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#1
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A 20millionth use for a router??
Hi,
I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I use my brand new router as it's plunge? Ta -- Cheers, Sam |
#2
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Yes. Use a spiral-cutting bit to remove the chips while boring. The
downside: the variety of sizes of spiral-cutting router bits is limited compared to drill bit sizes. Of course, the depth of the hole will be only equal to the travel of your router's plunge mechanism so you won't be drilling any through holes in thick material. "Sam Berlyn" wrote in message ... Hi, I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I use my brand new router as it's plunge? Ta -- Cheers, Sam |
#3
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I made a jig from 1/2 inch aluminum stock to plunge rout adjustable shelf
holes holes with a plunge router, a template guide and a 1/4 inch spiral up bit. I took a 4 foot piece of stock and laid out the holes on 1 1/4 inch centers. I drilled the holes 1/2 inch on the drill press. I then installed edge stops and a bottom tailpiece to index the start of the holes from the bottom edge of the board. I clamp the jig on to the wood and pluge rout the hole in whatever spacing I wanted. It is actually very quick. A 33 inch high cabinet can be done in under 5 minutes with very clean holes. max Hi, I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I use my brand new router as it's plunge? Ta |
#4
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On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:07:33 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
wrote: Hi, I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I use my brand new router as it's plunge? Ta of course you can. plunge routers can make very nice holes. that is assuming you don't need holes deeper than the plunge depth of the router. with some jigging up the plunge router is quite serviceable for making a bunch of holes all the same, like for the shelf support pegs for adjustable shelving. |
#5
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On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:07:33 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
wrote: I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, No. Holes come in a range of diameters. A set of drill bits and a drill to use them are much cheaper than even a couple of router bits. Although it's deeply unfashionable these days, a hand drill or a brace is still a cheap and _very_controllable_ way to turn drill bits. A cheap cordless drill with trigger-controlled speed isn't expensive either . Take your 40 quid "table saw fund" into B&Q and spend it on an own-brand "Performance Power" single-speed drill (no gearbox, no hammer, adjustable speed trigger), a box of drills up to 13mm (black in real HSS are better than gold) and a countersink bit. Router bits won't drill either. Some will, but most have a "dead spot" in the centre where the flutes don't overlap. If you're moving them sideways this doesn't matter, but it stops them making round holes. It also helps to use spiral fluted router bits to clear chips, and these are really expensive. You _can_ drill with a router, but it's an unpleasant job. They're just too fast - even when adjusted to their slowest speed. You're also using a cutter that wants nothing more than to cut sideways - this doesn't encourage accurate holes. -- Smert' spamionam |
#6
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max wrote:
I made a jig from 1/2 inch aluminum stock to plunge rout adjustable shelf holes holes with a plunge router, a template guide and a 1/4 inch spiral up bit. I took a 4 foot piece of stock and laid out the holes on 1 1/4 inch centers. I drilled the holes 1/2 inch on the drill press. I then installed edge stops and a bottom tailpiece to index the start of the holes from the bottom edge of the board. I clamp the jig on to the wood and pluge rout the hole in whatever spacing I wanted. It is actually very quick. A 33 inch high cabinet can be done in under 5 minutes with very clean holes. max Why don't you just use the drill press? Hi, I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I use my brand new router as it's plunge? Ta |
#7
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Sam, I thought of using the router for shelve pins. But trying to keep that router exactly in place without some form of jig when your trying to do the plunge, if you have a fairly stiff spring, it won't be easy to do. Some would say it's impossible. I concluded I was better off buying an inexpensive drill press. A house brand table top model is $100 CDN on sale here. It's less expensive that having to replace whatever your working on. Pat On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:07:33 -0000, "Sam Berlyn" wrote: Hi, I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I use my brand new router as it's plunge? Ta |
#8
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Never parted with a tool because of voltage. Transformers are so cheap.
Used all my USA tools in West Germany and brought the West German tools back to the USA. Get a transformer. bob g. mare wrote: SawDust wrote: Sam, I thought of using the router for shelve pins. But trying to keep that router exactly in place without some form of jig when your trying to do the plunge, if you have a fairly stiff spring, it won't be easy to do. Some would say it's impossible. I recently had to drill a lot of holes for Euro style shelf supports. Around 10,000 of them. I thought about buying a Festool guide rail jig, but finally went for a Veritas jig from Lee Valley. I had blisters on my thumb after I finished and the motion of moving the drill bit in and out the holes was really tiring. A really good way to get RSI. So I might buy the Festool jig if I ever have to make a lot of holes again. Speaking of Festool, I received my Festool plunge cut circular saw today and although it's probably the most expensive handsaw on the market it works so nice. I used to have one when I lived in Europe (a lot of professionals use Festool in Europe, although it's not that known in North America yet) but I had to sell it when I came to Canada because of the voltage difference. It is really a big difference compared to DeWalts and the like. It's also twice the price... http://www.festool-usa.com/portando/...STOOL_Cat04_pg 022-027.pdf |
#9
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On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:07:33 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
wrote: Hi, I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I use my brand new router as it's plunge? Ta That's how I drilled the dog holes in my workbench. It's much easier to get perfectly vertical holes that way. |
#10
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If you are working on larger panels it is easier to leave the panel on the
bench and move the router. This jig also assures that every hole is spaced properly so that the shelves don't wobble. You can also use the jig to drill holes in a cabinet already assembled. max wrote: I made a jig from 1/2 inch aluminum stock to plunge rout adjustable shelf holes holes with a plunge router, a template guide and a 1/4 inch spiral up bit. I took a 4 foot piece of stock and laid out the holes on 1 1/4 inch centers. I drilled the holes 1/2 inch on the drill press. I then installed edge stops and a bottom tailpiece to index the start of the holes from the bottom edge of the board. I clamp the jig on to the wood and pluge rout the hole in whatever spacing I wanted. It is actually very quick. A 33 inch high cabinet can be done in under 5 minutes with very clean holes. max Why don't you just use the drill press? Hi, I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I use my brand new router as it's plunge? Ta |
#11
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max wrote:
If you are working on larger panels it is easier to leave the panel on the bench and move the router. This jig also assures that every hole is spaced properly so that the shelves don't wobble. You can also use the jig to drill holes in a cabinet already assembled. Good point! |
#12
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Cheers Andy,
I already have a cheap drill from Argos, and I also have some bits, my Dad has a countersink, so it looks like i'm ready.. the only point it that in my post, I was talking about vertical holes, how do I hold my drill still enough? Sam "Andy Dingley" wrote in message news On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:07:33 -0000, "Sam Berlyn" wrote: I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, No. Holes come in a range of diameters. A set of drill bits and a drill to use them are much cheaper than even a couple of router bits. Although it's deeply unfashionable these days, a hand drill or a brace is still a cheap and _very_controllable_ way to turn drill bits. A cheap cordless drill with trigger-controlled speed isn't expensive either . Take your 40 quid "table saw fund" into B&Q and spend it on an own-brand "Performance Power" single-speed drill (no gearbox, no hammer, adjustable speed trigger), a box of drills up to 13mm (black in real HSS are better than gold) and a countersink bit. Router bits won't drill either. Some will, but most have a "dead spot" in the centre where the flutes don't overlap. If you're moving them sideways this doesn't matter, but it stops them making round holes. It also helps to use spiral fluted router bits to clear chips, and these are really expensive. You _can_ drill with a router, but it's an unpleasant job. They're just too fast - even when adjusted to their slowest speed. You're also using a cutter that wants nothing more than to cut sideways - this doesn't encourage accurate holes. -- Smert' spamionam |
#13
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"Sam Berlyn" wrote in message ... Cheers Andy, I already have a cheap drill from Argos, and I also have some bits, my Dad has a countersink, so it looks like i'm ready.. the only point it that in my post, I was talking about vertical holes, how do I hold my drill still enough? ---------------- You can use one of these things...: http://www.wolfcraft.de/en/produkte/...&prdGrpID=0602 I got mine from Screwfix (site unavailable at the moment so no link I'm afraid). Expect to pay around £26 for it. Note: It ONLY fits drills with a 43mm collar (most corded drills and no cordless drill that I've ever come across). It's mucho handy. |
#14
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On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 09:20:19 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
wrote: I was talking about vertical holes, how do I hold my drill still enough? Practice, and gluing a spirit level to the drill body can help. You can buy little plastic spirit level bubbles for this, but it's nearly as much trouble to stick them on accurately. If you really needed to drill accurately square holes in the middle of a panel (so you can't use a drill press), then the router base might be useful (so long as you can get the speed down). Mainly though you just don't care - hole drilling rarely needs super-accuracy. I made a couple of folding plywood stools yesterday, where the hinge pins are 5mm steel rod in drilled holes through 3/4" ply. All just hand-drilled holes held square by eye, yet the folding is free enough that they must have been reasonably accurate. -- Smert' spamionam |
#15
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On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 09:20:19 -0000, "Sam Berlyn"
calmly ranted: Cheers Andy, I already have a cheap drill from Argos, and I also have some bits, my Dad has a countersink, so it looks like i'm ready.. the only point it that in my post, I was talking about vertical holes, how do I hold my drill still enough? If you don't have a drill press, the second best thing is a combo of a drill guide and a brad point bit. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...46310?v=glance This one's adjustable for angle. Mine isn't and was only $20 (almost 20 years ago. -- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive -- |
#16
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On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 21:37:58 -0700, Mark & Juanita
calmly ranted: On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:07:33 -0000, "Sam Berlyn" wrote: Hi, I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I use my brand new router as it's plunge? Ta That's how I drilled the dog holes in my workbench. It's much easier to get perfectly vertical holes that way. I used my humongous and expansive $40 HF drill press and an LVT forstner in the jarrah benchtop. Hey, I finally finished the carving bench this morning, boys and girls. After only 2 (or was that 3?) years of planning. www.diversify.com/wood/index.html Click the carving bench link or pic, both are hot. -- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive -- |
#17
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"Larry Jaques" calmly ranted: Hey, I finally finished the carving bench this morning, boys and girls. After only 2 (or was that 3?) years of planning. Mine took a morning +/- and it looks it.. Posted here a while backs. Not as nice as yours but I just don't have the space for another table so mine sits on the table saw extension. I use those Veritas dog hole screws too....they're good. Do you have any plans on increasing the mass of the top so when you whomp the tool with your mallet the carving doesn't bounce? I'm thinking of adding a shelf under the table top and putting some of those sand bags on it... Post your carving(non-turkey) pix when you get there. Larry |
#18
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On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 18:36:38 GMT, "Lawrence L'Hote"
calmly ranted: "Larry Jaques" calmly ranted: Hey, I finally finished the carving bench this morning, boys and girls. After only 2 (or was that 3?) years of planning. Mine took a morning +/- and it looks it.. Posted here a while backs. Not as nice as yours but I just don't have the space for another table so mine sits on the table saw extension. I use those Veritas dog hole screws too....they're good. Do you have any plans on increasing the mass of the top so when you whomp the tool with your mallet the carving doesn't bounce? No, just to the base shelf, unless practice indicates otherwise. And I haven't found my sheets of 1/16" rubber yet, but will put a couple thicknesses between the top and legs for the heavier downpounding cuts. I have one of those wonderful ShopFox urethane mallets which takes a lot of the bounce out and saves my wrists. The difference between those and wooden mallets is definitely night and day. Post your carving(non-turkey) pix when you get there. Will do. First up is a Mt. Fuji-esque picture similar to the one in Greene & Greene's Culbertson house, probably from my shot of our local Fuji, Mt. Laughlin. Something like this: http://www.istockphoto.com/file_closeup.php?id=200685 -- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive -- |
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#20
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On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 09:17:52 -0800, Larry Jaques
wrote: On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 21:37:58 -0700, Mark & Juanita calmly ranted: On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 23:07:33 -0000, "Sam Berlyn" wrote: Hi, I am wondering if as a cheap way of drilling a vertical hole, could I use my brand new router as it's plunge? Ta That's how I drilled the dog holes in my workbench. It's much easier to get perfectly vertical holes that way. I used my humongous and expansive $40 HF drill press and an LVT forstner in the jarrah benchtop. Would have been a bit unwieldy since I got my bench tops pre-assembled and at 30" x 60", would have been quite a feat to run them across the DP. Hey, I finally finished the carving bench this morning, boys and girls. After only 2 (or was that 3?) years of planning. Congrats, how's the bow saw coming? www.diversify.com/wood/index.html Click the carving bench link or pic, both are hot. -- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive -- |
#21
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On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 13:03:03 +0000, Andy Dingley
wrote: On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 09:20:19 -0000, "Sam Berlyn" wrote: I was talking about vertical holes, how do I hold my drill still enough? Practice, and gluing a spirit level to the drill body can help. You can buy little plastic spirit level bubbles for this, but it's nearly as much trouble to stick them on accurately. Just a note on the level on the drill thing - you need to make sure that your workpiece is level before you start. DAMHIKT Tim Douglass http://www.DouglassClan.com |
#22
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Larry Jaques wrote:
Hey, I finally finished the carving bench this morning, boys and girls. After only 2 (or was that 3?) years of planning. www.diversify.com/wood/index.html Click the carving bench link or pic, both are hot. Very nice! Say, what kind of stain did you use to get the cherry to look like jarrah? Ken Muldrew (remove all letters after y in the alphabet) |
#23
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On Sun, 21 Nov 2004 23:54:41 -0700, Mark & Juanita
calmly ranted: Would have been a bit unwieldy since I got my bench tops pre-assembled and at 30" x 60", would have been quite a feat to run them across the DP. Especially if it had the deep throat (4") mine has. Hey, I finally finished the carving bench this morning, boys and girls. After only 2 (or was that 3?) years of planning. Congrats, how's the bow saw coming? What you see is what you get. www.diversify.com/wood/index.html I imagine that if I finished that bow saur, -many- of you would have heart attacks. I wouldn't want that...or would I? -- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive -- |
#25
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Larry Jaques wrote:
Thanks for the "Very nice!" comment, though. I added that triple sprung tether cord to the underside of the top so it holds itself in place in the most vertical position. It's more stable now. You're welcome. Thanks for posting the pics. Do let us know how it works out in practice. I was carving some ball-and-claw feet over the weekend on a workmate and my back is killing me. Ken Muldrew (remove all letters after y in the alphabet) |
#26
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Larry Jaques wrote in
: Apricot oil? Patriarch |
#27
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On Mon, 22 Nov 2004 22:58:08 GMT, patriarch
calmly ranted: Larry Jaques wrote in : Apricot oil? A sample of massage oil. I was going to order several gallons of it for my masseuse (from LoCal) as a barter product but she didn't go for it. It doesn't go rancid. I couldn't find the sample of walnut oil at the time and it sounded like it'd smell nice, so it got used. The Camellia oil was way too expensive for use there. Which reminds me that I haven't made a wick holder for it yet so I can oil my plane soles. -- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive -- |
#28
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Larry Jaques wrote in
news Apricot oil? A sample of massage oil. I was going to order several gallons of it for my masseuse (from LoCal) as a barter product but she didn't go for it. It doesn't go rancid. I couldn't find the sample of walnut oil at the time and it sounded like it'd smell nice, so it got used. So does it smell nice? Are there other properties it's supposed to have? The Camellia oil was way too expensive for use there. Which reminds me that I haven't made a wick holder for it yet so I can oil my plane soles. Chunk 'o canning wax has lasted for three years so far, and the box is still maybe 80% full. Patriarch |
#29
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On Tue, 23 Nov 2004 05:27:24 GMT, patriarch
calmly ranted: Larry Jaques wrote in news Apricot oil? So does it smell nice? Are there other properties it's supposed to have? Yeah, it has a light fragrance to it. And if you can talk someone into putting it on your neck and shoulders, it has both erotic and soothing/relaxing properties. Hey, there's a thought for my new shop moniker: The Erotic Woodworker. Chunk 'o canning wax has lasted for three years so far, and the box is still maybe 80% full. Uh, since they come 4 sticks to a box, that'd be 75% full, right? I've tried paraffin but didn't like it. Extra pieces went all over the place. I do like Johnson's wax on the soles, though. I wax all my planes during tuneup sessions. Some lasted over a year without any rust at all showing up, so I need to change frequencies. Now that I'm back in the shop again, that shouldn't be a problem. -- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive -- |
#30
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Larry Jaques wrote in
: snip Chunk 'o canning wax has lasted for three years so far, and the box is still maybe 80% full. Uh, since they come 4 sticks to a box, that'd be 75% full, right? When you buy the last box in the store, you MAY find that there is ONE, rather irregular, somewhat misshapen lump in the box, with paper wedged in various parts. But it's wax. I used the finest hardware store house brand carpenter's chisel in my toolbox, and dislodged a chunk. The rest may get applied to snowboards, eventually. I've tried paraffin but didn't like it. Extra pieces went all over the place. I do like Johnson's wax on the soles, though. I wax all my planes during tuneup sessions. Some lasted over a year without any rust at all showing up, so I need to change frequencies. Now that I'm back in the shop again, that shouldn't be a problem. The paraffin is one of those things I learned from previous generations. They just did it that way, and they did good work. I was enough of a smart-a$$ in my early years that I learned to budget my questions, when working with someone who really seemed to have all their ducks lined up, marching to John Phillip Souza... -- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive -- I guess it's ham for the designated drivers, then. Enjoy your feasting, friends and family, as appropriate. Patriarch |
#31
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On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 00:29:21 GMT, patriarch
calmly ranted: Larry Jaques wrote in Uh, since they come 4 sticks to a box, that'd be 75% full, right? When you buy the last box in the store, you MAY find that there is ONE, rather irregular, somewhat misshapen lump in the box, with paper wedged in various parts. But it's wax. I used the finest hardware store house brand carpenter's chisel in my toolbox, and dislodged a chunk. The rest may get applied to snowboards, eventually. Yeah, I did that to mine on a fine 105F day in Vista, CA, too. The paraffin is one of those things I learned from previous generations. They just did it that way, and they did good work. I prefer the oil or a coat of paste wax. Enjoy your canning. My teacher (Jim Kingshott video) is an old-schooler, too. I was enough of a smart-a$$ in my early years that I learned to budget my questions, when working with someone who really seemed to have all their ducks lined up, marching to John Phillip Souza... Souza, eh? Too bad. I'd have preferred Glen Miller's Big Band. Your "learned to budget" phrase reminds me of a passage in "The Farthest Shore". (I'm reading Ursula LeGuin's novels right now, the Earthsea books, before the movie comes out in a couple weeks. She's no Larry Niven but her books are good, and quite enjoyable.) "In Enlad," said Arren after a while, "we have a story about the boy whose schoolmaster was a stone." "Aye? ... What did he learn?" asked Sparrowhawk. "Not to ask questions." -- Friends Don't Let Friends Eat Turkey and Drive -- I guess it's ham for the designated drivers, then. Enjoy your feasting, friends and family, as appropriate. I haven't eaten ham since my sister's ASU college biology class did their investigation in '72. They opened PRECOOKED canned ham and put thin slices under the microscope to find many lifing/moving lifeforms. That was enough for both of us to give up ham for good. Then again, I'll nuke the holy crap out of a slice of bacon once every year or three. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Life is full of little surprises. * Comprehensive Website Development --Pandora * http://www.diversify.com |
#32
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Larry Jaques wrote in
: snip I was enough of a smart-a$$ in my early years that I learned to budget my questions, when working with someone who really seemed to have all their ducks lined up, marching to John Phillip Souza... Souza, eh? Too bad. I'd have preferred Glen Miller's Big Band. As in 'be kind to your web-footed friends, for a duck may be somebody's mother...' Enjoy your feast, even if it is nuts and berries, for we have much for which to be grateful. Patriarch |
#33
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On Wed, 24 Nov 2004 17:41:10 GMT, patriarch
calmly ranted: Larry Jaques wrote in : snip I was enough of a smart-a$$ in my early years that I learned to budget my questions, when working with someone who really seemed to have all their ducks lined up, marching to John Phillip Souza... Souza, eh? Too bad. I'd have preferred Glen Miller's Big Band. As in 'be kind to your web-footed friends, for a duck may be somebody's mother...' Enjoy your feast, even if it is nuts and berries, for we have much for which to be grateful. 13 lb turkey (neighbor and I went shopping together, got free bird) Homemade giblet gravy (neighbor cookes/will make) Mrs. Cubbison's packaged stuffing in the turkey 2 lbs homemade sugarless cranberry sauce (I made that) French sourdough baguette garlic bread (I bought the bread/will make) lettuce, fresh mushrooms, canned olives, canned asparagus in salad sweet potatoes (also sugar-free, her dad is diabetic) sugar free Cheesecake (neighbor will make that) I think I do OK as a single (hermit) person and I'll survive. burp -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-=--=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- Life is full of little surprises. * Comprehensive Website Development --Pandora * http://www.diversify.com |
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