[Casper]

I re-acquired a butcher block cart my father and I built years ago. A
bit of abuse but bones in good shape. One issue is omni-directional
metal wheels. They came loose but damage to the nuts and holes
moderately loose. Was easy to unscrew from wood but thread nuts came
out with wheels and I'm unable to separate them from wheel shaft.
Thread nuts are brass. I'm short on tools and hate to waste perfectly
good metal wheels because nuts are stuck. Any ideas on how to separate
shaft from thread nut without damage to either? Thanks

[Puckdropper]

Casper wrote in
:

I re-acquired a butcher block cart my father and I built years ago. A
bit of abuse but bones in good shape. One issue is omni-directional
metal wheels. They came loose but damage to the nuts and holes
moderately loose. Was easy to unscrew from wood but thread nuts came
out with wheels and I'm unable to separate them from wheel shaft.
Thread nuts are brass. I'm short on tools and hate to waste perfectly
good metal wheels because nuts are stuck. Any ideas on how to separate
shaft from thread nut without damage to either? Thanks

I've seen suggestions of using candle wax as a penetrating agent. I guess
you get the parts hot, melt a bit of wax on the threads and it runs down
the threads and capillary action will draw some wax between the threads and
break the bonds.

I haven't tried it, so can't say how well it works.

Puckdropper

[Joe gwinn]

On Sat, 08 May 2021 18:24:06 -0400, Casper
wrote:

I re-acquired a butcher block cart my father and I built years ago. A
bit of abuse but bones in good shape. One issue is omni-directional
metal wheels. They came loose but damage to the nuts and holes
moderately loose. Was easy to unscrew from wood but thread nuts came
out with wheels and I'm unable to separate them from wheel shaft.
Thread nuts are brass. I'm short on tools and hate to waste perfectly
good metal wheels because nuts are stuck. Any ideas on how to separate
shaft from thread nut without damage to either? Thanks

Need a photo or two.

[dpb[_3_]]

On 5/8/2021 5:24 PM, Casper wrote:
I re-acquired a butcher block cart my father and I built years ago. A
bit of abuse but bones in good shape. One issue is omni-directional
metal wheels. They came loose but damage to the nuts and holes
moderately loose. Was easy to unscrew from wood but thread nuts came
out with wheels and I'm unable to separate them from wheel shaft.
Thread nuts are brass. I'm short on tools and hate to waste perfectly
good metal wheels because nuts are stuck. Any ideas on how to separate
shaft from thread nut without damage to either? Thanks


"Thread nuts are brass. ..."

Bad idea (as you've discovered).

"Steel and aluminum are relatively compatible, but if brass and steel
contact, the steel will corrode because it is more anodic than the
brass. .."

If you have enough extra length on the shaft, put two nuts together and
lock them together tightly. Then you can use it to hold the shaft and
break loose the brass nut.

If the shaft isn't long enough to have that much clearance, heat on the
nut directly but not on the shaft. Some penetrating nut/rust solvent
may help; carburetor cleaner is about as penetrating a common solvent as
there is.

When you put it back together, use galvanized for nuts...a little
anti-seize wouldn't hurt as a butcher block/table in kitchen environment
will likely see some water now and again.

--

[Joe gwinn]

On Sun, 9 May 2021 12:52:50 -0500, dpb wrote:

On 5/8/2021 5:24 PM, Casper wrote:
I re-acquired a butcher block cart my father and I built years ago. A
bit of abuse but bones in good shape. One issue is omni-directional
metal wheels. They came loose but damage to the nuts and holes
moderately loose. Was easy to unscrew from wood but thread nuts came
out with wheels and I'm unable to separate them from wheel shaft.
Thread nuts are brass. I'm short on tools and hate to waste perfectly
good metal wheels because nuts are stuck. Any ideas on how to separate
shaft from thread nut without damage to either? Thanks


"Thread nuts are brass. ..."

Bad idea (as you've discovered).

"Steel and aluminum are relatively compatible, but if brass and steel
contact, the steel will corrode because it is more anodic than the
brass. .."

Brass on steel should not bind, unless the steel is very badly rusted
(and needed to be replaced).

The classic trick is to heat the nut up to about 400 F and try to
unscrew it while hot. This temperature won't hurt brass or steel, but
will char wood.

Joe Gwinn

[Casper]

Joe Gwinn was heard to mutter:

On Sat, 08 May 2021 18:24:06 -0400, Casper
wrote:

I re-acquired a butcher block cart my father and I built years ago. A
bit of abuse but bones in good shape. One issue is omni-directional
metal wheels. They came loose but damage to the nuts and holes
moderately loose. Was easy to unscrew from wood but thread nuts came
out with wheels and I'm unable to separate them from wheel shaft.
Thread nuts are brass. I'm short on tools and hate to waste perfectly
good metal wheels because nuts are stuck. Any ideas on how to separate
shaft from thread nut without damage to either? Thanks

Need a photo or two.

Here's a picture of the wheel with the brass thread nut on. Steel
shaft. Approximately 1/8th of an inch open at top of nut; shaft is
1/8th inch short of top of brass. I can wiggle one a few mm left-right
by hand; others won't budge. I see no rust. Was kept in non-water
room. Wheels are rust-free. This was built back in the mid-80's.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qwlxmntdey...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
"Train your mind to test every thought, ideology, train of reasoning, and claim to truth."

[Casper]

Puckdropper was heard to mutter:

Casper wrote in
:

I re-acquired a butcher block cart my father and I built years ago. A
bit of abuse but bones in good shape. One issue is omni-directional
metal wheels. They came loose but damage to the nuts and holes
moderately loose. Was easy to unscrew from wood but thread nuts came
out with wheels and I'm unable to separate them from wheel shaft.
Thread nuts are brass. I'm short on tools and hate to waste perfectly
good metal wheels because nuts are stuck. Any ideas on how to separate
shaft from thread nut without damage to either? Thanks

I've seen suggestions of using candle wax as a penetrating agent. I guess
you get the parts hot, melt a bit of wax on the threads and it runs down
the threads and capillary action will draw some wax between the threads and
break the bonds.

I haven't tried it, so can't say how well it works.

Puckdropper

I'm currently trying to saturate one with WD40 to see if it loosens.
I've never used candle wax but might be worth a try. I thought about
freezing the parts. Used to do that with ride parts at Six Flags.
"Train your mind to test every thought, ideology, train of reasoning, and claim to truth."

[Casper]

dpb was heard to mutter:

On 5/8/2021 5:24 PM, Casper wrote:
I re-acquired a butcher block cart my father and I built years ago. A
bit of abuse but bones in good shape. One issue is omni-directional
metal wheels. They came loose but damage to the nuts and holes
moderately loose. Was easy to unscrew from wood but thread nuts came
out with wheels and I'm unable to separate them from wheel shaft.
Thread nuts are brass. I'm short on tools and hate to waste perfectly
good metal wheels because nuts are stuck. Any ideas on how to separate
shaft from thread nut without damage to either? Thanks


"Thread nuts are brass. ..."

Bad idea (as you've discovered).

"Steel and aluminum are relatively compatible, but if brass and steel
contact, the steel will corrode because it is more anodic than the
brass. .."

If you have enough extra length on the shaft, put two nuts together and
lock them together tightly. Then you can use it to hold the shaft and
break loose the brass nut.

If the shaft isn't long enough to have that much clearance, heat on the
nut directly but not on the shaft. Some penetrating nut/rust solvent
may help; carburetor cleaner is about as penetrating a common solvent as
there is.

When you put it back together, use galvanized for nuts...a little
anti-seize wouldn't hurt as a butcher block/table in kitchen environment
will likely see some water now and again.

Only about 1/8th of an inch is open thread inside the brass from where
the steel shaft ends. Not sure there is enough thread to bite on. I
don't have a matching bolt so need to hit hardware store.

I'm currently trying WD40 on one wheel. Might try freezing another.
Used to do that with ride parts.

Cart wasn't used in kitchen nor will it be in future. It was stored in
a spare bedroom for years. I don't see any rust. If I can find steel
or glavanized thread nuts to match, I'll switch.

Cart was built back in mid-80's. Don't remember if there was an option
back then but it was Dad's call, not mine. Considering it's age, it's
help up pretty well. I was surprised the wheels were still on it.
"Train your mind to test every thought, ideology, train of reasoning, and claim to truth."

[J. Clarke[_5_]]

On Tue, 11 May 2021 18:34:33 -0400, Casper
wrote:

Puckdropper was heard to mutter:

Casper wrote in
m:

I re-acquired a butcher block cart my father and I built years ago. A
bit of abuse but bones in good shape. One issue is omni-directional
metal wheels. They came loose but damage to the nuts and holes
moderately loose. Was easy to unscrew from wood but thread nuts came
out with wheels and I'm unable to separate them from wheel shaft.
Thread nuts are brass. I'm short on tools and hate to waste perfectly
good metal wheels because nuts are stuck. Any ideas on how to separate
shaft from thread nut without damage to either? Thanks

I've seen suggestions of using candle wax as a penetrating agent. I guess
you get the parts hot, melt a bit of wax on the threads and it runs down
the threads and capillary action will draw some wax between the threads and
break the bonds.

I haven't tried it, so can't say how well it works.

Puckdropper

I'm currently trying to saturate one with WD40 to see if it loosens.
I've never used candle wax but might be worth a try. I thought about
freezing the parts. Used to do that with ride parts at Six Flags.
"Train your mind to test every thought, ideology, train of reasoning, and claim to truth."

Get some real penetrating oil. Order some Kroil off Amazon or mix
50-50 automatic transmission fluid with acetone.

WD-40 really is not that good for freeing up corroded hardware.

[[email protected]]

On Sat, 08 May 2021 18:24:06 -0400, Casper
wrote:

I re-acquired a butcher block cart my father and I built years ago. A
bit of abuse but bones in good shape. One issue is omni-directional
metal wheels. They came loose but damage to the nuts and holes
moderately loose. Was easy to unscrew from wood but thread nuts came
out with wheels and I'm unable to separate them from wheel shaft.
Thread nuts are brass. I'm short on tools and hate to waste perfectly
good metal wheels because nuts are stuck. Any ideas on how to separate
shaft from thread nut without damage to either? Thanks


Maybe switch to casters with mounting plates ?

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop.../65385-casters

John T.

[G Ross[_2_]]

Casper wrote:
Joe Gwinn was heard to mutter:

On Sat, 08 May 2021 18:24:06 -0400, Casper
wrote:

I re-acquired a butcher block cart my father and I built years ago. A
bit of abuse but bones in good shape. One issue is omni-directional
metal wheels. They came loose but damage to the nuts and holes
moderately loose. Was easy to unscrew from wood but thread nuts came
out with wheels and I'm unable to separate them from wheel shaft.
Thread nuts are brass. I'm short on tools and hate to waste perfectly
good metal wheels because nuts are stuck. Any ideas on how to separate
shaft from thread nut without damage to either? Thanks

Need a photo or two.

Here's a picture of the wheel with the brass thread nut on. Steel
shaft. Approximately 1/8th of an inch open at top of nut; shaft is
1/8th inch short of top of brass. I can wiggle one a few mm left-right
by hand; others won't budge. I see no rust. Was kept in non-water
room. Wheels are rust-free. This was built back in the mid-80's.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qwlxmntdey...%20PM.jpg?dl=0
"Train your mind to test every thought, ideology, train of reasoning, and claim to truth."

I think they are made that way. The nut is to screw the caster to the
table leg or what ever. Maybe you need a threaded socket in the table
instead of just a hole in the wood. Or, is the threads on a socket?
You can buy new ones from Amazon that look just like yours.

--
G Ross

[dpb[_3_]]

On 5/11/2021 5:33 PM, Casper wrote:
....

Here's a picture of the wheel with the brass thread nut on. ...
....
https://www.dropbox.com/s/qwlxmntdey...%20PM.jpg?dl=0

That's not a conventional nut; the shaft is pressed into it and it's
purpose is to be used to screw the shaft into the mounting nut in the
leg of the object it's to be mounted to.

Get a tee-nut of proper size and drive it into the proper-sized hole

https://www.boltdepot.com/T-Nuts_Zinc_plated_steel.aspx

--

[Phil Kangas[_4_]]

"J. Clarke" wrote in message
On Tue, 11 May 2021 18:34:33 -0400,
Casper
wrote:

Puckdropper was heard to mutter:

Casper wrote in

I re-acquired a butcher block cart my father and I
built years ago. A
bit of abuse but bones in good shape. One issue is
omni-directional
metal wheels. They came loose but damage to the nuts
and holes
moderately loose. Was easy to unscrew from wood but
thread nuts came
out with wheels and I'm unable to separate them from
wheel shaft.
Thread nuts are brass. I'm short on tools and hate to
waste perfectly
good metal wheels because nuts are stuck. Any ideas on
how to separate
shaft from thread nut without damage to either? Thanks

I've seen suggestions of using candle wax as a
penetrating agent. I guess
you get the parts hot, melt a bit of wax on the threads
and it runs down
the threads and capillary action will draw some wax
between the threads and
break the bonds.

I haven't tried it, so can't say how well it works.

Puckdropper

I'm currently trying to saturate one with WD40 to see if
it loosens.
I've never used candle wax but might be worth a try. I
thought about
freezing the parts. Used to do that with ride parts at Six
Flags.
"Train your mind to test every thought, ideology, train of
reasoning, and claim to truth."

Get some real penetrating oil. Order some Kroil off
Amazon or mix
50-50 automatic transmission fluid with acetone.

Yup, 50-50, known as PFM, Pure F.....g Magic, :)


WD-40 really is not that good for freeing up corroded
hardware.

[Casper]

This morning I was able to remove 3 of the 4 brass thread nuts. The
last was stubborn. After further freezing, I got the 4th off. Only
things I used were WD40, Ballistol, and freezing.

The wheels are not pop-in, they have threaded steel shafts.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/iku0193rzc...%20PM.jpg?dl=0

[Leon[_7_]]

On 5/12/2021 9:20 PM, Casper wrote:
This morning I was able to remove 3 of the 4 brass thread nuts. The
last was stubborn. After further freezing, I got the 4th off. Only
things I used were WD40, Ballistol, and freezing.

The wheels are not pop-in, they have threaded steel shafts.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/iku0193rzc...%20PM.jpg?dl=0


Might try letting a temp change loosen the nuts.

I "HAD" a Kreg miter gauge years ago. It used a brass bin to index into
aluminum.

A couple of hours with direct sunlight and the pin seized. And of
course I forced the pin out with all means possible and the miter gauge
was no longer and good to me.

I replaced it with an Incra miter gauge. Steel on steel. ;~)

[[email protected]]

On Thu, 13 May 2021 13:27:03 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/12/2021 9:20 PM, Casper wrote:
This morning I was able to remove 3 of the 4 brass thread nuts. The
last was stubborn. After further freezing, I got the 4th off. Only
things I used were WD40, Ballistol, and freezing.

The wheels are not pop-in, they have threaded steel shafts.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/iku0193rzc...%20PM.jpg?dl=0


Might try letting a temp change loosen the nuts.

I "HAD" a Kreg miter gauge years ago. It used a brass bin to index into
aluminum.

A couple of hours with direct sunlight and the pin seized. And of
course I forced the pin out with all means possible and the miter gauge
was no longer and good to me.

I replaced it with an Incra miter gauge. Steel on steel. ;~)

I have an Incra and a JessEm. The JessEm had that problem but
replacement parts were really easy to get from them and very
inexpensive. I've had the miter gauge for at least ten years so their
service gets an A+. The thing is a bit weird to use though.

I sawed the end of the Incra off by setting it up for a 90, then
cutting a 45 without resetting it. Oops. It was a sharp blade so
didn't even notice the aluminum. Parts are available and reasonable
from them, as well, but I haven't bothered.

[Leon[_7_]]

On 5/14/2021 10:12 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 13 May 2021 13:27:03 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/12/2021 9:20 PM, Casper wrote:
This morning I was able to remove 3 of the 4 brass thread nuts. The
last was stubborn. After further freezing, I got the 4th off. Only
things I used were WD40, Ballistol, and freezing.

The wheels are not pop-in, they have threaded steel shafts.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/iku0193rzc...%20PM.jpg?dl=0


Might try letting a temp change loosen the nuts.

I "HAD" a Kreg miter gauge years ago. It used a brass bin to index into
aluminum.

A couple of hours with direct sunlight and the pin seized. And of
course I forced the pin out with all means possible and the miter gauge
was no longer and good to me.

I replaced it with an Incra miter gauge. Steel on steel. ;~)

I have an Incra and a JessEm. The JessEm had that problem but
replacement parts were really easy to get from them and very
inexpensive. I've had the miter gauge for at least ten years so their
service gets an A+. The thing is a bit weird to use though.

I sawed the end of the Incra off by setting it up for a 90, then
cutting a 45 without resetting it. Oops. It was a sharp blade so
didn't even notice the aluminum. Parts are available and reasonable
from them, as well, but I haven't bothered.


I have an MDF sacrificial fence on my Incra. The actual fence will not
come in contact with the blade regardless of angle setting.
I can't afford to risk cutting the aluminum fence.

[[email protected]]

On Sat, 15 May 2021 14:38:36 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/14/2021 10:12 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 13 May 2021 13:27:03 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/12/2021 9:20 PM, Casper wrote:
This morning I was able to remove 3 of the 4 brass thread nuts. The
last was stubborn. After further freezing, I got the 4th off. Only
things I used were WD40, Ballistol, and freezing.

The wheels are not pop-in, they have threaded steel shafts.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/iku0193rzc...%20PM.jpg?dl=0


Might try letting a temp change loosen the nuts.

I "HAD" a Kreg miter gauge years ago. It used a brass bin to index into
aluminum.

A couple of hours with direct sunlight and the pin seized. And of
course I forced the pin out with all means possible and the miter gauge
was no longer and good to me.

I replaced it with an Incra miter gauge. Steel on steel. ;~)

I have an Incra and a JessEm. The JessEm had that problem but
replacement parts were really easy to get from them and very
inexpensive. I've had the miter gauge for at least ten years so their
service gets an A+. The thing is a bit weird to use though.

I sawed the end of the Incra off by setting it up for a 90, then
cutting a 45 without resetting it. Oops. It was a sharp blade so
didn't even notice the aluminum. Parts are available and reasonable
from them, as well, but I haven't bothered.


I have an MDF sacrificial fence on my Incra. The actual fence will not
come in contact with the blade regardless of angle setting.
I can't afford to risk cutting the aluminum fence.

You ditched the Incra stop?

Afford? Fence is $36. The soft aluminum won't hurt a carbide blade.

[Leon[_7_]]

On 5/15/2021 4:17 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 15 May 2021 14:38:36 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/14/2021 10:12 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 13 May 2021 13:27:03 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/12/2021 9:20 PM, Casper wrote:
This morning I was able to remove 3 of the 4 brass thread nuts. The
last was stubborn. After further freezing, I got the 4th off. Only
things I used were WD40, Ballistol, and freezing.

The wheels are not pop-in, they have threaded steel shafts.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/iku0193rzc...%20PM.jpg?dl=0


Might try letting a temp change loosen the nuts.

I "HAD" a Kreg miter gauge years ago. It used a brass bin to index into
aluminum.

A couple of hours with direct sunlight and the pin seized. And of
course I forced the pin out with all means possible and the miter gauge
was no longer and good to me.

I replaced it with an Incra miter gauge. Steel on steel. ;~)

I have an Incra and a JessEm. The JessEm had that problem but
replacement parts were really easy to get from them and very
inexpensive. I've had the miter gauge for at least ten years so their
service gets an A+. The thing is a bit weird to use though.

I sawed the end of the Incra off by setting it up for a 90, then
cutting a 45 without resetting it. Oops. It was a sharp blade so
didn't even notice the aluminum. Parts are available and reasonable
from them, as well, but I haven't bothered.


I have an MDF sacrificial fence on my Incra. The actual fence will not
come in contact with the blade regardless of angle setting.
I can't afford to risk cutting the aluminum fence.

You ditched the Incra stop?
No, I use it.

If you move the stop, red portion, to the front grove on its carrier it
will sit out 3/4" from the face, room for the 3/4" thick sacrificial fence.




Afford? Fence is $36. The soft aluminum won't hurt a carbide blade.


Plus about $200 for a new SawStop brake and WWII blade.

[[email protected]]

On Sun, 16 May 2021 11:29:01 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/15/2021 4:17 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 15 May 2021 14:38:36 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/14/2021 10:12 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 13 May 2021 13:27:03 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/12/2021 9:20 PM, Casper wrote:
This morning I was able to remove 3 of the 4 brass thread nuts. The
last was stubborn. After further freezing, I got the 4th off. Only
things I used were WD40, Ballistol, and freezing.

The wheels are not pop-in, they have threaded steel shafts.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/iku0193rzc...%20PM.jpg?dl=0


Might try letting a temp change loosen the nuts.

I "HAD" a Kreg miter gauge years ago. It used a brass bin to index into
aluminum.

A couple of hours with direct sunlight and the pin seized. And of
course I forced the pin out with all means possible and the miter gauge
was no longer and good to me.

I replaced it with an Incra miter gauge. Steel on steel. ;~)

I have an Incra and a JessEm. The JessEm had that problem but
replacement parts were really easy to get from them and very
inexpensive. I've had the miter gauge for at least ten years so their
service gets an A+. The thing is a bit weird to use though.

I sawed the end of the Incra off by setting it up for a 90, then
cutting a 45 without resetting it. Oops. It was a sharp blade so
didn't even notice the aluminum. Parts are available and reasonable
from them, as well, but I haven't bothered.


I have an MDF sacrificial fence on my Incra. The actual fence will not
come in contact with the blade regardless of angle setting.
I can't afford to risk cutting the aluminum fence.

You ditched the Incra stop?
No, I use it.

If you move the stop, red portion, to the front grove on its carrier it
will sit out 3/4" from the face, room for the 3/4" thick sacrificial fence.

I didn't know that. I went down to take a look. Sure enough... But
I don't see how it helps, unless the sacrificial fence hangs out
1-1/2".

Afford? Fence is $36. The soft aluminum won't hurt a carbide blade.


Plus about $200 for a new SawStop brake and WWII blade.

Forgot about the silly brake. ;-) A WWII will cut it like butter and
not even know it's there. DAMHIK

I looked at the JessEm gauge, too. It'll take a sacrificial fence by
taking the stop off the shuttle base and flipping the base around. I
hadn't remembered that the JessEm fence had a 3/8" x 1/2" dado chunk
off the bottom. ;-/

If it's carbide vs. soft aluminum, the carbide will win every time.

[Leon[_7_]]

On 5/16/2021 8:16 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 16 May 2021 11:29:01 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/15/2021 4:17 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 15 May 2021 14:38:36 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/14/2021 10:12 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 13 May 2021 13:27:03 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/12/2021 9:20 PM, Casper wrote:
This morning I was able to remove 3 of the 4 brass thread nuts. The
last was stubborn. After further freezing, I got the 4th off. Only
things I used were WD40, Ballistol, and freezing.

The wheels are not pop-in, they have threaded steel shafts.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/iku0193rzc...%20PM.jpg?dl=0


Might try letting a temp change loosen the nuts.

I "HAD" a Kreg miter gauge years ago. It used a brass bin to index into
aluminum.

A couple of hours with direct sunlight and the pin seized. And of
course I forced the pin out with all means possible and the miter gauge
was no longer and good to me.

I replaced it with an Incra miter gauge. Steel on steel. ;~)

I have an Incra and a JessEm. The JessEm had that problem but
replacement parts were really easy to get from them and very
inexpensive. I've had the miter gauge for at least ten years so their
service gets an A+. The thing is a bit weird to use though.

I sawed the end of the Incra off by setting it up for a 90, then
cutting a 45 without resetting it. Oops. It was a sharp blade so
didn't even notice the aluminum. Parts are available and reasonable
from them, as well, but I haven't bothered.


I have an MDF sacrificial fence on my Incra. The actual fence will not
come in contact with the blade regardless of angle setting.
I can't afford to risk cutting the aluminum fence.

You ditched the Incra stop?
No, I use it.

If you move the stop, red portion, to the front grove on its carrier it
will sit out 3/4" from the face, room for the 3/4" thick sacrificial fence.

I didn't know that. I went down to take a look. Sure enough... But
I don't see how it helps, unless the sacrificial fence hangs out
1-1/2".

Yes, there is no reason that the sacrificial fence has to be the same
length as the fence. Its purpose is to be sacrificial so mine also
becomes a zero clearance on the back side of the cut. And my
sacrificial fence hangs out at least 1.5", sometimes more if I want a
fresh Zero clearance cut.

You compensate for the fence placement by placing the stop at a
different location on the carriage so that the rule is still dead on
accurate.

Using the sacrificial fence also is handy when cutting dados with the
miter gauge, again MDF creates a zero clearance on the back side of the
dado.

Just adjust your fence so that it clears the blade at all angles. Then
reset your stop to the forward grove on the carriage and move the stop
on the carriage to compensate for the amount you moved the fence.






Afford? Fence is $36. The soft aluminum won't hurt a carbide blade.


Plus about $200 for a new SawStop brake and WWII blade.

Forgot about the silly brake. ;-) A WWII will cut it like butter and
not even know it's there. DAMHIK


Any blade will.

[[email protected]]

On Mon, 17 May 2021 10:59:26 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/16/2021 8:16 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 16 May 2021 11:29:01 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/15/2021 4:17 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 15 May 2021 14:38:36 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/14/2021 10:12 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 13 May 2021 13:27:03 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/12/2021 9:20 PM, Casper wrote:
This morning I was able to remove 3 of the 4 brass thread nuts. The
last was stubborn. After further freezing, I got the 4th off. Only
things I used were WD40, Ballistol, and freezing.

The wheels are not pop-in, they have threaded steel shafts.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/iku0193rzc...%20PM.jpg?dl=0


Might try letting a temp change loosen the nuts.

I "HAD" a Kreg miter gauge years ago. It used a brass bin to index into
aluminum.

A couple of hours with direct sunlight and the pin seized. And of
course I forced the pin out with all means possible and the miter gauge
was no longer and good to me.

I replaced it with an Incra miter gauge. Steel on steel. ;~)

I have an Incra and a JessEm. The JessEm had that problem but
replacement parts were really easy to get from them and very
inexpensive. I've had the miter gauge for at least ten years so their
service gets an A+. The thing is a bit weird to use though.

I sawed the end of the Incra off by setting it up for a 90, then
cutting a 45 without resetting it. Oops. It was a sharp blade so
didn't even notice the aluminum. Parts are available and reasonable
from them, as well, but I haven't bothered.


I have an MDF sacrificial fence on my Incra. The actual fence will not
come in contact with the blade regardless of angle setting.
I can't afford to risk cutting the aluminum fence.

You ditched the Incra stop?
No, I use it.

If you move the stop, red portion, to the front grove on its carrier it
will sit out 3/4" from the face, room for the 3/4" thick sacrificial fence.

I didn't know that. I went down to take a look. Sure enough... But
I don't see how it helps, unless the sacrificial fence hangs out
1-1/2".

Yes, there is no reason that the sacrificial fence has to be the same
length as the fence. Its purpose is to be sacrificial so mine also
becomes a zero clearance on the back side of the cut. And my
sacrificial fence hangs out at least 1.5", sometimes more if I want a
fresh Zero clearance cut.

You compensate for the fence placement by placing the stop at a
different location on the carriage so that the rule is still dead on
accurate.

So you have to move the rule that 1-1/2" and lop it off?

Using the sacrificial fence also is handy when cutting dados with the
miter gauge, again MDF creates a zero clearance on the back side of the
dado.

Do you just cut a new fence or have several, like a zero-clearance
insert?

Just adjust your fence so that it clears the blade at all angles. Then
reset your stop to the forward grove on the carriage and move the stop
on the carriage to compensate for the amount you moved the fence.






Afford? Fence is $36. The soft aluminum won't hurt a carbide blade.


Plus about $200 for a new SawStop brake and WWII blade.

Forgot about the silly brake. ;-) A WWII will cut it like butter and
not even know it's there. DAMHIK


Any blade will.

[Leon[_7_]]

On 5/17/2021 6:05 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 17 May 2021 10:59:26 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/16/2021 8:16 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 16 May 2021 11:29:01 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/15/2021 4:17 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 15 May 2021 14:38:36 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/14/2021 10:12 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 13 May 2021 13:27:03 -0500, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 5/12/2021 9:20 PM, Casper wrote:
This morning I was able to remove 3 of the 4 brass thread nuts. The
last was stubborn. After further freezing, I got the 4th off. Only
things I used were WD40, Ballistol, and freezing.

The wheels are not pop-in, they have threaded steel shafts.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/iku0193rzc...%20PM.jpg?dl=0


Might try letting a temp change loosen the nuts.

I "HAD" a Kreg miter gauge years ago. It used a brass bin to index into
aluminum.

A couple of hours with direct sunlight and the pin seized. And of
course I forced the pin out with all means possible and the miter gauge
was no longer and good to me.

I replaced it with an Incra miter gauge. Steel on steel. ;~)

I have an Incra and a JessEm. The JessEm had that problem but
replacement parts were really easy to get from them and very
inexpensive. I've had the miter gauge for at least ten years so their
service gets an A+. The thing is a bit weird to use though.

I sawed the end of the Incra off by setting it up for a 90, then
cutting a 45 without resetting it. Oops. It was a sharp blade so
didn't even notice the aluminum. Parts are available and reasonable
from them, as well, but I haven't bothered.


I have an MDF sacrificial fence on my Incra. The actual fence will not
come in contact with the blade regardless of angle setting.
I can't afford to risk cutting the aluminum fence.

You ditched the Incra stop?
No, I use it.

If you move the stop, red portion, to the front grove on its carrier it
will sit out 3/4" from the face, room for the 3/4" thick sacrificial fence.

I didn't know that. I went down to take a look. Sure enough... But
I don't see how it helps, unless the sacrificial fence hangs out
1-1/2".

Yes, there is no reason that the sacrificial fence has to be the same
length as the fence. Its purpose is to be sacrificial so mine also
becomes a zero clearance on the back side of the cut. And my
sacrificial fence hangs out at least 1.5", sometimes more if I want a
fresh Zero clearance cut.

You compensate for the fence placement by placing the stop at a
different location on the carriage so that the rule is still dead on
accurate.

So you have to move the rule that 1-1/2" and lop it off?

No, Extend the flip stop dowel.
Look Here

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/

In that picture I did not have the sacrificial fence extended to for the
zero clearance on the back side of the cut.






Using the sacrificial fence also is handy when cutting dados with the
miter gauge, again MDF creates a zero clearance on the back side of the
dado.

Do you just cut a new fence or have several, like a zero-clearance
insert?

I keep another sacrificial fence for that purpose so that I don't have
to keep whacking off the end.

Also good for tenons on the end of a board. I use the rip fence as the
stop and the sacrificial fence up against the rip fence.



Just adjust your fence so that it clears the blade at all angles. Then
reset your stop to the forward grove on the carriage and move the stop
on the carriage to compensate for the amount you moved the fence.






Afford? Fence is $36. The soft aluminum won't hurt a carbide blade.


Plus about $200 for a new SawStop brake and WWII blade.

Forgot about the silly brake. ;-) A WWII will cut it like butter and
not even know it's there. DAMHIK


Any blade will.