Hello all;

I am looking for an article on a chair seat scooping jig. I believe it
is in Woodsmith #76. I believe it uses either a skilsaw or router to
scoop out the seat for a windsor chair. If anyone has a copy of the
article, would you check to see if that is what it is about?

Thank you in advance,

Dan Harriman
Orange, Texas
email is woodworkerdan at yahoo dot com

On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 03:05:20 GMT, Dan calmly
ranted:

Hello all;

I am looking for an article on a chair seat scooping jig. I believe it
is in Woodsmith #76. I believe it uses either a skilsaw or router to
scoop out the seat for a windsor chair. If anyone has a copy of the
article, would you check to see if that is what it is about?

Why go Normite when you can happily Neander this one, Dan?

Hey, all you need is this lovely little bronze tool:
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/produ...ept _id=12045

or a travisher:
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/produ...ept _id=11847

or a scorp, and this one's a great deal:
http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/L5002250.htm

or an adze:
http://www.wisementrading.com/woodworking/gransfors.htm #1248
http://www.japanwoodworker.com/produ...ep t_id=11556


-- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive --

Larry Jaques wrote in
:

On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 03:05:20 GMT, Dan calmly
ranted:

Hello all;

I am looking for an article on a chair seat scooping jig. I
believe it is in Woodsmith #76.

Why go Normite when you can happily Neander this one, Dan?


hehehe, good point Larry! I actually saw Norm using those very tools
this past weekend. He is making a Windsor chair. I think that I may
have seen a bead or two of sweat coming from his brow when he was
using them!

I have found the article and it wasn't what I was looking for anyway.
It shows how to hollow out the seat for a shop stool.

Take care and make more sawdust,

Dan Harriman
Orange, Texas

On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 15:17:49 GMT, Dan calmly
ranted:

Larry Jaques wrote in

Why go Normite when you can happily Neander this one, Dan?

hehehe, good point Larry! I actually saw Norm using those very tools
this past weekend. He is making a Windsor chair. I think that I may
have seen a bead or two of sweat coming from his brow when he was
using them!

Amazing! Did you record that? Nobody'll believe you.


I have found the article and it wasn't what I was looking for anyway.
It shows how to hollow out the seat for a shop stool.

Iffen ya wants ta go the Normite route, pick up one of the King Arthur
Tools Lancelot disc. It's a 4-1/2" diameter chainsaw. (Ar ar ar)
Ditto the Arbortec discs and Kutzall carbide discs.


Take care and make more sawdust,

I'm finally out there doing that and it feels good.

---
Is it time for your medication or mine?
http://diversify.com Custom Website Applications

I have found the article and it wasn't what I was looking for anyway.
It shows how to hollow out the seat for a shop stool.

Iffen ya wants ta go the Normite route, pick up one of the King Arthur
Tools Lancelot disc. It's a 4-1/2" diameter chainsaw. (Ar ar ar)
Ditto the Arbortec discs and Kutzall carbide discs.

You can also buy a rubber-backed sanding disk for the DeWalt Low Angle
grinder. When loaded with 24 grit, it's _almost_ as agressive as the
Lancelot, and slightly safer. Think high power rasp. Available at the
BORG. Cheap!

LOTS of fun. Use outside, or clean up the dust for hours.

Just please don't carve another bear from a log, though. It's been done
already.

Patriarch

On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 19:34:37 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

pick up one of the King Arthur Tools Lancelot disc.
It's a 4-1/2" diameter chainsaw. (Ar ar ar)

NFW !!!

Ditto the Arbortec discs and Kutzall carbide discs.

Haven't used a Kutzall. The Arbortech is _much_ safer to handle than a
Lancelot - my favoured power tool for hollowing seat bases, and life's
too short and tiresome already to carve an arse-rest in an elm seat
base using a scorp and curved drawknife.

The chainsaws disks have a vicious tendency to kick back. The
Arbortech has different shaped teeth and doesn't do this. It's still
terrifying, but only in a good way.



--
Socialism: Eric, not Tony

In article ,
Andy Dingley wrote:

life's
too short and tiresome already to carve an arse-rest in an elm seat
base using a scorp and curved drawknife.

I watched a fellow (David Ambrose I believe) do this using a scorp,
drawknife and shave and he did it *amazingly* fast; I am not entirely
sure it could be done faster with a non-automated power tool. Mind you
he uses Pine for the seat.

Paul Kierstead responds:

In article ,
Andy Dingley wrote:

life's
too short and tiresome already to carve an arse-rest in an elm seat
base using a scorp and curved drawknife.

I watched a fellow (David Ambrose I believe) do this using a scorp,
drawknife and shave and he did it *amazingly* fast; I am not entirely
sure it could be done faster with a non-automated power tool. Mind you
he uses Pine for the seat.

Gotta go with Andy on this one. Elm is the reason. A big "No thanks!"

Many other woods are easier, faster in such use. Pine, poplar (pick one), red
oak even if it's knot free, alder, cherry, butternut, walnut, and others.

Elm can be a bitch to work by hand. American elm, if you can find any, is cross
grained, while slippery elm, more readily found, tends to wild grain that is
hard to work.All the elms I've seen fuzz up so finishing is a bit of a PITA,
though when done, they look great. I don't know what kind of elm they've got in
Blighty, but I'd guess it isn't much more fun for hand work.

Charlie Self
"Giving every man a vote has no more made men wise and free than Christianity
has made them good." H. L. Mencken

On 26 Nov 2004 12:29:33 GMT, otforme (Charlie Self)
wrote:

I don't know what kind of elm they've got in
Blighty, but I'd guess it isn't much more fun for hand work.

Dead, mostly. Since Dutch elm disease hit in the '70s. A piece big
enough for a seat base is now worth good money. As you said,
interlocked grain is the problem with hand working it.

Actually we have _lots_ of elms, just not a useful size. Our elms
(except wych elm) reproduce by suckering and the beetle-borne diseases
kill the trunk rather than killing the root crown. If you look around
hedges when the leaves are off you can often see a line of small elm
trees in the hedge, all but the last one are dead. The tree puts up
a stem that grows happily for a few years until it's a small tree,
maybe 8' high and 4" diameter. Below this size, the beetles don't
bore into it. When it gets a bit bigger the beetles arrive and kill
the new trunk. The root responds by suckering and forming a new stem a
few feet away. A few years later, the cycle repeats again. This seems
to be on the opposite side from the original stem's source, so these
new trunk form a straight line. I've seen lines of five or six dead
trunks that must have been growing like this since the disease's
original arrival.


Still, if you're going to import problematic foreign critters, at
least elm beetles aren't as bad as Stalin's Giant Crabs
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/main.../ixportal.html
--
Smert' spamionam

Larry Jaques wrote in message . ..
On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 03:05:20 GMT, Dan calmly
ranted:

Hello all;

I am looking for an article on a chair seat scooping jig. I believe it
is in Woodsmith #76. I believe it uses either a skilsaw or router to
scoop out the seat for a windsor chair. If anyone has a copy of the
article, would you check to see if that is what it is about?

Why go Normite when you can happily Neander this one, Dan?


some of us have to get the presents done by Christmas!

On Fri, 26 Nov 2004 03:27:42 +0000, Andy Dingley
calmly ranted:

On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 19:34:37 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

pick up one of the King Arthur Tools Lancelot disc.
It's a 4-1/2" diameter chainsaw. (Ar ar ar)

NFW !!!

Wuss! g


Ditto the Arbortec discs and Kutzall carbide discs.

Haven't used a Kutzall. The Arbortech is _much_ safer to handle than a
Lancelot - my favoured power tool for hollowing seat bases, and life's
too short and tiresome already to carve an arse-rest in an elm seat
base using a scorp and curved drawknife.

One could lose 2 pounds (weight, not Brit money) doing so, though.
It's both good exercise physically and a good hand/eye coordination
test.


The chainsaws disks have a vicious tendency to kick back. The
Arbortech has different shaped teeth and doesn't do this. It's still
terrifying, but only in a good way.

Chainsaw teeth have anti-kickback rails shaped very much like the
Arbortec discs. If Arbortec's products weren't double that price,
I'd have one already. Both are equally dangerous, much like every
other tool we own. This is a dangerous hobby.


--------------------------------------
PESSIMIST: An optimist with experience
--------------------------------------------
www.diversify.com - Web Database Development

On Fri, 26 Nov 2004 08:34:04 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote:

Both are equally dangerous, much like every
other tool we own.

No, they're both dangerous, but one is much worse than the other. Go
to an outdoor carving event and ask around.

Arbortechs are cheaper anyway. It's only the carbide tipped arbortech
that's expensive.
--
Smert' spamionam