[Nosstech]

I have a a variable speed router (on a router table). I purchased a
set of molding router bits. When I place my 1x4 on my table and feed
it to the bit... the router will violently take the wood right from my
hand. I have the router set on the lowest speed possible and it still
"shoots" the board 10 feet away. I almost took my dad's head off!!!

Any idea how I can control the board so I can get a clean, usable cut
from the router and bits?

The router bits are approx. 3 1/2 inches in hight.

Thanks.
Barry

[Chuck Taylor]

On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 07:11:51 -0700, Nosstech
wrote:

I have a a variable speed router (on a router table). I purchased a
set of molding router bits. When I place my 1x4 on my table and feed
it to the bit... the router will violently take the wood right from my
hand. I have the router set on the lowest speed possible and it still
"shoots" the board 10 feet away. I almost took my dad's head off!!!

Any idea how I can control the board so I can get a clean, usable cut
from the router and bits?

The router bits are approx. 3 1/2 inches in hight.


Feed the boards right-to-left across the router bit. It sounds like
you're feeding them in the opposite direction, which results in a
"climb cut", which as you've discovered is very dangerous.


--
Chuck Taylor
http://home.hiwaay.net/~taylorc/contact/

[tom]

On Sep 6, 7:11 am, Nosstech wrote:
I have a a variable speed router (on a router table). I purchased a
set of molding router bits. When I place my 1x4 on my table and feed
it to the bit... the router will violently take the wood right from my
hand. I have the router set on the lowest speed possible and it still
"shoots" the board 10 feet away. I almost took my dad's head off!!!

Any idea how I can control the board so I can get a clean, usable cut
from the router and bits?

The router bits are approx. 3 1/2 inches in hight.

Thanks.
Barry

Number one: Be sure you're feeding in the proper direction, against
the rotation of the bit. Number two: Take smaller bites, maybe using
a fence to limit depth of cut. Three: Get a primer that covers basic
techniques and safety(this probably could be number one, eh?). Good
luck. Tom

[Charlie M. 1958]

Nosstech wrote:
I have a a variable speed router (on a router table). I purchased a
set of molding router bits. When I place my 1x4 on my table and feed
it to the bit... the router will violently take the wood right from my
hand. I have the router set on the lowest speed possible and it still
"shoots" the board 10 feet away. I almost took my dad's head off!!!

Any idea how I can control the board so I can get a clean, usable cut
from the router and bits?

The router bits are approx. 3 1/2 inches in hight.

Thanks.
Barry

Are you feeding the board into the cutter (right-to-left) as you should
be? If that isn't the problem, try making shallower passes. Using a
featherboard setup might help also. Another thought: you're not feeding
the board between the bit and the fence, are you?

[Nosstech]

On Sep 6, 10:24 am, Chuck Taylor wrote:
On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 07:11:51 -0700, Nosstech
wrote:

I have a a variable speed router (on a router table). I purchased a
set of molding router bits. When I place my 1x4 on my table and feed
it to the bit... the router will violently take the wood right from my
hand. I have the router set on the lowest speed possible and it still
"shoots" the board 10 feet away. I almost took my dad's head off!!!

Any idea how I can control the board so I can get a clean, usable cut
from the router and bits?

The router bits are approx. 3 1/2 inches in hight.

Feed the boards right-to-left across the router bit. It sounds like
you're feeding them in the opposite direction, which results in a
"climb cut", which as you've discovered is very dangerous.

--
Chuck Taylorhttp://home.hiwaay.net/~taylorc/contact/

I am feeding the boards from right-to-left (as you look at the router
table), the same way the bit is spinning. Is that right or should I
feed the board in the opposite way the bit is spinning (left-to-right
as you look at the table)?

Thanks

[Nosstech]

On Sep 6, 10:25 am, tom wrote:
On Sep 6, 7:11 am, Nosstech wrote:

I have a a variable speed router (on a router table). I purchased a
set of molding router bits. When I place my 1x4 on my table and feed
it to the bit... the router will violently take the wood right from my
hand. I have the router set on the lowest speed possible and it still
"shoots" the board 10 feet away. I almost took my dad's head off!!!

Any idea how I can control the board so I can get a clean, usable cut
from the router and bits?

The router bits are approx. 3 1/2 inches in hight.

Thanks.
Barry

Number one: Be sure you're feeding in the proper direction, against
the rotation of the bit. Number two: Take smaller bites, maybe using
a fence to limit depth of cut. Three: Get a primer that covers basic
techniques and safety(this probably could be number one, eh?). Good
luck. Tom

Thanks Tom,

I will try this tonight and see how it works. I was feeding the board
in the direction the bit was spinning (right-to-left as you look at
the table). Should I feed against the rotation of the bit for every
bit (big or small) I use?

Thanks Again

[Nosstech]

On Sep 6, 10:25 am, "Charlie M. 1958"
wrote:
Nosstech wrote:
I have a a variable speed router (on a router table). I purchased a
set of molding router bits. When I place my 1x4 on my table and feed
it to the bit... the router will violently take the wood right from my
hand. I have the router set on the lowest speed possible and it still
"shoots" the board 10 feet away. I almost took my dad's head off!!!

Any idea how I can control the board so I can get a clean, usable cut
from the router and bits?

The router bits are approx. 3 1/2 inches in hight.

Thanks.
Barry

Are you feeding the board into the cutter (right-to-left) as you should
be? If that isn't the problem, try making shallower passes. Using a
featherboard setup might help also. Another thought: you're not feeding
the board between the bit and the fence, are you?

Yes, i set the depth with the fence and feed the board between the bit
and the fence. I was feeding the board from right-to-left (into the
rotation of the bit (counter clockwise)).

[Charlie M. 1958]

Nosstech wrote:


I will try this tonight and see how it works. I was feeding the board
in the direction the bit was spinning (right-to-left as you look at
the table). Should I feed against the rotation of the bit for every
bit (big or small) I use?

Thanks Again


Let's be real clear, Barry. As you look down at your router table, the
bit should be spinning counter-clockwise, and you should always be
feeding the stock right-to-left. (Occasionally a "climb-cut" is
appropriate, but you should read up on that before attempting).

[[email protected]]

On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 07:11:51 -0700, Nosstech
wrote:

The router bits are approx. 3 1/2 inches in hight.

Thanks.
Barry


Sounds like your taking the full cut at one go.
Move the fence closer to the bit, and take smaller cuts at a time.

Also think about a feather board system to hold the board tight to the
fence and table.

Never stand behind the outfeed side until you can control the feed
rate.

Pete

[tom]

On Sep 6, 7:38 am, Nosstech wrote:
On Sep 6, 10:25 am, "Charlie M. 1958"
wrote:



Nosstech wrote:
I have a a variable speed router (on a router table). I purchased a
set of molding router bits. When I place my 1x4 on my table and feed
it to the bit... the router will violently take the wood right from my
hand. I have the router set on the lowest speed possible and it still
"shoots" the board 10 feet away. I almost took my dad's head off!!!

Any idea how I can control the board so I can get a clean, usable cut
from the router and bits?

The router bits are approx. 3 1/2 inches in hight.

Thanks.
Barry

Are you feeding the board into the cutter (right-to-left) as you should
be? If that isn't the problem, try making shallower passes. Using a
featherboard setup might help also. Another thought: you're not feeding
the board between the bit and the fence, are you?

Yes, i set the depth with the fence and feed the board between the bit
and the fence. I was feeding the board from right-to-left (into the
rotation of the bit (counter clockwise)).

Heehee! Oh, sorry. Uh, don't do this. Tom

[Charlie M. 1958]

Nosstech wrote:
On Sep 6, 10:25 am, "Charlie M. 1958"
wrote:
Nosstech wrote:
I have a a variable speed router (on a router table). I purchased a
set of molding router bits. When I place my 1x4 on my table and feed
it to the bit... the router will violently take the wood right from my
hand. I have the router set on the lowest speed possible and it still
"shoots" the board 10 feet away. I almost took my dad's head off!!!
Any idea how I can control the board so I can get a clean, usable cut
from the router and bits?
The router bits are approx. 3 1/2 inches in hight.
Thanks.
Barry
Are you feeding the board into the cutter (right-to-left) as you should
be? If that isn't the problem, try making shallower passes. Using a
featherboard setup might help also. Another thought: you're not feeding
the board between the bit and the fence, are you?

Yes, i set the depth with the fence and feed the board between the bit
and the fence. I was feeding the board from right-to-left (into the
rotation of the bit (counter clockwise)).

Ouch..there is the problem. NEVER feed between the fence and the bit.
The fence should just support the workpiece as it passes over the bit.
Feeding as you are, right to left between the fence and the bit is like
shooting wood out of a cannon.

[Doug Miller]

In article om, Nosstech wrote:

I am feeding the boards from right-to-left (as you look at the router
table), the same way the bit is spinning.

In that case, you must have the workpiece on the opposite side of the bit from
you -- which means you're reaching your hands over the spinning bit. And, if
you're using a fence, you have the workpiece between the fence and the bit.

Both of these are highly unsafe conditions.

Is that right

No.

or should I
feed the board in the opposite way the bit is spinning (left-to-right
as you look at the table)?

If you're using a bearing-guided bit and no fence, then you should be feeding
the board from right to left, with the board between you and the bit.

If you're using a fence to guide the board, the bit needs to be in the middle
of the fence with only the cutting wings projecting beyond the face of the
fence. (Most router table fences are two-piece affairs to facilitate this. If
yours doesn't have two pieces, get one, or make an auxiliary fence, that
does.) Then you feed from right to left, with the board against the fence,
and, again, with the board between you and the bit.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

[Nosstech]

On Sep 6, 10:44 am, wrote:
On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 07:11:51 -0700, Nosstech
wrote:

The router bits are approx. 3 1/2 inches in hight.

Thanks.
Barry

Sounds like your taking the full cut at one go.
Move the fence closer to the bit, and take smaller cuts at a time.

Also think about a feather board system to hold the board tight to the
fence and table.

Never stand behind the outfeed side until you can control the feed
rate.

Pete

Pete,

Thanks for the info. I have received a ton of great tips today. Can I
buy a Feather Board at my lock home depot or lowes?

[Doug Miller]

In article om, Nosstech wrote:

I will try this tonight and see how it works. I was feeding the board
in the direction the bit was spinning (right-to-left as you look at
the table). Should I feed against the rotation of the bit for every
bit (big or small) I use?

Yes, ALWAYS. Feeding in the direction the bit is spinning is VERY dangerous.
In addition to the wood becoming a ballistic missile (as you've already
discovered), it can also pull your hands along with it when it launches --
right into the bit.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

[Nosstech]

On Sep 6, 10:52 am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article om, Nosstech wrote:
I will try this tonight and see how it works. I was feeding the board
in the direction the bit was spinning (right-to-left as you look at
the table). Should I feed against the rotation of the bit for every
bit (big or small) I use?

Yes, ALWAYS. Feeding in the direction the bit is spinning is VERY dangerous.
In addition to the wood becoming a ballistic missile (as you've already
discovered), it can also pull your hands along with it when it launches --
right into the bit.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Doug,

Thank you. I will use all of these tips tonight. Great info... As you
can tell, I am a little green when it comes to routing. Thanks Again.

[Patriarch]

Nosstech wrote in news:1189090258.734614.189120@
50g2000hsm.googlegroups.com:
snippage

Thanks for the info. I have received a ton of great tips today. Can I
buy a Feather Board at my lock home depot or lowes?



Maybe. You can get them at Rockler, or Woodcraft, or one of the other
specialty stores. Or make one or more.

Before you plug your router in again, spend some serious, focused time at
the following website: www.patwarner.com

Pat is a very experienced teacher, and knows more about routers than most
of us here. And has put together a website to make clear answers to
questions you didn't know you had.

Many of us started with similar experiences to what you describe. Most of
us got through them without stitches. Not all.

Be cautious. And read Pat's stuff.

Patriarch

[Upscale]

"Nosstech" wrote in message

I am feeding the boards from right-to-left (as you look at the router
table), the same way the bit is spinning. Is that right or should I
feed the board in the opposite way the bit is spinning (left-to-right
as you look at the table)?

You should be feeding into the boards so that the router tries to push back
towards you. When the router is upside down, the bit turns clockwise. Right
side up, it turns counter clockwise. That means as you push into the wood,
the bit will dig in and try to pull the router towards you. Obviously, you
would be holding it securely and pushing in the opposite direction away from
you along a board. In other words, the wood is on the right, the router is
on the left and you'd be pushing away.

I'd suggest to get used to it, try a small bit in soft wood like pine.

[Doug Miller]

In article , "Upscale" wrote:

"Nosstech" wrote in message

I am feeding the boards from right-to-left (as you look at the router
table), the same way the bit is spinning. Is that right or should I
feed the board in the opposite way the bit is spinning (left-to-right
as you look at the table)?

You should be feeding into the boards so that the router tries to push back
towards you. When the router is upside down, the bit turns clockwise. Right
side up, it turns counter clockwise.

You stated that backwards. Upside down, it's CCW; right side up, it's CW.

That means as you push into the wood,
the bit will dig in and try to pull the router towards you.

Not if you're feeding the wood in the proper direction, it won't.

If the bit is spinning toward the wood as it should be, the force exerted by
the bit on the wood is opposite to the direction of feed (i.e. toward the
operator), and the force exerted on the router is in the direction of feed
(i.e. away from the operator).

Obviously, you
would be holding it securely and pushing in the opposite direction away from
you along a board. In other words, the wood is on the right, the router is
on the left and you'd be pushing away.

And the wood is between you and the bit.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

[Doug Miller]

In article .com, Nosstech wrote:
On Sep 6, 10:52 am, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article om, Nosstech
wrote:
I will try this tonight and see how it works. I was feeding the board
in the direction the bit was spinning (right-to-left as you look at
the table). Should I feed against the rotation of the bit for every
bit (big or small) I use?

Yes, ALWAYS. Feeding in the direction the bit is spinning is VERY dangerous.
In addition to the wood becoming a ballistic missile (as you've already
discovered), it can also pull your hands along with it when it launches --
right into the bit.

Doug,

Thank you. I will use all of these tips tonight. Great info... As you
can tell, I am a little green when it comes to routing. Thanks Again.

You're welcome. Glad nobody got hurt -- doing it the way you were trying to
carries a serious potential for serious injury.

By the way... this should all be explained in the owner's manual that came
with your router... :-)

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

[dadiOH]

Nosstech wrote:
Thank you. I will use all of these tips tonight. Great info... As
you can tell, I am a little green when it comes to routing.

Be thankful you're not a little red. From blood.

Those are BIG bits you're using and you really shouldn't be using them
(or any other big bit) unless and until you know what you are doing.
I know perfectly well you won't follow that advice so, to recap...

1. Set your fence so that you are taking off a MAXIMUM of 1/8" of wood
from any point on the board.

2. The edge being cut is next to the fence; i.e., the progression of
things as you look from the front of the table is...
a. board to be cut
b. bit
c. fence

3. Run your board from right to left viewed as you stand in front of
the table.

4. Keep your hands away from the bit and the board tight against both
table and fence.

If that doesn't cut the full profile of the bit (probably won't), move
the fence back 1/8" and do another pass. Repeat as necessary, making
the last pass 1/16" or less to assure smoothest cutting finish.

Once you start cutting, keep the board moving. If you stop, the bit
will burn the wood. I can't tell you how *fast* to move the board as
that comes from experience and the sound. Which is why I never use
sound protection.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

[dadiOH]

Doug Miller wrote:

By the way... this should all be explained in the owner's manual
that came
with your router... :-)

Manual? Is that something like a help file?

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

[J. Clarke]

Nosstech wrote:
On Sep 6, 10:44 am, wrote:
On Thu, 06 Sep 2007 07:11:51 -0700, Nosstech
wrote:

The router bits are approx. 3 1/2 inches in hight.

Thanks.
Barry

Sounds like your taking the full cut at one go.
Move the fence closer to the bit, and take smaller cuts at a time.

Also think about a feather board system to hold the board tight to
the fence and table.

Never stand behind the outfeed side until you can control the feed
rate.

Pete

Pete,

Thanks for the info. I have received a ton of great tips today. Can
I
buy a Feather Board at my lock home depot or lowes?

Probably, but if you've got a 1x6, a saw, and a c-clamp it's easy to
make them. http://www.woodzone.com/tips/featherboard.htm isn't the
best set of instructions I've seen but it should be enough to give you
the general idea. Pick up a piece of oak at wherever you buy wood and
you should be set for featherboards for the rest of your life.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

[Puckdropper]

"dadiOH" wrote in news:0MXDi.13369$sf1.850
@trnddc01:

Doug Miller wrote:

By the way... this should all be explained in the owner's manual
that came
with your router... :-)

Manual? Is that something like a help file?


Sure, just press F1 on the router.

If you've got a Linux router, it's probably /command/ --help or man
/command/ :-)

Puckdropper
--
Wise is the man who attempts to answer his question before asking it.

To email me directly, send a message to puckdropper (at) fastmail.fm

[Upscale]

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
You stated that backwards. Upside down, it's CCW; right side up, it's CW.

You're right. I knew what I wanted to say, it just came out backwards.