I'm looking for advice on what nailer(s) I should consider for my shop (aka
garage). After a DAGS, I came up with http://tinyurl.com/6r9lf or
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=e... m%26rnum%3D1
(if you like the longer version). It is an almost 4 year old discussion
about nailers and I would like some more up to date discussion.

Although I am not new to woodworking or carpentry, I don't have a lot of
experience in either and would class myself between a beginner and
intermediate. I work in my garage. I have a Delta cabinet TS (X5), 13"
planer, good router and a good compressor.

My near future building plans include a Router Table, bathroom cabinet,
laundry room cabinet, replace all kitchen cabinets (oak) and then off to
furniture after all that.

So, I guess I'm looking for brad and pin nailers? What guage would be
better/best? I don't have an unlimited budget, but I don't plan on spending
just $40 bucks either.

--

FMB
(only one B in FMB)

On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 17:34:54 GMT, "FMB" wrote:

I'm looking for advice on what nailer(s) I should consider for my shop

A hammer.

I've had a PC BN200 for several years now. I plan to augment it one day
with a couple of sizes larger and a size smaller (15 ga finish nails and
pins plus a round head nailer). I have no complaints about the 18ga x 2
inch nailer. For my use, it's been the best compromise first nialer.
Good for applying molding, tacking things in place while glue dries,
slapping together storage boxes and drawers. From your description of
your near term projects, I'd think this model or equivalent would serve
you well.

bob g.

FMB wrote:
I'm looking for advice on what nailer(s) I should consider for my shop (aka
garage). After a DAGS, I came up with http://tinyurl.com/6r9lf or
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=e... m%26rnum%3D1
(if you like the longer version). It is an almost 4 year old discussion
about nailers and I would like some more up to date discussion.

Although I am not new to woodworking or carpentry, I don't have a lot of
experience in either and would class myself between a beginner and
intermediate. I work in my garage. I have a Delta cabinet TS (X5), 13"
planer, good router and a good compressor.

My near future building plans include a Router Table, bathroom cabinet,
laundry room cabinet, replace all kitchen cabinets (oak) and then off to
furniture after all that.

So, I guess I'm looking for brad and pin nailers? What guage would be
better/best? I don't have an unlimited budget, but I don't plan on spending
just $40 bucks either.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 17:34:54 GMT, "FMB" wrote:

I'm looking for advice on what nailer(s) I should consider for my shop

A hammer.


Thanks, Andy, and you are very correct. I do have several of those though,
and would like a pneumatic nailer or two. I should have been more specific.
--

FMB
(only one B in FMB)

PC, DeWalt, Bostitch are all good....and half a dozen others too :-) ..in
fact I think it is like most of the other tools, you can't really go wrong
with the big brand (DeWalt, PC, Makita, Paslode, Senco, Bostitch ...)
I have the PC BN200....the Bostitch SX150 stappler....I like the Bostich
very much...oilfree and jam free design...rear exhaust...If I had to buy a
nailer I would buy the Bostitch...
my 2 cents...

--
Mike

"FMB" a écrit dans le message de news:
.. .
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 17:34:54 GMT, "FMB" wrote:

I'm looking for advice on what nailer(s) I should consider for my shop

A hammer.


Thanks, Andy, and you are very correct. I do have several of those though,
and would like a pneumatic nailer or two. I should have been more
specific.
--

FMB
(only one B in FMB)

On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 20:17:12 GMT, "FMB" wrote:

I do have several [hammers] though,
and would like a pneumatic nailer or two.

But why ? They're expensive, heavy, fussy on what size of nail they
use and I still fail to see what benefit they deliver. I use plenty of
air tools that do things I can't do by hand, but hammering nails in is
easy (if not easier) to do manually. What's this big thing for
nailers? -- I'm still not getting it


--
Smert' spamionam

Your sure not going to talk me out of my nailers.

cm


"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 20:17:12 GMT, "FMB" wrote:

I do have several [hammers] though,
and would like a pneumatic nailer or two.

But why ? They're expensive, heavy, fussy on what size of nail they
use and I still fail to see what benefit they deliver. I use plenty of
air tools that do things I can't do by hand, but hammering nails in is
easy (if not easier) to do manually. What's this big thing for
nailers? -- I'm still not getting it


--
Smert' spamionam

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message

But why ? They're expensive, heavy, fussy on what size of nail they
use and I still fail to see what benefit they deliver. I use plenty of
air tools that do things I can't do by hand, but hammering nails in is
easy (if not easier) to do manually. What's this big thing for
nailers? -- I'm still not getting it

If you're happy with your hammers I'm happy for you; I'd bet than nothing we
do or say will convince you otherwise.

Some of us have automatic transmissions, microwaves, clothes dryers, and
electric lights. None of them are needed, but we like having them anyway.
We (in the US) even have Daylight Savings Time and it saves neither daylight
nor time.

But it is still neat just to pull that trigger and Wham!. nail is set.

On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 17:34:54 GMT, "FMB" wrote:


So, I guess I'm looking for brad and pin nailers? What guage would be
better/best? I don't have an unlimited budget, but I don't plan on spending
just $40 bucks either.


I find air nailers to be GREAT for finish carpentry. Never again a
half moon on the molding! For that, you'll need a 15 ga. finish
nailer, angled tips are best. For quickly assembling jigs, backs on
cabinets, etc... An 18 ga. brad nailer is good.

I don't usually use nails in fine furniture, and there isn't a reason
to in typical kitchen or bathroom cabinetry.

I have a Senco 15 ga., and Porter Cable 16 and 18 ga. nailers. The 16
is kind of an orphan, it came in a kit with a compressor and the 18
ga. brad nailer.

Barry

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 20:17:12 GMT, "FMB" wrote:


I do have several [hammers] though,
and would like a pneumatic nailer or two.


But why ? They're expensive, heavy, fussy on what size of nail they
use and I still fail to see what benefit they deliver. I use plenty of
air tools that do things I can't do by hand, but hammering nails in is
easy (if not easier) to do manually. What's this big thing for
nailers? -- I'm still not getting it


They are certainly not required for woodworking. Indeed I use very few
if any nails even for furniture. Carpentry is another story. There is
nothing like a nailer for delivering a fastener to and out of the way
place or any time that swinging a hammer is problematic. Just depends
upon the use, I guess.
mahalo,
jo4hn

On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 21:44:47 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:

But it is still neat just to pull that trigger and Wham!. nail is set.

Yeah, but you're only holding things while the glue dries

Andy Dingley wrote:

But why ? They're expensive, heavy, fussy on what size of nail they
use and I still fail to see what benefit they deliver. I use plenty of
air tools that do things I can't do by hand, but hammering nails in is
easy (if not easier) to do manually. What's this big thing for
nailers? -- I'm still not getting it

My finish nailer sure came in handy lately when I had to toe-nail some
window trim through the top of the trim into the header and there was only
3" (76.2 millimeters) between the top of the trim and the ceiling.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

Go for an 18ga Brad nailer. Make sure you get one that shots from
5/8-2" or 2"+. Some lower cost options only do 3/4" or only go up to 1
1/4".

I've found the 5/8" to be important. You may end up wioth applications
such as lapping to pieces of 3/4" stoc with rabbits or dados, etc and
only have 3/4 total material to join and the 5/8" is cool.

At the upper end 1 1/4" should be OK because you might be shooting
through 3/4and that alows you to shoot into another piece of 3/4"
without shooting through. However, I often find I have some lap
situation where I have 1/4" ply over 3/4" stocck and want to shoot al
the way through both and 1 1/4" won't do it. Also toe nailing or
shootoing up through crown molding can require more than 1 1/4" also.

The PC is probably the most common but I've personnaly had some
problems with them. Senco is much quieter and "I think" does a better
job. Recently one of the wood mags reviewed about 20 different models
and Paslode was the one that impressed me the most. I'd buy either
Senco or Paslode (if you can find it).

Keep in mind, brad nailers are typically used in conjunction with
gluing applications. If you are looking to do nailing only type
applications, then I would go up to a 15ga finish nailer.


"FMB" wrote in message .com...
I'm looking for advice on what nailer(s) I should consider for my shop (aka
garage). After a DAGS, I came up with http://tinyurl.com/6r9lf or
http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=e... m%26rnum%3D1
(if you like the longer version). It is an almost 4 year old discussion
about nailers and I would like some more up to date discussion.

Although I am not new to woodworking or carpentry, I don't have a lot of
experience in either and would class myself between a beginner and
intermediate. I work in my garage. I have a Delta cabinet TS (X5), 13"
planer, good router and a good compressor.

My near future building plans include a Router Table, bathroom cabinet,
laundry room cabinet, replace all kitchen cabinets (oak) and then off to
furniture after all that.

So, I guess I'm looking for brad and pin nailers? What guage would be
better/best? I don't have an unlimited budget, but I don't plan on spending
just $40 bucks either.

I do have several [hammers] though,
and would like a pneumatic nailer or two.

But why ? They're expensive, heavy, fussy on what size of nail they
use and I still fail to see what benefit they deliver. I use plenty of
air tools that do things I can't do by hand, but hammering nails in is
easy (if not easier) to do manually. What's this big thing for
nailers? -- I'm still not getting it

Try putting up a few hundred feet of crown moulding with a nailer and you
may change your mind.

Andy Dingley wrote:

But why ? They're expensive, heavy, fussy on what size of nail they
use and I still fail to see what benefit they deliver.

I have yet to hit my thumb with my brad nailer. My hammer, on the other
hand...

-AD

Adam Diehl wrote in
:

Andy Dingley wrote:

But why ? They're expensive, heavy, fussy on what size of nail they
use and I still fail to see what benefit they deliver.

I have yet to hit my thumb with my brad nailer. My hammer, on the other
hand...

-AD


I DID get my ring finger with a 2" 18ga brad, when doing trim moulding for
my wife's den. Bled some, bruised more, pierced the nail from the
fingerprint side. Healed in a month. Made for a story at work for a
while.

I had my hand in the wrong place, and the brad seemed to have hit a framing
nail. If I had been shooting the 1 1/4" brads that were in the other
nailer, and were sufficient for the task, I would have not had any problem.

My PC's are fine. The compressor is pretty loud, though. What Bill said
about the glue is true, though.

Patriarch

On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 19:11:29 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 17:34:54 GMT, "FMB" wrote:

I'm looking for advice on what nailer(s) I should consider for my shop

A hammer.

only ONE???

On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 20:17:12 GMT, "FMB" wrote:

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 17:34:54 GMT, "FMB" wrote:

I'm looking for advice on what nailer(s) I should consider for my shop

A hammer.


Thanks, Andy, and you are very correct. I do have several of those though,
and would like a pneumatic nailer or two. I should have been more specific.

I'll step up and admit that I have 2 extremely inexpensive 18 gauge
brad drivers from HF...
the 1st one worked so well, I went and got another one when they went
on sale.. nice to have different size brads ready for things like
drawers, where I'm using 1 1/4 brads on the sides but that would be
over kill on the bottoms.. so the other gun has 1/2" in it..

On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 22:16:52 -0500, Adam Diehl
wrote:

I have yet to hit my thumb with my brad nailer.

If you did though....

As to the "hundreds of feet of crown moulding" - well, I know a few
people round here do this regularly, and they're the ones who have a
good use for a pneumatic tool. For the rest of us though ? Last
time I did crown moulding it was in tens of feet, not hundreds, and I
still preferred the convenience of a hammer.

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 06:02:39 GMT, mac davis
wrote:

A hammer.

only ONE???

Now don't be silly !


I think there's about 50 hammers or mallets in the workshop.
Admittedly most of those are for sheetmetalworking, which uses _lots_
of different hammers.

But why ? They're expensive, heavy, fussy on what size of nail they
use and I still fail to see what benefit they deliver. I use plenty of
air tools that do things I can't do by hand, but hammering nails in is
easy (if not easier) to do manually. What's this big thing for
nailers? -- I'm still not getting it

I like working with wood, but I am the first to admit that being in the IT
industry doesn't give me the practice I need to nail with missing the nail
and dinging the wood, drywall, my thumb, or whatever. I guess if I nailed
for years and was a pro, a hammer would suffice. Nailing in awkward corners
is much easier, too.

I guess like the Colt 45 (the pistol, not the beer), a nailer is the great
equalizer.

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 03:50:16 GMT, patriarch
calmly ranted:

Adam Diehl wrote in
:

Andy Dingley wrote:

But why ? They're expensive, heavy, fussy on what size of nail they
use and I still fail to see what benefit they deliver.

I have yet to hit my thumb with my brad nailer. My hammer, on the other
hand...

I DID get my ring finger with a 2" 18ga brad, when doing trim moulding for
my wife's den. Bled some, bruised more, pierced the nail from the
fingerprint side. Healed in a month. Made for a story at work for a
while.

"I escaped before they had me entirely nailed to that crucifix.", eh?
chortle


I had my hand in the wrong place, and the brad seemed to have hit a framing
nail. If I had been shooting the 1 1/4" brads that were in the other
nailer, and were sufficient for the task, I would have not had any problem.

I had my finger in the wrong place nailing a bird house back together
for my neighbor. The brad hit a knot and went sideways into my finger
1/4". Those sting, so I have a renewed respect for the little buggers.


================================================== ========
CAUTION: Do not use remaining fingers as pushsticks!
================================================== ========
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 11:12:52 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Sun, 05 Dec 2004 22:16:52 -0500, Adam Diehl
wrote:

I have yet to hit my thumb with my brad nailer.

If you did though....

As to the "hundreds of feet of crown moulding" - well, I know a few
people round here do this regularly, and they're the ones who have a
good use for a pneumatic tool. For the rest of us though ? Last
time I did crown moulding it was in tens of feet, not hundreds, and I
still preferred the convenience of a hammer.

it's either a difference in skill level (most likely) or number of
hands, but I use my brad driver mostly for holding stuff while the
glue drys... and I have enough trouble being coordinated enough to
hold the clamp or work with one hand and nail with the other..
If i had to hold a nail in one hand and a hammer in the other, I'd
have to promise to never chew gum in the shop.. lol

Larry Jaques wrote:
[snip]
I had my finger in the wrong place nailing a bird house back together
for my neighbor. The brad hit a knot and went sideways into my finger
1/4". Those sting, so I have a renewed respect for the little buggers.


================================================== ========
CAUTION: Do not use remaining fingers as pushsticks!
================================================== ========
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

There is an old Swedish saying that goes something like "Don't get
buggered by a brad nailer". Good advice any time.
mahalo,
jo4hn

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 16:08:20 GMT, mac davis
wrote:

I use my brad driver mostly for holding stuff while the
glue drys

My brad driver is an ancient gadget called a "pushpin".
Screwdriver-like handle, with a telescopic brass tube nose and a
magnet inside. You drop a panel pin down the tube, place the nose on
the moulding and push the handle. For things up to about 1" moulding
pins it's great - I can either drive them flush, drive them nearly in
and finish with a cross-pein hammer, or just half drive them so I can
easily pull them later.

--
Smert' spamionam

I have a 15 ga finish nailer, 18 ga brad nailer, 23 ga pin nailer, and
a narrow ga
crown stapler and love them all.

My advice is to start w/ the 18 ga brad nailer. It is most flexible,
i.e. can do
the most jobs.

Actually, my favorite is the 23 ga pin nailer. I love tacking moulding
on furniture
while the glue dries. The pins are invisible.

Most important rule: keep your non-trigger hand at least one fastener
length away from
the action, otherwise *bad* things can happen.

Rex

FMB wrote:
I'm looking for advice on what nailer(s) I should consider for my
shop (aka
garage).

Most important rule: keep your non-trigger hand at least one fastener
length away from
the action, otherwise *bad* things can happen.


A good "rule of thumb..."

Sorry....

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 16:57:45 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Mon, 06 Dec 2004 16:08:20 GMT, mac davis
wrote:

I use my brad driver mostly for holding stuff while the
glue drys

My brad driver is an ancient gadget called a "pushpin".
Screwdriver-like handle, with a telescopic brass tube nose and a
magnet inside. You drop a panel pin down the tube, place the nose on
the moulding and push the handle. For things up to about 1" moulding
pins it's great - I can either drive them flush, drive them nearly in
and finish with a cross-pein hammer, or just half drive them so I can
easily pull them later.
damn, I actually have one of those around somewhere...
not as fancy as yours, but I remember it working for brads in soft
wood..