and heatsink and casing. Just
referring to the heatsink, made me realise they probably assemble board
without LM3886T h/s and that goes in last. But then I would expect a couple
of holes in the rear of the casing to facilitate screwing on , would need
some sort of miniature flexible shaft or right-angle-drive screwdriver to
tighten
Maybe the mains transformer goes in last, but very short wiring loom to it
and still you cannot see the speaker thru-hole area and awkward bent finger
tip insertion.
Anyone else confronted with this conundrum ?

On Tue, 28 Dec 2010 12:46:00 +0000, N_Cook wrote:

Should be simple 1/4 inch so. S/R bypass sw. fixing, but for removing
the main board.
I ended up graunching off the speaker cable clamp as it is inserted from
the inside , not the outside and simple mole-grip compression job to
remove it. (note to myself, next time confronted with this situation,
try a small driver between black plastic retaining tongue and the hole
in the steel and push inwards on plastic bulk, may work but not tried) A
plain grommet will be going back there as wires are loop-through
anchored plus solder to the pcb only 1.5 inches away anyway. How on
earth did someone assemble as no clearance space, you cannot even see
that area as surrounded by transformer and heatsink and casing. Just
referring to the heatsink, made me realise they probably assemble board
without LM3886T h/s and that goes in last. But then I would expect a
couple of holes in the rear of the casing to facilitate screwing on ,
would need some sort of miniature flexible shaft or right-angle-drive
screwdriver to tighten
Maybe the mains transformer goes in last, but very short wiring loom to
it and still you cannot see the speaker thru-hole area and awkward bent
finger tip insertion.
Anyone else confronted with this conundrum ?

I replaced the troublesome 1/4 jack in a couple of those but don't
remember any conundrums.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

Meat Plow wrote in message
news
On Tue, 28 Dec 2010 12:46:00 +0000, N_Cook wrote:

Should be simple 1/4 inch so. S/R bypass sw. fixing, but for removing
the main board.
I ended up graunching off the speaker cable clamp as it is inserted from
the inside , not the outside and simple mole-grip compression job to
remove it. (note to myself, next time confronted with this situation,
try a small driver between black plastic retaining tongue and the hole
in the steel and push inwards on plastic bulk, may work but not tried) A
plain grommet will be going back there as wires are loop-through
anchored plus solder to the pcb only 1.5 inches away anyway. How on
earth did someone assemble as no clearance space, you cannot even see
that area as surrounded by transformer and heatsink and casing. Just
referring to the heatsink, made me realise they probably assemble board
without LM3886T h/s and that goes in last. But then I would expect a
couple of holes in the rear of the casing to facilitate screwing on ,
would need some sort of miniature flexible shaft or right-angle-drive
screwdriver to tighten
Maybe the mains transformer goes in last, but very short wiring loom to
it and still you cannot see the speaker thru-hole area and awkward bent
finger tip insertion.
Anyone else confronted with this conundrum ?

I replaced the troublesome 1/4 jack in a couple of those but don't
remember any conundrums.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse


Perhaps you have the knack of pushing inwards these coupled together black
2part cable grips and then replaced them from the outside. I don't remember
coming across a situation of having to push one inwards to release, rather
than compressing with mole-grips and pulling from the outside.

On Tue, 28 Dec 2010 15:13:09 +0000, N_Cook wrote:

Meat Plow wrote in message
news
On Tue, 28 Dec 2010 12:46:00 +0000, N_Cook wrote:

Should be simple 1/4 inch so. S/R bypass sw. fixing, but for removing
the main board.
I ended up graunching off the speaker cable clamp as it is inserted
from the inside , not the outside and simple mole-grip compression
job to remove it. (note to myself, next time confronted with this
situation, try a small driver between black plastic retaining tongue
and the hole in the steel and push inwards on plastic bulk, may work
but not tried) A plain grommet will be going back there as wires are
loop-through anchored plus solder to the pcb only 1.5 inches away
anyway. How on earth did someone assemble as no clearance space, you
cannot even see that area as surrounded by transformer and heatsink
and casing. Just referring to the heatsink, made me realise they
probably assemble board without LM3886T h/s and that goes in last.
But then I would expect a couple of holes in the rear of the casing
to facilitate screwing on , would need some sort of miniature
flexible shaft or right-angle-drive screwdriver to tighten
Maybe the mains transformer goes in last, but very short wiring loom
to it and still you cannot see the speaker thru-hole area and awkward
bent finger tip insertion.
Anyone else confronted with this conundrum ?

I replaced the troublesome 1/4 jack in a couple of those but don't
remember any conundrums.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse


Perhaps you have the knack of pushing inwards these coupled together
black 2part cable grips and then replaced them from the outside. I don't
remember coming across a situation of having to push one inwards to
release, rather than compressing with mole-grips and pulling from the
outside.

I wish it was a little clearer in memory but I don't recall anything of
notability besides the 1/4 jack was red on the end.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

N_Cook wrote:
Should be simple 1/4 inch so. S/R bypass sw. fixing, but for removing
the main board.
I ended up graunching off the speaker cable clamp as it is inserted
from the inside , not the outside and simple mole-grip compression
job to remove it. (note to myself, next time confronted with this
situation, try a small driver between black plastic retaining tongue
and the hole in the steel and push inwards on plastic bulk, may work
but not tried)
A plain grommet will be going back there as wires are loop-through
anchored plus solder to the pcb only 1.5 inches away anyway.
How on earth did someone assemble as no clearance space, you cannot
even see that area as surrounded by transformer and heatsink and
casing. Just referring to the heatsink, made me realise they probably
assemble board without LM3886T h/s and that goes in last. But then I
would expect a couple of holes in the rear of the casing to
facilitate screwing on , would need some sort of miniature flexible
shaft or right-angle-drive screwdriver to tighten
Maybe the mains transformer goes in last, but very short wiring loom
to it and still you cannot see the speaker thru-hole area and awkward
bent finger tip insertion.
Anyone else confronted with this conundrum ?

Please don't take this as a put-down or flame, because that's not my
intention. I respect your technical expertise and troubleshooting ability,
but when I read one of your posts, I have to read it several times before I
can figure out what you're talking about. Your sentences are poorly
constructed, and many times incomplete. It's a challenge for me to
understand the problem, what you're trying to accomplish. Maybe others here
in the group have the same problem and are reluctant to reply. There; now
that's out of my system.

I'm not familiar with the amp, and it's hard to visualize what you're
talking about, Are you having trouble removing and reinstalling a cable
strain relief, such as the ones shown on a Mouser catalog page
(http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/642/2395.pdf)? If so, there are
tools (pliers, actually, and shown on the same catalog page) that are
specially built for that task, and they work quite well, with no damage to
either the chassis, the cable or the strain relief. The tools are a bit
pricey, but they are worth the cost if they save you a few hours of labor
over such a simple job.
Don't know if any of the vendors in your area have these in stock, but
Mouser does ship overseas.

Cheers,
--
David
dgminala at mediacombb dot net

"Dave M"
N_Cook wrote:

Should be simple 1/4 inch so. S/R bypass sw. fixing, but for removing
the main board.

( snip rest of this incomprehensible drivel)


Please don't take this as a put-down or flame, because that's not my
intention. I respect your technical expertise and troubleshooting
ability, but when I read one of your posts, I have to read it several
times before I can figure out what you're talking about. Your sentences
are poorly constructed, and many times incomplete. It's a challenge for
me to understand the problem, what you're trying to accomplish. Maybe
others here in the group have the same problem and are reluctant to reply.


** Mr Nutcase Kook is incapable of writing clear English - or thinking it.

The first sentence of his post ( see above ) is a nice example of how not to
write.


..... Phil

Dave M wrote in message
news
N_Cook wrote:
Should be simple 1/4 inch so. S/R bypass sw. fixing, but for removing
the main board.
I ended up graunching off the speaker cable clamp as it is inserted
from the inside , not the outside and simple mole-grip compression
job to remove it. (note to myself, next time confronted with this
situation, try a small driver between black plastic retaining tongue
and the hole in the steel and push inwards on plastic bulk, may work
but not tried)
A plain grommet will be going back there as wires are loop-through
anchored plus solder to the pcb only 1.5 inches away anyway.
How on earth did someone assemble as no clearance space, you cannot
even see that area as surrounded by transformer and heatsink and
casing. Just referring to the heatsink, made me realise they probably
assemble board without LM3886T h/s and that goes in last. But then I
would expect a couple of holes in the rear of the casing to
facilitate screwing on , would need some sort of miniature flexible
shaft or right-angle-drive screwdriver to tighten
Maybe the mains transformer goes in last, but very short wiring loom
to it and still you cannot see the speaker thru-hole area and awkward
bent finger tip insertion.
Anyone else confronted with this conundrum ?

Please don't take this as a put-down or flame, because that's not my
intention. I respect your technical expertise and troubleshooting
ability,
but when I read one of your posts, I have to read it several times before
I
can figure out what you're talking about. Your sentences are poorly
constructed, and many times incomplete. It's a challenge for me to
understand the problem, what you're trying to accomplish. Maybe others
here
in the group have the same problem and are reluctant to reply. There; now
that's out of my system.

I'm not familiar with the amp, and it's hard to visualize what you're
talking about, Are you having trouble removing and reinstalling a cable
strain relief, such as the ones shown on a Mouser catalog page
(http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/642/2395.pdf)? If so, there are
tools (pliers, actually, and shown on the same catalog page) that are
specially built for that task, and they work quite well, with no damage to
either the chassis, the cable or the strain relief. The tools are a bit
pricey, but they are worth the cost if they save you a few hours of labor
over such a simple job.
Don't know if any of the vendors in your area have these in stock, but
Mouser does ship overseas.

Cheers,
--
David
dgminala at mediacombb dot net




Those are installation tools , maybe useable as extraction tools but
doubtfully for the "blind" side extraction. No way they could be used at
manufacture of these Marshalls even with absent heatsink and transformer
,without a serious bend in the shanks and probably longer shanks to clear
the case metalwork

Meat Plow wrote in message
news
On Tue, 28 Dec 2010 15:13:09 +0000, N_Cook wrote:

Meat Plow wrote in message
news
On Tue, 28 Dec 2010 12:46:00 +0000, N_Cook wrote:



I wish it was a little clearer in memory but I don't recall anything of
notability besides the 1/4 jack was red on the end.



--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse


No red-ended ones on this model

Someone has taken a pic
http://www.chambonino.com/routework/routewk12d.jpg
The speaker leads enter between number 2 and 3 white pillared W/W resistors,
calling number 1 at the foreground. The underside metalwork is 1/2 inch
below the pcb but somehow the strain relief clamp is inserted in that gap
surrounded by the h/s and Tx underside metal etc

N_Cook wrote in message
...
Someone has taken a pic
http://www.chambonino.com/routework/routewk12d.jpg
The speaker leads enter between number 2 and 3 white pillared W/W
resistors,
calling number 1 at the foreground. The underside metalwork is 1/2 inch
below the pcb but somehow the strain relief clamp is inserted in that gap
surrounded by the h/s and Tx underside metal etc



And just to clarify. Before you can remove the pcb you have to remove the
speaker wire clamp as the wire has no slack between clamp and pcb loop
anchor.
Another manufacturing possibility is that foreground end face of the casing
is not bent right-angled into shape until completing the speaker wiring, it
is not fixed/spot welded at the corners, then you could use a standard
insertion tool.

"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
Should be simple 1/4 inch so. S/R bypass sw. fixing, but for removing the
main board.
I ended up graunching off the speaker cable clamp as it is inserted from
the
inside , not the outside and simple mole-grip compression job to remove
it.
(note to myself, next time confronted with this situation, try a small
driver between black plastic retaining tongue and the hole in the steel
and
push inwards on plastic bulk, may work but not tried)
A plain grommet will be going back there as wires are loop-through
anchored
plus solder to the pcb only 1.5 inches away anyway.
How on earth did someone assemble as no clearance space, you cannot even
see
that area as surrounded by transformer and heatsink and casing. Just
referring to the heatsink, made me realise they probably assemble board
without LM3886T h/s and that goes in last. But then I would expect a
couple
of holes in the rear of the casing to facilitate screwing on , would need
some sort of miniature flexible shaft or right-angle-drive screwdriver to
tighten
Maybe the mains transformer goes in last, but very short wiring loom to it
and still you cannot see the speaker thru-hole area and awkward bent
finger
tip insertion.
Anyone else confronted with this conundrum ?




I've replaced the LM Power Amp IC on several of these. The cable clamp
grommets were on the right way round and no doubt fitted last, as thats the
only way they will go on.

Maybe the aliens did it. Or its some kind of Chinese assembly line joke.



Gareth.