As previous posted I'm in the process of building my daughter a mission sofa
table. To start, mortise & tenons look a lot easier when Norm does it.
Anyway the side rails use through mortises, #1 mistake I used the
measurement from the plans to mark the legs and rails with a pencil (bad
idea) the up and down part of the mortises are longer then the tennon. After
glueup I made little patches to stick in the lower part of the mortise. # 2
this follows Norms advice of measure twice cut ones. I glued up one table
end two legs upper and lower short rails and vertical slats, so far so good.
went to glue up the other table end and checked to see where the long (front
back rails) mortise was (their offset mortises) and after the glue setup and
took the clamps off I realized that the offset is to the outside on one
table end and to the inside to the other table end. At this point I said a
few bad words as I was kicking myself. What I did to fix it was to cut the
tenon off one end of the rails and make new ones on the oposite side. During
a trial assembly it didn't look to bad and was less then a 1/16 off from
outside of legs to rails. # 3 I blew I think was $59. on the woodcraft
tenoning jig and after using it for
several of the tenons it worked ok I guess but kinda tedious. When I had to
recut the tenons today I already had the stacked dado set in the tablesaw
and just used it with a sacrificial fence and for me it did a much faster
and better job of the tenons then the jig. (won't tell swmbo that).
Well enough rambling, hope everyone had a great weekend.

--
Mike S.

http://members.tripod.com/n0yii/woodworking.htm

Mike it does sound like you are having fun! Keep at it!

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Mike S." wrote in message
...
As previous posted I'm in the process of building my daughter a mission
sofa
table. To start, mortise & tenons look a lot easier when Norm does it.
Anyway the side rails use through mortises, #1 mistake I used the
measurement from the plans to mark the legs and rails with a pencil (bad
idea) the up and down part of the mortises are longer then the tennon.
After
glueup I made little patches to stick in the lower part of the mortise. #
2
this follows Norms advice of measure twice cut ones. I glued up one table
end two legs upper and lower short rails and vertical slats, so far so
good.
went to glue up the other table end and checked to see where the long
(front
back rails) mortise was (their offset mortises) and after the glue setup
and
took the clamps off I realized that the offset is to the outside on one
table end and to the inside to the other table end. At this point I said a
few bad words as I was kicking myself. What I did to fix it was to cut the
tenon off one end of the rails and make new ones on the oposite side.
During
a trial assembly it didn't look to bad and was less then a 1/16 off from
outside of legs to rails. # 3 I blew I think was $59. on the woodcraft
tenoning jig and after using it for
several of the tenons it worked ok I guess but kinda tedious. When I had
to
recut the tenons today I already had the stacked dado set in the tablesaw
and just used it with a sacrificial fence and for me it did a much faster
and better job of the tenons then the jig. (won't tell swmbo that).
Well enough rambling, hope everyone had a great weekend.

--
Mike S.

http://members.tripod.com/n0yii/woodworking.htm

"Mike S." wrote in message

# 3 I blew I think was $59. on the woodcraft tenoning jig and after using
it for
several of the tenons it worked ok I guess but kinda tedious. When I had
to recut the tenons today I already had the stacked dado set in the
tablesaw and just used it with a sacrificial fence and for me it did a
much faster and better job of the tenons then the jig.


I find the dado better in many cases also. I bought the jig before I had
the dado and it did do a very good job. For a guide, I clamp a 1" piece to
the fence just ahead of the blade.

OTOH, if you get into angled tenons, the fixture is going to work better
than the dado.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in
:


"Mike S." wrote in message

# 3 I blew I think was $59. on the woodcraft tenoning jig and after
using
it for
several of the tenons it worked ok I guess but kinda tedious. When I
had to recut the tenons today I already had the stacked dado set in
the tablesaw and just used it with a sacrificial fence and for me it
did a much faster and better job of the tenons then the jig.


I find the dado better in many cases also. I bought the jig before I
had the dado and it did do a very good job. For a guide, I clamp a 1"
piece to the fence just ahead of the blade.

OTOH, if you get into angled tenons, the fixture is going to work
better than the dado.


I always find that it extremely useful to have multiple means of miscutting
joinery. ;-)

Patriarch

On Sun, 03 Oct 2004 23:29:29 GMT, "Mike S."
wrote:

this follows Norms advice of measure twice cut ones.

Even better is to not measure it, then you can't get it wrong !

I blast my mortices through with whatever size hole the chisel makes.
Then I set the bandsaw fence up to cut tenons to match the hole. They
plug straight in.

I have a vague idea what size they are. But I don't waste time
measuring this stuff, and it just doesn't matter if my morticer fence
is a bit off (this is a hard adjustment to get accurate on my setup).

Measuring is for repeat work (and yes, I can drone one for hours about
the work of Bramah, Whitworth, Colt and Cadillac). If you really are
just making a one-off, then "standardisation" isn't a meaningful
concept. Chase the thing that matters - fitting the two parts
together _to_each_other_, not trying to match each of them to soem
external standard.

--
Smert' spamionam

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Sun, 03 Oct 2004 23:29:29 GMT, "Mike S."
wrote:

this follows Norms advice of measure twice cut ones.

[snip]

Oh, you mean, "Measure once, curse twice."

Josie

On Mon, 04 Oct 2004 04:48:37 GMT, patriarch
calmly ranted:

I always find that it extremely useful to have multiple means of miscutting
joinery. ;-)

That would be funny if it weren't so true. big sigh


--
Strong like ox, smart like tractor.
----------------------------------
www.diversify.com Oxen-free Website Design

On Mon, 4 Oct 2004 08:27:50 -0400, "firstjois"
calmly ranted:

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Sun, 03 Oct 2004 23:29:29 GMT, "Mike S."
wrote:

this follows Norms advice of measure twice cut ones.

[snip]

Oh, you mean, "Measure once, curse twice."

Dayam! That one's going up in my shop today.


--
Strong like ox, smart like tractor.
----------------------------------
www.diversify.com Oxen-free Website Design

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Mon, 04 Oct 2004 04:48:37 GMT, patriarch
calmly ranted:

I always find that it extremely useful to have multiple means of miscutting
joinery. ;-)

That would be funny if it weren't so true. big sigh

Yeah, and it seems like I'm always coming up with new ones. bigger sigh
--RC



--
Strong like ox, smart like tractor.
----------------------------------
www.diversify.com Oxen-free Website Design

Rick Cook wrote in
:



Larry Jaques wrote:

On Mon, 04 Oct 2004 04:48:37 GMT, patriarch
calmly ranted:

I always find that it extremely useful to have multiple means of
miscutting joinery. ;-)

That would be funny if it weren't so true. big sigh

Yeah, and it seems like I'm always coming up with new ones. bigger
sigh --RC

Isn't creativity one of the reasons we enjoy the hobby?

On Mon, 04 Oct 2004 12:45:38 +0100, Andy Dingley
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Oct 2004 23:29:29 GMT, "Mike S."
wrote:

this follows Norms advice of measure twice cut ones.

Even better is to not measure it, then you can't get it wrong !

I blast my mortices through with whatever size hole the chisel makes.
Then I set the bandsaw fence up to cut tenons to match the hole. They
plug straight in.

I like to cut all the tenons with my router table, then trace them on
the part to be morticed, but otherwise I've had the same experience.

I have a vague idea what size they are. But I don't waste time
measuring this stuff, and it just doesn't matter if my morticer fence
is a bit off (this is a hard adjustment to get accurate on my setup).

Measuring is for repeat work (and yes, I can drone one for hours about
the work of Bramah, Whitworth, Colt and Cadillac). If you really are
just making a one-off, then "standardisation" isn't a meaningful
concept. Chase the thing that matters - fitting the two parts
together _to_each_other_, not trying to match each of them to soem
external standard.

Agreed. I like to do each joint seperately, and then lightly number
them with a pencil so that I know they match.

On Mon, 04 Oct 2004 19:55:41 -0500, Prometheus
wrote:

Agreed. I like to do each joint seperately, and then lightly number
them with a pencil so that I know they match.

I can generally interchange between those cut on the same project, on
the same day. But my fence adjustments aren't repeatable enough to
swap between projects.

I suppose that is one of the advantages of a biesmeyer fence , I made a sled
that rides on the top of the fence with a piece of wood attached to the
side. then clamp the piece that you want to cut tenon on to it . set the
fence and slide the sled through ,flip the workpiece and do the other
side.....

then set the blade height, and using the mitre gauge cut the scrap off using
a block against the set fence to ensure the correct cutoff length .Do not
use the fence directly, else the cutoff will jam between the blade and fence
......mjh

"Mike Hide" wrote in message

I suppose that is one of the advantages of a biesmeyer fence , I made a
sled
that rides on the top of the fence with a piece of wood attached to the
side. then clamp the piece that you want to cut tenon on to it . set the
fence and slide the sled through ,flip the workpiece and do the other
side.....

then set the blade height, and using the mitre gauge cut the scrap off
using
a block against the set fence to ensure the correct cutoff length .Do not
use the fence directly, else the cutoff will jam between the blade and
fence

The Uni-T-Fence slide-on replacement for my old Unifence, which makes it
more 'beismeyer like' but with "t" slots for additional options, has been
great for those fence riding jigs.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/04/04