Meat Plow wrote in message
...
On Thu, 22 Apr 2010 17:24:57 +0100, "N_Cook" wrote:

Assuming I cannot get 1.5 inch long UNC 8/32 bolts in the UK, other than
a
hundred or stupid min order quotes, any suggestions. ? I cannot return
this
amp , despite repair, as it is unsafe. The 4 vertically mounted screws
that
litterally hold the amp into the cab are stripped to next to useless.
Not
captive nuts , nor spire nuts in the chassis part, sort of combination of
both.
Stamped something like
CIP-MUL 832
54 950 / 075
So either woodwork fitting battens along the sides to support amp should
what is left of the screwthreads fail, but amp would be loose then, but
not
fall out as such. Or fit metric captive nuts into the chassis and replace
the screws with metric. Or any other work-around suggestions.
I'm not interested in purists opinions , decrying non-originality. The
owners mistreat the amp and can keep the originals along with the all too
tempting-to-turn rear voltage selector knob . Fine for USA but out and
out
safety hazzard in the UK, especially the way this lot abuse their kit.
Removed and plated off over the spindle and knob fitted internally inside
the amp for any later purists. Not enough thread for a spindle lock.


Remove the captive nuts and replace with the correct length bolts with
counter-sunk heads and non-captive nuts with a flat washer against the
chassis and star washer on top. This has been done many times
especially when captive nuts are lost as they can pop out easily.

Are you a magician. ? The point of captive nuts is no spanner required to
turn the nut as there is no access plus easier manufacturing of the chassis.
I've found some 4mm captive/caged nuts, that with a bit of coaxing will go
into the existing holes in the chassis without enlarging. And 4mm stainless
steel bolts of the right length. The 3 screws at the rear are into cabinet
wood that may as well be made of paper as far as resisting the weight of 2
large transformers + + in a cantilever action.