[Postal68]

I am OK with basic wiring(installing new outlets , switches, running a line
for a new outlet or light)

I am just not 100% sure about GFI outlets.

If I want to replace an existing outlet with a GFI outlet is it as easy as
buying a GFI outlet and switching them out?


If not what has to be done?
Should I get a licensed electrician to do these GFI outlets?

Thanks

Charlie

[Jeff Wisnia]

Postal68 wrote:
I am OK with basic wiring(installing new outlets , switches, running a line
for a new outlet or light)

I am just not 100% sure about GFI outlets.

If I want to replace an existing outlet with a GFI outlet is it as easy as
buying a GFI outlet and switching them out?


If not what has to be done?
Should I get a licensed electrician to do these GFI outlets?

Thanks

Charlie




Assuming the existing outlets are wired correctly, it's just a matter of
swapping the GFI outlet for a conventional one.

If there is more than one outlet "chained" on the circuit, you're best
off putting the GFI one in the location closest to the panel, where it
will provided GFI protection at the ones down the line.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.98*10^14 fathoms per fortnight.

[Eric9822]

On Apr 14, 4:48 pm, "Postal68" wrote:
I am OK with basic wiring(installing new outlets , switches, running a line
for a new outlet or light)

I am just not 100% sure about GFI outlets.

If I want to replace an existing outlet with a GFI outlet is it as easy as
buying a GFI outlet and switching them out?

If not what has to be done?
Should I get a licensed electrician to do these GFI outlets?

Thanks

Charlie

GFCI's are fairly simple to install assuming you know how to wire
standard receptacles. The watchout is that the supply wiring needs to
be installed on the "Line" terminals and the wiring to the downstream
outlets need to landed on the "Load" terminals. If they are crossed,
and a ground fault occurs in a device plugged into the GFCI, the power
will not be interrupted. Recently GFCI's have been required to deny
power to an outlet if it is miswired but I am sure there are some
older ones still floating around for sale. The really important part
is testing GFCI's after installation, most people don't.

[RBM]

It's so easy, even I can do it. GFCI protection is only required at certain
locations, like bathroom, garages, outside, and a few others. Some things
you wouldn't want GFCI protected like outlets for freezers, or
refrigerators. Assuming you only want GFCI protection at the location of
this outlet replacement, remove the existing outlet, note brass screws on
one side of the outlet and silver screws on the other. The brass screws
should have the hot wires on them and the silver should have the white. If
there are only two wires plus ground on the receptacle, install the white on
the
silver" line" terminal, and the black on the brass "line" terminal and
ground on the green ground terminal. If there is more than one wire on
either side of the existing receptacle, splice them together with a pigtail
wires to the GFCI outlet





"Postal68" wrote in message
...
I am OK with basic wiring(installing new outlets , switches, running a line
for a new outlet or light)

I am just not 100% sure about GFI outlets.

If I want to replace an existing outlet with a GFI outlet is it as easy as
buying a GFI outlet and switching them out?


If not what has to be done?
Should I get a licensed electrician to do these GFI outlets?

Thanks

Charlie

[Thomas Horne]

Jeff Wisnia wrote:
Postal68 wrote:
I am OK with basic wiring(installing new outlets , switches, running a
line for a new outlet or light)

I am just not 100% sure about GFI outlets.

If I want to replace an existing outlet with a GFI outlet is it as
easy as buying a GFI outlet and switching them out?


If not what has to be done?
Should I get a licensed electrician to do these GFI outlets?

Thanks

Charlie




Assuming the existing outlets are wired correctly, it's just a matter of
swapping the GFI outlet for a conventional one.

If there is more than one outlet "chained" on the circuit, you're best
off putting the GFI one in the location closest to the panel, where it
will provided GFI protection at the ones down the line.

Jeff


Jeff
I have run several service calls that were caused by tripped GFCI
receptacles. I recommend that GFCIs not be used to protect outlets that
are not in the same room as the GFCI that is protecting them unless it
is located at the panel.
--
Tom Horne

[mm]

On Sat, 14 Apr 2007 22:49:31 -0400, "RBM" rbm2(remove
wrote:

It's so easy, even I can do it. GFCI protection is only required at certain
locations, like bathroom, garages, outside, and a few others. Some things

What do they say about the outlet for a washing machine in the
basement.

you wouldn't want GFCI protected like outlets for freezers, or
refrigerators. Assuming you only want GFCI protection at the location of
this outlet replacement, remove the existing outlet, note brass screws on
one side of the outlet and silver screws on the other. The brass screws
should have the hot wires on them and the silver should have the white. If
there are only two wires plus ground on the receptacle, install the white on
the
silver" line" terminal, and the black on the brass "line" terminal and
ground on the green ground terminal. If there is more than one wire on
either side of the existing receptacle, splice them together with a pigtail
wires to the GFCI outlet





"Postal68" wrote in message
...
I am OK with basic wiring(installing new outlets , switches, running a line
for a new outlet or light)

I am just not 100% sure about GFI outlets.

If I want to replace an existing outlet with a GFI outlet is it as easy as
buying a GFI outlet and switching them out?


If not what has to be done?
Should I get a licensed electrician to do these GFI outlets?

Thanks

Charlie

[RBM]

In unfinished parts of basements or garages, readily accessible outlets are
required to be GFCI protected. Outlets on ceilings or outlets installed
behind and dedicated for specific, not easily moved appliances, like
washers, dryers, refrigerators, etc. do not need GFCI protection





"mm" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 14 Apr 2007 22:49:31 -0400, "RBM" rbm2(remove
wrote:

It's so easy, even I can do it. GFCI protection is only required at
certain
locations, like bathroom, garages, outside, and a few others. Some things

What do they say about the outlet for a washing machine in the
basement.

you wouldn't want GFCI protected like outlets for freezers, or
refrigerators. Assuming you only want GFCI protection at the location of
this outlet replacement, remove the existing outlet, note brass screws on
one side of the outlet and silver screws on the other. The brass screws
should have the hot wires on them and the silver should have the white. If
there are only two wires plus ground on the receptacle, install the white
on
the
silver" line" terminal, and the black on the brass "line" terminal and
ground on the green ground terminal. If there is more than one wire on
either side of the existing receptacle, splice them together with a
pigtail
wires to the GFCI outlet





"Postal68" wrote in message
...
I am OK with basic wiring(installing new outlets , switches, running a
line
for a new outlet or light)

I am just not 100% sure about GFI outlets.

If I want to replace an existing outlet with a GFI outlet is it as easy
as
buying a GFI outlet and switching them out?


If not what has to be done?
Should I get a licensed electrician to do these GFI outlets?

Thanks

Charlie

[John Gilmer]

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
In unfinished parts of basements or garages, readily accessible outlets
are
required to be GFCI protected. Outlets on ceilings or outlets installed
behind and dedicated for specific, not easily moved appliances, like
washers, dryers, refrigerators, etc. do not need GFCI protection

Quite true.

However, there is little harm in putting in a GFCI outlet.

Motors just don't cause false trips.

Sometimes, refrigerators will "false trip" during defrost when water runs
over heater wiring. Likewise, sometimes washing machines (and dishwahers)
false trip when leaks cause water to run over terminals.

BUT it that really a "false trip?"

It's almost routine to see a outlet that's only supposed to be for one
appliance be "duplex." What that means is that "someone" might plug in
something else.

IOW: you can make a good case for "protecting" these outlets.

[Postal68]

"Jeff Wisnia" wrote in message
. ..

If there is more than one outlet "chained" on the circuit, you're best
off putting the GFI one in the location closest to the panel, where it
will provided GFI protection at the ones down the line.

Jeff



Thanks Jeff,
I was aware of this, when I learned of it, I found it quite interesting.

[Mark Lloyd]

On Sat, 14 Apr 2007 21:36:17 -0400, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:

Postal68 wrote:
I am OK with basic wiring(installing new outlets , switches, running a line
for a new outlet or light)

I am just not 100% sure about GFI outlets.

If I want to replace an existing outlet with a GFI outlet is it as easy as
buying a GFI outlet and switching them out?


If not what has to be done?
Should I get a licensed electrician to do these GFI outlets?

Thanks

Charlie




Assuming the existing outlets are wired correctly, it's just a matter of
swapping the GFI outlet for a conventional one.

If there is more than one outlet "chained" on the circuit, you're best
off putting the GFI one in the location closest to the panel, where it
will provided GFI protection at the ones down the line.

Jeff

Also, a GFCI cannot be wired so each receptacle is wired differently
(such as one half switched).
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"All your western theologies, the whole mythology of them,
are based on the concept of God as a senile delinquent."
-- Tennessee Williams

[mm]

On Sun, 15 Apr 2007 08:39:38 -0400, "RBM" rbm2(remove
wrote:

In unfinished parts of basements or garages, readily accessible outlets are
required to be GFCI protected.

Thanks. I don't think I meet that standard. I will check as soon as
I can.

What if half the basement is finished, meaning drywall, and the other
half isn't? Do I have to GFCI the outlets on the drywalled part?

Outlets on ceilings or outlets installed
behind and dedicated for specific, not easily moved appliances, like
washers, dryers, refrigerators, etc. do not need GFCI protection

It may be dedicated to my washer, but it's not behind, and it didnt
stop me from plugging a remote dialer into the other half. Later I
wanted to unplug the washer to plug in a wet-dry vac, to vacuum up the
water on the floor, that I was standing in. I only touched the cord
an inch behind the plug, to unplug the washer, but I think the maybe
wet dust conducted enough current to give me a small buzz and a scare.

W

[RBM]

The finished parts of the basement don't require GFCI protection. The non
GFCI protected outlet for the washer is supposed to be a single, and for the
washer only. The idea is that the more readily accessible outlets are GFCI
protected. Personally I would never be standing in water and plugging
something in to any kind of outlet regardless of its protection



"mm" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 15 Apr 2007 08:39:38 -0400, "RBM" rbm2(remove
wrote:

In unfinished parts of basements or garages, readily accessible outlets
are
required to be GFCI protected.

Thanks. I don't think I meet that standard. I will check as soon as
I can.

What if half the basement is finished, meaning drywall, and the other
half isn't? Do I have to GFCI the outlets on the drywalled part?

Outlets on ceilings or outlets installed
behind and dedicated for specific, not easily moved appliances, like
washers, dryers, refrigerators, etc. do not need GFCI protection

It may be dedicated to my washer, but it's not behind, and it didnt
stop me from plugging a remote dialer into the other half. Later I
wanted to unplug the washer to plug in a wet-dry vac, to vacuum up the
water on the floor, that I was standing in. I only touched the cord
an inch behind the plug, to unplug the washer, but I think the maybe
wet dust conducted enough current to give me a small buzz and a scare.

W

[mm]

On Sun, 15 Apr 2007 22:13:17 -0400, "RBM" rbm2(remove
wrote:

The finished parts of the basement don't require GFCI protection. The non
GFCI protected outlet for the washer is supposed to be a single, and for the
washer only. The idea is that the more readily accessible outlets are GFCI
protected. Personally I would never be standing in water and plugging
something in to any kind of outlet regardless of its protection

I won't be again.

There has actually been another flood, and I didn't touch anything
where the floor or it was wet.



"mm" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 15 Apr 2007 08:39:38 -0400, "RBM" rbm2(remove
wrote:

In unfinished parts of basements or garages, readily accessible outlets
are
required to be GFCI protected.

Thanks. I don't think I meet that standard. I will check as soon as
I can.

What if half the basement is finished, meaning drywall, and the other
half isn't? Do I have to GFCI the outlets on the drywalled part?

Outlets on ceilings or outlets installed
behind and dedicated for specific, not easily moved appliances, like
washers, dryers, refrigerators, etc. do not need GFCI protection

It may be dedicated to my washer, but it's not behind, and it didnt
stop me from plugging a remote dialer into the other half. Later I
wanted to unplug the washer to plug in a wet-dry vac, to vacuum up the
water on the floor, that I was standing in. I only touched the cord
an inch behind the plug, to unplug the washer, but I think the maybe
wet dust conducted enough current to give me a small buzz and a scare.

W

[Bud--]

RBM wrote:
The finished parts of the basement don't require GFCI protection. The non
GFCI protected outlet for the washer is supposed to be a single, and for the
washer only. The idea is that the more readily accessible outlets are GFCI
protected. Personally I would never be standing in water and plugging
something in to any kind of outlet regardless of its protection


New in 2005 - outlets within 6 feet of laundry, utility, wet bar sinks
are to be GFCI. There is no exception for receptacles not readily
accessible. The non-GFCI not-readily-accessible washer outlet also has
to be 6 feet from the sink.

--
bud--