I started having trouble with my TV after it was moved in a U-Haul from
San Francisco to Seattle. I managed to locate a faulty solder joint on
the board. Applying pressure to the joint with a strip of wood fixes
the problem.

My problem is this: I am very experienced with electronics and
soldering, but I have little experience when it comes to high voltage.
I need to fix the solder joint but I have no hardware to properly
discharge any high voltage capacitors in the TV. I don't think this is
a problem as the faulty solder joint is attached to what appears to be
a FET. However, it could also be a triac, which could mean that it's
attached to a HV part of the circuit. I don't want to stick my head in
there to find out exactly what it is. Would you advise fixing the
solder joint without first discharging the TV?

Thanks in advance!

) writes:
I started having trouble with my TV after it was moved in a U-Haul from
San Francisco to Seattle. I managed to locate a faulty solder joint on
the board. Applying pressure to the joint with a strip of wood fixes
the problem.

My problem is this: I am very experienced with electronics and
soldering, but I have little experience when it comes to high voltage.
I need to fix the solder joint but I have no hardware to properly
discharge any high voltage capacitors in the TV. I don't think this is
a problem as the faulty solder joint is attached to what appears to be
a FET. However, it could also be a triac, which could mean that it's
attached to a HV part of the circuit. I don't want to stick my head in
there to find out exactly what it is. Would you advise fixing the
solder joint without first discharging the TV?

Thanks in advance!

Huh?

You're "very experienced in electronics and soldering" yet you don't
know whether something is an FET or a triac?

Michael

wrote in message
oups.com...

I started having trouble with my TV after it was moved in a U-Haul from
San Francisco to Seattle. I managed to locate a faulty solder joint on
the board. Applying pressure to the joint with a strip of wood fixes
the problem.

Fix it that way. You don't have the skill set to do more.

wrote:
I started having trouble with my TV after it was moved in a U-Haul from
San Francisco to Seattle. I managed to locate a faulty solder joint on
the board. Applying pressure to the joint with a strip of wood fixes
the problem.

My problem is this: I am very experienced with electronics and
soldering, but I have little experience when it comes to high voltage.
I need to fix the solder joint but I have no hardware to properly
discharge any high voltage capacitors in the TV. I don't think this is
a problem as the faulty solder joint is attached to what appears to be
a FET. However, it could also be a triac, which could mean that it's
attached to a HV part of the circuit. I don't want to stick my head in
there to find out exactly what it is. Would you advise fixing the
solder joint without first discharging the TV?

Thanks in advance!

Just lay some steel wool or tinsel around where you will be working and
it will short out any voltage.

--

You are living somebody else's dream. The whole world, laws
and way of life; not your dream.


Clyde Crashcup

Michael Black wrote:
) writes:
I started having trouble with my TV after it was moved in a U-Haul from
San Francisco to Seattle. I managed to locate a faulty solder joint on
the board. Applying pressure to the joint with a strip of wood fixes
the problem.

My problem is this: I am very experienced with electronics and
soldering, but I have little experience when it comes to high voltage.
I need to fix the solder joint but I have no hardware to properly
discharge any high voltage capacitors in the TV. I don't think this is
a problem as the faulty solder joint is attached to what appears to be
a FET. However, it could also be a triac, which could mean that it's
attached to a HV part of the circuit. I don't want to stick my head in
there to find out exactly what it is. Would you advise fixing the
solder joint without first discharging the TV?

Thanks in advance!

Huh?

You're "very experienced in electronics and soldering" yet you don't
know whether something is an FET or a triac?

Michael

I don't want to stick my head in between the high-voltage electronics
and the CRT to see it more closely.

You dont need to discharge anything to do some soldering . The charge is
held up under that big suction cup on the picture tube . Simply turn the
set off and wait a few minutes for the filter capacitors to discharge by
themselves , turn the board over then solder .
In some cases when you walk up to a tv and touch metal parts you may get
a static zap just like you do from the car door or door knob in your
house .

Ken G. wrote:

You dont need to discharge anything to do some soldering . The charge is
held up under that big suction cup on the picture tube . Simply turn the
set off and wait a few minutes for the filter capacitors to discharge by
themselves , turn the board over then solder .
In some cases when you walk up to a tv and touch metal parts you may get
a static zap just like you do from the car door or door knob in your
house .

That "big suction cup" has a wire extending from it to the HV section.
Touching any bare section of that wire (although there shouldn't be
any), or of the parts in the HV section to which it's attached, can
give you a big surprise.

The picture tube itself holds the charge.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

Clyde Crashcup .......................... wrote:

wrote:

I started having trouble with my TV after it was moved in a U-Haul from
San Francisco to Seattle. I managed to locate a faulty solder joint on
the board. Applying pressure to the joint with a strip of wood fixes
the problem.

My problem is this: I am very experienced with electronics and
soldering, but I have little experience when it comes to high voltage.
I need to fix the solder joint but I have no hardware to properly
discharge any high voltage capacitors in the TV. I don't think this is
a problem as the faulty solder joint is attached to what appears to be
a FET. However, it could also be a triac, which could mean that it's
attached to a HV part of the circuit. I don't want to stick my head in
there to find out exactly what it is. Would you advise fixing the
solder joint without first discharging the TV?

Thanks in advance!


Just lay some steel wool or tinsel around where you will be working and
it will short out any voltage.

That sounds like a recipe for problems later, when bits of steel wool
left behind cause further shorts. Besides, putting steel wool on a
board containing capacitors that aren't fully discharged already can
discharge them through inappropriate paths.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

"Clyde Crashcup .........................." writes:

wrote:
I started having trouble with my TV after it was moved in a U-Haul from
San Francisco to Seattle. I managed to locate a faulty solder joint on
the board. Applying pressure to the joint with a strip of wood fixes
the problem.

My problem is this: I am very experienced with electronics and
soldering, but I have little experience when it comes to high voltage.
I need to fix the solder joint but I have no hardware to properly
discharge any high voltage capacitors in the TV. I don't think this is
a problem as the faulty solder joint is attached to what appears to be
a FET. However, it could also be a triac, which could mean that it's
attached to a HV part of the circuit. I don't want to stick my head in
there to find out exactly what it is. Would you advise fixing the
solder joint without first discharging the TV?

Thanks in advance!

Just lay some steel wool or tinsel around where you will be working and
it will short out any voltage.

Responses like this are not constructive and downright dangerous.

Simply leave the TV off overnight. That should discharge any capacitors
that would affect soldering on the mainboard. The only possible remaining
charge may be on the CRT anode but that only goes to the flyback and you
should not need to disconnect it. And, that will almost certainly be
discharged by then in any case.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

CJT writes:

Ken G. wrote:

You dont need to discharge anything to do some soldering . The charge is
held up under that big suction cup on the picture tube . Simply turn the
set off and wait a few minutes for the filter capacitors to discharge by
themselves , turn the board over then solder .
In some cases when you walk up to a tv and touch metal parts you may get
a static zap just like you do from the car door or door knob in your
house .

That "big suction cup" has a wire extending from it to the HV section.
Touching any bare section of that wire (although there shouldn't be
any), or of the parts in the HV section to which it's attached, can
give you a big surprise.

The picture tube itself holds the charge.

In nearly all CRT TVs and monitors less tha 30 years old, it goes directly
into the flyback and bare sections would be extermely unlikely.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

"Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message
...

In nearly all CRT TVs and monitors less tha 30 years old, it goes directly
into the flyback and bare sections would be extermely unlikely.

Unless the ground to the outside of the kine is disconnected. Not a good
thing to touch if you are standing on the ledge of a second floor window.

wrote:
I started having trouble with my TV after it was moved in a U-Haul from
San Francisco to Seattle. I managed to locate a faulty solder joint on
the board. Applying pressure to the joint with a strip of wood fixes
the problem.

My problem is this: I am very experienced with electronics and
soldering, but I have little experience when it comes to high voltage.
I need to fix the solder joint but I have no hardware to properly
discharge any high voltage capacitors in the TV. I don't think this is
a problem as the faulty solder joint is attached to what appears to be
a FET. However, it could also be a triac, which could mean that it's
attached to a HV part of the circuit. I don't want to stick my head in
there to find out exactly what it is. Would you advise fixing the
solder joint without first discharging the TV?

Thanks in advance!



Just get in there and solder it, if the set has been unplugged for a few
days there's no risk.

"Homer J Simpson" writes:

"Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message
...

In nearly all CRT TVs and monitors less tha 30 years old, it goes directly
into the flyback and bare sections would be extermely unlikely.

Unless the ground to the outside of the kine is disconnected. Not a good
thing to touch if you are standing on the ledge of a second floor window.

I'm not sure I'd want to test it out this way, but in principle, if the
ground only were disconnected after the set was turned off, there would
be no voltage between it and ground.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

"Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message
...

Unless the ground to the outside of the kine is disconnected. Not a good
thing to touch if you are standing on the ledge of a second floor window.

I'm not sure I'd want to test it out this way, but in principle, if the
ground only were disconnected after the set was turned off, there would
be no voltage between it and ground.

True, but when it is run that way and you just turned it off to twist the
yoke . . . . .

Sam Goldwasser wrote:
"Clyde Crashcup .........................." writes:
wrote:

I started having trouble with my TV after it was moved in a U-Haul from
San Francisco to Seattle. I managed to locate a faulty solder joint on
the board. Applying pressure to the joint with a strip of wood fixes
the problem.

My problem is this: I am very experienced with electronics and
soldering, but I have little experience when it comes to high voltage.
I need to fix the solder joint but I have no hardware to properly
discharge any high voltage capacitors in the TV.

I think a lot of the reponses so far have been attempts at humour.
Possibly because you say youre very experienced yet dont know how to
discharge a psu cap or the tube eht. No, you cant rely on them to self
discharge over a day or so. Since youre experienced, figure it out.


NT

wrote in message
ups.com...

I think a lot of the reponses so far have been attempts at humour.
Possibly because you say youre very experienced yet dont know how to
discharge a psu cap or the tube eht. No, you cant rely on them to self
discharge over a day or so. Since youre experienced, figure it out.

He made his skill level clear and the best advice for him is to not try.

Applying pressure to the joint with a strip of wood fixes
the problem.

Fix it that way. You don't have the skill set to do more.

"Homer J Simpson" writes:

"Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message
...

Unless the ground to the outside of the kine is disconnected. Not a good
thing to touch if you are standing on the ledge of a second floor window.

I'm not sure I'd want to test it out this way, but in principle, if the
ground only were disconnected after the set was turned off, there would
be no voltage between it and ground.

True, but when it is run that way and you just turned it off to twist the
yoke . . . . .

HeHeHe... If it's run with the CRT ground disconnected, that's a different
story.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

wrote in
ups.com:

Sam Goldwasser wrote:
"Clyde Crashcup .........................."
writes:
wrote:

I started having trouble with my TV after it was moved in a U-Haul
from San Francisco to Seattle. I managed to locate a faulty solder
joint on the board. Applying pressure to the joint with a strip of
wood fixes the problem.

My problem is this: I am very experienced with electronics and
soldering, but I have little experience when it comes to high
voltage. I need to fix the solder joint but I have no hardware to
properly discharge any high voltage capacitors in the TV.

I think a lot of the reponses so far have been attempts at humour.
Possibly because you say youre very experienced yet dont know how to
discharge a psu cap or the tube eht. No, you cant rely on them to self
discharge over a day or so. Since youre experienced, figure it out.

Go to the library. Get an older copy of the Radio Amateur's Handbook. It
should show you how to make a tool consisting of a wire, a wooden dowel, and
a resistor, that can be used to safely discharge high voltage capacitors.

These devices were called 'crowbars' because that is what they essentially
were, a crowbar with a heavy wire that connected it to ground.

The operator would turn off the power, hang the crowbar on the high voltage
line, grounding it, and work on the equipment, secure and safe. IF someone
accidently turned on the power without removing the crowbar, it would blow
fuses.

Nowdays, a circuit that shorts the output of a power supply to ground in case
of overvoltage output of the supply is called a 'crowbar' circuit, for
reasons that should now be clear.





--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

remove ch100-5 to avoid spam trap

bz wrote:


Go to the library. Get an older copy of the Radio Amateur's Handbook. It
should show you how to make a tool consisting of a wire, a wooden dowel, and
a resistor, that can be used to safely discharge high voltage capacitors.

These devices were called 'crowbars' because that is what they essentially
were, a crowbar with a heavy wire that connected it to ground.


You are describing a "Shorting Stick" which is a safe way to discharge
a HV power supply to service the equipment. It was also used in
broadcast transmitters, in case the safety interlocks failed. A crowbar
is not current limited, it is a fail safe shutdown circuit, and you can
expect damage if it is triggered.


The operator would turn off the power, hang the crowbar on the high voltage
line, grounding it, and work on the equipment, secure and safe. IF someone
accidently turned on the power without removing the crowbar, it would blow
fuses.

Nowdays, a circuit that shorts the output of a power supply to ground in case
of overvoltage output of the supply is called a 'crowbar' circuit, for
reasons that should now be clear.



--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

Homer J Simpson wrote:
wrote in message
ups.com...

Applying pressure to the joint with a strip of wood fixes
the problem.

Fix it that way. You don't have the skill set to do more.

discharging CRT skill easily learnt

NT

Thanks to those of you that actually had helpful things to say.

I let the TV sit for 48 hours, cracked it open, and went in with the
soldering iron. Now all is well.

Responses like "Don't even try, you suck, you don't have the skills."
aren't helpful in teaching others new things. People aren't born with
these skills and neither were you. Offer some constructive advice to
help people to learn rather than put them down.

Good for you. Congratulations on the repair.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks to those of you that actually had helpful things to say.

I let the TV sit for 48 hours, cracked it open, and went in with the
soldering iron. Now all is well.

Responses like "Don't even try, you suck, you don't have the skills."
aren't helpful in teaching others new things. People aren't born with
these skills and neither were you. Offer some constructive advice to
help people to learn rather than put them down.

On Oct 28, 5:21 pm, wrote:
I started having trouble with my TV after it was moved in a U-Haul from
San Francisco to Seattle. I managed to locate a faulty solder joint on
the board. Applying pressure to the joint with a strip of wood fixes
the problem.

My problem is this: I am very experienced with electronics and
soldering, but I have little experience when it comes to high voltage.
I need to fix the solder joint but I have no hardware to properly
discharge any high voltage capacitors in the TV. I don't think this is
a problem as the faulty solder joint is attached to what appears to be
a FET. However, it could also be a triac, which could mean that it's
attached to a HV part of the circuit. I don't want to stick my head in
there to find out exactly what it is. Would you advise fixing the
solder joint without first discharging the TV?

Thanks in advance!


Always best to discharge! you can use a simple flathead screwdriver
with an alligator clip. Clip it to the screwdriver and clip it to DAG
Ground... it will be a braid of wire attached to the CRT tube slide
flathead screw driver in under the anode cap that runs to the flyback
transformer. It will look like a large suction cup attached to the
picture tube.. You will hear a 'pop' as the HV discharges. Then it will
be ready to pull that board. I would still be leary of the filter caps
though!

wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks to those of you that actually had helpful things to say.

I let the TV sit for 48 hours, cracked it open, and went in with the
soldering iron. Now all is well.

Responses like "Don't even try, you suck, you don't have the skills."
aren't helpful in teaching others new things. People aren't born with
these skills and neither were you. Offer some constructive advice to
help people to learn rather than put them down.

OK. Here is constructive advice. Learn the way I did - take a 5 year
apprenticeship and pass the required exams to become qualified.

wrote:

Thanks to those of you that actually had helpful things to say.

I let the TV sit for 48 hours, cracked it open, and went in with the
soldering iron. Now all is well.

Responses like "Don't even try, you suck, you don't have the skills."
aren't helpful in teaching others new things. People aren't born with
these skills and neither were you. Offer some constructive advice to
help people to learn rather than put them down.

Some offered advice intended to avoid risk of death or injury to
yourself. Maybe it wasnt put the best way. Some of us have learnt the
painful way. Some are lucky to be alive today. Some have learnt the
hard way, and they cant give you the benefit of their experience any
more.

Sitting it for 2 days does not ensure discharge and does not mke it
safe to work on, I've drawn nice energetic sparks off a tv after a
week. Dischargng is easy to do.


NT

"Homer J Simpson" writes:

wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks to those of you that actually had helpful things to say.

I let the TV sit for 48 hours, cracked it open, and went in with the
soldering iron. Now all is well.

Responses like "Don't even try, you suck, you don't have the skills."
aren't helpful in teaching others new things. People aren't born with
these skills and neither were you. Offer some constructive advice to
help people to learn rather than put them down.

OK. Here is constructive advice. Learn the way I did - take a 5 year
apprenticeship and pass the required exams to become qualified.

Sorry, that's not constructive advice in this context.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

Glad you got it fixed .. see that was easy .

The people who did not give a decent answer do not know the answer so
now they learn too .

"Sam Goldwasser" wrote in message
...

OK. Here is constructive advice. Learn the way I did - take a 5 year
apprenticeship and pass the required exams to become qualified.

Sorry, that's not constructive advice in this context.

Sure it was. Some people are capable. Some are not. I've spent too much time
cleaning up after those who are not. One lucky break doesn't change my
views.

Ken G. ) writes:
Glad you got it fixed .. see that was easy .

The people who did not give a decent answer do not know the answer so
now they learn too .


These little homilies don't do a thing.

The poster declared that he knew about electronics and soldering,
yet he neither knew how to discharge the CRT, or had the means of
looking it up.

That does not indicate someone who is well versed in electronics.

Now the interesting thing is that if he'd not put in that bit,
he might not have gotten the answers he did. Boastfulness often
doesn't result in help, it certainly doesn't result in sympathy.

And ultimately the boast didn't do a thing, because whether or
not he did know anything, he didn't know the bit he did need to know
(by his own acknowledgement, after all, he was asking how to discharge
the CRT). He couldn't have done any worse by not putting that bit
in.

All of this is reinforced when he comes back and thanks the people
he helped, and denounces those who didn't. That's part of the process.

It's not as if this hasn't happened before, by many other posters.

Michael

Homer J Simpson wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...

Thanks to those of you that actually had helpful things to say.

I let the TV sit for 48 hours, cracked it open, and went in with the
soldering iron. Now all is well.

Responses like "Don't even try, you suck, you don't have the skills."
aren't helpful in teaching others new things. People aren't born with
these skills and neither were you. Offer some constructive advice to
help people to learn rather than put them down.


OK. Here is constructive advice. Learn the way I did - take a 5 year
apprenticeship and pass the required exams to become qualified.





Or just jump in and start working on things like I did, with the
internet, who needs to waste 5 years taking a course?

wrote:

Always best to discharge! you can use a simple flathead screwdriver
with an alligator clip. Clip it to the screwdriver and clip it to DAG
Ground... it will be a braid of wire attached to the CRT tube slide
flathead screw driver in under the anode cap that runs to the flyback
transformer. It will look like a large suction cup attached to the
picture tube.. You will hear a 'pop' as the HV discharges. Then it will
be ready to pull that board. I would still be leary of the filter caps
though!

This is not safe.

1. Alligator clips come off very readily, and screwdrivers dont
insulate to 25kV. There is also the q of what the clip is touching
after its come off, it may be your metal trouser fly.
2. The OP may think you mean the braid that connects to the tube base
pcb, and aquadag braid to chassis is prone to coming disocnnected in
some set designs, so again this may fail at times.
3. Finally a single zap does not discharge the CRT, it typically takes
3 goes.
4. And lastly, reservoir caps must be discharged too. They are a good
deal more dangerous than CRT EHT, which is usualy not fatal and is more
or less insulated. Reservoirs OTOH are kill capable, and conductive
paths route their energy to who knows where on the board. And typically
a repair will involve handling the main board - often with both hands,
which is where the danger comes in. A cap full of 330v across the 2
hands is not something to volunteer for.

Maybe the OP should read up on Darwin Awards.


NT

wrote:
wrote:


Always best to discharge! you can use a simple flathead screwdriver
with an alligator clip. Clip it to the screwdriver and clip it to DAG
Ground... it will be a braid of wire attached to the CRT tube slide
flathead screw driver in under the anode cap that runs to the flyback
transformer. It will look like a large suction cup attached to the
picture tube.. You will hear a 'pop' as the HV discharges. Then it will
be ready to pull that board. I would still be leary of the filter caps
though!


This is not safe.

1. Alligator clips come off very readily, and screwdrivers dont
insulate to 25kV. There is also the q of what the clip is touching
after its come off, it may be your metal trouser fly.
2. The OP may think you mean the braid that connects to the tube base
pcb, and aquadag braid to chassis is prone to coming disocnnected in
some set designs, so again this may fail at times.
3. Finally a single zap does not discharge the CRT, it typically takes
3 goes.
4. And lastly, reservoir caps must be discharged too. They are a good
deal more dangerous than CRT EHT, which is usualy not fatal and is more
or less insulated. Reservoirs OTOH are kill capable, and conductive
paths route their energy to who knows where on the board. And typically
a repair will involve handling the main board - often with both hands,
which is where the danger comes in. A cap full of 330v across the 2
hands is not something to volunteer for.

Maybe the OP should read up on Darwin Awards.


NT



It may not be "safe" but I've been doing it that way for 15 years and
never had a problem with it. Screwdriver with a wire wrapped around it
connected to the dag strap. Most of the other caps discharge themselves
but I stick a screwdriver across the big ones just to make sure.

"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:VZ72h.4077$B44.2323@trndny07...

OK. Here is constructive advice. Learn the way I did - take a 5 year
apprenticeship and pass the required exams to become qualified.

Or just jump in and start working on things like I did, with the internet,
who needs to waste 5 years taking a course?

What waste? I put myself through college working at my trades - no student
loans needed.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++
+ Required crap appended to avoid restrictions imposed by brain +
+ damaged idiots.
+
+ Server Response: '441 Posting Failed (Rejected by POST filter)', +
+ Port: 119, Secure(SSL): No, Server Error: 441,
+
+ Error Number: 0x800CCCA9
+
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++

wrote in message
oups.com...

This is not safe.


Maybe the OP should read up on Darwin Awards.

The very old TV sets had nasty AC powered EHT systems that could kill. The
only way the flyback can kill is if you are holding a gun in your mouth with
one hand while you play with the TV with the other.


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+ Required crap appended to avoid restrictions imposed by brain +
+ damaged idiots.
+
+ Server Response: '441 Posting Failed (Rejected by POST filter)', +
+ Port: 119, Secure(SSL): No, Server Error: 441,
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+ Error Number: 0x800CCCA9
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Homer J Simpson wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...

This is not safe.

Maybe the OP should read up on Darwin Awards.

The very old TV sets had nasty AC powered EHT systems that could kill.

1930s, yes. What are the odds of the OP's set being that old though?
The era of mirror-top sets and red EHT current limiting bulbs.


The
only way the flyback can kill is if you are holding a gun in your mouth with
one hand while you play with the TV with the other.

or the shock resulted in breaking the tube. Or in a recoiling hand
coming into contact with a charged reservoir cap. Or a live chassis on
an older set. Or the person had a weak heart and didnt know it. Etc.
Theres no point being silly about these things when it takes 30 seconds
to discharge EHT.


NT

wrote in message
ups.com...

or the shock resulted in breaking the tube. Or in a recoiling hand
coming into contact with a charged reservoir cap. Or a live chassis on
an older set. Or the person had a weak heart and didnt know it. Etc.
Theres no point being silly about these things when it takes 30 seconds
to discharge EHT.

Indubitably, but a TV doesn't scare me a tiny bit in comparison with a
microwave -- or an 11 kV street line.


--
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++
+ Required crap appended to avoid restrictions imposed by brain +
+ damaged idiots.
+
+ Server Response: '441 Posting Failed (Rejected by POST filter)', +
+ Port: 119, Secure(SSL): No, Server Error: 441,
+
+ Error Number: 0x800CCCA9
+
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++