I am making a Mission Style Bedroom armoire. I'm getting close to the point
where I need to start thinking about the drawers. I am making the armoire
out of Red oak and am considering either making the drawer sides, back, and
bottom either out of Baltic Birch Plywood or Solid maple, except the bottom
which would be maple plywood. The drawers are 40" wide x 7" tall x 22"
deep. What would be your choice?

Another question is the drawer slide hardware. It would seem that
traditional furniture would be to use wood on wood drawer dovetails with
nylon slides on the outsides. This would allow the drawer sides to be flush
with the drawer front lending itself to either a dovetail joint or an
interlocking rabbet joint. I am also considering the Blum Tandem hidden
underneath drawer slides. They are super smooth and can hold 100 pounds.
Again, what would be your choice?

Thanks,

Roland

Poplar

If the guides are done right it is six of one and half a dozen of the other.
Which ever you feel right with.

--
Mike G.

Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Roland Hart" wrote in message
...
I am making a Mission Style Bedroom armoire. I'm getting close to the
point
where I need to start thinking about the drawers. I am making the armoire
out of Red oak and am considering either making the drawer sides, back,
and
bottom either out of Baltic Birch Plywood or Solid maple, except the
bottom
which would be maple plywood. The drawers are 40" wide x 7" tall x 22"
deep. What would be your choice?

Another question is the drawer slide hardware. It would seem that
traditional furniture would be to use wood on wood drawer dovetails with
nylon slides on the outsides. This would allow the drawer sides to be
flush
with the drawer front lending itself to either a dovetail joint or an
interlocking rabbet joint. I am also considering the Blum Tandem hidden
underneath drawer slides. They are super smooth and can hold 100 pounds.
Again, what would be your choice?

Thanks,

Roland

"Roland Hart" wrote in message

Another question is the drawer slide hardware. It would seem that
traditional furniture would be to use wood on wood drawer dovetails with
nylon slides on the outsides. This would allow the drawer sides to be
flush
with the drawer front lending itself to either a dovetail joint or an
interlocking rabbet joint. I am also considering the Blum Tandem hidden
underneath drawer slides. They are super smooth and can hold 100 pounds.
Again, what would be your choice?


There would, of course, be no nylon in a traditional mission piece. The
width of your drawers may also make it difficult to use the more traditional
methods and that would satisfy someone who is used to modern drawer slides.

The problem you are going to find with traditional methods, particular with
a drawer that is that much wider than it is deep, is that it is difficult to
close evenly without side to side movement, which has a tendency to cause
one side to bind when you have wood on wood contact. This is not
insurmountable, but does require some know how and extra care.

If authenticity is NOT what you're shooting for in your piece, I'd say go
for the modern drawer slides of your choice. You're going to find them more
friendly, all around, then wood on wood, particularly for the ladies of the
house.

That said, if you do want to stay with a more traditional approach, consider
routing a groove in the middle of both drawer sides and using hardwood
runners attached to the case for guides. Alternately, you could use a
dovetail runner on the bottom, which would be traditional for sure.

Have you thought about two 18 - 20" drawers, in lieu of one 40"? Make it
easier to stay "rational, and a 40" wide span on a drawer bottom is going to
pose some problems of its own with regard to sagging.

Just some thoughts ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/16/04

"Swingman" wrote in message
...
"Roland Hart" wrote in message

Another question is the drawer slide hardware. It would seem that
traditional furniture would be to use wood on wood drawer dovetails with
nylon slides on the outsides. This would allow the drawer sides to be
flush
with the drawer front lending itself to either a dovetail joint or an
interlocking rabbet joint. I am also considering the Blum Tandem hidden
underneath drawer slides. They are super smooth and can hold 100 pounds.
Again, what would be your choice?


There would, of course, be no nylon in a traditional mission piece. The
width of your drawers may also make it difficult to use the more
traditional
methods and that would satisfy someone who is used to modern drawer
slides.

The problem you are going to find with traditional methods, particular
with
a drawer that is that much wider than it is deep, is that it is difficult
to
close evenly without side to side movement, which has a tendency to cause
one side to bind when you have wood on wood contact. This is not
insurmountable, but does require some know how and extra care.


If I do use dovetails, I was considering using two per drawer to combat the
binding.



If authenticity is NOT what you're shooting for in your piece, I'd say go
for the modern drawer slides of your choice. You're going to find them
more
friendly, all around, then wood on wood, particularly for the ladies of
the
house.


I already broke from traditional already by using Red Oak instead of
quartersawn White Oak. I am leading towards the ball bearing, full
extension, blum slides.


That said, if you do want to stay with a more traditional approach,
consider
routing a groove in the middle of both drawer sides and using hardwood
runners attached to the case for guides. Alternately, you could use a
dovetail runner on the bottom, which would be traditional for sure.

Have you thought about two 18 - 20" drawers, in lieu of one 40"? Make it
easier to stay "rational, and a 40" wide span on a drawer bottom is going
to
pose some problems of its own with regard to sagging.

Yes, the thought of the 1/4" drawer bottom sagging has crossed my mind. If I
go with ball bearing drawer slides, the guides would be on the outsides. One
thought I had would be to but a couple of 1/2" thick hardwood strips dadoed
into the front drawer face and into the back drawer face.




Just some thoughts ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 1/16/04





Roland

Just about any wood will work for a drawer but if you have access to
reasonably priced maple that is what I would recommend. Makes a beautiful
strong drawer. Use dovetail joints for the front corners and make the
bottom removable. For large drawers I like to plane my material down to
5/8" or slightly less. (5/8" is the maximum for Blum Tandem slides) Some
maple tends to tear out when planned. To make maple drawers I start with my
planner then use drum sander to get to final thickness.

While not the traditional approach Blum Tandem slides are hidden, provide
full extension and like you said are super smooth with excellent closing
action. What do you have to pay for Blum Tandem slides? I found a supplier
on the internet that has the 21" slides for less than $20 per set which is
not that much more than side mounted slides. I bought 6 just a few weeks
back and got excellent service. Ordered them on a Friday they shipped the
following Monday and they Emailed me the UPS tracking number the next day.

I like to use 1/4" +- plywood covered with plastic laminate for drawer
bottoms.
Earl Creel

"Roland Hart" wrote in message
...
I am making a Mission Style Bedroom armoire. I'm getting close to the
point
where I need to start thinking about the drawers. I am making the armoire
out of Red oak and am considering either making the drawer sides, back,
and
bottom either out of Baltic Birch Plywood or Solid maple, except the
bottom
which would be maple plywood. The drawers are 40" wide x 7" tall x 22"
deep. What would be your choice?

Another question is the drawer slide hardware. It would seem that
traditional furniture would be to use wood on wood drawer dovetails with
nylon slides on the outsides. This would allow the drawer sides to be
flush
with the drawer front lending itself to either a dovetail joint or an
interlocking rabbet joint. I am also considering the Blum Tandem hidden
underneath drawer slides. They are super smooth and can hold 100 pounds.
Again, what would be your choice?

Thanks,

Roland

Would you care to share the name of this supplier?
dean s

"Earl Creel" wrote in message
news:YoYPb.4197$ce2.2626@okepread03...
What do you have to pay for Blum Tandem slides? I found a supplier
on the internet that has the 21" slides for less than $20 per set which is
not that much more than side mounted slides. I bought 6 just a few weeks
back and got excellent service. Ordered them on a Friday they shipped the
following Monday and they Emailed me the UPS tracking number the next
day.

Earl Creel

I found some for $24.95 + $2.55 for the orange locking device at...

http://www.scherrs.com/shop/index.ht...tml&lang=en-us

Rockler wants $40 for a 21" slide which includes the lock and the rear
mounting bracket.

Where's the source you found?

If I use the Blum tandems I won't be able to keep the drawer sides flush
with the drawer front and use a dovetail joint. The sides need to be inset
3/8. Unless your thinking that the slides are behind the face frame any way,
which means the slides can move out rather than the sides of the drawer
moving in. Hmmm, that could work.

Roland.


"Earl Creel" wrote in message
news:YoYPb.4197$ce2.2626@okepread03...
Just about any wood will work for a drawer but if you have access to
reasonably priced maple that is what I would recommend. Makes a beautiful
strong drawer. Use dovetail joints for the front corners and make the
bottom removable. For large drawers I like to plane my material down to
5/8" or slightly less. (5/8" is the maximum for Blum Tandem slides) Some
maple tends to tear out when planned. To make maple drawers I start with
my
planner then use drum sander to get to final thickness.

While not the traditional approach Blum Tandem slides are hidden, provide
full extension and like you said are super smooth with excellent closing
action. What do you have to pay for Blum Tandem slides? I found a
supplier
on the internet that has the 21" slides for less than $20 per set which is
not that much more than side mounted slides. I bought 6 just a few weeks
back and got excellent service. Ordered them on a Friday they shipped the
following Monday and they Emailed me the UPS tracking number the next
day.

I like to use 1/4" +- plywood covered with plastic laminate for drawer
bottoms.
Earl Creel

"Roland Hart" wrote in message
...
I am making a Mission Style Bedroom armoire. I'm getting close to the
point
where I need to start thinking about the drawers. I am making the
armoire
out of Red oak and am considering either making the drawer sides, back,
and
bottom either out of Baltic Birch Plywood or Solid maple, except the
bottom
which would be maple plywood. The drawers are 40" wide x 7" tall x 22"
deep. What would be your choice?

Another question is the drawer slide hardware. It would seem that
traditional furniture would be to use wood on wood drawer dovetails with
nylon slides on the outsides. This would allow the drawer sides to be
flush
with the drawer front lending itself to either a dovetail joint or an
interlocking rabbet joint. I am also considering the Blum Tandem hidden
underneath drawer slides. They are super smooth and can hold 100 pounds.
Again, what would be your choice?

Thanks,

Roland

Look here. I prefer Accuride but they also carry Blum.

http://www.cabinetparts.com/cgi-loca...74829243.57156

RB

Roland Hart wrote:
I found some for $24.95 + $2.55 for the orange locking device at...

http://www.scherrs.com/shop/index.ht...tml&lang=en-us

Rockler wants $40 for a 21" slide which includes the lock and the rear
mounting bracket.

Where's the source you found?

If I use the Blum tandems I won't be able to keep the drawer sides flush
with the drawer front and use a dovetail joint. The sides need to be inset
3/8. Unless your thinking that the slides are behind the face frame any way,
which means the slides can move out rather than the sides of the drawer
moving in. Hmmm, that could work.

Roland.


"Earl Creel" wrote in message
news:YoYPb.4197$ce2.2626@okepread03...

Just about any wood will work for a drawer but if you have access to
reasonably priced maple that is what I would recommend. Makes a beautiful
strong drawer. Use dovetail joints for the front corners and make the
bottom removable. For large drawers I like to plane my material down to
5/8" or slightly less. (5/8" is the maximum for Blum Tandem slides) Some
maple tends to tear out when planned. To make maple drawers I start with

my

planner then use drum sander to get to final thickness.

While not the traditional approach Blum Tandem slides are hidden, provide
full extension and like you said are super smooth with excellent closing
action. What do you have to pay for Blum Tandem slides? I found a

supplier

on the internet that has the 21" slides for less than $20 per set which is
not that much more than side mounted slides. I bought 6 just a few weeks
back and got excellent service. Ordered them on a Friday they shipped the
following Monday and they Emailed me the UPS tracking number the next

day.

I like to use 1/4" +- plywood covered with plastic laminate for drawer
bottoms.
Earl Creel

"Roland Hart" wrote in message
...

I am making a Mission Style Bedroom armoire. I'm getting close to the

point

where I need to start thinking about the drawers. I am making the

armoire

out of Red oak and am considering either making the drawer sides, back,

and

bottom either out of Baltic Birch Plywood or Solid maple, except the

bottom

which would be maple plywood. The drawers are 40" wide x 7" tall x 22"
deep. What would be your choice?

Another question is the drawer slide hardware. It would seem that
traditional furniture would be to use wood on wood drawer dovetails with
nylon slides on the outsides. This would allow the drawer sides to be

flush

with the drawer front lending itself to either a dovetail joint or an
interlocking rabbet joint. I am also considering the Blum Tandem hidden
underneath drawer slides. They are super smooth and can hold 100 pounds.
Again, what would be your choice?

Thanks,

Roland

I think Stickley would have gone for the modern slides had they been
available. If you can't see it, who cares? Unless your going to be
competing in some kind of contest.

Just my opinion.

manzanar


"Roland Hart" wrote in message
...
I am making a Mission Style Bedroom armoire. I'm getting close to the
point
where I need to start thinking about the drawers. I am making the armoire
out of Red oak and am considering either making the drawer sides, back,
and
bottom either out of Baltic Birch Plywood or Solid maple, except the
bottom
which would be maple plywood. The drawers are 40" wide x 7" tall x 22"
deep. What would be your choice?

Another question is the drawer slide hardware. It would seem that
traditional furniture would be to use wood on wood drawer dovetails with
nylon slides on the outsides. This would allow the drawer sides to be
flush
with the drawer front lending itself to either a dovetail joint or an
interlocking rabbet joint. I am also considering the Blum Tandem hidden
underneath drawer slides. They are super smooth and can hold 100 pounds.
Again, what would be your choice?

Thanks,

Roland