I just picked up a copy of Woodworkers Journal's WORKSHOP projects. I
think it is a year old or so (Winter 2004) (Is this a Rockler gig?)

There are some plans in it for a panel saw.
I have limited space, so that is a good reason.
The sheets of solid surfacing material run around 160 pounds..and MUCH
easier to throw around on edge than flat. Accuracy is nice but more
important later in the fabricating process...I can be out as much as a
whole 1/8" either way over 30". Good reason # 2

Have any of you fine folks built this model or one similar to it?

The 'custom' hardware kit for this puppy is 300 smackeroonies..I'll wing
it with aluminum by the pound (Standard extrusions).... after all, I'm
not making watches.
The accuracy comes later on the bench.. before I make all the pieces to
be assebled on the job site. These knees don't carry the heavy chunks
like they used to. (Which is why they're in the shape they're in? I'm
getting a lube-job on the 27th of Jan..needles in the joint
...yeeeeee-frickin'-haw..)

I would appreciate any and all input.

Thanks in advance.

Rob----who doesn't sweat the petty things and doesn't pet the sweaty
things.

I made this one:

http://store.yahoo.com/woodsmithstore/panelsawkit.html

It is a little cheaper and works well for me. The removable wings are
handy, and it folds back against the wall and only sticks out about 6". I
also have another friend who made the same one. Together, we problably made
about every mistake possible, so if you decide to go with the same plans, I
can probably tell you what not to do.

The main issue seems to be the track that the panel rests on and slides on
while being cut. My friend told me that his was a little tough to push
through, and even with the rabbets had a tendency to gather sawdust. So I
had the bright idea to mount skateboard wheels instead of the wood strip his
uses. I have yet to get them all perfectly aligned (for a number of
reasons) and am thinking of redoing it and going with a wood strip with
teflon on top. If you're interested, I'll look around and see if I can find
the plans.....

Jeff


"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
I just picked up a copy of Woodworkers Journal's WORKSHOP projects. I
think it is a year old or so (Winter 2004) (Is this a Rockler gig?)

There are some plans in it for a panel saw.
I have limited space, so that is a good reason.
The sheets of solid surfacing material run around 160 pounds..and MUCH
easier to throw around on edge than flat. Accuracy is nice but more
important later in the fabricating process...I can be out as much as a
whole 1/8" either way over 30". Good reason # 2

Have any of you fine folks built this model or one similar to it?

The 'custom' hardware kit for this puppy is 300 smackeroonies..I'll wing
it with aluminum by the pound (Standard extrusions).... after all, I'm
not making watches.
The accuracy comes later on the bench.. before I make all the pieces to
be assebled on the job site. These knees don't carry the heavy chunks
like they used to. (Which is why they're in the shape they're in? I'm
getting a lube-job on the 27th of Jan..needles in the joint
..yeeeeee-frickin'-haw..)

I would appreciate any and all input.

Thanks in advance.

Rob----who doesn't sweat the petty things and doesn't pet the sweaty
things.

Robatoy writes:

I'm
getting a lube-job on the 27th of Jan..needles in the joint
..yeeeeee-frickin'-haw..)

Got that last month, and the month before. Both knees in five weeks (three
shots per, got one shot each as the left knee series ended). Not a whole lot of
fun, but it has helped. Do NOT expect to have teenaged knees, but if you're one
of the 50% or so SynVisc and its pals work on, then it saves immediate knee
replacement (12 weeks or so downtime, not to mention one helluva lot more pain
or so I'm told...the shots are unpleasant enough).

Another suggestion: do not trip and land on your knees 10 days after the shots.
It kills about half the good results.

Charlie Self
"A politician is an animal which can sit on a fence and yet keep both ears to
the ground." H. L. Mencken

I have made my own version of a panel saw. Mine is accurate to a 1/64"
or less. My version only crosscuts, I could make it rip but I have a
cabinet saw for that.The tracks are Stanley sliding door hardware, with
two extra rollers. I used 5'-0" rails, 6'-0" rails would be more
convenient.
I would post pictures and the drawings if I could. I can only access
this site with Google Groups and it does not allow me to post
attachments.
Go to Knots forum on the Fine Woodworking website. At the top left you
will see Advanced Search, click on this.Scroll down to you see enter #
and enter 15836.18 This will take you to an archive . Scott resized
my original post as they were too large.The only change I made was to
use 1/8" wire cable for the counter weight rope instead of the nylon
rope I originally had used.

mike

wrote:

I would post pictures and the drawings if I could. I can only access
this site with Google Groups and it does not allow me to post
attachments.

Post the pictures here for free and then put the links here. I for one
would like to see what you've done.

http://tinypic.com/

-- Mark

On 7 Jan 2005 06:47:00 -0800, wrote:

I have made my own version of a panel saw. Mine is accurate to a 1/64"
or less. My version only crosscuts, I could make it rip but I have a
cabinet saw for that.The tracks are Stanley sliding door hardware, with
two extra rollers. I used 5'-0" rails, 6'-0" rails would be more
convenient.

I'm surprised that this tracks so well - based on my experience using this
hardware with sliding doors. You say that there are two extra rollers. So
how many roller sets on each side of the saw? In order to get the
accuracy, do you have to keep steady pressure against the rails -- i.e., 90
degrees to the run of the rails -- so that the rollers stay in the deepest
part of the tracks? Or is this somewhat automatic? TIA. -- Igor

On Fri, 07 Jan 2005 15:43:36 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
wrote:

wrote:

I would post pictures and the drawings if I could. I can only access
this site with Google Groups and it does not allow me to post
attachments.

Post the pictures here for free and then put the links here. I for one
would like to see what you've done.

http://tinypic.com/

-- Mark

Here is the link I tracked down:
http://forums.taunton.com/n/main.asp...18&find=Search