I struggled with the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig model 4212, because it would not give me consistent results in tightness of joint and alignment of pieces. With a few modifications to eliminate variation, I was able to get consistent results. I keep a dedicated router with the bit installed so that I can set up quickly and make a perfect fitting drawer on first try without any adjustments to the jig or router. Saves a lot of time.
Modifications are explained in this YouTube Video
https://youtu.be/hTRCSAM-YTk
I am interested in any other ideas to improve the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodwo...e-3081657-.htm

On 12/17/2020 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
I struggled with the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig model 4212, because it
would not give me consistent results in tightness of joint and alignment
of pieces. With a few modifications to eliminate variation, I was able
to get consistent results. I keep a dedicated router with the bit
installed so that I can set up quickly and make a perfect fitting drawer
on first try without any adjustments to the jig or router. Saves a lot
of time.
Modifications are explained in this YouTube Video
https://youtu.be/hTRCSAM-YTk
I am interested in any other ideas to improve the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig


As with 90% of all jigs that use templates there are numerous steps that
have to be taken to insure a proper fit.
I have had 2 different DT jigs and they were about equal in delivering
results. A Craftsman and a Leigh D4 jig.

You have made tweaks and extra parts to over come the jigs deficiencies.
And you have dedicated a router, guide bushing and DT bit to eliminate
set up tweaking, of your router, every time.

Unfortunately that bit will have to be replaced at some point and test
fitting with different depths will have to be done over again.

Your set up looks to be working out pretty good for small jobs. But
with larger and multiple projects you will probably do more adjustments.

I have pretty much given up on template jigs altogether at this point.

Several days ago I built boxes with box joints with a relatively new
approach. While box joints are somewhat simpler than DT's, the accuracy
of my new tool should make repeatable accuracy a breeze. Set up and a
test cut took me approximately 2 minutes and I was on my way to cutting
728 slots and pins for these 14 boxes, for the very first time ever with
this new tool.

My new tool, the Shaper Origin and Workstation are absolutely not for
every one but if you do sell your work it pays for itself in time
savings in short order. The Shaper Workstation incorporates a
shockingly simple indexing set up that is absolutely spot on and never
ever needs adjustment. I cannot help but wonder why no one has thought
of this before now.

The Origin is basically a hand held CNC machine with repeatable accuracy
down to .001". With the replacement of any bit, even mid cut into a
series of pins and tails or pins and slots, setting the correct depth is
a 5 second step. The Origin remembers the proper depth of cut and
calibrates during that 5 second step.

If you ever tire of the typical template guided DT jig, take a look at
Shaper Origin and its Workstation. Pricey but it does much much more
than cut finger or DT joints.

On Fri, 18 Dec 2020 10:59:03 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/17/2020 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
I struggled with the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig model 4212, because it
would not give me consistent results in tightness of joint and alignment
of pieces. With a few modifications to eliminate variation, I was able
to get consistent results. I keep a dedicated router with the bit
installed so that I can set up quickly and make a perfect fitting drawer
on first try without any adjustments to the jig or router. Saves a lot
of time.
Modifications are explained in this YouTube Video
https://youtu.be/hTRCSAM-YTk
I am interested in any other ideas to improve the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig


As with 90% of all jigs that use templates there are numerous steps that
have to be taken to insure a proper fit.
I have had 2 different DT jigs and they were about equal in delivering
results. A Craftsman and a Leigh D4 jig.

You have made tweaks and extra parts to over come the jigs deficiencies.
And you have dedicated a router, guide bushing and DT bit to eliminate
set up tweaking, of your router, every time.

Unfortunately that bit will have to be replaced at some point and test
fitting with different depths will have to be done over again.

Your set up looks to be working out pretty good for small jobs. But
with larger and multiple projects you will probably do more adjustments.

I have pretty much given up on template jigs altogether at this point.

Several days ago I built boxes with box joints with a relatively new
approach. While box joints are somewhat simpler than DT's, the accuracy
of my new tool should make repeatable accuracy a breeze. Set up and a
test cut took me approximately 2 minutes and I was on my way to cutting
728 slots and pins for these 14 boxes, for the very first time ever with
this new tool.

My new tool, the Shaper Origin and Workstation are absolutely not for
every one but if you do sell your work it pays for itself in time
savings in short order. The Shaper Workstation incorporates a
shockingly simple indexing set up that is absolutely spot on and never
ever needs adjustment. I cannot help but wonder why no one has thought
of this before now.

The Origin is basically a hand held CNC machine with repeatable accuracy
down to .001". With the replacement of any bit, even mid cut into a
series of pins and tails or pins and slots, setting the correct depth is
a 5 second step. The Origin remembers the proper depth of cut and
calibrates during that 5 second step.

If you ever tire of the typical template guided DT jig, take a look at
Shaper Origin and its Workstation. Pricey but it does much much more
than cut finger or DT joints.

Even so, the thickness of the stock matters. Do you plane everything
down to the same dimensions?

On 12/18/2020 9:13 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 18 Dec 2020 10:59:03 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/17/2020 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
I struggled with the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig model 4212, because it
would not give me consistent results in tightness of joint and alignment
of pieces. With a few modifications to eliminate variation, I was able
to get consistent results. I keep a dedicated router with the bit
installed so that I can set up quickly and make a perfect fitting drawer
on first try without any adjustments to the jig or router. Saves a lot
of time.
Modifications are explained in this YouTube Video
https://youtu.be/hTRCSAM-YTk
I am interested in any other ideas to improve the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig


As with 90% of all jigs that use templates there are numerous steps that
have to be taken to insure a proper fit.
I have had 2 different DT jigs and they were about equal in delivering
results. A Craftsman and a Leigh D4 jig.

You have made tweaks and extra parts to over come the jigs deficiencies.
And you have dedicated a router, guide bushing and DT bit to eliminate
set up tweaking, of your router, every time.

Unfortunately that bit will have to be replaced at some point and test
fitting with different depths will have to be done over again.

Your set up looks to be working out pretty good for small jobs. But
with larger and multiple projects you will probably do more adjustments.

I have pretty much given up on template jigs altogether at this point.

Several days ago I built boxes with box joints with a relatively new
approach. While box joints are somewhat simpler than DT's, the accuracy
of my new tool should make repeatable accuracy a breeze. Set up and a
test cut took me approximately 2 minutes and I was on my way to cutting
728 slots and pins for these 14 boxes, for the very first time ever with
this new tool.

My new tool, the Shaper Origin and Workstation are absolutely not for
every one but if you do sell your work it pays for itself in time
savings in short order. The Shaper Workstation incorporates a
shockingly simple indexing set up that is absolutely spot on and never
ever needs adjustment. I cannot help but wonder why no one has thought
of this before now.

The Origin is basically a hand held CNC machine with repeatable accuracy
down to .001". With the replacement of any bit, even mid cut into a
series of pins and tails or pins and slots, setting the correct depth is
a 5 second step. The Origin remembers the proper depth of cut and
calibrates during that 5 second step.

If you ever tire of the typical template guided DT jig, take a look at
Shaper Origin and its Workstation. Pricey but it does much much more
than cut finger or DT joints.

Even so, the thickness of the stock matters. Do you plane everything
down to the same dimensions?


Well it helps speed the process if the stock is the same thickness. Not
necessary but makes life easier with less adjustments.


For 12 of my 14 boxes I glued up 3/4 to 1.5" wide scraps of 3/4" thick
material. Some boxes have 4~6 pieces for each side. That was a task
all by it self.

After glue up I ran the pieces through my drum sander until both sides
were smooth... I may have removed 1/16" total.

Then through the band saw with a resaw blade and cut the panels to about
9/16" thick. The waste piece became the surface for the tops and
bottoms of the boxes. So those pieces were right at 1/8" thick. I ran
the thicker pieces down to 1/2" thick, on the drum sander and ran the
thin pieces down to about 1/10th inch.

The 1/2" pieces became the sides for the boxes and the thin pieces were
glued to 7/32" thick plywood amd back cut to fit the 1/4x 1/4" grooves.

Then with the Origin set up I cut 1/4" fingers and slots on the ends of
each 1/2" thick side. BUT the fingers were 1/4" x 1/4", not 1/4" x 1/2".

For half of the sides I cut a 1/4" wide and 1/4" deep rabbit on each end
and on the other half cut a 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide rabbet.

I cut the rabbets and groves on the TS and all the finger joints and
inlays with the Origin.

There was a purpose for using two different width rabbets. This
prevented the grooves, that receive the top and bottom panels, from
coming through and being exposed through the box joints.

I'll post pictures later. I am currently cutting the tops from the
bottom halves and then need to varnish the sides.

On 12/19/2020 12:25 PM, Leon wrote:
On 12/18/2020 9:13 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 18 Dec 2020 10:59:03 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/17/2020 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
I struggled with the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig model 4212, because it
would not give me consistent results in tightness of joint and
alignment
of pieces. With a few modifications to eliminate variation, I was able
to get consistent results. I keep a dedicated router with the bit
installed so that I can set up quickly and make a perfect fitting
drawer
on first try without any adjustments to the jig or router. Saves a lot
of time.
Modifications are explained in this YouTube Video
https://youtu.be/hTRCSAM-YTk
I am interested in any other ideas to improve the Porter Cable
Dovetail Jig


As with 90% of all jigs that use templates there are numerous steps that
have to be taken to insure a proper fit.
I have had 2 different DT jigs and they were about equal in delivering
results.Â* A Craftsman and a Leigh D4 jig.

You have made tweaks and extra parts to over come the jigs deficiencies.
Â* And you have dedicated a router, guide bushing and DT bit to eliminate
set up tweaking, of your router, every time.

Unfortunately that bit will have to be replaced at some point and test
fitting with different depths will have to be done over again.

Your set up looks to be working out pretty good for small jobs.Â* But
with larger and multiple projects you will probably do more adjustments.

I have pretty much given up on template jigs altogether at this point.

Several days ago I built boxes with box joints with a relatively new
approach.Â* While box joints are somewhat simpler than DT's, the accuracy
of my new tool should make repeatable accuracy a breeze.Â* Set up and a
test cutÂ* took me approximately 2 minutes and I was on my way to cutting
728 slots and pins for these 14 boxes, for the very first time ever with
this new tool.

My new tool, the Shaper Origin and Workstation are absolutely not for
every one but if you do sell your work it pays for itself in time
savings in short order.Â* The Shaper Workstation incorporates a
shockingly simple indexing set up that is absolutely spot on and never
ever needs adjustment.Â* I cannot help but wonder why no one has thought
of this before now.

The Origin is basically a hand held CNC machine with repeatable accuracy
down to .001".Â* With the replacement of any bit, even mid cut into a
series of pins and tails or pins and slots, setting the correct depth is
a 5 second step.Â* The Origin remembers the proper depth of cut and
calibrates during that 5 second step.

If you ever tire of the typical template guided DT jig, take a look at
Shaper Origin and its Workstation.Â* Pricey but it does much much more
than cut finger or DT joints.

Even so, the thickness of the stock matters.Â* Do you plane everything
down to the same dimensions?


Well it helps speed the process if the stock is the same thickness.Â* Not
necessary but makes life easier with less adjustments.


For 12 of my 14 boxes I glued up 3/4 to 1.5" wide scraps of 3/4" thick
material.Â* Some boxes have 4~6 pieces for each side.Â* That was a task
all by it self.

After glue up I ran the pieces through my drum sander until both sides
were smooth...Â* I may have removed 1/16" total.

Then through the band saw with a resaw blade and cut the panels to about
9/16" thick.Â* The waste piece became the surface for the tops and
bottoms of the boxes. So those pieces were right at 1/8" thick.Â* I ran
the thicker pieces down to 1/2" thick, on the drum sander and ran the
thin pieces down to about 1/10th inch.

The 1/2" pieces became the sides for the boxes and the thin pieces were
glued to 7/32" thick plywood amd back cut to fit the 1/4x 1/4" grooves.

Then with the Origin set up I cut 1/4"Â* fingers and slots on the ends of
each 1/2" thick side.Â* BUT the fingers were 1/4" x 1/4", not 1/4" x 1/2".

For half of the sides I cut a 1/4" wide and 1/4" deep rabbit on each end
and on the other half cut a 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide rabbet.

I cut the rabbets and groves on the TS and all the finger joints and
inlays with the Origin.

There was a purpose for using two different width rabbets.Â* This
prevented the grooves, that receive the top and bottom panels, from
coming through and being exposed through the box joints.

I'll post pictures later.Â* I am currently cutting the tops from the
bottom halves and then need to varnish the sides.


Well here is a screen shot. Its horrible but it shows the steps to
process each piece. If interested I can send you the Sketchup file.
Just tell me which version Sketchup and where.

Anyway you have to be anal about the rabbets and the grooves. Do not
use a tape measure. I used a digital caliper and steel rule for TS setup.

The fingers and slots were a piece of cake with the Origin. It does all
the layout and measuring for you once you tell it what size the material
is and what size fingers/slots you want.

On Sat, 19 Dec 2020 12:25:41 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/18/2020 9:13 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 18 Dec 2020 10:59:03 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/17/2020 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
I struggled with the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig model 4212, because it
would not give me consistent results in tightness of joint and alignment
of pieces. With a few modifications to eliminate variation, I was able
to get consistent results. I keep a dedicated router with the bit
installed so that I can set up quickly and make a perfect fitting drawer
on first try without any adjustments to the jig or router. Saves a lot
of time.
Modifications are explained in this YouTube Video
https://youtu.be/hTRCSAM-YTk
I am interested in any other ideas to improve the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig


As with 90% of all jigs that use templates there are numerous steps that
have to be taken to insure a proper fit.
I have had 2 different DT jigs and they were about equal in delivering
results. A Craftsman and a Leigh D4 jig.

You have made tweaks and extra parts to over come the jigs deficiencies.
And you have dedicated a router, guide bushing and DT bit to eliminate
set up tweaking, of your router, every time.

Unfortunately that bit will have to be replaced at some point and test
fitting with different depths will have to be done over again.

Your set up looks to be working out pretty good for small jobs. But
with larger and multiple projects you will probably do more adjustments.

I have pretty much given up on template jigs altogether at this point.

Several days ago I built boxes with box joints with a relatively new
approach. While box joints are somewhat simpler than DT's, the accuracy
of my new tool should make repeatable accuracy a breeze. Set up and a
test cut took me approximately 2 minutes and I was on my way to cutting
728 slots and pins for these 14 boxes, for the very first time ever with
this new tool.

My new tool, the Shaper Origin and Workstation are absolutely not for
every one but if you do sell your work it pays for itself in time
savings in short order. The Shaper Workstation incorporates a
shockingly simple indexing set up that is absolutely spot on and never
ever needs adjustment. I cannot help but wonder why no one has thought
of this before now.

The Origin is basically a hand held CNC machine with repeatable accuracy
down to .001". With the replacement of any bit, even mid cut into a
series of pins and tails or pins and slots, setting the correct depth is
a 5 second step. The Origin remembers the proper depth of cut and
calibrates during that 5 second step.

If you ever tire of the typical template guided DT jig, take a look at
Shaper Origin and its Workstation. Pricey but it does much much more
than cut finger or DT joints.

Even so, the thickness of the stock matters. Do you plane everything
down to the same dimensions?


Well it helps speed the process if the stock is the same thickness. Not
necessary but makes life easier with less adjustments.

I was referring to keeping the router depth a constant. If this
worked, I'd think a reference dovetail would be just as good.

For 12 of my 14 boxes I glued up 3/4 to 1.5" wide scraps of 3/4" thick
material. Some boxes have 4~6 pieces for each side. That was a task
all by it self.

After glue up I ran the pieces through my drum sander until both sides
were smooth... I may have removed 1/16" total.

Then through the band saw with a resaw blade and cut the panels to about
9/16" thick. The waste piece became the surface for the tops and
bottoms of the boxes. So those pieces were right at 1/8" thick. I ran
the thicker pieces down to 1/2" thick, on the drum sander and ran the
thin pieces down to about 1/10th inch.

The 1/2" pieces became the sides for the boxes and the thin pieces were
glued to 7/32" thick plywood amd back cut to fit the 1/4x 1/4" grooves.

Then with the Origin set up I cut 1/4" fingers and slots on the ends of
each 1/2" thick side. BUT the fingers were 1/4" x 1/4", not 1/4" x 1/2".

For half of the sides I cut a 1/4" wide and 1/4" deep rabbit on each end
and on the other half cut a 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide rabbet.

I cut the rabbets and groves on the TS and all the finger joints and
inlays with the Origin.

There was a purpose for using two different width rabbets. This
prevented the grooves, that receive the top and bottom panels, from
coming through and being exposed through the box joints.

I'll post pictures later. I am currently cutting the tops from the
bottom halves and then need to varnish the sides.

Please do. It sounds interesting. Maybe a Youtube video too? ;-)

On Sat, 19 Dec 2020 12:43:57 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/19/2020 12:25 PM, Leon wrote:
On 12/18/2020 9:13 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 18 Dec 2020 10:59:03 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/17/2020 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
I struggled with the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig model 4212, because it
would not give me consistent results in tightness of joint and
alignment
of pieces. With a few modifications to eliminate variation, I was able
to get consistent results. I keep a dedicated router with the bit
installed so that I can set up quickly and make a perfect fitting
drawer
on first try without any adjustments to the jig or router. Saves a lot
of time.
Modifications are explained in this YouTube Video
https://youtu.be/hTRCSAM-YTk
I am interested in any other ideas to improve the Porter Cable
Dovetail Jig


As with 90% of all jigs that use templates there are numerous steps that
have to be taken to insure a proper fit.
I have had 2 different DT jigs and they were about equal in delivering
results.* A Craftsman and a Leigh D4 jig.

You have made tweaks and extra parts to over come the jigs deficiencies.
* And you have dedicated a router, guide bushing and DT bit to eliminate
set up tweaking, of your router, every time.

Unfortunately that bit will have to be replaced at some point and test
fitting with different depths will have to be done over again.

Your set up looks to be working out pretty good for small jobs.* But
with larger and multiple projects you will probably do more adjustments.

I have pretty much given up on template jigs altogether at this point.

Several days ago I built boxes with box joints with a relatively new
approach.* While box joints are somewhat simpler than DT's, the accuracy
of my new tool should make repeatable accuracy a breeze.* Set up and a
test cut* took me approximately 2 minutes and I was on my way to cutting
728 slots and pins for these 14 boxes, for the very first time ever with
this new tool.

My new tool, the Shaper Origin and Workstation are absolutely not for
every one but if you do sell your work it pays for itself in time
savings in short order.* The Shaper Workstation incorporates a
shockingly simple indexing set up that is absolutely spot on and never
ever needs adjustment.* I cannot help but wonder why no one has thought
of this before now.

The Origin is basically a hand held CNC machine with repeatable accuracy
down to .001".* With the replacement of any bit, even mid cut into a
series of pins and tails or pins and slots, setting the correct depth is
a 5 second step.* The Origin remembers the proper depth of cut and
calibrates during that 5 second step.

If you ever tire of the typical template guided DT jig, take a look at
Shaper Origin and its Workstation.* Pricey but it does much much more
than cut finger or DT joints.

Even so, the thickness of the stock matters.* Do you plane everything
down to the same dimensions?


Well it helps speed the process if the stock is the same thickness.* Not
necessary but makes life easier with less adjustments.


For 12 of my 14 boxes I glued up 3/4 to 1.5" wide scraps of 3/4" thick
material.* Some boxes have 4~6 pieces for each side.* That was a task
all by it self.

After glue up I ran the pieces through my drum sander until both sides
were smooth...* I may have removed 1/16" total.

Then through the band saw with a resaw blade and cut the panels to about
9/16" thick.* The waste piece became the surface for the tops and
bottoms of the boxes. So those pieces were right at 1/8" thick.* I ran
the thicker pieces down to 1/2" thick, on the drum sander and ran the
thin pieces down to about 1/10th inch.

The 1/2" pieces became the sides for the boxes and the thin pieces were
glued to 7/32" thick plywood amd back cut to fit the 1/4x 1/4" grooves.

Then with the Origin set up I cut 1/4"* fingers and slots on the ends of
each 1/2" thick side.* BUT the fingers were 1/4" x 1/4", not 1/4" x 1/2".

For half of the sides I cut a 1/4" wide and 1/4" deep rabbit on each end
and on the other half cut a 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide rabbet.

I cut the rabbets and groves on the TS and all the finger joints and
inlays with the Origin.

There was a purpose for using two different width rabbets.* This
prevented the grooves, that receive the top and bottom panels, from
coming through and being exposed through the box joints.

I'll post pictures later.* I am currently cutting the tops from the
bottom halves and then need to varnish the sides.


Well here is a screen shot. Its horrible but it shows the steps to
process each piece. If interested I can send you the Sketchup file.
Just tell me which version Sketchup and where.

Anyway you have to be anal about the rabbets and the grooves. Do not
use a tape measure. I used a digital caliper and steel rule for TS setup.

The fingers and slots were a piece of cake with the Origin. It does all
the layout and measuring for you once you tell it what size the material
is and what size fingers/slots you want.

Screen shot?

On 12/19/2020 5:50 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 19 Dec 2020 12:43:57 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/19/2020 12:25 PM, Leon wrote:
On 12/18/2020 9:13 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 18 Dec 2020 10:59:03 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/17/2020 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
I struggled with the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig model 4212, because it
would not give me consistent results in tightness of joint and
alignment
of pieces. With a few modifications to eliminate variation, I was able
to get consistent results. I keep a dedicated router with the bit
installed so that I can set up quickly and make a perfect fitting
drawer
on first try without any adjustments to the jig or router. Saves a lot
of time.
Modifications are explained in this YouTube Video
https://youtu.be/hTRCSAM-YTk
I am interested in any other ideas to improve the Porter Cable
Dovetail Jig


As with 90% of all jigs that use templates there are numerous steps that
have to be taken to insure a proper fit.
I have had 2 different DT jigs and they were about equal in delivering
results.Â* A Craftsman and a Leigh D4 jig.

You have made tweaks and extra parts to over come the jigs deficiencies.
Â* And you have dedicated a router, guide bushing and DT bit to eliminate
set up tweaking, of your router, every time.

Unfortunately that bit will have to be replaced at some point and test
fitting with different depths will have to be done over again.

Your set up looks to be working out pretty good for small jobs.Â* But
with larger and multiple projects you will probably do more adjustments.

I have pretty much given up on template jigs altogether at this point.

Several days ago I built boxes with box joints with a relatively new
approach.Â* While box joints are somewhat simpler than DT's, the accuracy
of my new tool should make repeatable accuracy a breeze.Â* Set up and a
test cutÂ* took me approximately 2 minutes and I was on my way to cutting
728 slots and pins for these 14 boxes, for the very first time ever with
this new tool.

My new tool, the Shaper Origin and Workstation are absolutely not for
every one but if you do sell your work it pays for itself in time
savings in short order.Â* The Shaper Workstation incorporates a
shockingly simple indexing set up that is absolutely spot on and never
ever needs adjustment.Â* I cannot help but wonder why no one has thought
of this before now.

The Origin is basically a hand held CNC machine with repeatable accuracy
down to .001".Â* With the replacement of any bit, even mid cut into a
series of pins and tails or pins and slots, setting the correct depth is
a 5 second step.Â* The Origin remembers the proper depth of cut and
calibrates during that 5 second step.

If you ever tire of the typical template guided DT jig, take a look at
Shaper Origin and its Workstation.Â* Pricey but it does much much more
than cut finger or DT joints.

Even so, the thickness of the stock matters.Â* Do you plane everything
down to the same dimensions?


Well it helps speed the process if the stock is the same thickness.Â* Not
necessary but makes life easier with less adjustments.


For 12 of my 14 boxes I glued up 3/4 to 1.5" wide scraps of 3/4" thick
material.Â* Some boxes have 4~6 pieces for each side.Â* That was a task
all by it self.

After glue up I ran the pieces through my drum sander until both sides
were smooth...Â* I may have removed 1/16" total.

Then through the band saw with a resaw blade and cut the panels to about
9/16" thick.Â* The waste piece became the surface for the tops and
bottoms of the boxes. So those pieces were right at 1/8" thick.Â* I ran
the thicker pieces down to 1/2" thick, on the drum sander and ran the
thin pieces down to about 1/10th inch.

The 1/2" pieces became the sides for the boxes and the thin pieces were
glued to 7/32" thick plywood amd back cut to fit the 1/4x 1/4" grooves.

Then with the Origin set up I cut 1/4"Â* fingers and slots on the ends of
each 1/2" thick side.Â* BUT the fingers were 1/4" x 1/4", not 1/4" x 1/2".

For half of the sides I cut a 1/4" wide and 1/4" deep rabbit on each end
and on the other half cut a 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide rabbet.

I cut the rabbets and groves on the TS and all the finger joints and
inlays with the Origin.

There was a purpose for using two different width rabbets.Â* This
prevented the grooves, that receive the top and bottom panels, from
coming through and being exposed through the box joints.

I'll post pictures later.Â* I am currently cutting the tops from the
bottom halves and then need to varnish the sides.


Well here is a screen shot. Its horrible but it shows the steps to
process each piece. If interested I can send you the Sketchup file.
Just tell me which version Sketchup and where.

Anyway you have to be anal about the rabbets and the grooves. Do not
use a tape measure. I used a digital caliper and steel rule for TS setup.

The fingers and slots were a piece of cake with the Origin. It does all
the layout and measuring for you once you tell it what size the material
is and what size fingers/slots you want.

Screen shot?

Ooooops!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/

On 12/19/2020 5:48 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 19 Dec 2020 12:25:41 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/18/2020 9:13 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 18 Dec 2020 10:59:03 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/17/2020 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
I struggled with the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig model 4212, because it
would not give me consistent results in tightness of joint and alignment
of pieces. With a few modifications to eliminate variation, I was able
to get consistent results. I keep a dedicated router with the bit
installed so that I can set up quickly and make a perfect fitting drawer
on first try without any adjustments to the jig or router. Saves a lot
of time.
Modifications are explained in this YouTube Video
https://youtu.be/hTRCSAM-YTk
I am interested in any other ideas to improve the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig


As with 90% of all jigs that use templates there are numerous steps that
have to be taken to insure a proper fit.
I have had 2 different DT jigs and they were about equal in delivering
results. A Craftsman and a Leigh D4 jig.

You have made tweaks and extra parts to over come the jigs deficiencies.
And you have dedicated a router, guide bushing and DT bit to eliminate
set up tweaking, of your router, every time.

Unfortunately that bit will have to be replaced at some point and test
fitting with different depths will have to be done over again.

Your set up looks to be working out pretty good for small jobs. But
with larger and multiple projects you will probably do more adjustments.

I have pretty much given up on template jigs altogether at this point.

Several days ago I built boxes with box joints with a relatively new
approach. While box joints are somewhat simpler than DT's, the accuracy
of my new tool should make repeatable accuracy a breeze. Set up and a
test cut took me approximately 2 minutes and I was on my way to cutting
728 slots and pins for these 14 boxes, for the very first time ever with
this new tool.

My new tool, the Shaper Origin and Workstation are absolutely not for
every one but if you do sell your work it pays for itself in time
savings in short order. The Shaper Workstation incorporates a
shockingly simple indexing set up that is absolutely spot on and never
ever needs adjustment. I cannot help but wonder why no one has thought
of this before now.

The Origin is basically a hand held CNC machine with repeatable accuracy
down to .001". With the replacement of any bit, even mid cut into a
series of pins and tails or pins and slots, setting the correct depth is
a 5 second step. The Origin remembers the proper depth of cut and
calibrates during that 5 second step.

If you ever tire of the typical template guided DT jig, take a look at
Shaper Origin and its Workstation. Pricey but it does much much more
than cut finger or DT joints.

Even so, the thickness of the stock matters. Do you plane everything
down to the same dimensions?


Well it helps speed the process if the stock is the same thickness. Not
necessary but makes life easier with less adjustments.

I was referring to keeping the router depth a constant. If this
worked, I'd think a reference dovetail would be just as good.

Easily done with the Origin. Just dial in the depth that works best.


For 12 of my 14 boxes I glued up 3/4 to 1.5" wide scraps of 3/4" thick
material. Some boxes have 4~6 pieces for each side. That was a task
all by it self.

After glue up I ran the pieces through my drum sander until both sides
were smooth... I may have removed 1/16" total.

Then through the band saw with a resaw blade and cut the panels to about
9/16" thick. The waste piece became the surface for the tops and
bottoms of the boxes. So those pieces were right at 1/8" thick. I ran
the thicker pieces down to 1/2" thick, on the drum sander and ran the
thin pieces down to about 1/10th inch.

The 1/2" pieces became the sides for the boxes and the thin pieces were
glued to 7/32" thick plywood amd back cut to fit the 1/4x 1/4" grooves.

Then with the Origin set up I cut 1/4" fingers and slots on the ends of
each 1/2" thick side. BUT the fingers were 1/4" x 1/4", not 1/4" x 1/2".

For half of the sides I cut a 1/4" wide and 1/4" deep rabbit on each end
and on the other half cut a 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide rabbet.

I cut the rabbets and groves on the TS and all the finger joints and
inlays with the Origin.

There was a purpose for using two different width rabbets. This
prevented the grooves, that receive the top and bottom panels, from
coming through and being exposed through the box joints.

I'll post pictures later. I am currently cutting the tops from the
bottom halves and then need to varnish the sides.

Please do. It sounds interesting. Maybe a Youtube video too? ;-)

More waiting on the final coat of varnish to dry. And a few before
the varnish on the sides. Sorry no YouTube.

The top two are poplar and a stain. Those were going to be going to the
trash can after testing box joints with the Origin. Turns out they came
out just about perfect the first try. So I glued them and stained them.
Then made the bottom 12 strictly out of narrow pieces of scrap wood.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/

A little closer of an oak one. Have you done box joints before? Have
you ever done 1/4" square box joints before? Have you ever done 1/4"
square box joints out of 1/2" thick stock? ;~)

Look closely at the top of the joint..

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/

All of them with the final coat of varnish. Next and last step, felt on
the inside bottoms.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/

Something my customers have been asking for. Easily done with the
Origin. This is done on 11 of the 13 boxes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/

On Sun, 20 Dec 2020 17:42:28 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/19/2020 5:48 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 19 Dec 2020 12:25:41 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/18/2020 9:13 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 18 Dec 2020 10:59:03 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/17/2020 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
I struggled with the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig model 4212, because it
would not give me consistent results in tightness of joint and alignment
of pieces. With a few modifications to eliminate variation, I was able
to get consistent results. I keep a dedicated router with the bit
installed so that I can set up quickly and make a perfect fitting drawer
on first try without any adjustments to the jig or router. Saves a lot
of time.
Modifications are explained in this YouTube Video
https://youtu.be/hTRCSAM-YTk
I am interested in any other ideas to improve the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig


As with 90% of all jigs that use templates there are numerous steps that
have to be taken to insure a proper fit.
I have had 2 different DT jigs and they were about equal in delivering
results. A Craftsman and a Leigh D4 jig.

You have made tweaks and extra parts to over come the jigs deficiencies.
And you have dedicated a router, guide bushing and DT bit to eliminate
set up tweaking, of your router, every time.

Unfortunately that bit will have to be replaced at some point and test
fitting with different depths will have to be done over again.

Your set up looks to be working out pretty good for small jobs. But
with larger and multiple projects you will probably do more adjustments.

I have pretty much given up on template jigs altogether at this point.

Several days ago I built boxes with box joints with a relatively new
approach. While box joints are somewhat simpler than DT's, the accuracy
of my new tool should make repeatable accuracy a breeze. Set up and a
test cut took me approximately 2 minutes and I was on my way to cutting
728 slots and pins for these 14 boxes, for the very first time ever with
this new tool.

My new tool, the Shaper Origin and Workstation are absolutely not for
every one but if you do sell your work it pays for itself in time
savings in short order. The Shaper Workstation incorporates a
shockingly simple indexing set up that is absolutely spot on and never
ever needs adjustment. I cannot help but wonder why no one has thought
of this before now.

The Origin is basically a hand held CNC machine with repeatable accuracy
down to .001". With the replacement of any bit, even mid cut into a
series of pins and tails or pins and slots, setting the correct depth is
a 5 second step. The Origin remembers the proper depth of cut and
calibrates during that 5 second step.

If you ever tire of the typical template guided DT jig, take a look at
Shaper Origin and its Workstation. Pricey but it does much much more
than cut finger or DT joints.

Even so, the thickness of the stock matters. Do you plane everything
down to the same dimensions?


Well it helps speed the process if the stock is the same thickness. Not
necessary but makes life easier with less adjustments.

I was referring to keeping the router depth a constant. If this
worked, I'd think a reference dovetail would be just as good.

Easily done with the Origin. Just dial in the depth that works best.

If you use stock of a different thickness don't you have to go through
all the pain of resetting the depth to get the joint tight?

For 12 of my 14 boxes I glued up 3/4 to 1.5" wide scraps of 3/4" thick
material. Some boxes have 4~6 pieces for each side. That was a task
all by it self.

After glue up I ran the pieces through my drum sander until both sides
were smooth... I may have removed 1/16" total.

Then through the band saw with a resaw blade and cut the panels to about
9/16" thick. The waste piece became the surface for the tops and
bottoms of the boxes. So those pieces were right at 1/8" thick. I ran
the thicker pieces down to 1/2" thick, on the drum sander and ran the
thin pieces down to about 1/10th inch.

The 1/2" pieces became the sides for the boxes and the thin pieces were
glued to 7/32" thick plywood amd back cut to fit the 1/4x 1/4" grooves.

Then with the Origin set up I cut 1/4" fingers and slots on the ends of
each 1/2" thick side. BUT the fingers were 1/4" x 1/4", not 1/4" x 1/2".

For half of the sides I cut a 1/4" wide and 1/4" deep rabbit on each end
and on the other half cut a 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide rabbet.

I cut the rabbets and groves on the TS and all the finger joints and
inlays with the Origin.

There was a purpose for using two different width rabbets. This
prevented the grooves, that receive the top and bottom panels, from
coming through and being exposed through the box joints.

I'll post pictures later. I am currently cutting the tops from the
bottom halves and then need to varnish the sides.

Please do. It sounds interesting. Maybe a Youtube video too? ;-)

More waiting on the final coat of varnish to dry. And a few before
the varnish on the sides. Sorry no YouTube.

The top two are poplar and a stain. Those were going to be going to the
trash can after testing box joints with the Origin. Turns out they came
out just about perfect the first try. So I glued them and stained them.
Then made the bottom 12 strictly out of narrow pieces of scrap wood.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/

That's pretty impressive, particularly made out of scraps.

A little closer of an oak one. Have you done box joints before? Have
you ever done 1/4" square box joints before? Have you ever done 1/4"
square box joints out of 1/2" thick stock? ;~)

No, I haven't done much with box joints.

Look closely at the top of the joint..

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/

Half lap and box? I think you could drive a truck over that one.

All of them with the final coat of varnish. Next and last step, felt on
the inside bottoms.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/


That's a lot of inlays. That seems to scream *origin*. Do you resaw
the inlays from the wood of the alternate boxes?

Something my customers have been asking for. Easily done with the
Origin. This is done on 11 of the 13 boxes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/

Your company name?

On 12/20/2020 7:45 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 20 Dec 2020 17:42:28 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/19/2020 5:48 PM, wrote:
On Sat, 19 Dec 2020 12:25:41 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/18/2020 9:13 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 18 Dec 2020 10:59:03 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 12/17/2020 5:15 PM, StevenWoodward wrote:
I struggled with the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig model 4212, because it
would not give me consistent results in tightness of joint and alignment
of pieces. With a few modifications to eliminate variation, I was able
to get consistent results. I keep a dedicated router with the bit
installed so that I can set up quickly and make a perfect fitting drawer
on first try without any adjustments to the jig or router. Saves a lot
of time.
Modifications are explained in this YouTube Video
https://youtu.be/hTRCSAM-YTk
I am interested in any other ideas to improve the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig


As with 90% of all jigs that use templates there are numerous steps that
have to be taken to insure a proper fit.
I have had 2 different DT jigs and they were about equal in delivering
results. A Craftsman and a Leigh D4 jig.

You have made tweaks and extra parts to over come the jigs deficiencies.
And you have dedicated a router, guide bushing and DT bit to eliminate
set up tweaking, of your router, every time.

Unfortunately that bit will have to be replaced at some point and test
fitting with different depths will have to be done over again.

Your set up looks to be working out pretty good for small jobs. But
with larger and multiple projects you will probably do more adjustments.

I have pretty much given up on template jigs altogether at this point.

Several days ago I built boxes with box joints with a relatively new
approach. While box joints are somewhat simpler than DT's, the accuracy
of my new tool should make repeatable accuracy a breeze. Set up and a
test cut took me approximately 2 minutes and I was on my way to cutting
728 slots and pins for these 14 boxes, for the very first time ever with
this new tool.

My new tool, the Shaper Origin and Workstation are absolutely not for
every one but if you do sell your work it pays for itself in time
savings in short order. The Shaper Workstation incorporates a
shockingly simple indexing set up that is absolutely spot on and never
ever needs adjustment. I cannot help but wonder why no one has thought
of this before now.

The Origin is basically a hand held CNC machine with repeatable accuracy
down to .001". With the replacement of any bit, even mid cut into a
series of pins and tails or pins and slots, setting the correct depth is
a 5 second step. The Origin remembers the proper depth of cut and
calibrates during that 5 second step.

If you ever tire of the typical template guided DT jig, take a look at
Shaper Origin and its Workstation. Pricey but it does much much more
than cut finger or DT joints.

Even so, the thickness of the stock matters. Do you plane everything
down to the same dimensions?


Well it helps speed the process if the stock is the same thickness. Not
necessary but makes life easier with less adjustments.

I was referring to keeping the router depth a constant. If this
worked, I'd think a reference dovetail would be just as good.

Easily done with the Origin. Just dial in the depth that works best.

If you use stock of a different thickness don't you have to go through
all the pain of resetting the depth to get the joint tight?

No. For DT's I don't recall thickness being a factor. The/a particular
DT bit has an optimum cutting depth regardless of material thickness.
Once that depth has been established, you simply dial in the depth
setting again after doing a Z touch calibration. And that calibration
is a matter of touching a button on the screen. The depth setting is
also changed, to the .001", on the screen.


So if the particular sized/angled DT bit works best at a depth of .478",
just note that.
Remove that bit, reinstall that bit, do a "z" touch calibration, and
dial in .478". Done.

For box joints, same procedure but depth only needs to be the thickness
of the material plus a hair. Again, enter the depth of cut on the
screen, in thousands of an inch. The screen even allows you to allow
room for the glue between the pins. It's default thickness is .007"




For 12 of my 14 boxes I glued up 3/4 to 1.5" wide scraps of 3/4" thick
material. Some boxes have 4~6 pieces for each side. That was a task
all by it self.

After glue up I ran the pieces through my drum sander until both sides
were smooth... I may have removed 1/16" total.

Then through the band saw with a resaw blade and cut the panels to about
9/16" thick. The waste piece became the surface for the tops and
bottoms of the boxes. So those pieces were right at 1/8" thick. I ran
the thicker pieces down to 1/2" thick, on the drum sander and ran the
thin pieces down to about 1/10th inch.

The 1/2" pieces became the sides for the boxes and the thin pieces were
glued to 7/32" thick plywood amd back cut to fit the 1/4x 1/4" grooves.

Then with the Origin set up I cut 1/4" fingers and slots on the ends of
each 1/2" thick side. BUT the fingers were 1/4" x 1/4", not 1/4" x 1/2".

For half of the sides I cut a 1/4" wide and 1/4" deep rabbit on each end
and on the other half cut a 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide rabbet.

I cut the rabbets and groves on the TS and all the finger joints and
inlays with the Origin.

There was a purpose for using two different width rabbets. This
prevented the grooves, that receive the top and bottom panels, from
coming through and being exposed through the box joints.

I'll post pictures later. I am currently cutting the tops from the
bottom halves and then need to varnish the sides.

Please do. It sounds interesting. Maybe a Youtube video too? ;-)

More waiting on the final coat of varnish to dry. And a few before
the varnish on the sides. Sorry no YouTube.

The top two are poplar and a stain. Those were going to be going to the
trash can after testing box joints with the Origin. Turns out they came
out just about perfect the first try. So I glued them and stained them.
Then made the bottom 12 strictly out of narrow pieces of scrap wood.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/

That's pretty impressive, particularly made out of scraps.

Thank you. It added a couple of days work to the process. If being
hired, I would start with 4/4 1x8.



A little closer of an oak one. Have you done box joints before? Have
you ever done 1/4" square box joints before? Have you ever done 1/4"
square box joints out of 1/2" thick stock? ;~)

No, I haven't done much with box joints.

They are really pretty easy once dialed in on a jig or Incra's iBox.
And just stupid simple with the Origin. Way more easy than DT's with a jig.



Look closely at the top of the joint..

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/

Half lap and box? I think you could drive a truck over that one.

Kind'a LOL One side end of the joint begins with a 1/4x1/4" rabbet on
each end. The mating piece has a 1/4"x 1/2" rabbet on the end. Then
the 1/4x1/4" box pins and spaces are added to the ends.
And then it magically fits together.



All of them with the final coat of varnish. Next and last step, felt on
the inside bottoms.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/


That's a lot of inlays. That seems to scream *origin*. Do you resaw
the inlays from the wood of the alternate boxes?

So basically my design is to make a 5.75"x5.75" out of a 12" 1x8. This
takes care of all 4 sides and a thin veneer to glue to the top and
bottom pieces of plywood.

I resaw the 1x8, to 9/16" and that leaves me a thin veneer.




Something my customers have been asking for. Easily done with the
Origin. This is done on 11 of the 13 boxes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/

Your company name?

Yes, for almost 25 years. More of a formality to keep the government
happy. It has never been a living but pays for my equipment multiple
times over.

On 12/21/2020 10:06 AM, Leon wrote:
On 12/20/2020 7:45 PM, wrote:
On Sun, 20 Dec 2020 17:42:28 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:


Snip



All of them with the final coat of varnish.Â* Next and last step, felt on
the inside bottoms.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/


That's a lot of inlays.Â* That seems to scream *origin*.Â* Do you resaw
the inlays from the wood of the alternate boxes?

So basically my design is to make a 5.75"x5.75" out of a 12" 1x8.Â* This
takes care of all 4 sides and a thin veneer to glue to the top and
bottom pieces of plywood.

I resaw the 1x8, to 9/16" and that leaves me a thin veneer.

I did not really answer your question. ;~)

The "inlays were cut from a single piece of scrap that required no glue
up for the proper size. I carved, with the Origin, several on both
sides and then resawed them out on both sides.

First,

So the pattern is shown over the piece of wood. You import the shape
and tell it to cut along the out side of the shape line/perimeter, for
the inlay piece.

Second,

For the pocket to receive the inlay you again import the design or copy
the precious design to a different location, in this case a contrasting
piece of wood. Place the starting point with a touch of a button and
then tell Origin to cut to the inside of the line of the shape and once
outlined you tell Origin to make a pocket cut which removes the
remainder of the wood, free hand.

And FWIW all cutting with the Origin, regardless of what you are doing
is watched/and guided, by watching the screen. It shows you every where
that you need to cut, what direction to cut, and also shows you what has
been previously cut, real time/instantly. You never watch the bit.







Something my customers have been asking for.Â* Easily done with the
Origin.Â* This is done on 11 of the 13 boxes.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...in/dateposted/

Your company name?

Yes, for almost 25 years.Â* More of a formality to keep the government
happy.Â* It has never been a living but pays for my equipment multiple
times over.