I'm just curious. What is the process you go through when you change your
14" bandsaw blade (Delta, Jet, Grizzly, etc) ? And especially when you go
from one type/size to another. Also how long does it take you to make the
changes needed?
Thanks, Grant

"Grant" wrote in message news:0JzOd.57205$0u.29604@fed1read04...
I'm just curious. What is the process you go through when you change your
14" bandsaw blade (Delta, Jet, Grizzly, etc) ? And especially when you go
from one type/size to another. Also how long does it take you to make the
changes needed?
Thanks, Grant

My first blade change took about 30 minutes, second one about 15, now they
are less than 10 minutes. The instruction book will have the steps in it.

(order not very particular)
Loosen guides
Loosen tension
Remove blade cover
Remove the tapered pin
Take blade out and fold it (I have a video from FWW if you need it)

Replace blade
Follow the reverse of above. now you have to adjust the guides carefully
for the particular blade. Check tracking, tension.

After setting up my brand new saw, I was hoping I've never have to change
the blade because it was so time consuming and exacting, but, just like sex,
once you do it it gets easier and faster.
--
Ed
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome/

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

just like sex, once you do it it gets easier and faster.

Faster??

Thanks Ed, I was just curious as to what others thought about the time it
takes to change blades. I don't do it often, only twice so far, but it
seems to take a fair amount of time and tweaking compared to most other wood
tools.

I was hoping for some insight that might make me faster at it.

On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 18:32:28 -0800, "Grant" wrote:

I'm just curious. What is the process you go through when you change your
14" bandsaw blade (Delta, Jet, Grizzly, etc) ? And especially when you go
from one type/size to another. Also how long does it take you to make the
changes needed?
Thanks, Grant



First time, about 15 minutes. Now, less than 5 minutes. Unplug the
saw. The guides, blocks, tracking, tension, co planer wheels, tires,
table angle are all carefully checked. A scrap piece is sawn. Taking
the time to do all the checks should improve the cut and your safety.

"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
news:lgAOd.14709$uc.7945@trnddc05...
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

just like sex, once you do it it gets easier and faster.

Faster??

If you take too long think of all the time in the shop you miss. I'm right,
aren't I? ')

Grant wrote:
I'm just curious. What is the process you go through when you change your
14" bandsaw blade (Delta, Jet, Grizzly, etc) ? And especially when you go
from one type/size to another. Also how long does it take you to make the
changes needed?
Thanks, Grant


On my Delta 14":

1.) Remove power

2.) Back off the guides

3.) Pull the table pin

4.) Drop the tension

5.) Open the doors and change the blade, rotating by hand to check
tracking after adding a touch of tension.

6.) Add tension until blade sings proper pitch

7.) Adjust the guides

8.) Replace the table pin

9.) Verify my 90 degree table stop

10.) Fire 'er up

11.) Make a quickie test cut and fine tune tension, etc...


I can usually do this in under 5 minutes, often along the lines of 3.
It probably took longer to write it. I use Cool Blocks running right
against the blade, so guide adjustment is a snap. After a few run
throughs, adjusting the rear guide becomes an eyeball affair.

Once my wheels were made coplanar, and the first heavy duty tune-up was
completed, blade changes are a snap.

If only I can get the hang of folding blades. G

Barry

On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 03:10:09 GMT, the inscrutable "Mark Jerde"
spake:

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

just like sex, once you do it it gets easier and faster.

Faster??

If you have to be _told_, Mark, it's time you practiced more.
That'll refresh your memory.

--
STOP LIVING LIKE VEAL
-----------------------
http://diversify.com Veal-free Websites

Barry,

I use the Cool Blocks on my Delta 14" and was curious if you "file" the back
of the blade as some have recommended especially when using the Cool Blocks.
I don't put the blocks right up to the blade but rather set them about the
thickness of a piece of paper away from the blocks.

And if you can fold a blade without getting cut up, you are a better man for
it.

Thanks.
John


"B a r r y" wrote in message
. com...
Grant wrote:
I'm just curious. What is the process you go through when you change
your 14" bandsaw blade (Delta, Jet, Grizzly, etc) ? And especially when
you go from one type/size to another. Also how long does it take you to
make the changes needed?
Thanks, Grant


On my Delta 14":

1.) Remove power

2.) Back off the guides

3.) Pull the table pin

4.) Drop the tension

5.) Open the doors and change the blade, rotating by hand to check
tracking after adding a touch of tension.

6.) Add tension until blade sings proper pitch

7.) Adjust the guides

8.) Replace the table pin

9.) Verify my 90 degree table stop

10.) Fire 'er up

11.) Make a quickie test cut and fine tune tension, etc...


I can usually do this in under 5 minutes, often along the lines of 3. It
probably took longer to write it. I use Cool Blocks running right against
the blade, so guide adjustment is a snap. After a few run throughs,
adjusting the rear guide becomes an eyeball affair.

Once my wheels were made coplanar, and the first heavy duty tune-up was
completed, blade changes are a snap.

If only I can get the hang of folding blades. G

Barry

Now... that does my describe my sex life .. and that
includes the blade changing time....

Phisherman wrote:


First time, about 15 minutes. Now, less than 5 minutes. Unplug the
saw. The guides, blocks, tracking, tension, co planer wheels, tires,
table angle are all carefully checked. A scrap piece is sawn. Taking
the time to do all the checks should improve the cut and your safety.

And if you can fold a blade without getting cut up, you are a better man
for
it.
I can usually fold a blade OK. Loop it to the floor and step on it. Hold
the top of the loop, and twist as you go down. It will (usually) fold right
up. Unfolding a 3/4" 93" blade is another proposition.

Steve

On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 04:08:19 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:


"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
news:lgAOd.14709$uc.7945@trnddc05...
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:

just like sex, once you do it it gets easier and faster.

Faster??

If you take too long think of all the time in the shop you miss. I'm right,
aren't I? ')

no, thank god.. *lol*
We all have priorities, Ed, but when I put the shop before sex, shoot me..


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 10:14:34 -0500, "John M" wrote:

Barry... think gloves and long sleeves..

(I found a space on the wall behind the garage door hinges to hang pegs, so I
don't fold 'em)

Barry,

I use the Cool Blocks on my Delta 14" and was curious if you "file" the back
of the blade as some have recommended especially when using the Cool Blocks.
I don't put the blocks right up to the blade but rather set them about the
thickness of a piece of paper away from the blocks.

And if you can fold a blade without getting cut up, you are a better man for
it.

Thanks.
John


"B a r r y" wrote in message
.com...
Grant wrote:
I'm just curious. What is the process you go through when you change
your 14" bandsaw blade (Delta, Jet, Grizzly, etc) ? And especially when
you go from one type/size to another. Also how long does it take you to
make the changes needed?
Thanks, Grant


On my Delta 14":

1.) Remove power

2.) Back off the guides

3.) Pull the table pin

4.) Drop the tension

5.) Open the doors and change the blade, rotating by hand to check
tracking after adding a touch of tension.

6.) Add tension until blade sings proper pitch

7.) Adjust the guides

8.) Replace the table pin

9.) Verify my 90 degree table stop

10.) Fire 'er up

11.) Make a quickie test cut and fine tune tension, etc...


I can usually do this in under 5 minutes, often along the lines of 3. It
probably took longer to write it. I use Cool Blocks running right against
the blade, so guide adjustment is a snap. After a few run throughs,
adjusting the rear guide becomes an eyeball affair.

Once my wheels were made coplanar, and the first heavy duty tune-up was
completed, blade changes are a snap.

If only I can get the hang of folding blades. G

Barry




mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

John M wrote:
Barry,

I use the Cool Blocks on my Delta 14" and was curious if you "file" the back
of the blade as some have recommended especially when using the Cool Blocks.

I'm one of the "filers". G I use an old Arkansas stone or grinding wheel.

I don't put the blocks right up to the blade but rather set them about the
thickness of a piece of paper away from the blocks.

Why? Cool blocks are designed to be run close, the gap is typically
used with steel blocks.

Barry

mac davis wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 10:14:34 -0500, "John M" wrote:

Barry... think gloves and long sleeves..

I do. As I loop it, the teeth always seem to catch on each other.

Barry

Interesting. I will try that.

I ask as I just put them on last night so I pulled them out of the sealed
package and read the directions (believe it or not) and it stated
specifically to leave a gap. I was curious as I was under the impression
that you stated - run 'em close.

Thanks, I will change that tonight as I have to re-saw some mahogany to make
a valentine's gift.

--
John


"B a r r y" wrote in message
m...
John M wrote:
Barry,

I use the Cool Blocks on my Delta 14" and was curious if you "file" the
back of the blade as some have recommended especially when using the Cool
Blocks.

I'm one of the "filers". G I use an old Arkansas stone or grinding
wheel.

I don't put the blocks right up to the blade but rather set them about
the thickness of a piece of paper away from the blocks.

Why? Cool blocks are designed to be run close, the gap is typically used
with steel blocks.

Barry

On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 18:52:25 GMT, B a r r y
wrote:

mac davis wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 10:14:34 -0500, "John M" wrote:

Barry... think gloves and long sleeves..

I do. As I loop it, the teeth always seem to catch on each other.

Barry

ow.. that's a bad thing... skin grows back, saw teeth don't!


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Boy, I'm a slacker. I just turn off the band saw's motor (safer if a bit
slower) and fit the new blade on the wheels and rotate one wheel by hand
as the blade climbs fully on. I don't worry about taking off the tension,
I think I adjusted the tension about 6 years back. Tension adjustment is
some kinda black art that I never mastered, so I ignore it mostly. I do
check the blocks and bearings for adjustment, but they hardly ever need
it, though I replaced one bearing last year. I use about 6 blades per year
(always the same size) and each cuts a few thousand lineal feet of 5/4
hardwood, mostly red oak and cherry. I like 1/4 inch blades 4 tooth hook
style. Sometimes I remember to put a grindstone on the table and round the
back of the running blade a bit. I tried cool blocks and even made my own
of Lignum Vitae, but the ordinary stock steel blocks seem best and the
least hassle. My saw runs about an hour at a time and works pretty hard,
harder than me anyway. About the time the blade starts to dull it snaps
from metal fatigue. Five minutes later I'm back in business. Most of that
five minutes is in finding my supply or extra blades. I do keep a couple
of dull blades hanging on the wall for the times when that jerk in
purchasing forgets to order new ones. I'd fire him but then I'd lose my
toymaker, my janitor, my bookkeeper, shipping clerk, telecommunications
operator, web designer, etc. Being a one man band sure makes it hard to
pass the buck.

I use the band saw daily and more than any tool except my sanders.
Couldn't get by without it. Whoever Grizzly uses to make their blades (in
Missouri I think) does a good job. I have used them for about 5 years with
no problems. I used to use Olson but drifted away. No real complaints.

john the toymaker

4 decades and still making sawdust every weekday and a few nice toys
occasionally

Come see if you like, http://www.woodentoy.com