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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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What wood you do?
Hello,
A tree blew over and I've been chainsawing it up. I noticed it seems to have some attractive heartwood. http://tinyurl.com/4vnhr5t I'm not much of a carpenter and while most of the tree, I think it was a Lime, will be going for firewood I'd like to make something nice to show. The only thought I've had so far is to polish a slice as a clock. I'd like suggestions, and tips, as to what to do with it. Whatever I did with it would I need to season it first to stop it from cracking over time? If so how? My late friend used to try turning bowls on his electric lathe but they always cracked. |
#2
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What wood you do?
Chade wrote:
Hello, A tree blew over and I've been chainsawing it up. I noticed it seems to have some attractive heartwood. http://tinyurl.com/4vnhr5t I'm not much of a carpenter and while most of the tree, I think it was a Lime, looks like a willow to me will be going for firewood I'd like to make something nice to show. The only thought I've had so far is to polish a slice as a clock. I'd like suggestions, and tips, as to what to do with it. Whatever I did with it would I need to season it first to stop it from cracking over time? If so how? The main reason wood cracks is because of differential shrinkage, the water needs to leave the wood at the same rate it can migrate from the inside, otherwise the inside stays swelled and the outside shrinks over it. The other thing about differential shrinkage is that the cells change shape more tangentially than radially ( and not a lot axially) so first step is the quarter them. Your logs have incipient rot and the green tinge suggests a bit of copper. Willow has an initial moisture content of ~60% AJH |
#3
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What wood you do?
"andrew" wrote in message ... Chade wrote: Hello, A tree blew over and I've been chainsawing it up. I noticed it seems to have some attractive heartwood. http://tinyurl.com/4vnhr5t I'm not much of a carpenter and while most of the tree, I think it was a Lime, looks like a willow to me will be going for firewood I'd like to make something nice to show. The only thought I've had so far is to polish a slice as a clock. I'd like suggestions, and tips, as to what to do with it. Whatever I did with it would I need to season it first to stop it from cracking over time? If so how? The main reason wood cracks is because of differential shrinkage, the water needs to leave the wood at the same rate it can migrate from the inside, otherwise the inside stays swelled and the outside shrinks over it. The other thing about differential shrinkage is that the cells change shape more tangentially than radially ( and not a lot axially) so first step is the quarter them. Your logs have incipient rot and the green tinge suggests a bit of copper. Willow has an initial moisture content of ~60% AJH http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRKVXG3DV-I (sorry) -- Graham. %Profound_observation% |
#4
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What wood you do?
"Chade" wrote in message
... Hello, A tree blew over and I've been chainsawing it up. I noticed it seems to have some attractive heartwood. http://tinyurl.com/4vnhr5t I'm not much of a carpenter and while most of the tree, I think it was a Lime, will be going for firewood I'd like to make something nice to show. The only thought I've had so far is to polish a slice as a clock. I'd like suggestions, and tips, as to what to do with it. Whatever I did with it would I need to season it first to stop it from cracking over time? If so how? My late friend used to try turning bowls on his electric lathe but they always cracked. I agree that it looks like willow and it is in a pretty bad state. As a firewood it will spit and crackle and produce lots of smoke. It is full of moisture and even after seasoning will crack badly. The bottom line is forget it! Peter Crosland |
#5
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What wood you do?
On Feb 6, 8:04*am, "Peter Crosland" wrote:
"Chade" wrote in message ... Hello, A tree blew over and I've been chainsawing it up. I noticed it seems to have some attractive heartwood. http://tinyurl.com/4vnhr5t I'm not much of a carpenter and while most of the tree, I think it was a Lime, will be going for firewood I'd like to make something nice to show. The only thought I've had so far is to polish a slice as a clock. I'd like suggestions, and tips, as to what to do with it. Whatever I did with it would I need to season it first to stop it from cracking over time? If so how? My late friend used to try turning bowls on his electric lathe but they always cracked. I agree that it looks like willow and it is in a pretty bad state. As a firewood it will spit and crackle and produce lots of smoke. It is full of moisture and even after seasoning will crack badly. The bottom line is forget it! Peter Crosland Have to agree - forget it totally. Willow isn't really a turning or carpentry wood and in reality isn't much use for burning either. This is all due to it's large water content which takes ages to disappear and then you are left with a wood that has grown very fast and has little calorific value or ability to be used structurally. The colours you are seeing are rot and that is the reason for the tree falling. Sorry to pour water on your parade. Rob |
#6
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What wood you do?
robgraham wrote:
Willow isn't really a turning or carpentry wood and in reality isn't much use for burning either. Â*This is all due to it's large water content which takes ages to disappear and then you are left with a wood that has grown very fast and has little calorific value. Generally yes but look at DRAX much of the stuff provided by renewable growers is willow asrc. Most woods have about the same calorific value when dried to the same mc. Even willow dries quite fast when split and under cover. AJH |
#7
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What wood you do?
On Feb 5, 10:06*pm, Chade wrote:
Hello, A tree blew over and I've been chainsawing it up. I noticed it seems to have some attractive heartwood. http://tinyurl.com/4vnhr5t I'm not much of a carpenter and while most of the tree, I think it was a Lime, will be going for firewood I'd like to make something nice to show. The only thought I've had so far is to polish a slice as a clock. I'd like suggestions, and tips, as to what to do with it. Whatever I did with it would I need to season it first to stop it from cracking over time? If so how? My late friend used to try turning bowls on his electric lathe but they always cracked. It doesn't look a useful wood. The discolouration looks like rot to me, it may be OK higher up. The leaves give a better clue as to what sort it is. There are many fungii that strike into the roots of trees, it's major forestry problem. This is probably why your tree fell down. All woods can be burned. Some takes longer to dry out than others that's all. Cut the trunk up into suitable lengths while it's green (cuts a lot easier). It will have to be split, some splits easier when green some easier when dry. Willow is grown now on an industrial scale for biofuel, & it burns OK but quickly. Once dry it's very light. I don't think your tree is willow as it's resistant to most of these fungii. |
#8
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What wood you do?
On Feb 5, 10:06 pm, Chade wrote:
A tree blew over and I've been chainsawing it up. I noticed it seems to have some attractive heartwood. I think it was a Lime, Hard to tell, but that doesn't look much like a lime internally, or at least it was a very rotten one (why did it fall over?) Lime is usually a very fine grained (invisibly so) pale cream or off- white wood. It's light and works beautifully, especially for hand tools. Lime isn't much use for most turning, but it's an excellent wood for carving. It's best (at a convenient level) bucked into logs a couple of feet long, quartered and then coated (ends at least) with a wax emulsion (Chestnut Endseal, from woodturning suppliers or Axminster). Wet or dry, these will then sell to carvers (eBay) and the money is much better than firewood! It sells fine wet, but (if you have covered space), it's a doddle to dry. If you have access to a big bandsaw and a thicknesser, then slab it, dry it, and surface it into 12" x 18" blocks for relief carving. These sell very well. I'm not going to hazard a guess at species from a fuzzy photo and no leaves, but that really doesn't look like a lime. The rings are too prominent, the bark too coarse and lime isn't noted for rotting like this. That "attractive heartwood" is rot, probably punky as anything to work with. Willow? Maybe. Willow is of little use to man nor beast. It won't turn, it won't burn. Willow poles (grown off a coppice or pollard) have their uses as sticks, and it's a good lightweight timber for building things around the garden out of thin branches with the bark left on, but willow logs just aren't much good for anything. It makes nice charcoal though. I've a fallen willow in our spare garden, and it's mostly going as firewood (dried over the summer). I have to light some coal beneath it to get it going, and then it's still just about the worst firewood you've ever seen. Because it can't be used for turning (tm) I naturally hhad to turn some of it. I made a set of thin platters in sizes from 6" to 15": trumpet-shaped, heavy centre, flat thin rims. As I'd turned them wet, I also allowed them to warp on the rims into a Pringle shape. It is turnable, but it's not rewarding stuff to work on and it is a right nuisance to get a decent finish on it. Hardly worth the trouble, unless you're keen. |
#9
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What wood you do?
On Feb 6, 9:28*am, andrew wrote:
Generally yes but look at DRAX much of the stuff provided by renewable growers is willow asrc. Not logs though. The point about biomass willow is that it's either coppiced (best) or whips. No-one is growing willow logs for fuel. |
#10
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What wood you do?
Andy Dingley wrote:
Not logs though. The point about biomass willow is that it's either coppiced (best) or whips. No-one is growing willow logs for fuel. Apart from asrc plus some trials with eucalyptus and short rotation softwoods I don't think anyone plants trees commercially for fuel in UK. You'll note from watching treework on roadsides that it's still cheaper to chip it to waste rather than haul it off, the economics of biomass demand large scale harvesting to keep the costs down to about 1/10 those of old fashioned ( my sort) forestry. Sawlogs and then industrial wood (chipboard but no longer pulp in this country) are the intended markest then forestry residues are sold as fuel but even so I'd guess the planned products subsidise the biomass fuel harvesting. There was a large estate near Reading that grew cricket bat willows, a premium crop on a short rotation, and they did use the logs for heating the main house. Generally willow is awkward because it's a b****r to chip. ASRC has problems in a small boiler too as the extra mineral ash from the large bark/bud percentage coupled with extraneous soil inclusions cause havoc from clinker in one installation I dealt with. One almost never plants willow or poplar as whips commercially, setts are used often in a hole dibbed in the ground and backfilled with sand. AJH |
#11
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What wood you do?
In message
, harry writes All woods can be burned. Some takes longer to dry out than others that's all. Cut the trunk up into suitable lengths while it's green (cuts a lot easier). It will have to be split, some splits easier when green some easier when dry. Going off on a bit of a tangent, my son is having to have 2 huge trees taken down this week, plus a lot of other gale-related remedial work, in the garden of the house he has recently bought. He can only afford the basic work and will have to arrange to cut and remove the wood. One tree is a very tall Scots Pine, we are told, and because of its position will probably come down in sections, so won't produce any long clear wood like the 25 foot lengths I had to buy when boat building. But is it worth thinking about getting any of this dried out and to a sawmill? The house came with a large shed (double garage sized) with a lean to open covered storage area beside it. It's dry but gets no sun because of the huge trees, and I've been saying that I think it would be good for slow drying of logs and other wood. I assume we want airflow rather than sun. We don't know what the other big tree is but hopefully we will be able to see a leaf or two when it's down. There is also a smaller 30foot-ish dead holly tree in the deal. He is talking about a wood burning stove, but the money and time is tight (eg the drains took us all of Friday and I'm still bodging him a trailer from what we bought on ebay), so is it likely that we could find someone to buy the wood for logs? I've dug out the small Bosch chainsaw (no box, instructions or accessories) that I bought off a remainder table about 10 years ago in some long defunct diy store and will buy it some oil later today and then see if it works. -- Bill |
#12
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What wood you do?
On Feb 6, 1:43*pm, Bill wrote:
is it worth thinking about getting any of this dried out and to a sawmill? Phone Wood-mizer in Pocklington, and they'll tell you local Wood-mizer operators near to the tree. Phone them and see if they're interested, either for buying it or else for coming and slabbing it for you (usually to 2" or 4", then shed dried). |
#13
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What wood you do?
One tree is a very tall Scots Pine, we are told, and because of its position will probably come down in sections, so won't produce any long clear wood like the 25 foot lengths I had to buy when boat building. But is it worth thinking about getting any of this dried out and to a sawmill? Unless you're very far up north, the timber quality will probably be poor. |
#14
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What wood you do?
On Feb 6, 1:37*pm, andrew wrote:
Andy Dingley wrote: Not logs though. The point about biomass willow is that it's either coppiced (best) or whips. No-one is growing willow logs for fuel. Apart from asrc plus some trials with eucalyptus and short rotation softwoods I don't think anyone plants trees commercially for fuel in UK. You'll note from watching treework on roadsides that it's still cheaper to chip it to waste rather than haul it off, the economics of biomass demand large scale harvesting to keep the costs down to about 1/10 those of old fashioned ( my sort) forestry. Sawlogs and then industrial wood (chipboard but no longer pulp in this country) are the intended markest then forestry residues are sold as fuel but even so I'd guess the planned products subsidise the biomass fuel harvesting. There was a large estate near Reading that grew cricket bat willows, a premium crop on a short rotation, and they did use the logs for heating the main house. Generally willow is awkward because it's a b****r to chip. ASRC has problems in a small boiler too as the *extra mineral ash from the large bark/bud percentage coupled with extraneous soil inclusions cause havoc from clinker in one installation I dealt with. One almost never plants willow or poplar as whips commercially, setts are used often in a hole dibbed in the ground and backfilled with sand. AJH There are hundreds of acres of willow growing in fields just down the road from our house. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Energy_forestry On wet ground it's the most commonly grown timber for this purpose. |
#15
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What wood you do?
On Feb 6, 1:43*pm, Bill wrote:
In message , harry writes All woods can be burned. Some takes longer to dry out than others that's all. Cut *the trunk up into suitable lengths while it's green (cuts a lot easier). It will have to be split, some splits easier when green some easier when dry. Going off on a bit of a tangent, my son is having to have 2 huge trees taken down this week, plus a lot of other gale-related remedial work, in the garden of the house he has recently bought. He can only afford the basic work and will have to arrange to cut and remove the wood. One tree is a very tall Scots Pine, we are told, and because of its position will probably come down in sections, so won't produce any long clear wood like the 25 foot lengths I had to buy when boat building. But is it worth thinking about getting any of this dried out and to a sawmill? The house came with a large shed (double garage sized) with a lean to open covered storage area beside it. It's dry but gets no sun because of the huge trees, and I've been saying that I think it would be good for slow drying of logs and other wood. I assume we want airflow rather than sun. We don't know what the other big tree is but hopefully we will be able to see a leaf or two when it's down. There is also a smaller 30foot-ish dead holly tree in the deal. He is talking about a wood burning stove, but the money and time is tight (eg the drains took us all of Friday and I'm still bodging him a trailer from what we bought on ebay), so is it likely that we could find someone to buy the wood for logs? I've dug out the small Bosch chainsaw (no box, instructions or accessories) that I bought off a remainder table about 10 years ago in some long defunct diy store and will buy it some oil later today and then see if it works. -- Bill Wild grown timber (esp. conifers) is not likely to be useful. They have to be grown in stands and the lower branches removed as the tree grows to prevent large knots. This makes long straight trunks. |
#16
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What wood you do?
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#17
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What wood you do?
On Feb 6, 1:43*pm, Bill wrote:
In message , harry writes All woods can be burned. Some takes longer to dry out than others that's all. Cut *the trunk up into suitable lengths while it's green (cuts a lot easier). It will have to be split, some splits easier when green some easier when dry. Going off on a bit of a tangent, my son is having to have 2 huge trees taken down this week, plus a lot of other gale-related remedial work, in the garden of the house he has recently bought. He can only afford the basic work and will have to arrange to cut and remove the wood. One tree is a very tall Scots Pine, we are told, and because of its position will probably come down in sections, so won't produce any long clear wood like the 25 foot lengths I had to buy when boat building. But is it worth thinking about getting any of this dried out and to a sawmill? The house came with a large shed (double garage sized) with a lean to open covered storage area beside it. It's dry but gets no sun because of the huge trees, and I've been saying that I think it would be good for slow drying of logs and other wood. I assume we want airflow rather than sun. We don't know what the other big tree is but hopefully we will be able to see a leaf or two when it's down. There is also a smaller 30foot-ish dead holly tree in the deal. He is talking about a wood burning stove, but the money and time is tight (eg the drains took us all of Friday and I'm still bodging him a trailer from what we bought on ebay), so is it likely that we could find someone to buy the wood for logs? I've dug out the small Bosch chainsaw (no box, instructions or accessories) that I bought off a remainder table about 10 years ago in some long defunct diy store and will buy it some oil later today and then see if it works. Dried holly timber is very pricey, even in small pieces. It needs to be debarked, split and put into drying very fast, no leaving it lying around for a couple of days. NT |
#18
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What wood you do?
Chade wrote:
Hello, A tree blew over and I've been chainsawing it up. I noticed it seems to have some attractive heartwood. http://tinyurl.com/4vnhr5t I'm not much of a carpenter and while most of the tree, I think it was a Lime, will be going for firewood I'd like to make something nice to show. The only thought I've had so far is to polish a slice as a clock. I'd like suggestions, and tips, as to what to do with it. Whatever I did with it would I need to season it first to stop it from cracking over time? If so how? My late friend used to try turning bowls on his electric lathe but they always cracked. You need to soak it on a specail wax that replaces the water so it never 'dries out' It is a nice figure and if its lime it turns really well and carves excellently. Same you cant turn it into planks. Limewood is quite valuable. Try a specialist wood turning suppliers for what to soak it in. |
#19
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What wood you do?
Peter Crosland wrote:
"Chade" wrote in message ... Hello, A tree blew over and I've been chainsawing it up. I noticed it seems to have some attractive heartwood. http://tinyurl.com/4vnhr5t I'm not much of a carpenter and while most of the tree, I think it was a Lime, will be going for firewood I'd like to make something nice to show. The only thought I've had so far is to polish a slice as a clock. I'd like suggestions, and tips, as to what to do with it. Whatever I did with it would I need to season it first to stop it from cracking over time? If so how? My late friend used to try turning bowls on his electric lathe but they always cracked. I agree that it looks like willow and it is in a pretty bad state. As a firewood it will spit and crackle and produce lots of smoke. It is full of moisture and even after seasoning will crack badly. The bottom line is forget it! Peter Crosland If it is willow dont even bother for firewood. It burns really badly. |
#20
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What wood you do?
Andy Dingley wrote:
On Feb 6, 9:28 am, andrew wrote: Generally yes but look at DRAX much of the stuff provided by renewable growers is willow asrc. Not logs though. The point about biomass willow is that it's either coppiced (best) or whips. No-one is growing willow logs for fuel. I have a tree of it in slices,. Gave up splitting em. Bitch of a job and they don't burn. |
#21
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What wood you do?
harry wrote:
On Feb 5, 10:06 pm, Chade wrote: Hello, A tree blew over and I've been chainsawing it up. I noticed it seems to have some attractive heartwood. http://tinyurl.com/4vnhr5t I'm not much of a carpenter and while most of the tree, I think it was a Lime, will be going for firewood I'd like to make something nice to show. The only thought I've had so far is to polish a slice as a clock. I'd like suggestions, and tips, as to what to do with it. Whatever I did with it would I need to season it first to stop it from cracking over time? If so how? My late friend used to try turning bowls on his electric lathe but they always cracked. It doesn't look a useful wood. The discolouration looks like rot to me, it may be OK higher up. The leaves give a better clue as to what sort it is. There are many fungii that strike into the roots of trees, it's major forestry problem. This is probably why your tree fell down. All woods can be burned. Some takes longer to dry out than others that's all. Cut the trunk up into suitable lengths while it's green (cuts a lot easier). It will have to be split, some splits easier when green some easier when dry. Willow is grown now on an industrial scale for biofuel, & it burns OK but quickly. Once dry it's very light. I don't think your tree is willow as it's resistant to most of these fungii. IME even after a year to dry out its reluctant to burn. |
#22
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What wood you do?
On Feb 7, 2:58*am, The Natural Philosopher
wrote: harry wrote: On Feb 5, 10:06 pm, Chade wrote: Hello, A tree blew over and I've been chainsawing it up. I noticed it seems to have some attractive heartwood. http://tinyurl.com/4vnhr5t I'm not much of a carpenter and while most of the tree, I think it was a Lime, will be going for firewood I'd like to make something nice to show. The only thought I've had so far is to polish a slice as a clock. I'd like suggestions, and tips, as to what to do with it. Whatever I did with it would I need to season it first to stop it from cracking over time? If so how? My late friend used to try turning bowls on his electric lathe but they always cracked. It doesn't look a useful wood. The discolouration looks like rot to me, it may be OK higher up. The leaves give a better clue as to what sort it is. *There are many fungii that strike into the roots of trees, it's major forestry problem. *This is probably why your tree fell down. All woods can be burned. Some takes longer to dry out than others that's all. Cut *the trunk up into suitable lengths while it's green (cuts a lot easier). It will have to be split, some splits easier when green some easier when dry. Willow is grown now on an industrial scale for biofuel, & it burns OK but quickly. *Once dry it's very light. I don't think your tree is willow as it's resistant to most of these fungii. IME even after a year to dry out its reluctant to burn.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - That is because it needs two years. Dense hardwoods are OK after one year. Oak, beech, ash etc. It drys a lot quicker if split at least once, the bark stops it from drying out (as it's designed to) |
#23
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What wood you do?
On Feb 7, 2:57*am, The Natural Philosopher
wrote: Andy Dingley wrote: On Feb 6, 9:28 am, andrew wrote: Generally yes but look at DRAX much of the stuff provided by renewable growers is willow asrc. Not logs though. The point about biomass willow is that it's either coppiced (best) or whips. No-one is growing willow logs for fuel. I have a tree of it in slices,. Gave up splitting em. Bitch of a job and they don't burn. You can buy both willow and poplar specifically bred for log growing/ coppicing, I have some on my ground. In five years its twenty feet high and six inches diameter. |
#24
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What wood you do?
In message
, Tabby writes Dried holly timber is very pricey, even in small pieces. It needs to be debarked, split and put into drying very fast, no leaving it lying around for a couple of days. I've got a few 10 month drying *halves* of Walnut trunk if anyone wants a go. I saved them for a friend but he cried off. Firewood otherwise! regards -- Tim Lamb |
#25
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What wood you do?
On 07/02/2011 02:56, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Chade wrote: Hello, A tree blew over and I've been chainsawing it up. I noticed it seems to have some attractive heartwood. http://tinyurl.com/4vnhr5t I'm not much of a carpenter and while most of the tree, I think it was a Lime, will be going for firewood I'd like to make something nice to show. The only thought I've had so far is to polish a slice as a clock. I'd like suggestions, and tips, as to what to do with it. Whatever I did with it would I need to season it first to stop it from cracking over time? If so how? My late friend used to try turning bowls on his electric lathe but they always cracked. You need to soak it on a specail wax that replaces the water so it never 'dries out' It is a nice figure and if its lime it turns really well and carves excellently. Same you cant turn it into planks. Limewood is quite valuable. Try a specialist wood turning suppliers for what to soak it in. Whatever they used on the Mary Rose |
#26
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What wood you do?
On Feb 7, 9:27*am, Tim Lamb wrote:
I've got a few 10 month drying *halves* of Walnut trunk if anyone wants a go. I saved them for a friend but he cried off. Firewood otherwise! Whereabouts are you? |
#27
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What wood you do?
On Feb 7, 8:34*am, harry wrote:
It drys a lot quicker if split at least once, the bark stops it from drying out (as it's designed to) Mine is 6" or smaller (rounds or split), but I leave the bark on and stack it as a holzhausen. I don't have a drying shed for firewood. |
#28
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What wood you do?
On Feb 7, 2:56*am, The Natural Philosopher
wrote: You need to soak it on a specail wax that replaces the water so it never 'dries out' High molecular weight polyethylene glycol PEG 1000 (no, baking grade doesn't work). You shouldn't need this for most work in UK timber. It's really just for exotics. Bowls are normally turned from halved logs, not as end- grain disks from across the log. So long as you avoid the pith and you dry them slowly, you can avoid cracking - they'll warp instead. I have most of a chestnut still to turn up, after it was felled a few months ago. I turn the untreated logs green to be thick-walled bowl blanks, coat them in wax emulsion (not PEG) and leave them to dry for a year or two. Then I finish turn them to shape. They'll warp in this time and a few will crack, but the walls were left thick enough that I should still get an unwarped bowl out from inside. It's also easier to store bowl blanks than to store a whole tree. |
#29
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What wood you do?
Andy Dingley wrote:
On Feb 7, 2:56 am, The Natural Philosopher wrote: You need to soak it on a specail wax that replaces the water so it never 'dries out' High molecular weight polyethylene glycol PEG 1000 (no, baking grade doesn't work). THANK YOU. That's the thing whose name I could NOT remember. You shouldn't need this for most work in UK timber. It's really just for exotics. Bowls are normally turned from halved logs, not as end- grain disks from across the log. So long as you avoid the pith and you dry them slowly, you can avoid cracking - they'll warp instead. I have most of a chestnut still to turn up, after it was felled a few months ago. I turn the untreated logs green to be thick-walled bowl blanks, coat them in wax emulsion (not PEG) and leave them to dry for a year or two. Then I finish turn them to shape. They'll warp in this time and a few will crack, but the walls were left thick enough that I should still get an unwarped bowl out from inside. It's also easier to store bowl blanks than to store a whole tree. Good technique. I'd love to do wood turning.. |
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What wood you do?
In message
, Andy Dingley writes On Feb 7, 9:27*am, Tim Lamb wrote: I've got a few 10 month drying *halves* of Walnut trunk if anyone wants a go. I saved them for a friend but he cried off. Firewood otherwise! Whereabouts are you? Halfway up and halfway left in Hertfordshi-) regards -- Tim Lamb |
#31
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What wood you do?
On Feb 7, 2:57*am, The Natural Philosopher
wrote: Andy Dingley wrote: On Feb 6, 9:28 am, andrew wrote: Generally yes but look at DRAX much of the stuff provided by renewable growers is willow asrc. Not logs though. The point about biomass willow is that it's either coppiced (best) or whips. No-one is growing willow logs for fuel. I have a tree of it in slices,. Gave up splitting em. Bitch of a job and they don't burn. I had some no good wood to burn once, and it wouldnt stay alight at all. Think it was elder. What worked was to create an outer perimeter of it around the edges of the grate, then build a fire with good wood in the centre. Gradually the elder all got burnt. NT |
#32
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What wood you do?
In message , stuart noble
writes On 07/02/2011 02:56, The Natural Philosopher wrote: Chade wrote: Hello, A tree blew over and I've been chainsawing it up. I noticed it seems to have some attractive heartwood. http://tinyurl.com/4vnhr5t I'm not much of a carpenter and while most of the tree, I think it was a Lime, will be going for firewood I'd like to make something nice to show. The only thought I've had so far is to polish a slice as a clock. I'd like suggestions, and tips, as to what to do with it. Whatever I did with it would I need to season it first to stop it from cracking over time? If so how? My late friend used to try turning bowls on his electric lathe but they always cracked. You need to soak it on a specail wax that replaces the water so it never 'dries out' It is a nice figure and if its lime it turns really well and carves excellently. Same you cant turn it into planks. Limewood is quite valuable. Try a specialist wood turning suppliers for what to soak it in. Whatever they used on the Mary Rose The english channel ? -- geoff |
#33
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What wood you do?
On Feb 7, 8:54*pm, Tabby wrote:
I had some no good wood to burn once, and it wouldnt stay alight at all. Think it was elder. The only UK wood that burns worse than willow, and it smells nasty too. What worked was to create an outer perimeter of it around the edges of the grate, then build a fire with good wood in the centre. Gradually the elder all got burnt. What you mean is that you built a wooden fireplace hearth out of elder, and it lasted for quite a while. |
#34
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What wood you do?
On Feb 5, 10:06 pm, Chade wrote:
Hello, A tree blew over and I've been chainsawing it up. I noticed it seems to have some attractive heartwood. Thanks everyone for your replies. I've decided not to try to turn it on a lathe, just cut and polish a slice for use as a clock. To that end I took a cut piece standing on it's end on the wet ground, with another bit sitting flat on top, and cut a thick slice off each end of the bottom piece then sealed the ends with a coat of PVA. Later I'll take a slice from the middle to polish as a clock. Any ideas how long it will take to dry? I've got some coppiced Ash pieces to take down. There about six inches thick. If I sealed the ends with PVA as soon as they were cut would they dry okay? I'd like to turn them but if I split them they would be pretty thin. There is also what is definitely a Lime tree that a friend wants me to fell, it's tall, straight and without branches until about half way up. Though this is thicker, a good eighteen inches. If I wanted to prepare it for carving would I still need to quarter it as well as a PVA coat for the ends? |
#35
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What wood you do?
On Feb 7, 10:18*pm, Chade wrote:
Thanks everyone for your replies. I've decided not to try to turn it on a lathe, just cut and polish a slice for use as a clock. By "slice", I'm guessing you mean a transverse disk. You have pretty much no chance of this drying without splitting (anything over 4" diameter). The reasons are slightly complicated to explain in detail, so if the usual pinheads could please go and read Bruce Hoadley before arguing, we'd all save some time. You might want to make some backup slices. Then when they've split, you can bandsaw them into radial segments and rejoin them to make a fair approximation of a disk. Any ideas how long it will take to dry? A year an inch of radial thickness for long timber. A summer for short stuff. I've got some coppiced Ash pieces to take down. There about six inches thick. If I sealed the ends with PVA as soon as they were cut would they dry okay? I'd like to turn them but if I split them they would be pretty thin. I use wax emulsion for sealing, but PVA is probably OK. Certainly if that's what you've got handy. Some people use emulsion paint. Ash logs are going to split at the ends, so you'll lose some length. However ash is so dry straight off the tree that it's fairly easy to dry otherwise and you might keep logs of this size intact. It's so well behaved that it's even one of the few timbers you can turn with the pith intact, just keep it buried in the middle and don't expose it. There is also what is definitely a Lime tree that a friend wants me to fell, it's tall, straight and without branches until about half way up. Though this is thicker, a good eighteen inches. If I wanted to prepare it for carving would I still need to quarter it as well as a PVA coat for the ends? Lime is much more stable. I've two foot diameter logs of it in the woodshed that are just rounds (about 10 years old now) and no splitting. Must uses do want to lose the pith though, so halving it is a good move. Make good use of it though, it's too good to waste. If you can't use it, sell it to carvers. |
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What wood you do?
On 08/02/2011 00:03, Andy Dingley wrote:
By "slice", I'm guessing you mean a transverse disk. You have pretty much no chance of this drying without splitting (anything over 4" diameter). The reasons are slightly complicated to explain in detail, so if the usual pinheads could please go and read Bruce Hoadley before arguing, we'd all save some time. Assuming I don't have Bruce Hoadley to hand, but don't see any reason to argue, is this because the thin stuff isn't strong enough? You say it's complicated in detail, but could you give an idiot's summary? (mostly I can see why it would split, but am vague as to why bigger stuff wouldn't). |
#37
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What wood you do?
On Feb 8, 5:14*am, Clive George wrote:
On 08/02/2011 00:03, Andy Dingley wrote: By "slice", I'm guessing you mean a transverse disk. You have pretty much no chance of this drying without splitting (anything over 4" diameter). The reasons are slightly complicated to explain in detail, so if the usual pinheads could please go and read Bruce Hoadley before arguing, we'd all save some time. Assuming I don't have Bruce Hoadley to hand, but don't see any reason to argue, is this because the thin stuff isn't strong enough? You say it's complicated in detail, but could you give an idiot's summary? (mostly I can see why it would split, but am vague as to why bigger stuff wouldn't).. The there is more moisture in the outer layers of trees than the inner so it shrinks more, basically. That causes cracks, esp. if the drying out process is rapid. If rapid, the inner bit doesn't get to dry out at all. Drying has to be a slow process to allow the inner to dry. The timber is cut into planks and stacked with battens between. The ends are often painted to stop drying beint too quick. This is air drying. Most timber takes a year for every inch thickness of the planks to dry out (or "season"). |
#38
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What wood you do?
In message
, harry writes On Feb 8, 5:14*am, Clive George wrote: On 08/02/2011 00:03, Andy Dingley wrote: By "slice", I'm guessing you mean a transverse disk. You have pretty much no chance of this drying without splitting (anything over 4" diameter). The reasons are slightly complicated to explain in detail, so if the usual pinheads could please go and read Bruce Hoadley before arguing, we'd all save some time. Assuming I don't have Bruce Hoadley to hand, but don't see any reason to argue, is this because the thin stuff isn't strong enough? You say it's complicated in detail, but could you give an idiot's summary? (mostly I can see why it would split, but am vague as to why bigger stuff wouldn't). The there is more moisture in the outer layers of trees than the inner so it shrinks more, basically. That causes cracks, esp. if the drying out process is rapid. If rapid, the inner bit doesn't get to dry out at all. Drying has to be a slow process to allow the inner to dry. The timber is cut into planks and stacked with battens between. The ends are often painted to stop drying beint too quick. This is air drying. Most timber takes a year for every inch thickness of the planks to dry out (or "season"). The recent gales caused a mature Oak, semi-sound, (around 3'6" trunk) to assume a horizontal position here. At some time in the next few weeks I will have to make decisions as to its fate. Previously I have engaged a mobile saw mill contractor to convert to 8"x4" and 4"x4" for construction jobs. This time I am considering 8"x1" for floor boarding. Due to the nature of in field milling, cuts of up to 8" horizontal or vertical can be made. Bearing in mind this is Oak. Is it worth attempting to maximise the production of boards with growth rings at less than 30deg. or not bother? Boards will be stacked for air drying. regards -- Tim Lamb |
#39
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What wood you do?
Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , harry writes On Feb 8, 5:14 am, Clive George wrote: On 08/02/2011 00:03, Andy Dingley wrote: By "slice", I'm guessing you mean a transverse disk. You have pretty much no chance of this drying without splitting (anything over 4" diameter). The reasons are slightly complicated to explain in detail, so if the usual pinheads could please go and read Bruce Hoadley before arguing, we'd all save some time. Assuming I don't have Bruce Hoadley to hand, but don't see any reason to argue, is this because the thin stuff isn't strong enough? You say it's complicated in detail, but could you give an idiot's summary? (mostly I can see why it would split, but am vague as to why bigger stuff wouldn't). The there is more moisture in the outer layers of trees than the inner so it shrinks more, basically. That causes cracks, esp. if the drying out process is rapid. If rapid, the inner bit doesn't get to dry out at all. Drying has to be a slow process to allow the inner to dry. The timber is cut into planks and stacked with battens between. The ends are often painted to stop drying beint too quick. This is air drying. Most timber takes a year for every inch thickness of the planks to dry out (or "season"). The recent gales caused a mature Oak, semi-sound, (around 3'6" trunk) to assume a horizontal position here. At some time in the next few weeks I will have to make decisions as to its fate. Previously I have engaged a mobile saw mill contractor to convert to 8"x4" and 4"x4" for construction jobs. This time I am considering 8"x1" for floor boarding. Due to the nature of in field milling, cuts of up to 8" horizontal or vertical can be made. Bearing in mind this is Oak. Is it worth attempting to maximise the production of boards with growth rings at less than 30deg. or not bother? Boards will be stacked for air drying. You get the best figure from the boards that warp the most. IF its for inside use, Id simply flat saw the lot, bin the pith, wait till the lot has warped and then plane to board sizes. And hope they don't warp again.. Use the center bits for structure, and the edge bits for show regards |
#40
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What wood you do?
On Feb 8, 5:14*am, Clive George wrote:
On 08/02/2011 00:03, Andy Dingley wrote: By "slice", I'm guessing you mean a transverse disk. You have pretty much no chance of this drying without splitting (anything over 4" diameter). The reasons are slightly complicated to explain in detail, so if the usual pinheads could please go and read Bruce Hoadley before arguing, we'd all save some time. Assuming I don't have Bruce Hoadley to hand, but don't see any reason to argue, is this because the thin stuff isn't strong enough? Sorry, but every time this comes up, the usual idiots start arguing about how they've dried a giant redwood in their shed and it didn't split. If you don't have Hoadley, buy it, as it's a damn good book. If you don't want to do that, the US Forest Products Handbook is on-line for free (and also available printed and bound for a reasonable price). OTOH, Hoadley is clearer to read. Timber drying highlights how much some species differ in some aspects, but also (surprisingly, to me anyway) how much other aspects are consistent between species. Moisture content (EMC) has a consistent relationship with air humidity (RH). Moisture content of a felled log varies a lot (why felled ash will burn, but others needs to be dried). Shrinkage with MC varies across species, but total shrinkage from "felled log" to "dry board" ends up consistent again. The breaking point of timber varies a lot measured as a stress (i.e. force) but is consistent as a strain (i.e. dimensional change). The ratio between tangential, radial and longitudinal shrinkage is consistent, even though the absolute values vary. Tangential, or hoop, shrinkage is twice the radial shrinkage (and lengthways is near zero). If they were the same, then wood would shrink isotropically, by the same in every direction. The total shrinkage is about 10% tangentially and 5% radially, for a wet log to a dry board, for any species. Considering the log as a set of "onion rings", you should realise that it's now increasingly difficult for the outer rings to stretch all the way to reach round the inner layers - and so they crack radially, from excess tension. Why does it crack? Well the shrinkage will hit 10%, which will generate some unknown tension in the rings. The tensile force is enough to break the timber. Now I know neither the force generated, nor the tensile strength (in force units) of the timber, but I do not that the maximum strain (as a dimension change ratio) for all timber is about 8% (AFAIR, can't remember the precise figure). So _whatever_ the species, wet to dry is enough to break a constrained piece of it. We can avoid this in a few ways.One is a radial cut, or halving the board. Note also that a log that develops a split early just develops the one major split. That split relieves much of the tension. Another way is to take the centre out of the log and to allow it to collapse as rings. Another way is to crush the central core of the log (by an imperceptible amount). If the central core is simply small, then it's crushed by the larger outer ring. The square law for cross-section area is such a small core surrounded by a ring an extra inch thick is far less cross-section than the ring, but for larger cores that extra inch of ring becomes a progressively smaller cross-section compared to the core. Small cores get crushed, large cores burst the ring. This varies by species, as it depends on the species-varying ratio of tensile strength vs. crush strength. When a species, like lime, is easy to dry without cracking, it's usually down to this ability to crush the core slightly. Elm, noted for its interlocking grain, has a much stronger tensile strength in a large piece than a small piece, so drying elm will tend to generate many microcracks, rather than a single big crack. It's not about varying moisture content radially. |
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