Bent away from the chassis, but not creased. These facia are relatively
thick and have quite a forceful set (springiness) in the bend. Other than
contact glue and clamping back is there a pre-treatment in the way of
annealing the metal or something to remove the set. ? Otherwise it is likely
strong enough to overcome the glue, as metal to metal.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

Meat Plow wrote:
On Sun, 12 Aug 2007 11:54:21 +0100, N Cook wrote:

Bent away from the chassis, but not creased. These facia are relatively
thick and have quite a forceful set (springiness) in the bend. Other than
contact glue and clamping back is there a pre-treatment in the way of
annealing the metal or something to remove the set. ? Otherwise it is likely
strong enough to overcome the glue, as metal to metal.

If you heat it it will discolor. Just glue it. I had the same thing happen
to an old Master Lead 50 that I used to own. Glued it and that was the end
of it.



On the older amps and the valve tops, the cabinet holds the fascia tight
against the chassis, on the newer stuff it doesn`t and the gold panel
can bend as you withdraw the chassis. I spose the correct way to do it
is the remove all the knobs etc, flatten the panel by rolling it the
'wrong way' then refit it. And be more careful removing the chassis next
time :^)

Ron(UK)

Ron(UK) wrote in message
...
Meat Plow wrote:
On Sun, 12 Aug 2007 11:54:21 +0100, N Cook wrote:

Bent away from the chassis, but not creased. These facia are relatively
thick and have quite a forceful set (springiness) in the bend. Other
than
contact glue and clamping back is there a pre-treatment in the way of
annealing the metal or something to remove the set. ? Otherwise it is
likely
strong enough to overcome the glue, as metal to metal.

If you heat it it will discolor. Just glue it. I had the same thing
happen
to an old Master Lead 50 that I used to own. Glued it and that was the
end
of it.



On the older amps and the valve tops, the cabinet holds the fascia tight
against the chassis, on the newer stuff it doesn`t and the gold panel
can bend as you withdraw the chassis. I spose the correct way to do it
is the remove all the knobs etc, flatten the panel by rolling it the
'wrong way' then refit it. And be more careful removing the chassis next
time :^)

Ron(UK)

This was pre-existing , I tend to use a couple of strips of celluloid at the
ends on replacing, when tight, to reduce problems of catching.
I am thinking of chamfering, edge relieving, the aluminium edges slightly
with all these sort of clad facia amps with an old carpenter's spoke-shave
or plane or even just the corners back an inch or so - any thoughts ?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

N Cook wrote:

I am thinking of chamfering, edge relieving, the aluminium edges slightly
with all these sort of clad facia amps with an old carpenter's spoke-shave
or plane or even just the corners back an inch or so - any thoughts ?

Yes, I'm thinking you shouldn't be altering/modifying anyones possibly
precious (to them) gear, without asking them first.


Ron(UK)