I mentioned yesterday that my 3A fuse kept blowing, knocking out my
central heating. After looking at it a bit more closely yesterday the
central heating clock stayed on for hours while the heating was
switched off. When I switched the heating on it worked for about an
hour before the fuse blows again. The radiators warmed up and I got
some hot water.

Is this a sign that everything is working mechanically but something
is overheating over that 1/2 hour - hour?

I'm starting to think the pump must be it so I guess I should get a
leccy around to check it out

On Wed, 29 Aug 2007 02:45:09 -0700 someone who may be
wrote this:-

I mentioned yesterday that my 3A fuse kept blowing, knocking out my
central heating. After looking at it a bit more closely yesterday the
central heating clock stayed on for hours while the heating was
switched off.

You didn't say what sort of time clock. If it is electronic then it
probably has a backup battery. Some mechanical clocks have a spring
backup, though these are/were not usually fitted in houses.

When I switched the heating on it worked for about an
hour before the fuse blows again. The radiators warmed up and I got
some hot water.

Is this a sign that everything is working mechanically but something
is overheating over that 1/2 hour - hour?

Probably not.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

In message .com,
writes
I mentioned yesterday that my 3A fuse kept blowing, knocking out my
central heating. After looking at it a bit more closely yesterday the
central heating clock stayed on for hours while the heating was
switched off. When I switched the heating on it worked for about an
hour before the fuse blows again. The radiators warmed up and I got
some hot water.

Is this a sign that everything is working mechanically but something
is overheating over that 1/2 hour - hour?

I'm starting to think the pump must be it so I guess I should get a
leccy around to check it out

Be aware that to work on a boiler FOR FINANCIAL GAIN, one must be CORGI
registered


--
geoff

On 29 Aug, 21:05, raden wrote:
In message .com,
writesI mentioned yesterday that my 3A fuse kept blowing, knocking out my
central heating. After looking at it a bit more closely yesterday the
central heating clock stayed on for hours while the heating was
switched off. When I switched the heating on it worked for about an
hour before the fuse blows again. The radiators warmed up and I got
some hot water.

Is this a sign that everything is working mechanically but something
is overheating over that 1/2 hour - hour?

I'm starting to think the pump must be it so I guess I should get a
leccy around to check it out

Be aware that to work on a boiler FOR FINANCIAL GAIN, one must be CORGI
registered

--
geoff

Think you should get information correct before posting.
Read: Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998
Regulation 2 (6) (c)

And how is checking out a pump (which could be in a different part of
the building from the boiler) got anything to do with being corgi
registered?

In message .com, Chas
writes
On 29 Aug, 21:05, raden wrote:
In message .com,
writesI mentioned yesterday that my 3A fuse
kept blowing, knocking out my
central heating. After looking at it a bit more closely yesterday the
central heating clock stayed on for hours while the heating was
switched off. When I switched the heating on it worked for about an
hour before the fuse blows again. The radiators warmed up and I got
some hot water.

Is this a sign that everything is working mechanically but something
is overheating over that 1/2 hour - hour?

I'm starting to think the pump must be it so I guess I should get a
leccy around to check it out

Be aware that to work on a boiler FOR FINANCIAL GAIN, one must be CORGI
registered

--
geoff

Think you should get information correct before posting.
Read: Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998
Regulation 2 (6) (c)

Err ...

I was presenting the point in an "in your face" simple manner after he
said about getting a sparky in - I thought it worth pointing out in the
context of his post

Would you like to point out exactly what was wrong in principle with my
reply ?


And how is checking out a pump (which could be in a different part of
the building from the boiler) got anything to do with being corgi
registered?

**** knows you tosser, where did I say it did ?


--
geoff

Chas wrote:

On 29 Aug, 21:05, raden wrote:

Be aware that to work on a boiler FOR FINANCIAL GAIN, one must be CORGI
registered

Think you should get information correct before posting.
Read: Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations 1998
Regulation 2 (6) (c)

Ah, new to the groups I see... LOL!

And how is checking out a pump (which could be in a different part of
the building from the boiler) got anything to do with being corgi
registered?

Don't know, who mentioned pumps?


--
Cheers,

John.

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Problem solved. I Replaced the old Commodore pump with a wilo 130mm
15-60 pump and I'm no longer blowing fuses. The old pump (which did
feel to be turning btw) must have had some problems with it which
caused it to pull too much power.

thanks for the advice on this and my first post guys

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
wrote:

Problem solved. I Replaced the old Commodore pump with a wilo 130mm
15-60 pump and I'm no longer blowing fuses. The old pump (which did
feel to be turning btw) must have had some problems with it which
caused it to pull too much power.

thanks for the advice on this and my first post guys


Good - glad you fixed it. As I said, it had to be one of the prime suspects.
A 15-60 (as opposed to a 15-50) sounds about right as a replacement for a
Commodore.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

On 3 Sep, 13:18, "Roger Mills" wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,

wrote:
Problem solved. I Replaced the old Commodore pump with a wilo 130mm
15-60 pump and I'm no longer blowing fuses. The old pump (which did
feel to be turning btw) must have had some problems with it which
caused it to pull too much power.

thanks for the advice on this and my first post guys

Good - glad you fixed it. As I said, it had to be one of the prime suspects.
A 15-60 (as opposed to a 15-50) sounds about right as a replacement for a
Commodore.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

yeah, the commodore didn't have any visible ratings on it in terms of
head, so for the sake of a fiver I thought it best to get the higher
rated one (even if it did drop it from an energy B to a C rating!
better that than have another pump go screwy)

thanks again