Magnavox VCR VR9035AT01 with power-supply Assy. No. VEPS0198

Could you have a look at:

http://members.shaw.ca/haruspex/Magnavox.htm

Any idea what that component labeled "PR1" is?

There's +5.2V on one side of it, open on the other.

This all started as my VCR started to die.

First, some tuner problems, then the lights on dim when things should have
been bright, then nothing at all, no signs of life. Enough problems to
have me look at the power supply first, but I can't fugure out what this
component is.

Any insight would be appreciated.

- Ralph

On Sat, 30 Jul 2005 21:46:08 GMT, Ralph Innes
put finger to keyboard and composed:

Magnavox VCR VR9035AT01 with power-supply Assy. No. VEPS0198

Could you have a look at:

http://members.shaw.ca/haruspex/Magnavox.htm

Any idea what that component labeled "PR1" is?

There's +5.2V on one side of it, open on the other.

This all started as my VCR started to die.

First, some tuner problems, then the lights on dim when things should have
been bright, then nothing at all, no signs of life. Enough problems to
have me look at the power supply first, but I can't fugure out what this
component is.

Any insight would be appreciated.

- Ralph

It looks like a "circuit protector chip", probably 1.5A:

See http://wagner.net.au/Catalogue/02_21.pdf


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

On Sun, 31 Jul 2005 08:08:42 +1000, Franc Zabkar
put finger to keyboard and composed:

On Sat, 30 Jul 2005 21:46:08 GMT, Ralph Innes
put finger to keyboard and composed:

Magnavox VCR VR9035AT01 with power-supply Assy. No. VEPS0198

Could you have a look at:

http://members.shaw.ca/haruspex/Magnavox.htm

Any idea what that component labeled "PR1" is?


It looks like a "circuit protector chip", probably 1.5A:

See http://wagner.net.au/Catalogue/02_21.pdf

The part is probably an ICPF38L formerly made by Rohm. Similar parts
(in different packages) are he

http://www.rohm.com/products/shortfo.../ic_index.html


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

Many thanks, Franc!

This experience comes within a week of my Magnavox TV conking out. They
were both purchased at the same time - how's that for timing?

I had no horizontal sync, and quick look in the horiz. dept. revealed a
100uf 200V cap, whose vinyl sleeve had sagged to look like a Shar-Pei.

I'd hoped this would be another cake-walk. No such luck.

Something "out there" is cooking this CP-chip...

Thanks again,

- Ralph

Franc Zabkar wrote in
:

On Sat, 30 Jul 2005 21:46:08 GMT, Ralph Innes
put finger to keyboard and composed:

Magnavox VCR VR9035AT01 with power-supply Assy. No. VEPS0198

Could you have a look at:

http://members.shaw.ca/haruspex/Magnavox.htm

Any idea what that component labeled "PR1" is?

There's +5.2V on one side of it, open on the other.

This all started as my VCR started to die.

First, some tuner problems, then the lights on dim when things should
have been bright, then nothing at all, no signs of life. Enough
problems to have me look at the power supply first, but I can't fugure
out what this component is.

Any insight would be appreciated.

- Ralph

It looks like a "circuit protector chip", probably 1.5A:

See http://wagner.net.au/Catalogue/02_21.pdf


- Franc Zabkar

Thanks, Parrot Chap!

Yes. All I have to do is...

Maybe a 5-amp automotive fuse, and watch for smoke.

Thanks again,

- Ralph

that parrot chap wrote in
:

On Sat, 30 Jul 2005 21:46:08 GMT, Ralph Innes
wrote:

Magnavox VCR VR9035AT01 with power-supply Assy. No. VEPS0198

Could you have a look at:

http://members.shaw.ca/haruspex/Magnavox.htm

Any idea what that component labeled "PR1" is?

There's +5.2V on one side of it, open on the other.

This all started as my VCR started to die.

First, some tuner problems, then the lights on dim when things should
have been bright, then nothing at all, no signs of life. Enough
problems to have me look at the power supply first, but I can't fugure
out what this component is.

Any insight would be appreciated.

- Ralph

a quick Google reveals all

It is an ICP rated at 1.5A, now all you have to do is find what caused
it to blow!

"Ralph Innes" wrote in message
11...
Thanks, Parrot Chap!

Yes. All I have to do is...

Maybe a 5-amp automotive fuse, and watch for smoke.

Thanks again,



Yikes, try a 1 or 1.5A glass fuse, they're easy enough to come by and wires
can be soldered to them if you don't have the pigtail versions handy.

Nah, go with the 5A and lets see some smoke!!
"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:xzZGe.8293$DJ5.8241@trnddc07...

"Ralph Innes" wrote in message
11...
Thanks, Parrot Chap!

Yes. All I have to do is...

Maybe a 5-amp automotive fuse, and watch for smoke.

Thanks again,



Yikes, try a 1 or 1.5A glass fuse, they're easy enough to come by and
wires
can be soldered to them if you don't have the pigtail versions handy.

Hi!

http://members.shaw.ca/haruspex/Magnavox.htm

What's that green thing with red spots? It looks like a misplaced olive! :-)

William

"William R. Walsh" schreef in
bericht news:Kg8He.228184$xm3.56415@attbi_s21...
Hi!

http://members.shaw.ca/haruspex/Magnavox.htm

What's that green thing with red spots? It looks like a misplaced olive!
:-)


A coil.


Maurits

I had the gin & vermouth already poured, before I noticed it says "L3" on
the PC=board. So I'd guess it's a choke. (As in, "the choke's on me...)

- Ralph

"William R. Walsh" wrote in
news:Kg8He.228184$xm3.56415@attbi_s21:

Hi!

http://members.shaw.ca/haruspex/Magnavox.htm

What's that green thing with red spots? It looks like a misplaced
olive! :-)

William

A progress report.

I took out the PC Protector, and put a 3-amp fuse in series with my DMM,
and it only drew 0.31 amps when "off". When turned "on", it drew 0.36
amps.

The panel leds were not visible at all in "off" position, and very dim in
"on" position, which is not Kosher.

However, it was possible to switch the VCR on/off with the remote, which
is progress.

I guess whatever fried that PC Protector is now fried itself.

More sleuthing in the dark...

- Ralph

Franc Zabkar wrote in
:

On Sat, 30 Jul 2005 21:46:08 GMT, Ralph Innes
put finger to keyboard and composed:

Magnavox VCR VR9035AT01 with power-supply Assy. No. VEPS0198

Could you have a look at:

http://members.shaw.ca/haruspex/Magnavox.htm

Any idea what that component labeled "PR1" is?

There's +5.2V on one side of it, open on the other.

This all started as my VCR started to die.

First, some tuner problems, then the lights on dim when things should
have been bright, then nothing at all, no signs of life. Enough
problems to have me look at the power supply first, but I can't fugure
out what this component is.

Any insight would be appreciated.

- Ralph

It looks like a "circuit protector chip", probably 1.5A:

See http://wagner.net.au/Catalogue/02_21.pdf


- Franc Zabkar

"simon hanlon" wrote in message
...
Nah, go with the 5A and lets see some smoke!!
"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:xzZGe.8293$DJ5.8241@trnddc07...

"Ralph Innes" wrote in message
11...
Thanks, Parrot Chap!

Yes. All I have to do is...

Maybe a 5-amp automotive fuse, and watch for smoke.

Thanks again,



Yikes, try a 1 or 1.5A glass fuse, they're easy enough to come by and
wires
can be soldered to them if you don't have the pigtail versions handy.





Really, In my experiance, When you try and solder wires to a glass fuse,
the fuse element, which is soldered to the inside of the end cap, falls off
and the fuse is now trash...

Pat Ziegler
Wholesale ELectronics Inc.

www.weisd.com

DBLEXPOSURE wrote:

Really, In my experiance, When you try and solder wires to a glass fuse,
the fuse element, which is soldered to the inside of the end cap, falls off
and the fuse is now trash...


I used to do it all the time to fast blow fuses. You had to file the
chrome off the end cap and use a large, hot soldering iron and work
fast. You don't want to heat up the solder inside, so you tin the wire
loop and leave a small ball of solder. After the chrome is removed you
put a drop of liquid rosin flux between the end of the fuse and the wire
with the ball of solder, then touch the ball of solder with the iron. I
used a 175 Watt Weller iron and it only took a second to flow the solder
to the cap. If you don't get the proper flow you let it cool then add
another drop of flux and try again. Once you have the hang of it, the
iron takes longer to heat than to do the rest of the job.


--
Link to my "Computers for disabled Veterans" project website deleted
after threats were telephoned to my church.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 23:15:48 -0500, "DBLEXPOSURE"
wrote:


"simon hanlon" wrote in message
...
Nah, go with the 5A and lets see some smoke!!
"James Sweet" wrote in message
news:xzZGe.8293$DJ5.8241@trnddc07...

"Ralph Innes" wrote in message
11...
Thanks, Parrot Chap!

Yes. All I have to do is...

Maybe a 5-amp automotive fuse, and watch for smoke.

Thanks again,



Yikes, try a 1 or 1.5A glass fuse, they're easy enough to come by and
wires
can be soldered to them if you don't have the pigtail versions handy.





Really, In my experiance, When you try and solder wires to a glass fuse,
the fuse element, which is soldered to the inside of the end cap, falls off
and the fuse is now trash...

Not every time...

Tom


Pat Ziegler
Wholesale ELectronics Inc.

www.weisd.com