Assuming I cannot get 1.5 inch long UNC 8/32 bolts in the UK, other than a
hundred or stupid min order quotes, any suggestions. ? I cannot return this
amp , despite repair, as it is unsafe. The 4 vertically mounted screws that
litterally hold the amp into the cab are stripped to next to useless. Not
captive nuts , nor spire nuts in the chassis part, sort of combination of
both.
Stamped something like
CIP-MUL 832
54 950 / 075
So either woodwork fitting battens along the sides to support amp should
what is left of the screwthreads fail, but amp would be loose then, but not
fall out as such. Or fit metric captive nuts into the chassis and replace
the screws with metric. Or any other work-around suggestions.
I'm not interested in purists opinions , decrying non-originality. The
owners mistreat the amp and can keep the originals along with the all too
tempting-to-turn rear voltage selector knob . Fine for USA but out and out
safety hazzard in the UK, especially the way this lot abuse their kit.
Removed and plated off over the spindle and knob fitted internally inside
the amp for any later purists. Not enough thread for a spindle lock.

"Nutcase _Kook"


Assuming I cannot get 1.5 inch long UNC 8/32 bolts in the UK, other than a
hundred or stupid min order quotes, any suggestions. ? I cannot return
this
amp , despite repair, as it is unsafe. The 4 vertically mounted screws
that
litterally hold the amp into the cab are stripped to next to useless. Not
captive nuts , nor spire nuts in the chassis part, sort of combination of
both.


** A 1979 Fender Twin Reverb is the 135 watt model - with ultra-linear
output stage.

The chassis looks like this:

http://www.tru-solutions.jp/Fender_T..._79_JBL_04.jpg

The black steel U-clips take the thread of the four top bolts - they will
also accept ordinary self tapping screws of the right size.

The three holes in the back edge take self tapping screws driven into the
top of the cabinet and will hold the chassis solidly in place *on their
own*.



The
owners mistreat the amp and can keep the originals along with the all too
tempting-to-turn rear voltage selector knob . Fine for USA but out and out
safety hazzard in the UK, especially the way this lot abuse their kit.
Removed and plated off over the spindle and knob fitted internally inside
the amp for any later purists.


** The red voltage selector knob merely has to be removed to eliminate the
hazard.



...... Phil

Meat Plow wrote in message
...
On Thu, 22 Apr 2010 17:24:57 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

Assuming I cannot get 1.5 inch long UNC 8/32 bolts in the UK, other than
a
hundred or stupid min order quotes, any suggestions. ? I cannot return
this
amp , despite repair, as it is unsafe. The 4 vertically mounted screws
that
litterally hold the amp into the cab are stripped to next to useless.
Not
captive nuts , nor spire nuts in the chassis part, sort of combination of
both.
Stamped something like
CIP-MUL 832
54 950 / 075
So either woodwork fitting battens along the sides to support amp should
what is left of the screwthreads fail, but amp would be loose then, but
not
fall out as such. Or fit metric captive nuts into the chassis and replace
the screws with metric. Or any other work-around suggestions.
I'm not interested in purists opinions , decrying non-originality. The
owners mistreat the amp and can keep the originals along with the all too
tempting-to-turn rear voltage selector knob . Fine for USA but out and
out
safety hazzard in the UK, especially the way this lot abuse their kit.
Removed and plated off over the spindle and knob fitted internally inside
the amp for any later purists. Not enough thread for a spindle lock.


Remove the captive nuts and replace with the correct length bolts with
counter-sunk heads and non-captive nuts with a flat washer against the
chassis and star washer on top. This has been done many times
especially when captive nuts are lost as they can pop out easily.

Are you a magician. ? The point of captive nuts is no spanner required to
turn the nut as there is no access plus easier manufacturing of the chassis.
I've found some 4mm captive/caged nuts, that with a bit of coaxing will go
into the existing holes in the chassis without enlarging. And 4mm stainless
steel bolts of the right length. The 3 screws at the rear are into cabinet
wood that may as well be made of paper as far as resisting the weight of 2
large transformers + + in a cantilever action.

BTW that decayed horse manure or goaty smell inside the amp . What is it
they add to winding wire insulation in the US that biologically breaks down
with UK damp air or whatever is the cause. No particularly unpleasant but
I'd rather the workshop smelled of bakelite or shellac say, rather than a
farmyard

"Nutcase Kook"

The 3 screws at the rear are into cabinet wood that may
as well be made of paper as far as resisting the weight
of 2 large transformers + + in a cantilever action.



** There is ZERO " cantilever action" involved - since the front of
the chassis is firmly trapped between the top and sides of the cabinet and
the speaker baffle.

Dickhead.



.... Phil

Meat Plow wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Apr 2010 08:40:38 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

Meat Plow wrote in message
...
On Thu, 22 Apr 2010 17:24:57 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

Assuming I cannot get 1.5 inch long UNC 8/32 bolts in the UK, other
than
a
hundred or stupid min order quotes, any suggestions. ? I cannot return
this
amp , despite repair, as it is unsafe. The 4 vertically mounted screws
that
litterally hold the amp into the cab are stripped to next to useless.
Not
captive nuts , nor spire nuts in the chassis part, sort of combination
of
both.
Stamped something like
CIP-MUL 832
54 950 / 075
So either woodwork fitting battens along the sides to support amp
should
what is left of the screwthreads fail, but amp would be loose then,
but
not
fall out as such. Or fit metric captive nuts into the chassis and
replace
the screws with metric. Or any other work-around suggestions.
I'm not interested in purists opinions , decrying non-originality. The
owners mistreat the amp and can keep the originals along with the all
too
tempting-to-turn rear voltage selector knob . Fine for USA but out and
out
safety hazzard in the UK, especially the way this lot abuse their kit.
Removed and plated off over the spindle and knob fitted internally
inside
the amp for any later purists. Not enough thread for a spindle lock.


Remove the captive nuts and replace with the correct length bolts with
counter-sunk heads and non-captive nuts with a flat washer against the
chassis and star washer on top. This has been done many times
especially when captive nuts are lost as they can pop out easily.

Are you a magician. ? The point of captive nuts is no spanner required to
turn the nut as there is no access plus easier manufacturing of the
chassis.
I've found some 4mm captive/caged nuts, that with a bit of coaxing will
go
into the existing holes in the chassis without enlarging. And 4mm
stainless
steel bolts of the right length. The 3 screws at the rear are into
cabinet
wood that may as well be made of paper as far as resisting the weight of
2
large transformers + + in a cantilever action.


I've held regular nuts in my fingertips while threading them onto
screws in Fender combos many, many times. It's not magic but requires
a degree of manual dexterity. Once the nut contacts the star washer it
can be released and the screw tightened from above. If there is enough
room to get your fingertips on the end of the screw there's enough
room to do it this way.

Either you have scissor-hands or these are not original screws. These nuts
are internal of the chassis, not on an external ledge. Overall length 37mm .
Width of cab and spreader plates 25mm , 2mm chassis thickness leaving you
with 37 minus 27 mm to get fingers in and long enough to reach the front
ones. 10mm or 3/8 inch

** A 1979 Fender Twin Reverb is the 135 watt model - with ultra-linear
output stage.

The chassis looks like this:

http://www.tru-solutions.jp/Fender_T..._79_JBL_04.jpg

The black steel U-clips take the thread of the four top bolts - they will
also accept ordinary self tapping screws of the right size.

The three holes in the back edge take self tapping screws driven into the
top of the cabinet and will hold the chassis solidly in place *on their
own*.

You lying ****wit.



.... Phil

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sat, 24 Apr 2010 00:38:49 +1000, "Phil Allison"
wrote:


** A 1979 Fender Twin Reverb is the 135 watt model - with ultra-linear
output stage.

The chassis looks like this:

http://www.tru-solutions.jp/Fender_T..._79_JBL_04.jpg

Well that is certainly different than the Fender chassis I'm referring
to where the bolts go through the chassis and out the bottom.

And those don't look like captive nuts they are clips with a hole in
the middle to hold on a metal screw and not a machine thread.


They are Tinnerman Nuts.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

"Meat Plow"
"Phil Allison"


** A 1979 Fender Twin Reverb is the 135 watt model - with ultra-linear
output stage.

The chassis looks like this:

http://www.tru-solutions.jp/Fender_T..._79_JBL_04.jpg

The black steel U-clips take the thread of the four top bolts - they
will
also accept ordinary self tapping screws of the right size.


Well that is certainly different than the Fender chassis I'm referring
to where the bolts go through the chassis and out the bottom.

And those don't look like captive nuts they are clips with a hole in
the middle to hold on a metal screw and not a machine thread.


** The OP stated his bolts were UNC 8-32, 1.5 inches long and there were no
captive nuts - that is exactly what Fender used for many models made in the
late 70s and early 80s.

Was a big improvement over the previous use of very long bolts that wound up
getting bent and were very hard to fit the nuts onto when used near the
power tranny.


..... Phil

Michael A. Terrell wrote in message
...

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sat, 24 Apr 2010 00:38:49 +1000, "Phil Allison"
wrote:


** A 1979 Fender Twin Reverb is the 135 watt model - with
ultra-linear
output stage.

The chassis looks like this:

http://www.tru-solutions.jp/Fender_T..._79_JBL_04.jpg

Well that is certainly different than the Fender chassis I'm referring
to where the bolts go through the chassis and out the bottom.

And those don't look like captive nuts they are clips with a hole in
the middle to hold on a metal screw and not a machine thread.


They are Tinnerman Nuts.


--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.


I will add to my
UK / USA Tool Terminology Translator file
http://www.divdev.fsnet.co.uk/tool_terms.htm



--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm

On 23/04/2010 19:40, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Meat Plow wrote:

On Sat, 24 Apr 2010 00:38:49 +1000, "Phil Allison"
wrote:


** A 1979 Fender Twin Reverb is the 135 watt model - with ultra-linear
output stage.

The chassis looks like this:

http://www.tru-solutions.jp/Fender_T..._79_JBL_04.jpg

Well that is certainly different than the Fender chassis I'm referring
to where the bolts go through the chassis and out the bottom.

And those don't look like captive nuts they are clips with a hole in
the middle to hold on a metal screw and not a machine thread.


They are Tinnerman Nuts.



Spire Clips in the UK

I'd have more confidence in those 3 wood screws at the rear of the chassis,
into the cab top, if they were longer and set at at opposing angles a la
floor-board nails, for maximum resistance to being pulled out


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm