I have, or had, plywood panel until I went too aggressive with the belt
sander. Looks pretty good except one small spot where the first ply was
completely removed.

So what would be the best sander for this? 1/4 sheet and 5" ROS? Which ones?

what kind of finish are you trying to remove? that might dictate to some
degree how aggressive you'll need to be, and whether you want to try
chemical strippers instead of just sanding.

As for sanders, using a belt sander on plywood is probably not a very good
idea in any circumstance. I've used a ROS many times, but you have to be
very careful and not tilt it or let it stay in one place too long,
especially if you use aggressive grits. In many cases, using a sanding
block and elbow grease is the best way to control what you're doing.

Mike

"Kim" wrote in message
...
I have, or had, plywood panel until I went too aggressive with the belt
sander. Looks pretty good except one small spot where the first ply was
completely removed.

So what would be the best sander for this? 1/4 sheet and 5" ROS? Which
ones?

"Kim" wrote in message
...
I have, or had, plywood panel until I went too aggressive with the belt
sander. Looks pretty good except one small spot where the first ply was
completely removed.

So what would be the best sander for this? 1/4 sheet and 5" ROS? Which
ones?

Porter Cable SpeedBloc 1/4 sheet sander, it will get close to the walls and
or in tight corners.

Its has a dark stain and then some clear finish. No idea of what the clear
finish is but its quite thick. Tried heat gun but too slow going. Don't mind
using elbow grease but very tired now after remove about 1,400 sf of popcorn
ceiling, skim coat, sand the whole thing and waiting to be painted before I
finish the kitchen cabinets.




"Mike in Mystic" wrote in message
om...
what kind of finish are you trying to remove? that might dictate to some
degree how aggressive you'll need to be, and whether you want to try
chemical strippers instead of just sanding.

As for sanders, using a belt sander on plywood is probably not a very good
idea in any circumstance. I've used a ROS many times, but you have to be
very careful and not tilt it or let it stay in one place too long,
especially if you use aggressive grits. In many cases, using a sanding
block and elbow grease is the best way to control what you're doing.

Mike

"Kim" wrote in message
...
I have, or had, plywood panel until I went too aggressive with the belt
sander. Looks pretty good except one small spot where the first ply was
completely removed.

So what would be the best sander for this? 1/4 sheet and 5" ROS? Which
ones?

Kim wrote:
Its has a dark stain and then some clear finish. No idea of what the
clear finish is but its quite thick. Tried heat gun but too slow
going. Don't mind using elbow grease but very tired now after remove
about 1,400 sf of popcorn ceiling, skim coat, sand the whole thing
and waiting to be painted before I finish the kitchen cabinets.


What are you going to use for the new finish? If paint, no need to do
other than sand smooth, no need to remove clear coat and stain.

If you have to remove the clear coat use a chemical stripper. If
lacquer (may well be) you can use lacquer thinner; otherwise, a paint
remover. You'll have to sand out the stain. And don't do it too
agressively, the face ply is thin.

Personally, I like the Porter Cable #505 above all others...the soft pad
helps get into low spots without digging more of a hole.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

What are you going to use for the new finish? If paint, no need to do
other than sand smooth, no need to remove clear coat and stain.


A much lighter stain or just leave it natural with a clear coat. Paint on
good wood is like ketchup on good steak ... but each to his/her own.

Kim wrote:
What are you going to use for the new finish? If paint, no need to
do other than sand smooth, no need to remove clear coat and stain.


A much lighter stain or just leave it natural with a clear coat.
Paint on good wood is like ketchup on good steak ... but each to
his/her own.

So is stain.

What are you going to do about the face ply through which you sanded?

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:VqDYd.626$hA3.240@trnddc09...
Kim wrote:
What are you going to use for the new finish? If paint, no need to
do other than sand smooth, no need to remove clear coat and stain.


A much lighter stain or just leave it natural with a clear coat.
Paint on good wood is like ketchup on good steak ... but each to
his/her own.

So is stain.

What are you going to do about the face ply through which you sanded?


Nothing says the OP has to sand through the face ply.
--

-Mike-

On Sat, 12 Mar 2005 15:21:42 -0500, "Mike Marlow"
vaguely proposed a theory
.......and in reply I say!:

remove ns from my header address to reply via email

The op said they already had......

Nothing says the OP has to sand through the face ply.

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:VqDYd.626$hA3.240@trnddc09...
Kim wrote:
What are you going to use for the new finish? If paint, no need to
do other than sand smooth, no need to remove clear coat and stain.


A much lighter stain or just leave it natural with a clear coat.
Paint on good wood is like ketchup on good steak ... but each to
his/her own.

So is stain.

What are you going to do about the face ply through which you sanded?

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico



Looks like paint is the way to go as the stain, upon closer look, was
already permeated into the face ply.

Kim wrote:
Looks like paint is the way to go as the stain, upon closer look, was
already permeated into the face ply.

Sure it is. That's why it shows...soaks into the wood a ways. Doesn't
mean it can't be sanded out, even on the skinny, modern veneers. Gotta
be careful though.

If you do paint, don't use latex!!!!!!!!!!!!!

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"dadiOH" wrote in news:VAYZd.6591$GI6.5676@trnddc05:

Kim wrote:
Looks like paint is the way to go as the stain, upon closer look, was
already permeated into the face ply.

Sure it is. That's why it shows...soaks into the wood a ways. Doesn't
mean it can't be sanded out, even on the skinny, modern veneers. Gotta
be careful though.

If you do paint, don't use latex!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Do use a GOOD primer. Zinnser BIN white Shellac-based sealer/primer works
really well, after you've cleaned those surfaces well. Open the windows,
because the stuff stinks for a couple of hours, and the solvent is alcohol.
But for what you're doing, I don't think there's a better home-center type
of product.

Patriarch