I am working on a spray nozzle design, and I would like to be able to
view the spray pattern in stop motion. This is not a get rich sort of
deal, more of an experiment so the funds for anything exotic is not
going to happen. To this point I have been using the macro setting on
a 4 Megapixel digital camera with flash and it gets a pretty good
image. Since I have a few automotive tools around, I have also been
using a timing light driven by an ignition module tester. This works
very well to get a visual of the spray pattern and droplet size also,
but very clumbsy.

One thing that would help me is if I were to have 4 timing lights
flashing simutaniously from beneath the nozzle.

The circuit used now to drive the timing lights is overly complex, and
I would rather look to some sort of strobe light driver to flash 4
strobes.

Can anyone add some insight or positive feedback to this query?

$10 mini strobe light:
http://www.eliminatorlightingdirect....ctCode=E%2D105


wrote in message
...
I am working on a spray nozzle design, and I would like to be able to
view the spray pattern in stop motion. This is not a get rich sort of
deal, more of an experiment so the funds for anything exotic is not
going to happen. To this point I have been using the macro setting on
a 4 Megapixel digital camera with flash and it gets a pretty good
image. Since I have a few automotive tools around, I have also been
using a timing light driven by an ignition module tester. This works
very well to get a visual of the spray pattern and droplet size also,
but very clumbsy.

One thing that would help me is if I were to have 4 timing lights
flashing simutaniously from beneath the nozzle.

The circuit used now to drive the timing lights is overly complex, and
I would rather look to some sort of strobe light driver to flash 4
strobes.

Can anyone add some insight or positive feedback to this query?

On Thu, 20 Dec 2007 08:31:12 -0800 (PST), wrote:

I am working on a spray nozzle design, and I would like to be able to
view the spray pattern in stop motion. This is not a get rich sort of
deal, more of an experiment so the funds for anything exotic is not
going to happen. To this point I have been using the macro setting on
a 4 Megapixel digital camera with flash and it gets a pretty good
image. Since I have a few automotive tools around, I have also been
using a timing light driven by an ignition module tester. This works
very well to get a visual of the spray pattern and droplet size also,
but very clumbsy.

One thing that would help me is if I were to have 4 timing lights
flashing simutaniously from beneath the nozzle.

The circuit used now to drive the timing lights is overly complex, and
I would rather look to some sort of strobe light driver to flash 4
strobes.

Can anyone add some insight or positive feedback to this query?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Digital-Radio-Wi...170 179253222

You can get strobes free from a photofinisher. They'll have a box of
torn-apart disposable cameras for recycling. The flashes in those
aren't very powerful (120 uF, 300V, about 5 joules) but might be
perfect for close-range work as you describe.

wrote in message
...
I am working on a spray nozzle design, and I would like to be able to
view the spray pattern in stop motion. This is not a get rich sort of
deal, more of an experiment so the funds for anything exotic is not
going to happen. To this point I have been using the macro setting on
a 4 Megapixel digital camera with flash and it gets a pretty good
image. Since I have a few automotive tools around, I have also been
using a timing light driven by an ignition module tester. This works
very well to get a visual of the spray pattern and droplet size also,
but very clumbsy.

One thing that would help me is if I were to have 4 timing lights
flashing simutaniously from beneath the nozzle.

The circuit used now to drive the timing lights is overly complex, and
I would rather look to some sort of strobe light driver to flash 4
strobes.

Can anyone add some insight or positive feedback to this query?

Do you have an old electronic ("strobe") flash for a camera? If you do,
setting it for it's lowest power setting will also give you the shortest
flash. If it's a small flash unit, that will be very short and it may stop
action. Older flash units and smaller flash units give shorter flashes than
larger and newer ones.

--
Ed Huntress

wrote:
I am working on a spray nozzle design, and I would like to be able to
view the spray pattern in stop motion. This is not a get rich sort of
deal, more of an experiment so the funds for anything exotic is not
going to happen. To this point I have been using the macro setting on
a 4 Megapixel digital camera with flash and it gets a pretty good
image. Since I have a few automotive tools around, I have also been
using a timing light driven by an ignition module tester. This works
very well to get a visual of the spray pattern and droplet size also,
but very clumbsy.

One thing that would help me is if I were to have 4 timing lights
flashing simutaniously from beneath the nozzle.

The circuit used now to drive the timing lights is overly complex, and
I would rather look to some sort of strobe light driver to flash 4
strobes.

Can anyone add some insight or positive feedback to this query?

I found blue light the most dramatic for testing spray patterns.

Make sure the light does not shine at the camera, and if possible have a
dark background.

I was testing the spray pattern of a nozzle for a homemade burner, and
spraying oil/alcohol mixtures as well as water. White light just didn't
work as well, for whatever reason.

Cydrome Leader wrote:
wrote:
I am working on a spray nozzle design, and I would like to be able to
view the spray pattern in stop motion. This is not a get rich sort of
deal, more of an experiment so the funds for anything exotic is not
going to happen. To this point I have been using the macro setting on
a 4 Megapixel digital camera with flash and it gets a pretty good
image. Since I have a few automotive tools around, I have also been
using a timing light driven by an ignition module tester. This works
very well to get a visual of the spray pattern and droplet size also,
but very clumbsy.

One thing that would help me is if I were to have 4 timing lights
flashing simutaniously from beneath the nozzle.

The circuit used now to drive the timing lights is overly complex, and
I would rather look to some sort of strobe light driver to flash 4
strobes.

Can anyone add some insight or positive feedback to this query?

I found blue light the most dramatic for testing spray patterns.

Make sure the light does not shine at the camera, and if possible have a
dark background.

I was testing the spray pattern of a nozzle for a homemade burner, and
spraying oil/alcohol mixtures as well as water. White light just didn't
work as well, for whatever reason.

I have no facts or evidence that this would
help - but - I'd try a polarizing filter as
well.

Jim Stewart wrote:
Cydrome Leader wrote:
wrote:
I am working on a spray nozzle design, and I would like to be able to
view the spray pattern in stop motion. This is not a get rich sort of
deal, more of an experiment so the funds for anything exotic is not
going to happen. To this point I have been using the macro setting on
a 4 Megapixel digital camera with flash and it gets a pretty good
image. Since I have a few automotive tools around, I have also been
using a timing light driven by an ignition module tester. This works
very well to get a visual of the spray pattern and droplet size also,
but very clumbsy.

One thing that would help me is if I were to have 4 timing lights
flashing simutaniously from beneath the nozzle.

The circuit used now to drive the timing lights is overly complex, and
I would rather look to some sort of strobe light driver to flash 4
strobes.

Can anyone add some insight or positive feedback to this query?

I found blue light the most dramatic for testing spray patterns.

Make sure the light does not shine at the camera, and if possible have a
dark background.

I was testing the spray pattern of a nozzle for a homemade burner, and
spraying oil/alcohol mixtures as well as water. White light just didn't
work as well, for whatever reason.

I have no facts or evidence that this would
help - but - I'd try a polarizing filter as

It doesn't really make any sense, but there was a big difference in how
the pictures came out. It was with a plain canon digital camera, and a
maglite with a blue LED bulb replacement. That worked better than all
sorts of other lighting arrangements, including strobes, and the typical
100 and 200 watt bulbs in the aluminum reflector clamp on things.

I was using an impinger type nozzle from Bete, and except for lots of
dripping, it matched what the catalog claimed it would do.

They really aren't joking about don't use teflon tape. It will have pieces
tear off, and it will clogs things fast.

Our photog set up a nifty device at work many years ago, Probably not what you
need for this task, but worth mentioning. He mounted a 35mm camera on a plate
with a motor driven disk in front of the lens. The disk was about 6 inches in
diameter and had several radial slots about 1/8" wide. He could run the motor
at variable speeds. As an example, he set the camera for perhaps 1/2 second,
and spun the disc such that 10 slots passed the lens in that half second.

We were actually filming a bomb releasing from a aircraft model in a wind
tunnel. He tripped the shutter as a bomb was released, and each frame of the
film had the bomb photographed 10 discreet times to form a stop action
sequence.

--
Dennis

DT wrote:
Our photog set up a nifty device at work many years ago, Probably not what you
need for this task, but worth mentioning. He mounted a 35mm camera on a plate
with a motor driven disk in front of the lens. The disk was about 6 inches in
diameter and had several radial slots about 1/8" wide. He could run the motor
at variable speeds. As an example, he set the camera for perhaps 1/2 second,
and spun the disc such that 10 slots passed the lens in that half second.

We were actually filming a bomb releasing from a aircraft model in a wind
tunnel. He tripped the shutter as a bomb was released, and each frame of the
film had the bomb photographed 10 discreet times to form a stop action
sequence.

that sounds like these monsters:

http://www.cordin.com/productsrm.html

"Ed Huntress" wrote


Do you have an old electronic ("strobe") flash for a camera? If you do,
setting it for it's lowest power setting will also give you the shortest
flash. If it's a small flash unit, that will be very short and it may stop
action. Older flash units and smaller flash units give shorter flashes
than larger and newer ones.

--
Ed Huntress


Can you please explain to me what the use of only one flash of a strobe
would be?

Steve

In article , says...

DT wrote:
Our photog set up a nifty device at work many years ago, Probably not what
you

need for this task, but worth mentioning. He mounted a 35mm camera on a
plate
with a motor driven disk in front of the lens. The disk was about 6 inches
in
diameter and had several radial slots about 1/8" wide. He could run the
motor
at variable speeds. As an example, he set the camera for perhaps 1/2 second,
and spun the disc such that 10 slots passed the lens in that half second.

We were actually filming a bomb releasing from a aircraft model in a wind
tunnel. He tripped the shutter as a bomb was released, and each frame of the
film had the bomb photographed 10 discreet times to form a stop action
sequence.

that sounds like these monsters:

http://www.cordin.com/productsrm.html


Nope, I'm familiar with rotating mirror high speed cameras, we also had them
for ultra high speed work. This was a fairly simple to make device. I can't
remember if it was shop-built, but it would be feasible to make it yourself.
And it had multiple images of the action on *each* frame, very nice.

--
Dennis

On 2007-12-21, DT wrote:
In article , says...

DT wrote:
Our photog set up a nifty device at work many years ago, Probably not what
you

need for this task, but worth mentioning. He mounted a 35mm camera on a
plate
with a motor driven disk in front of the lens. The disk was about 6 inches
in
diameter and had several radial slots about 1/8" wide. He could run the
motor
at variable speeds. As an example, he set the camera for perhaps 1/2 second,
and spun the disc such that 10 slots passed the lens in that half second.

[ ... ]

Nope, I'm familiar with rotating mirror high speed cameras, we also had them
for ultra high speed work. This was a fairly simple to make device. I can't
remember if it was shop-built, but it would be feasible to make it yourself.
And it had multiple images of the action on *each* frame, very nice.

I've seen devices with *two* rotating discs. The faster one had
multiple slots around its diameter. The slower one (geared to the
faster) had only one, so you got fewer exposures per second, but still
just as short.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Or a strobe tach
Ebay Item number: 260194170839
turn the knob and vary the flash rate.


On Thu, 20 Dec 2007 10:41:42 -0600, "David Courtney"
wrote:

$10 mini strobe light:
http://www.eliminatorlightingdirect....ctCode=E%2D105


wrote in message
...
I am working on a spray nozzle design, and I would like to be able to
view the spray pattern in stop motion. This is not a get rich sort of
deal, more of an experiment so the funds for anything exotic is not
going to happen. To this point I have been using the macro setting on
a 4 Megapixel digital camera with flash and it gets a pretty good
image. Since I have a few automotive tools around, I have also been
using a timing light driven by an ignition module tester. This works
very well to get a visual of the spray pattern and droplet size also,
but very clumbsy.

One thing that would help me is if I were to have 4 timing lights
flashing simutaniously from beneath the nozzle.

The circuit used now to drive the timing lights is overly complex, and
I would rather look to some sort of strobe light driver to flash 4
strobes.

Can anyone add some insight or positive feedback to this query?

Thank You,
Randy

Remove 333 from email address to reply.

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote


Do you have an old electronic ("strobe") flash for a camera? If you do,
setting it for it's lowest power setting will also give you the shortest
flash. If it's a small flash unit, that will be very short and it may
stop action. Older flash units and smaller flash units give shorter
flashes than larger and newer ones.

--
Ed Huntress


Can you please explain to me what the use of only one flash of a strobe
would be?

"Strobe" is the misnomer applied to electronic camera flashes, based on the
fact that they use a xenon flash tube like a strobe light. Many people know
them by that name. One flash is...one flash.

--
Ed Huntress

On 2007-12-21, Ed Huntress wrote:

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote


Do you have an old electronic ("strobe") flash for a camera? If you do,
setting it for it's lowest power setting will also give you the shortest
flash. If it's a small flash unit, that will be very short and it may
stop action. Older flash units and smaller flash units give shorter
flashes than larger and newer ones.

[ ... ]

Can you please explain to me what the use of only one flash of a strobe
would be?

"Strobe" is the misnomer applied to electronic camera flashes, based on the
fact that they use a xenon flash tube like a strobe light. Many people know
them by that name. One flash is...one flash.

Not all are so limited. The Nikon SB-800 can put out a string
of dimmer flashes ending with a somewhat brighter one just before the
shutter closes to give multiple images slightly underexposed ending with
one fully exposed.

But more interesting is my old General Radio Strobotac, which
can either be tuned to the speed of a rotating or cycling object (or
slightly slower or faster to allow you to view it in slow motion), or
can be triggered by the object (with an optional delay circuit to allow
viewing an event somewhat downstream in time from the triggering event.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

"DoN. Nichols" wrote in message
...
On 2007-12-21, Ed Huntress wrote:

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

"Ed Huntress" wrote


Do you have an old electronic ("strobe") flash for a camera? If you do,
setting it for it's lowest power setting will also give you the
shortest
flash. If it's a small flash unit, that will be very short and it may
stop action. Older flash units and smaller flash units give shorter
flashes than larger and newer ones.

[ ... ]

Can you please explain to me what the use of only one flash of a strobe
would be?

"Strobe" is the misnomer applied to electronic camera flashes, based on
the
fact that they use a xenon flash tube like a strobe light. Many people
know
them by that name. One flash is...one flash.

Not all are so limited. The Nikon SB-800 can put out a string
of dimmer flashes ending with a somewhat brighter one just before the
shutter closes to give multiple images slightly underexposed ending with
one fully exposed.

But more interesting is my old General Radio Strobotac, which
can either be tuned to the speed of a rotating or cycling object (or
slightly slower or faster to allow you to view it in slow motion), or
can be triggered by the object (with an optional delay circuit to allow
viewing an event somewhat downstream in time from the triggering event.

Enjoy,
DoN.

On all of the old film cameras I owned in my life, there was a buildup time
between shots. There was no multiple flashes like today's that correct some
things caused by flash, like red eye. IIRC, all of mine were Braun, a
spendy item at the time.

Steve