[I've cross posted this to what seemed to be the most appropriate places;
no flames please]


I have a 4-year old Kenmore 65-pint dehumidifer which sits in a basement
room containing electronics, etc. and I keep the relative humidity below
50%. It has functioned well until I turned it on for this summer season
(in the winter, hot air from the furnace keeps the room dry as a bone).
Nothing has changed in the room, or the basement, which would affect the
ease with which humidity could leak back into the room.

I keep a digital thermometer/hygrometer in the room (double-checked for
accuracy with another unit elsewhere in the house). The problem seems to
be the (digital) humidistat (which has a range of 40 - 60%) which now
seems to be about 10 - 15% too high. As a result, even with the dehumidifer
set at 40%, the steady-state humidity in the room barely goes below 50%.

I checked the warranty and it only applies to the sealed components
(condenser, compressor, etc) so I opened the unit and found no evidence of a
humidistat adjustment or trimmer. The humidity sensor is mounted on the
inner frame of the unit, within the stream of air flow between back to
front, next to the sides of the coils. When it has stopped running at an
ambient humidity of 50% (even though set to 40%) it restarts again when I
blow moist air from my mouth at the sensor.

It looks to be sourced from LG, and browsing in stores I see newer units
which allow set points down to 30% relative humidity, as well as low
temperature operation. I'm toying with the idea of simply replacing the
unit, but wonder if it's worth the expense of having a non-warranty
failure repaired - or the hassle of ordering a replacement sensor and
trying it myself.

Any thoughts?

In article , (Mike S.) wrote:


[I've cross posted this to what seemed to be the most appropriate places;
no flames please]


I have a 4-year old Kenmore 65-pint dehumidifer which sits in a basement
room containing electronics, etc. and I keep the relative humidity below
50%. It has functioned well until I turned it on for this summer season
(in the winter, hot air from the furnace keeps the room dry as a bone).
Nothing has changed in the room, or the basement, which would affect the
ease with which humidity could leak back into the room.

I keep a digital thermometer/hygrometer in the room (double-checked for
accuracy with another unit elsewhere in the house). The problem seems to
be the (digital) humidistat (which has a range of 40 - 60%) which now
seems to be about 10 - 15% too high. As a result, even with the dehumidifer
set at 40%, the steady-state humidity in the room barely goes below 50%.

I checked the warranty and it only applies to the sealed components
(condenser, compressor, etc) so I opened the unit and found no evidence of a
humidistat adjustment or trimmer. The humidity sensor is mounted on the
inner frame of the unit, within the stream of air flow between back to
front, next to the sides of the coils. When it has stopped running at an
ambient humidity of 50% (even though set to 40%) it restarts again when I
blow moist air from my mouth at the sensor.

It looks to be sourced from LG, and browsing in stores I see newer units
which allow set points down to 30% relative humidity, as well as low
temperature operation. I'm toying with the idea of simply replacing the
unit, but wonder if it's worth the expense of having a non-warranty
failure repaired - or the hassle of ordering a replacement sensor and
trying it myself.

Any thoughts

My first thought is to rewire the unit with a remote humidstat.
The control really does not work all that well mounted
internally. Its kind of like a feedback system, since water
collected in the unit, evaporates and affects the internal
humidstat. I don't know whats more cost effective
as far a solutions. Try replacing the sensor???

greg

In article ,
GregS wrote:
In article , (Mike S.) wrote:


[I've cross posted this to what seemed to be the most appropriate places;
no flames please]


I have a 4-year old Kenmore 65-pint dehumidifer which sits in a basement
room containing electronics, etc. and I keep the relative humidity below
50%. It has functioned well until I turned it on for this summer season
(in the winter, hot air from the furnace keeps the room dry as a bone).
Nothing has changed in the room, or the basement, which would affect the
ease with which humidity could leak back into the room.

I keep a digital thermometer/hygrometer in the room (double-checked for
accuracy with another unit elsewhere in the house). The problem seems to
be the (digital) humidistat (which has a range of 40 - 60%) which now
seems to be about 10 - 15% too high. As a result, even with the dehumidifer
set at 40%, the steady-state humidity in the room barely goes below 50%.

I checked the warranty and it only applies to the sealed components
(condenser, compressor, etc) so I opened the unit and found no evidence of a
humidistat adjustment or trimmer. The humidity sensor is mounted on the
inner frame of the unit, within the stream of air flow between back to
front, next to the sides of the coils. When it has stopped running at an
ambient humidity of 50% (even though set to 40%) it restarts again when I
blow moist air from my mouth at the sensor.

It looks to be sourced from LG, and browsing in stores I see newer units
which allow set points down to 30% relative humidity, as well as low
temperature operation. I'm toying with the idea of simply replacing the
unit, but wonder if it's worth the expense of having a non-warranty
failure repaired - or the hassle of ordering a replacement sensor and
trying it myself.

Any thoughts

My first thought is to rewire the unit with a remote humidstat.
The control really does not work all that well mounted
internally. Its kind of like a feedback system, since water
collected in the unit, evaporates and affects the internal
humidstat. I don't know whats more cost effective
as far a solutions. Try replacing the sensor???

I thought of the placement of the sensor itself; however, I wonder about
its viability since this _used_ to work relatively accurately, and the
room and the basement it's in have not changed.

The fault can be the humidity sensor, control board, or that the
cooling is a little weak due to some of the gas leaking out (bad
seals), or the lack of proper pressure from the condensor.

The service rep for your machine can test for the faults, and service
them. If you have an extended warrenty, this should all be covered.


Jerry G.
======




Mike S. wrote:
[I've cross posted this to what seemed to be the most appropriate places;
no flames please]


I have a 4-year old Kenmore 65-pint dehumidifer which sits in a basement
room containing electronics, etc. and I keep the relative humidity below
50%. It has functioned well until I turned it on for this summer season
(in the winter, hot air from the furnace keeps the room dry as a bone).
Nothing has changed in the room, or the basement, which would affect the
ease with which humidity could leak back into the room.

I keep a digital thermometer/hygrometer in the room (double-checked for
accuracy with another unit elsewhere in the house). The problem seems to
be the (digital) humidistat (which has a range of 40 - 60%) which now
seems to be about 10 - 15% too high. As a result, even with the dehumidifer
set at 40%, the steady-state humidity in the room barely goes below 50%.

I checked the warranty and it only applies to the sealed components
(condenser, compressor, etc) so I opened the unit and found no evidence of a
humidistat adjustment or trimmer. The humidity sensor is mounted on the
inner frame of the unit, within the stream of air flow between back to
front, next to the sides of the coils. When it has stopped running at an
ambient humidity of 50% (even though set to 40%) it restarts again when I
blow moist air from my mouth at the sensor.

It looks to be sourced from LG, and browsing in stores I see newer units
which allow set points down to 30% relative humidity, as well as low
temperature operation. I'm toying with the idea of simply replacing the
unit, but wonder if it's worth the expense of having a non-warranty
failure repaired - or the hassle of ordering a replacement sensor and
trying it myself.

Any thoughts?

"Jerry G." writes:

The fault can be the humidity sensor, control board, or that the
cooling is a little weak due to some of the gas leaking out (bad
seals), or the lack of proper pressure from the condensor.

The service rep for your machine can test for the faults, and service
them. If you have an extended warrenty, this should all be covered.

A couple tests to determine if it is a sensor problem or a loss of coolant
(which may be under your warranty) would be

1. After it's been running for a 15 minutes or so, are the evaporator coils
(the cold ones) more or less uniformly cold without ice? If they are,
then the sealed system is working fine. If only part of the coil is
cold and/or there is ice, then it's low on coolant.

2. If you set the humidistat at 50 percent, does it maintain 50 percent, or
would it then be around 60 percent? In the latter case, it's a sensor
problem.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.


Mike S. wrote:
[I've cross posted this to what seemed to be the most appropriate places;
no flames please]


I have a 4-year old Kenmore 65-pint dehumidifer which sits in a basement
room containing electronics, etc. and I keep the relative humidity below
50%. It has functioned well until I turned it on for this summer season
(in the winter, hot air from the furnace keeps the room dry as a bone).
Nothing has changed in the room, or the basement, which would affect the
ease with which humidity could leak back into the room.

I keep a digital thermometer/hygrometer in the room (double-checked for
accuracy with another unit elsewhere in the house). The problem seems to
be the (digital) humidistat (which has a range of 40 - 60%) which now
seems to be about 10 - 15% too high. As a result, even with the dehumidifer
set at 40%, the steady-state humidity in the room barely goes below 50%.

I checked the warranty and it only applies to the sealed components
(condenser, compressor, etc) so I opened the unit and found no evidence of a
humidistat adjustment or trimmer. The humidity sensor is mounted on the
inner frame of the unit, within the stream of air flow between back to
front, next to the sides of the coils. When it has stopped running at an
ambient humidity of 50% (even though set to 40%) it restarts again when I
blow moist air from my mouth at the sensor.

It looks to be sourced from LG, and browsing in stores I see newer units
which allow set points down to 30% relative humidity, as well as low
temperature operation. I'm toying with the idea of simply replacing the
unit, but wonder if it's worth the expense of having a non-warranty
failure repaired - or the hassle of ordering a replacement sensor and
trying it myself.

Any thoughts?

Given their cost of a new unit and the rip off sears service price your
much better off replacing the unit

" writes:

Given their cost of a new unit and the rip off sears service price your
much better off replacing the unit

Heck, and I always thought this was a repair newsgroup. Seras isn't the
only option for repair.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

In article ,
Sam Goldwasser wrote:
"Jerry G." writes:

The fault can be the humidity sensor, control board, or that the
cooling is a little weak due to some of the gas leaking out (bad
seals), or the lack of proper pressure from the condensor.

The service rep for your machine can test for the faults, and service
them. If you have an extended warrenty, this should all be covered.

A couple tests to determine if it is a sensor problem or a loss of coolant
(which may be under your warranty) would be

1. After it's been running for a 15 minutes or so, are the evaporator coils
(the cold ones) more or less uniformly cold without ice? If they are,
then the sealed system is working fine. If only part of the coil is
cold and/or there is ice, then it's low on coolant.

OK. After running a few minutes, the center coils are definitely cooler
than the ones towards the top and bottom of the evaporator.

2. If you set the humidistat at 50 percent, does it maintain 50 percent, or
would it then be around 60 percent? In the latter case, it's a sensor
problem.

The unit consistently maintains a steady-state humidity 10 - 15% higher
than the set point.

In article ,
Sam Goldwasser wrote:
" writes:

Given their cost of a new unit and the rip off sears service price your
much better off replacing the unit

Heck, and I always thought this was a repair newsgroup. Seras isn't the
only option for repair.

I looked up the unit in the parts database and found that I can order a
replacement sensor assembly for $21. I will replace that first, and if
there is still a coolant issue once the humidistat issue is resolved, will
bring it in for warranty service (since the warranty only covers the
sealed coolant assembly).

In article , (Mike S.) wrote:

In article ,
Sam Goldwasser wrote:
"Jerry G." writes:

The fault can be the humidity sensor, control board, or that the
cooling is a little weak due to some of the gas leaking out (bad
seals), or the lack of proper pressure from the condensor.

The service rep for your machine can test for the faults, and service
them. If you have an extended warrenty, this should all be covered.

A couple tests to determine if it is a sensor problem or a loss of coolant
(which may be under your warranty) would be

1. After it's been running for a 15 minutes or so, are the evaporator coils
(the cold ones) more or less uniformly cold without ice? If they are,
then the sealed system is working fine. If only part of the coil is
cold and/or there is ice, then it's low on coolant.

OK. After running a few minutes, the center coils are definitely cooler
than the ones towards the top and bottom of the evaporator.

2. If you set the humidistat at 50 percent, does it maintain 50 percent, or
would it then be around 60 percent? In the latter case, it's a sensor
problem.

The unit consistently maintains a steady-state humidity 10 - 15% higher
than the set point.

If the unit shuts off, they you still have reserve capacity.
I have one unit I have had for many years. It just started to show
signs of loosing freon. The last parts of the coil starts freezing.
Its still working though. Watching the moisture build up on
the coils will show if its basically working.

(Mike S.) writes:

In article ,
Sam Goldwasser wrote:
"Jerry G." writes:

The fault can be the humidity sensor, control board, or that the
cooling is a little weak due to some of the gas leaking out (bad
seals), or the lack of proper pressure from the condensor.

The service rep for your machine can test for the faults, and service
them. If you have an extended warrenty, this should all be covered.

A couple tests to determine if it is a sensor problem or a loss of coolant
(which may be under your warranty) would be

1. After it's been running for a 15 minutes or so, are the evaporator coils
(the cold ones) more or less uniformly cold without ice? If they are,
then the sealed system is working fine. If only part of the coil is
cold and/or there is ice, then it's low on coolant.

OK. After running a few minutes, the center coils are definitely cooler
than the ones towards the top and bottom of the evaporator.

Probably not significant as long as no not cold-at-all or frozen coils.

2. If you set the humidistat at 50 percent, does it maintain 50 percent, or
would it then be around 60 percent? In the latter case, it's a sensor
problem.

The unit consistently maintains a steady-state humidity 10 - 15% higher
than the set point.

OK, that does sound like a sensor problem. There really should be some
way of adjusting the humidistat. You can also probably just buy an
aftermarket humisistat and mount it in there somehow. It should just
be a switch that turns the thing on when the humidity goes above the
set-point.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

(Mike S.) writes:

In article ,
Sam Goldwasser wrote:
" writes:

Given their cost of a new unit and the rip off sears service price your
much better off replacing the unit

Heck, and I always thought this was a repair newsgroup. Seras isn't the
only option for repair.

I looked up the unit in the parts database and found that I can order a
replacement sensor assembly for $21. I will replace that first, and if
there is still a coolant issue once the humidistat issue is resolved, will
bring it in for warranty service (since the warranty only covers the
sealed coolant assembly).

Sounds like a plan. But do take another look at the humidistat. There
may be some magic screw you have overlooked.

It's quite possible for these things to shift calibration. It's probably
just a strip of a plastic-like material (used to be human hair but I don't
think they use that anymore!) that changes length depending on humidity.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

(GregS) writes:

In article , (Mike S.) wrote:

In article ,
Sam Goldwasser wrote:
"Jerry G." writes:

The fault can be the humidity sensor, control board, or that the
cooling is a little weak due to some of the gas leaking out (bad
seals), or the lack of proper pressure from the condensor.

The service rep for your machine can test for the faults, and service
them. If you have an extended warrenty, this should all be covered.

A couple tests to determine if it is a sensor problem or a loss of coolant
(which may be under your warranty) would be

1. After it's been running for a 15 minutes or so, are the evaporator coils
(the cold ones) more or less uniformly cold without ice? If they are,
then the sealed system is working fine. If only part of the coil is
cold and/or there is ice, then it's low on coolant.

OK. After running a few minutes, the center coils are definitely cooler
than the ones towards the top and bottom of the evaporator.

2. If you set the humidistat at 50 percent, does it maintain 50 percent, or
would it then be around 60 percent? In the latter case, it's a sensor
problem.

The unit consistently maintains a steady-state humidity 10 - 15% higher
than the set point.

If the unit shuts off, they you still have reserve capacity.
I have one unit I have had for many years. It just started to show
signs of loosing freon. The last parts of the coil starts freezing.
Its still working though. Watching the moisture build up on
the coils will show if its basically working.

Good point:

3. If unit shuts off without reaching humidity set-point, not a cooling
problem.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

In article ,
Sam Goldwasser wrote:
(Mike S.) writes:

In article ,
Sam Goldwasser wrote:
" writes:

Given their cost of a new unit and the rip off sears service price your
much better off replacing the unit

Heck, and I always thought this was a repair newsgroup. Seras isn't the
only option for repair.

I looked up the unit in the parts database and found that I can order a
replacement sensor assembly for $21. I will replace that first, and if
there is still a coolant issue once the humidistat issue is resolved, will
bring it in for warranty service (since the warranty only covers the
sealed coolant assembly).

Sounds like a plan. But do take another look at the humidistat. There
may be some magic screw you have overlooked.

It's quite possible for these things to shift calibration. It's probably
just a strip of a plastic-like material (used to be human hair but I don't
think they use that anymore!) that changes length depending on humidity.

The humidity setting is via a digital touch panel in front. I don't see
any way to tweak the adjustment as the sensor assembly is simply attached
by a long cable to the back of the PC board on the control panel.

Sam Goldwasser wrote:
(Mike S.) writes:

In article ,
Sam Goldwasser wrote:
" writes:

Given their cost of a new unit and the rip off sears service price your
much better off replacing the unit

Heck, and I always thought this was a repair newsgroup. Seras isn't the
only option for repair.

I looked up the unit in the parts database and found that I can order a
replacement sensor assembly for $21. I will replace that first, and if
there is still a coolant issue once the humidistat issue is resolved, will
bring it in for warranty service (since the warranty only covers the
sealed coolant assembly).

Sounds like a plan. But do take another look at the humidistat. There
may be some magic screw you have overlooked.

It's quite possible for these things to shift calibration. It's probably
just a strip of a plastic-like material (used to be human hair but I don't
think they use that anymore!) that changes length depending on humidity.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

somone suggested taking it in for service they charge so much thats a
loser. I repair machines for a living but some new stuff today is so
cheap and parts so expensive if available at all your just better off
replacing it

(Mike S.) writes:

In article ,
Sam Goldwasser wrote:
(Mike S.) writes:

In article ,
Sam Goldwasser wrote:
" writes:

Given their cost of a new unit and the rip off sears service price your
much better off replacing the unit

Heck, and I always thought this was a repair newsgroup. Seras isn't the
only option for repair.

I looked up the unit in the parts database and found that I can order a
replacement sensor assembly for $21. I will replace that first, and if
there is still a coolant issue once the humidistat issue is resolved, will
bring it in for warranty service (since the warranty only covers the
sealed coolant assembly).

Sounds like a plan. But do take another look at the humidistat. There
may be some magic screw you have overlooked.

It's quite possible for these things to shift calibration. It's probably
just a strip of a plastic-like material (used to be human hair but I don't
think they use that anymore!) that changes length depending on humidity.

The humidity setting is via a digital touch panel in front. I don't see
any way to tweak the adjustment as the sensor assembly is simply attached
by a long cable to the back of the PC board on the control panel.

What's in the sensor assembly? If it changes resistance or something like
that perhaps it could be faked out.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

In article ,
Sam Goldwasser wrote:
(Mike S.) writes:

In article ,
Sam Goldwasser wrote:
(Mike S.) writes:

In article ,
Sam Goldwasser wrote:
" writes:

Given their cost of a new unit and the rip off sears service price your
much better off replacing the unit

Heck, and I always thought this was a repair newsgroup. Seras isn't the
only option for repair.

I looked up the unit in the parts database and found that I can order a
replacement sensor assembly for $21. I will replace that first, and if
there is still a coolant issue once the humidistat issue is resolved, will
bring it in for warranty service (since the warranty only covers the
sealed coolant assembly).

Sounds like a plan. But do take another look at the humidistat. There
may be some magic screw you have overlooked.

It's quite possible for these things to shift calibration. It's probably
just a strip of a plastic-like material (used to be human hair but I don't
think they use that anymore!) that changes length depending on humidity.

The humidity setting is via a digital touch panel in front. I don't see
any way to tweak the adjustment as the sensor assembly is simply attached
by a long cable to the back of the PC board on the control panel.

What's in the sensor assembly? If it changes resistance or something like
that perhaps it could be faked out.

I haven't removed or opened it. It's a small white box with a grating in
front, sort of looks like those little piezo sound transducers. Has a
3-pin connector on the bottom. Will look more closely when I open the case
to install the replacement.

In article , wrote:
Sam Goldwasser wrote:

If only part of the coil is
cold and/or there is ice, then it's low on coolant.

Why does ice indicate low coolant?

Its evaporating too much or too fast. The part that would normally start
to freeze when opperating nornally, is past the coils. When there is too much freon,
there is not enough evaporation.


greg

GregS wrote:
In article , wrote:
Sam Goldwasser wrote:

If only part of the coil is
cold and/or there is ice, then it's low on coolant.

Why does ice indicate low coolant?

Its evaporating too much or too fast. The part that would normally start
to freeze when opperating nornally, is past the coils. When there is too much freon,
there is not enough evaporation.


greg

a friend who works for sears reported getting may dehumidifers back and
finding the digital control boards failed often.

see the store they might just give you a new one if its the bad model...

In article . com, " wrote:

GregS wrote:
In article ,
wrote:
Sam Goldwasser wrote:

If only part of the coil is
cold and/or there is ice, then it's low on coolant.

Why does ice indicate low coolant?

Its evaporating too much or too fast. The part that would normally start
to freeze when opperating nornally, is past the coils. When there is too much
freon,
there is not enough evaporation.


greg

a friend who works for sears reported getting may dehumidifers back and
finding the digital control boards failed often.

see the store they might just give you a new one if its the bad model...

Now the cheap way to get a really good dehumidifier, buy a $85 LG 5000 BTU
airconditioner, and use it. Just hook up a drain hose. OK you also put it in a window
in summer.

greg

T o d d P a t t i s t writes:

Sam Goldwasser wrote:

If only part of the coil is
cold and/or there is ice, then it's low on coolant.

Why does ice indicate low coolant?

If there isn't enough coolant, it basically expands and cools without
filling the entire evaporator coil and it gets colder in that limited
area.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

In article ,
Fred McKenzie wrote:
In article , (Mike S.) wrote:

The humidity setting is via a digital touch panel in front. I don't see
any way to tweak the adjustment as the sensor assembly is simply attached
by a long cable to the back of the PC board on the control panel.

Mike-

After setting, does the touch panel read out its version of actual
humidity? If it only shows the set point, you don't know whether it is
shutting off because it has reached the set point, or because the
compressor has shut down from an over-current condition.

It only displays the chosen set point; not the actual humidity.

It might just be a coincidence that the cycling compressor appears to
maintain a particular humidity level.

Hmmm. in any case, I'm replacing the sensor, so it should eliminate that
variable.

Mike S. wrote:
I haven't removed or opened it. It's a small white box with a grating in
front, sort of looks like those little piezo sound transducers. Has a
3-pin connector on the bottom. Will look more closely when I open the case
to install the replacement.

If it is the style I am familiar with it acts as a variable capacitor.
Something about a membrane that absorbs water with an electrode on each
side. When I used one it was in an oscillator circuit with a
microprocessor measuring the frequency. They are non-linear and
somewhat temperature dependent.

(Mike S.) wrote in
:



[I've cross posted this to what seemed to be the most appropriate
places; no flames please]


I have a 4-year old Kenmore 65-pint dehumidifer which sits in a
basement room containing electronics, etc. and I keep the relative
humidity below 50%. It has functioned well until I turned it on for
this summer season (in the winter, hot air from the furnace keeps the
room dry as a bone). Nothing has changed in the room, or the basement,
which would affect the ease with which humidity could leak back into
the room.

I keep a digital thermometer/hygrometer in the room (double-checked
for accuracy with another unit elsewhere in the house). The problem
seems to be the (digital) humidistat (which has a range of 40 - 60%)
which now seems to be about 10 - 15% too high. As a result, even with
the dehumidifer set at 40%, the steady-state humidity in the room
barely goes below 50%.

I checked the warranty and it only applies to the sealed components
(condenser, compressor, etc) so I opened the unit and found no
evidence of a humidistat adjustment or trimmer. The humidity sensor is
mounted on the inner frame of the unit, within the stream of air flow
between back to front, next to the sides of the coils. When it has
stopped running at an ambient humidity of 50% (even though set to 40%)
it restarts again when I blow moist air from my mouth at the sensor.

It looks to be sourced from LG, and browsing in stores I see newer
units which allow set points down to 30% relative humidity, as well as
low temperature operation. I'm toying with the idea of simply
replacing the unit, but wonder if it's worth the expense of having a
non-warranty failure repaired - or the hassle of ordering a
replacement sensor and trying it myself.

Any thoughts?



Mike,

I went through 5 dehumidifiers in one summer due to bad humidity sensors.
I then found gas leaks at a few black pipe joints. "Knock on wood" the
latest dehumidifier has not changed since new, but I have to set it at
35% to get 66% humidity (an obvious calibration offset) . If the gas
polution wasn't the cause, There is a really bad quality issue with
dehumidifiers with many manufacturers, I.E. Maytag, LG, Goldstar,
Whirlpool and GE with the above humidity accuracy problem. The humidity
readouts just pegged at the top of the scale and the compressors would
not run.

I wish I could find a good old horses hair or cellophane humidistat
controled unit!!

Dave M.

On 23 Jun 2006 11:22:49 -0700, " wrote:

a friend who works for sears reported getting may dehumidifers back and
finding the digital control boards failed often.

see the store they might just give you a new one if its the bad model...

You will get better results if you write to the Sears president. Someone in
his office will take care of the problem.

Don www.donwiss.com (e-mail link at home page bottom).

In article ,
Shawn D'Alimonte wrote:
Mike S. wrote:
I haven't removed or opened it. It's a small white box with a grating in
front, sort of looks like those little piezo sound transducers. Has a
3-pin connector on the bottom. Will look more closely when I open the case
to install the replacement.

If it is the style I am familiar with it acts as a variable capacitor.
Something about a membrane that absorbs water with an electrode on each
side. When I used one it was in an oscillator circuit with a
microprocessor measuring the frequency. They are non-linear and
somewhat temperature dependent.

I was hoping you'd say there is a trimmer adjustment on the back :-) ....

(Mike S.) writes:

In article ,
Shawn D'Alimonte wrote:
Mike S. wrote:
I haven't removed or opened it. It's a small white box with a grating in
front, sort of looks like those little piezo sound transducers. Has a
3-pin connector on the bottom. Will look more closely when I open the case
to install the replacement.

If it is the style I am familiar with it acts as a variable capacitor.
Something about a membrane that absorbs water with an electrode on each
side. When I used one it was in an oscillator circuit with a
microprocessor measuring the frequency. They are non-linear and
somewhat temperature dependent.

I was hoping you'd say there is a trimmer adjustment on the back :-) ....

But if it is a capacitor, you could add a trimmer or fixed cap in series
or parallel to change the setpoint.

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In article ,
Sam Goldwasser wrote:
(Mike S.) writes:

In article ,
Shawn D'Alimonte wrote:
Mike S. wrote:
I haven't removed or opened it. It's a small white box with a grating in
front, sort of looks like those little piezo sound transducers. Has a
3-pin connector on the bottom. Will look more closely when I open the case
to install the replacement.

If it is the style I am familiar with it acts as a variable capacitor.
Something about a membrane that absorbs water with an electrode on each
side. When I used one it was in an oscillator circuit with a
microprocessor measuring the frequency. They are non-linear and
somewhat temperature dependent.

I was hoping you'd say there is a trimmer adjustment on the back :-) ....

But if it is a capacitor, you could add a trimmer or fixed cap in series
or parallel to change the setpoint.

Thanks for that .. when swap in the replacement I will examine the
existing sensor for possible future intervention.

Follow-up to this thread: Basement getting awfully damp while I wait for
the replacement sensor. In the end I took it to Sears for an estimate.
They acknowledged that it had 1 year remaining warranty on the sealed
components (but not the rest). Today (2 weeks after drop-off) I received
two messages from Sears on my answering machine.

The first message was an apology for the delay, and they would be
contacting me soon.

The second was a statement that Sears had decided to replace the
dehumidifier rather than attempt repair; and I would be notified shortly
when to pick up the new unit.

When I pick it up, I'll turn in the sensor for credit. All's well that
ends well ... though I suppose I won't know for sure now whether the
problem was the coolant or the electronics/sensor.