Remote just died one day, didn't drop it or any physical damage. Tried
new batteries, I have voltage throughout the circuit board all the way
up to the infrared LED. The backlight LEDs and the DBS LED flash
shortly once while I connect B+. Most of the Test Points indicate
switch activity, but no switch indication returned to the LED under
the switch button Eg: TV, VCR... The crystal looks like it is working
just fine. The infrared LED checks OK. I have inspected with a
microscope as best as I can for a cracked run, but the switch side is
covered by a white coating making it impossible for visual inspection.
A replacement remote is right at $50, and I'm not sure if a universal
will have all the options. They went to the trouble of putting Test
Points on the board, so I figured there may be some info/schematics
floating around somewhere.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Bill

wrote:
Remote just died one day, didn't drop it or any physical damage. Tried
new batteries, I have voltage throughout the circuit board all the way
up to the infrared LED. The backlight LEDs and the DBS LED flash
shortly once while I connect B+. Most of the Test Points indicate
switch activity, but no switch indication returned to the LED under
the switch button Eg: TV, VCR... The crystal looks like it is working
just fine. The infrared LED checks OK. I have inspected with a
microscope as best as I can for a cracked run, but the switch side is
covered by a white coating making it impossible for visual inspection.
A replacement remote is right at $50, and I'm not sure if a universal
will have all the options. They went to the trouble of putting Test
Points on the board, so I figured there may be some info/schematics
floating around somewhere.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Bill

How did you check the infrared led? I have found the even tho the
infrared LED can check ok with a voltmeter test, it still may be bad.
I always check my remotes with a little card available Radio Shack. If
the remote is transmitting the little square on the card will light up.
A dim room is better for checking as the card doesnt light up all that
brightly.

JIm

On Apr 28, 3:34 pm, Jim Poore wrote:
wrote:
Remote just died one day, didn't drop it or any physical damage. Tried
new batteries, I have voltage throughout the circuit board all the way
up to the infrared LED. The backlight LEDs and the DBS LED flash
shortly once while I connect B+. Most of the Test Points indicate
switch activity, but no switch indication returned to the LED under
the switch button Eg: TV, VCR... The crystal looks like it is working
just fine. The infrared LED checks OK. I have inspected with a
microscope as best as I can for a cracked run, but the switch side is
covered by a white coating making it impossible for visual inspection.
A replacement remote is right at $50, and I'm not sure if a universal
will have all the options. They went to the trouble of putting Test
Points on the board, so I figured there may be some info/schematics
floating around somewhere.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Bill

How did you check the infrared led? I have found the even tho the
infrared LED can check ok with a voltmeter test, it still may be bad.
I always check my remotes with a little card available Radio Shack. If
the remote is transmitting the little square on the card will light up.
A dim room is better for checking as the card doesnt light up all that
brightly.

JIm- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Jim,
While checking the LED with the diode test setting on my multimeter
(to supply power), I viewed the light from the LED through my camera
on my cell phone.

thanks,

Bill

wrote:
On Apr 28, 3:34 pm, Jim Poore wrote:

wrote:

Remote just died one day, didn't drop it or any physical damage. Tried
new batteries, I have voltage throughout the circuit board all the way
up to the infrared LED. The backlight LEDs and the DBS LED flash
shortly once while I connect B+. Most of the Test Points indicate
switch activity, but no switch indication returned to the LED under
the switch button Eg: TV, VCR... The crystal looks like it is working
just fine. The infrared LED checks OK. I have inspected with a
microscope as best as I can for a cracked run, but the switch side is
covered by a white coating making it impossible for visual inspection.
A replacement remote is right at $50, and I'm not sure if a universal
will have all the options. They went to the trouble of putting Test
Points on the board, so I figured there may be some info/schematics
floating around somewhere.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Bill

How did you check the infrared led? I have found the even tho the
infrared LED can check ok with a voltmeter test, it still may be bad.
I always check my remotes with a little card available Radio Shack. If
the remote is transmitting the little square on the card will light up.
A dim room is better for checking as the card doesnt light up all that
brightly.

JIm- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Jim,
While checking the LED with the diode test setting on my multimeter
(to supply power), I viewed the light from the LED through my camera
on my cell phone.

thanks,

Bill

Lol....I learn something new every day...I would have never thought to
use a camera to view infrared activity. My hats off to you for your
ingenuity.

Jim

Lol....I learn something new every day...I would have never thought to
use a camera to view infrared activity. My hats off to you for your
ingenuity.

Not new. Common practice.
--
Al, the usual