Has anyone used one of these blade hones for their jointer or planer that
lets you hone the edge of the knife without removing it from the machine?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...mNumber=G3631&

Do they work?

SteveP.

I've got the one pictured there. I find it's pretty much useless, but
YMMV. I resharpen my blades with a belt sander, followed by DMT diamond
stones.

Dave

Highland Pairos wrote:

Has anyone used one of these blade hones for their jointer or planer that
lets you hone the edge of the knife without removing it from the machine?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...mNumber=G3631&

Do they work?

SteveP.

"Highland Pairos" wrote in message
...
Has anyone used one of these blade hones for their jointer or planer that
lets you hone the edge of the knife without removing it from the machine?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...mNumber=G3631&

Do they work?

Seems to violate one of the principles of honing by making the scratches
parallel to the edge.

I'm wondering if they will smooth out small knicks. My new planer is
leaving strips of uncut wood in line with direction of feed, i.e.
perpendicular to the knives. I am assuming that there is a knick in a
knife. I inspected each one twice but could not see anything. I was hoping
that a few passes with one of those hones might fix it.

SteveP.

"George" george@least wrote in message
...

"Highland Pairos" wrote in message
...
Has anyone used one of these blade hones for their jointer or planer that
lets you hone the edge of the knife without removing it from the machine?

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...mNumber=G3631&

Do they work?

Seems to violate one of the principles of honing by making the scratches
parallel to the edge.

Highland Pairos wrote:

I'm wondering if they will smooth out small knicks. My new planer is
leaving strips of uncut wood in line with direction of feed, i.e.
perpendicular to the knives. I am assuming that there is a knick in a
knife. I inspected each one twice but could not see anything. I was hoping
that a few passes with one of those hones might fix it.
....

If it's a big enough knick to see it in the wood, a fingernail should be
able to feel it easily...if it's so small as to not be observable by eye
easily, probably can help...

Some shift knives slightly left/right to get the knick(s) out of line w/
each other, thus eliminating the ridge at least temporarily...

If use for rabbeting, this doesn't work well, however.

"Highland Pairos" wrote in message
...
I'm wondering if they will smooth out small knicks. My new planer is
leaving strips of uncut wood in line with direction of feed, i.e.
perpendicular to the knives. I am assuming that there is a knick in a
knife. I inspected each one twice but could not see anything. I was
hoping
that a few passes with one of those hones might fix it.

To take 'em out, you'll have to remove serious metal. These aren't designed
to do that. What Duane said is the answer most people use for knives
otherwise sharp. Unfortunately this usually means more than a few minutes
to reset the height of the shifted knives. Some of the lunchbox types are
supposed to be simpler.

You're going to scrape 'em anyway, aren't you?

I'm with George. Sharpening of tools has to be 90 degrees to the
cutting surface. Otherwise, you are just creating weak spots for the
material to knock the edge off.

No. I'll go ahead and pass on the hone. I will inspect once more, and run
through all of the setup checks that they call for, but I cannot see where
any of that would cause a strip of uncut material. Then I guess I will go
ahead and shift the knives.

SteveP.

"George" george@least wrote in message
...

"Highland Pairos" wrote in message
...
I'm wondering if they will smooth out small knicks. My new planer is
leaving strips of uncut wood in line with direction of feed, i.e.
perpendicular to the knives. I am assuming that there is a knick in a
knife. I inspected each one twice but could not see anything. I was
hoping
that a few passes with one of those hones might fix it.

To take 'em out, you'll have to remove serious metal. These aren't
designed
to do that. What Duane said is the answer most people use for knives
otherwise sharp. Unfortunately this usually means more than a few minutes
to reset the height of the shifted knives. Some of the lunchbox types are
supposed to be simpler.

You're going to scrape 'em anyway, aren't you?

Highland Pairos wrote:

No. I'll go ahead and pass on the hone. I will inspect once more, and run
through all of the setup checks that they call for, but I cannot see where
any of that would cause a strip of uncut material. Then I guess I will go
ahead and shift the knives.

Setup as in knife height, etc., isn't, as you say, going to make any
difference on a ridge being left on the surface. As I noted before, if
there's a ridge of sufficient size to see/feel, then there's a knick of
sufficient size to find.

There's a bit of debate on that one. Some books also show figure-8 in
sharpening some items. For coarser grits, though, I'd agree with you.

I've used those stones on the jointer for years. It does help to keep them
clean and just touch up the edge. However, as mentioned, they are not made to
remove knicks in the edge.

A sizeable knick requires grinding back the edge and restoring the bevel
before sharpening.
GerryG

On 22 Feb 2005 17:06:08 -0800, wrote:

I'm with George. Sharpening of tools has to be 90 degrees to the
cutting surface. Otherwise, you are just creating weak spots for the
material to knock the edge off.