Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi,
I am making solid cherry (planed to 3/4") drawer fronts for my kitchen cabinets (25 drawers in all). The heights will be 5, 8, 10, and 13 inches. For most of them I have wide enough boards to use a single board; a few will be glue-ups. The cabs are face frame, with full overlay fronts, but no horizontal members other than the top and bottom rails. I had planned to leave 1/8" gap between the drawer fronts as they stack on top of each other. My questions: how concerned do I need to be about the wider boards cupping? What can I do to minimize the chance of that happenning. I read of someone who would plane the lumber almost to final thickness, let it sit ahile to do whatever movement it was going to do, then do the final planing (although wouldn't you also need to face joint it again before planing if it did cup?) How much seasonal variation in width can I expect? In other words, is 1/8" enough gap, or will the fronts expand across the grain and swell the gap shut? The house is in Greenville, SC. We use the AC in the summer, but there is always some fall and spring time when we dont need to heat or cool. Can I screw thru the box into the cherry fronts in all four corners, or will that cause problems if there is expansion. Thanks for any advice or suggestions... david |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
CD player drawer malfunction | Electronics Repair | |||
Drawer material preference | Woodworking | |||
lining up drawer supports in cabinet carcass | Woodworking | |||
Concrete slab advice | UK diy | |||
Kitchen cupboard door fittings | UK diy |