Hei Keith,
Down here in Australia we use a white grinding wheel which is a finer
grit than the normal wheel and takes off less steel.
If you use a jig to get your angle right you don't take off a lot of
metal.
Cheers
Paul



On Fri, 14 Jan 2005 04:13:28 -0800, "Keith Young"
wrote:

Hi

Me again. I have a grinder but as somebody said to use it to hone tools is a
bit wasteful. Bought myself a Mill file to hone the tools. Most of my tools
are HSS. Did i buy the proper file. If not , what is the best file or
sharpening instrument to get to keep a sharp edge on these tools.

Yours most sincerely
Keith
in
Newfoundland




Unless otherwise stated all references to location refer to Western Australia

Keith
Get an aluminum oxide wheel for the grinder, preferably 80 grit although
finer will do with a jig, and make or buy a sharpening jig. See my site for
an idea. If you are going to try to file the tool, you are far better off
sharpening on the grinder. Turners sharpen on a grinder, generally speaking.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com

I just took a class from Alan Lacer. He sharpened tools on the grinder
with a white or blue wheel. He also had a diamond hone in his pocket.
Each time he picked up a tool he gave it a few swipes with the hone.
Made sense to me.

Walt C

Trying to sharpen chisels with a file would be my worst nightmare. Use
the grinder sparingly and hone with a diamond hone for touch up of the edge
between grindings.

Steven Raphael
Ithaca MI
http://www.geocities.com/steven_raph...turnings1.html
"Keith Young" wrote in message
...
Hi

Me again. I have a grinder but as somebody said to use it to hone tools is
a bit wasteful. Bought myself a Mill file to hone the tools. Most of my
tools are HSS. Did i buy the proper file. If not , what is the best file
or sharpening instrument to get to keep a sharp edge on these tools.

Yours most sincerely
Keith
in
Newfoundland

On Fri, 14 Jan 2005 04:13:28 -0800, "Keith Young"
wrote:

Hi

Me again. I have a grinder but as somebody said to use it to hone tools is a
bit wasteful. Bought myself a Mill file to hone the tools. Most of my tools
are HSS. Did i buy the proper file. If not , what is the best file or
sharpening instrument to get to keep a sharp edge on these tools.

Yours most sincerely
Keith
in
Newfoundland

We use the"rubber bonded grinding wheel" that came with the Shopsmith
over 20 years ago... (you can tell how much it got used before my wife
took over the sharpening)

One thing that I miss, going from turning on the SS to the Jet Mini,
is the rear shaft.... I'd just gotten into the habit of keeping the
wheel on it when I was turning, to touch up/ clean the tools... lol




mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Actually Keith, what you need is an aluminum oxide wheel with a friable
bond. Color does not matter and if you use jigs, just about any color will
do. I find the white wheels have too friable a bond for my taste. they grind
away too quickly and they are expensive. Using a jig will speed up your
sharpening and save wear and tear on the stone and the steel.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com

Trash the file Keith. You already had the best tool for the job. Just get
a good wheel for the grinder. That's either a pink or white wheel. 80 or
100 grit is good. Buy yourself a Wolverine jig and learn to use it. Use a
light touch and it won't be so wasteful of your tool steel.

You can't learn to turn well until you learn to sharpen well. You're
learning two (2) skills at once here.

If you must "hone" your tools, use a credit card size diamond stone.

Barry


"Keith Young" wrote in message
...
Hi

Me again. I have a grinder but as somebody said to use it to hone tools is
a
bit wasteful. Bought myself a Mill file to hone the tools. Most of my
tools
are HSS. Did i buy the proper file. If not , what is the best file or
sharpening instrument to get to keep a sharp edge on these tools.

Yours most sincerely
Keith
in
Newfoundland

Barry N. Turner wrote:
Trash the file Keith. You already had the best tool for the job. Just get
a good wheel for the grinder.

WADR, there are those of us who like to get things done quickly,
precisely, and with relatively little build-up of heat, resulting in
remarkable sharpness. For which a small belt-and-disc sander with a
wheel full of buffing compound replacing the disc has it all over
grinders, IMHO. Take a look at
http://www.bigtreetools.com/sharpeningmachine.html , and add Darrel
Feltmate's gouge jigs.

And do buy from Jon, if you can see your way clear. He did invent this
thing, and he's a good guy.

Owen Davies

Hi Keith

I do agree completely with Barry's answer to your sharpening question,
the buy of the Wolverine is where you could add "or build one".
You are familiar with Darrell's site ???

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Barry N. Turner wrote:
Trash the file Keith. You already had the best tool for the job. Just get
a good wheel for the grinder. That's either a pink or white wheel. 80 or
100 grit is good. Buy yourself a Wolverine jig and learn to use it. Use a
light touch and it won't be so wasteful of your tool steel.

You can't learn to turn well until you learn to sharpen well. You're
learning two (2) skills at once here.

If you must "hone" your tools, use a credit card size diamond stone.

Barry

Keith
The friable quality of an item is its ease of crumbling as in the desire for
a "friable soil" in agriculture. For a grinding stone it refers to the
matrix that holds the grinding material. The more friable the matrix, the
easier it is for the stone to wear away and leave fresh cutting material.
However, too great a friablility and the stone will groove too easily and
need dressing more frequently. Actually, most stones for the home shop are
friable enough for our uses. A nice aluminum oxide stone about 80 grit works
well for me.

--
God bless and safe turning
Darrell Feltmate
Truro, NS Canada
www.aroundthewoods.com

I went in search of the ultimate grinding wheel. Tormek is way too
soft. Diamond works on carbide, but not HSS. Other wheels only came in
grits up to 125 or 150. Then I found CBN wheels (carbon boron nitride)
described to me as "like diamond wheels, only for steel". These are
made to order in any grit you want, and available from abrasive or
grinding supply places. I got an 80 grit wheel for my scrapers, and a
320 grit wheel for my gouges. The wheel is 3/16 inch of bonded material
on an aluminum wheel. An 8 x 1 inch wheel costs about $300. After over
a years use I am very happy with the wheels. They have more than paid
for themselves. The 320 grit does give a much finer edge which leaves a
smoother surface on my turnings. During the time I have had them, I
would have gone through 2 of more of the other wheels, and my gouges
would have been worn down to nubs. I just took my 320 grit wheel down
and had it dressed because it had developed a bit of runout. I still
have about 1/2 of the bond left on the wheel. They don't generate any
more heat than the other wheels. When the surface needs to be cleaned,
you use an aluminum oxide stick. Diamond dressing tools won't work
because the wheel eats diamonds. With a fine grit wheel, you have to
use a jig to exactly reproduce the grinding angles. They are not for
everyone because of the price, but in the long run, they are worth it
robo hippy



















Leo Van Der Loo wrote:
Hi Keith

I do agree completely with Barry's answer to your sharpening
question,
the buy of the Wolverine is where you could add "or build one".
You are familiar with Darrell's site ???

Have fun and take care
Leo Van Der Loo

Barry N. Turner wrote:
Trash the file Keith. You already had the best tool for the job.
Just get
a good wheel for the grinder. That's either a pink or white wheel.
80 or
100 grit is good. Buy yourself a Wolverine jig and learn to use
it. Use a
light touch and it won't be so wasteful of your tool steel.

You can't learn to turn well until you learn to sharpen well.
You're
learning two (2) skills at once here.

If you must "hone" your tools, use a credit card size diamond
stone.

Barry

In article ,
"Keith Young" wrote:

Hi

Me again. I have a grinder but as somebody said to use it to hone tools is a
bit wasteful. Bought myself a Mill file to hone the tools. Most of my tools
are HSS. Did i buy the proper file. If not , what is the best file or
sharpening instrument to get to keep a sharp edge on these tools.

Yours most sincerely
Keith
in
Newfoundland

I reccomend use sandpaper for honing now, 500 grit, or 800(depending on
whats sittting around) fold it up until its about the size of your
wallet, put your thumb on one side, and two fingers on the other, push
down to make it slightly concave(lets you get more of the tool surface
at once), and the hone away.
I have diamond hones, but they are flat, which seems to be slower, and
they keep disapeering in the shavings.
every time I stop a piece to start sanding, I run the sand paper over
the tool a few times, so far I'm grinding once or twice a day(and I am
doing 8 hours of turning, on laminated blanks of cocobolo, teak and
other nasty woods.)
the place diamonds excel IMO is for skew chisels, every time I pick it
up I do a few strokes on each side before starting.
(this also cleans any glue or sap residue off, which is a good effect.

--

Maybe I'm just a pessimist and am totally wrong; I could live quite
happily with that.
-SATAN
Sane people are just lunatics in denial.
_Delta Nine

Keith, I'm sure you realize that with so many different methods and
devices there isn't a one right way, no matter how forceful the advice.
You can't buy and use them all, but remember that grinding, sharpening
and honing a turning tool are not always the same thing.

I can't help you decide which advice to follow, but I do suggest that
you review the rcw archives and the internet re methods and equipment.
Several ways will do the job, but decide on one way and learn to do that
one well.


Turn to Safety, Arch
Fortiter



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